For most of the year, the tropical coast of Jalisco is hot and sticky, with lush jungles growing right up to untouched sandy beaches, and miles of wild Mexican landscape in between. About five hours south of Puerto Vallarta by car, most visitors fly into the Manzanillo airport in Colima instead of PVR, for a much quicker 45-minute car ride to the pristine coastline. The 200-mile coastal stretch of Costalegre, dubbed “the happy coast,” is growing quickly, attracting travelers who prioritize eco-tourism and cultural immersion. 

It’s here that the Four Seasons Tamarindo’s Mesoamerican-inspired edifice is built directly into the cliffside overlooking the ocean, surrounded by more than 3,000 acres of nature reserve, protected wildlife, and six miles of beaches. In the three and a half years since the resort opened, the hotel’s pre-Hispanic design, created entirely by a powerhouse team of Mexican architects, has already won a handful of awards, including a spot on the World’s 50 Best Hotels. 

Tamarindo’s positioning on Costalegre offers impressive ocean views and privacy, but for guests who travel with an eye constantly attuned to the wine list, the most striking sight comes as the first glass of pale pink rosé wine from Bruma hits the table during dinner. A top producer from Mexico’s foremost wine region, the Valle de Guadalupe, the brand is helmed by acclaimed winemaker Lourdes Martínez Ojeda, who trained for a decade in Bordeaux. Even so, Mexican wine faces all the same stereotypes that all new world regions do, along with a host of others: Domestic taxes are impossibly high, tequila and mezcal have dominated drinking palates for years, and most wine drinkers gravitate toward what they already know. 

Four Seasons is among a host of other local boutique hotels and restaurants in the country that are leading the charge in supporting native Mexican winemakers. Over in Cabo, for example, Rosewood’s Las Ventanas al Paraiso has embraced native wines alongside old world counterparts. At Tamarindo, a partnership with award-winning Mexican chef Elena Reygadas for the restaurant Coyul has allowed the resort to take its support a step further. 

For Coyul’s prix fixe tasting menu, which is an option alongside à la carte dining, not a single old world wine is included in the wine pairing. Instead, the menu focuses solely on wines of Mexican origin, encompassing additional Guadalupe producers like Lomita and Montefiori, plus a shiraz by Anexlin, a label from the Encinillas Valley in the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is by design—a choice that reflects a preference for Indigenous ingredients and techniques that have long defined Reygadas’ cooking style, but also a determination to honor local producers at every turn. 

“Working with Mexican wines is part of a broader intention to highlight their richness,” Reygadas tells Observer. “Many Mexican wines today have a certain brightness and generosity shaped by the sun. That balance works naturally with our cooking.” The sentiment is growing. A recent story in Bon Appétit questioned why the push to champion local food hasn’t included local wine. Indigenous restaurants and hotels within Mexico have already begun to spotlight native wines, and Tamarindo’s decision speaks to a growing shift.

It’s just over a thousand miles as the crow flies between this beach destination and Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s most prominent winemaking region. Though the regions don’t share the same soil or geography, they do share the influence of the Pacific Ocean, meaning crisp, high-acid vintages from Guadalupe are better suited to the food and atmosphere in its sister state than wines from California, Oregon or France. Teresa Ramos Perez, Tamarindo’s director of restaurants, who guides guests through tastings at Coyul, noted that Mexico’s recent viticulture growth has instilled a confidence in producers to pursue their own methods, grapes and expressions. 

That experimentation has, for the most part, led directly to higher quality and greater individuality. “Mexican wine is having a very exciting moment,” Perez says. “There’s a new generation of winemakers pushing boundaries and embracing more precise, terroir-driven expressions. At the same time, there’s more confidence, less need to imitate old world styles, and more focus on authenticity. The momentum feels organic but strong. Both locally and internationally, there’s growing curiosity and respect.”

The presence of Mexican wine at the hotel isn’t restricted to pairings at the fine dining level. During a taco tasting at the casual oceanfront eatery, Nacho, a glass of sauvignon blanc from Monte Xanic, one of Guadalupe’s oldest boutique wineries, accompanies a lobster tempura taco drizzled with wasabi and chipotle aioli. Down at the beach, where laidback ceviches and quesadillas are on offer, a draught of 2021 Lágrimas San Vicente Verdejo, a Spanish grape grown in the Valle de San Vicente, was brilliant yellow and tasted of citrus and white fruit. A fitting beach wine, it was another varietal I might never have encountered if it weren’t curated for me.

Guests who prefer formal wine tasting experiences—or want to dig deeper into Mexico’s history—can book a private tasting called The Road to Tierra Adentro. Across four or more glasses of Indigenous wine, this tasting traces the journey of how Spanish vines were originally planted in Mexico during colonization, and unpacks the story behind how almost all of these vineyards were razed after Spain worried Mexico’s wine production would outstrip its own. The oldest winery in the country, Casa Madero, was the sole Mexican producer allowed to keep their vines, a carve out if they agreed to make wine for religious purposes only. 

Jose Luis Martinez, assistant director of food and beverage at the property, designed the hotel’s wine experiences to add different layers to the stay. The property focuses on Mexican creators across the board, in disciplines like architecture and design—the wine selection was no different. “From well before we opened, the team wanted to have Mexican wines be part of the culinary experience,” Martinez tells Observer. “For foreign guests discovering Mexican wine, most only know a few labels, and they’re usually from Baja California—our program is centered on Mexico as an entire region.” 

It’s simply too hot and sticky to grow grapes on the Costalegre, a humid, tropical strip at the southernmost tip of the state, but elsewhere in Jalisco, a wine region is slowly developing. Martinez and his team opted not to include these local wines in their program for now; production there is quite new, and he thinks the winemakers need more time to learn their terroir and what works best for the area. But across the board, Martinez has brought in wines from Guadalupe, Chihuahua—an area he taps as the next breakout wine-growing scene in Mexico—Coahuila, and Guanajuato, which is best known to American travelers for the city of San Miguel de Allende. 

“Most of our wine list is Mexican wines, and we did include international wine, but all of it is based on the flavor profile we want to present: crispness, acidity and salinity,” Martinez says. “We built our wine list on sparkling, whites and rosés mostly, and then of course, included reds. While most guests will already have a wine familiarity, we hope Mexican wine is something they can discover during their stay.” 

One of my personal favorites from the Valle de Guadalupe is Vena Cava, a pioneering winery in the region where British-born winemaker Phil Gregory and his wife, Eileen, have worked to establish small production, terroir-driven vintages for over 20 years. 

Vena Cava’s extra brut rosé was one of the pairings offered during the prix fixe in Coyul, and several other vintages are on the wine list at Sal, the hotel’s oceanfront dining venue with a seafood focus and a barefoot luxury feel. A bottle of Vena Cava’s orange wine or sauvignon blanc would be an excellent match for Sal’s specialty, a fish charcuterie plate of partially raw, salt-cured slices, similar in texture to sashimi. Normally, I’d pair this plate with a dry German riesling, or my forever go-to, a glass of Sancerre. But that evening, looking out on the ocean as golden hour descended, a Mexican wine fit the moment. 

As the country’s wine production continues to grow in stature and technique, there will likely be more and more opportunities for travelers to access the vintages, and they’re already more readily available in Los Angeles than in most other cities. If you happen to spot a glass of Bruma on a wine list in the future, maybe opt for a glass of that rosé instead of a go-to Provençal label? And the next time you’re in Mexico, consider pairing your favorite local cuisine with wine made from grapes that came from the same terroir. It might seem like a small thing in the moment, but wine regions across the world have been built on less.

Diehard Bravo fans, a smattering of cameras, and a few bewildered gamblers lined the pathway of gleaming white tile that cuts through the casino lobby as Lisa Vanderpump made her grand entrance. For the opening party of her namesake hotel in Las Vegas, the 65-year-old reality star wore a strapless sequined gown, a wink to showgirl culture, and tempered the sparkling look with opera-length lavender gloves that echoed the hotel’s new color palette. Though she’s opened nearly 40 other venues during her career as a restaurateur, even Vanderpump seemed slightly overwhelmed by the scale of the crowd watching.

But since the start of her television career, Vanderpump has been admired for her strategy, and her approach to Vegas is no different. When other Beverly Hills socialites were busy starting fights and taking TV drama personally, she used her Housewives fame to launch a different show, Vanderpump Rules, and eventually left the Housewives franchise to focus on that series. She tethered the young, volatile cast to several popular West Hollywood restaurants, effectively giving audiences an on-set hangout that spawned its own subculture. Some would argue that subculture was trashy, but few would dispute that it suits Vegas better than LA.

Not all of those WeHo venues lasted—particularly those built around toxic cast personalities—but her own status as both an iconic reality star and a savvy entrepreneur grew exponentially. That status is exactly what Caesars Entertainment has tapped into for the launch of The Vanderpump Hotel, a savvy rebrand of their never-quite-defined boutique hotel, The Cromwell. In the social media era, the need for more celebrity, more exposure, and more viral moments is always top of mind. Especially for Vegas hotels, where the sheer number of competitors means that if you’re not drawing in guests, someone else will. And on the heels of the so-called “Scandoval” season of Vanderpump Rules, which showcased a cheating affair and brought a new level of national attention to the stars, there’s no denying that interest in the show has renewed. 

To be clear, the original hotel was never bad—in fact, I loved it in theory—but the property never really developed a core identity or aesthetic. Just 188 keys, The Cromwell was renovated and relaunched back in 2014 with a vaguely British theme, the smaller footprint designed to appeal to guests who are overwhelmed by (or simply don’t like) larger, multi-tower resorts. The chance to stay right across the street from Caesars Palace, but return to a hotel with fewer than 200 rooms at the end of a long night, is a fantastic option, and this resort was a boon for a certain kind of traveler. A decade later, it’s been remade again, done up in delicate silver, gold, pink and lavender—and with the likely chance of spotting Lisa in the building.

With a killer location and a team that already knows Vegas inside and out, this property will surely fare better than, say, Schwartz & Sandy’s. This is a hotel designed for fans of Vanderpump Rules and the Bravo universe in general, so of course those who have zero interest—or actively avoid—the world of reality TV likely won’t be particularly happy here, even if the smaller footprint is appealing. It’s not a traditional luxury hotel, with rates well below $300 a night on average (for now, that is). At the same time, there’s a lack of privacy that goes along with the property’s—well, its owner’s—fame; similarly, one side of the lobby opens directly onto the Strip, and that proximity can make the rooms loud. 

The thing that will surprise haters of Vanderpump Rules the most about the hotel is that it’s actually good. Great, even. The thing that will surprise diehard fans of Lisa Vanderpump most, however, is that it’s not because of her. It’s her partnership with a Vegas behemoth that will likely make the hotel successful. Yes, she spent a significant amount of time and energy putting her signature stamp on the property, and there are some high points in the work she did with designer Nick Alain, but ultimately, it’s the scaffolding of Caesars that she’s betting on.

One of the two major corporations that define the Vegas Strip, Caesars has traditionally been associated with the typical bachelor-party-esque side of the city, emphasizing gambling and sports. The Vanderpump Hotel is an unapologetically feminine and decidedly queer-friendly space within Caesars’ portfolio, aimed at guests who have already responded well to Lisa Vanderpump’s aesthetic across three Vanderpump-branded venues opened at different hotels—the Vanderpump Cocktail Garden at Caesars, Vanderpump à Paris, and Pinky’s at the Flamingo. Introducing her gradually across its other hotels was another step in ensuring this one’s success. 

Given Vanderpump’s spread of restaurants around the Strip, it made more sense to keep the hotel’s pre-existing restaurant, Giada’s by Giada De Laurentiis, firmly in place, along with iconic hip-hop nightclub Drai’s After Hours—at least for now. Casual, comforting Italian food that can easily be elevated with enormous seafood towers or caviar cannolis at brunch is a natural fit for guests at the rebranded hotel, and, given how much the cast of Vanderpump Rules likes to party, keeping the legendary nightclub intact was another wise decision. Those who do want all things Vanderpump can walk less than a block over to Pinky’s or grab a drink at the hotel’s new lobby bar.

What Vanderpump did add to the hotel footprint is a dark, cocktail-focused venue named after her beloved late dog, Gigolo (known better as “Giggy” to viewers), and that’s where her experience in nightlife really shines. I’d tap this bar as a go-to spot for pre-gaming late-night parties at Drai’s, escaping the sun after an afternoon at the rooftop day club, or getting a break from the crowds at Caesars across the way. There are just a few true cocktail bars on the Strip where guests can get a thoughtfully designed drink in a small, quiet space, and this one is a fantastic balance of showmanship, drink quality and atmosphere. 

As for the rooms, they’re fairly standard aside from the signature color palette, with a large glass-and-tile shower adorned with platitudes as the most unique piece: “Bless the ones who curse you,” “c’est la vie,” etc. The minibar and snacks are dominated by Vanderpump products, with the occasional nod to Britain (don’t miss the English shortbread cookies), and room service from Giada’s is available within specific hours. I also appreciated how soft the towels were, and that the one-size-fits-all robe was actually telling the truth. The aesthetic upgrade from The Cromwell is significant, and the lobby features Instagram-coded vignettes like a Vanderpump-themed car and a red British phone booth.

According to Vanderpump, she currently has no plans to make this hotel the backdrop of a new show, but time will tell if that’s just opening-week posturing or an honest response. During the party, though, reality TV was still at the forefront. The cast of Vanderpump Rules was, of course, attending, and their film crew flitted around the hotel all weekend. After her casino floor entrance, the grand dame of Vanderpump Rules was quickly surrounded by past and present castmates and gave a surprisingly emotional speech, thanking her family for their support.

Former Housewife Garcelle Beauvais was there, and so was her son, Oliver Saunders, who has become a sort of fixture in the Bravo universe by working at Vanderpump à Paris in Las Vegas, but not really appearing on Vanderpump Rules. His path might actually be the best way forward for staff at the hotel, as a job here allows them potential access to the Vanderpump Rules world without the commitment of constant filming. After all, the twin forces of reality television and social media influencers have changed a lot in the last two decades. Once laughed off as trashy or campy, these new media modalities are arguably the most prominent path to fame and fortune in 2026—and there’s no better proof than the existence of this hotel.

It’s unusual to see men in sharp slacks and shiny dress shoes and women in colorful dresses and sun hats hoofing it along the side of Highway 29 in St. Helena. Most visitors to Napa Valley hire cars or book tour buses to visit the tasting rooms and wineries that line this main drag, especially given how hot it can be on an early weekend in wine country June. But as the traffic snarl just outside of Robert Mondavi’s newly transformed winery comes into focus, it becomes clear why some attendees of this weekend’s event have opted to walk—getting to the Napa Valley Barrel Auction on time is just that important. 

Throughout the world, Napa Valley has come to signify the best of American wine—particularly outstanding cabernet sauvignon—and also, at times, a sometimes outlandish luxury. But here, in the place itself, the community turns out every year just to hang out with each other. The people who live here are first and foremost farmers, raising fruit and railing against the same predicaments of pests, weather and market conditions, and many of them have been doing it for generations. Every year at the Napa Valley Barrel Auction, a community-focused event that is part of Auction Napa Valley, winemakers bring still-maturing wine from their latest vintage, hand-pouring sample glasses with their curved “thief” tools that dip directly into the hole at the top of each barrel. 

Guests can taste over 100 samples from all over the valley, and place bids on just 10 cases per winery, with all proceeds from the sales going straight to local charities. Some of the barrels are special blends or totally unique offerings that are only available at the auction, while others are a sign of what’s to come that year for a promising vintage; all of them give attendees insight into the plethora of excellent wine being made, year after year, in the heart of California’s most prominent region. Those who fear the region is flagging would have those concerns assuaged at this packed event, and tickets sold out well before it took place this past weekend. 

“Even if I don’t have a barrel, I still come every year because it’s just a great community event,” says winemaker Andy Erickson of Favia Wines, who co-founded the label in 2003 with his wife, viticulturist Annie Favia. “Everyone is here—and if you want to support the cause, you can buy a case of wine for what, $2,000? It’s a great way to support the community and meet a lot more people.” Favia’s barrel of 100 percent cabernet franc stood out from a sea of cabernet sauvignon, and the 2025 vintage that was available for tasting won’t be released until fall of 2028. Taken from the winery’s favorite blocks of cab franc on their 86-acre estate in Oakville, their lot’s highest bid sold for $3,350. High bids tend to run a little higher than the per-bottle price, which is somewhere around $225 for Favia on average, and since everything goes straight to charity, generosity is not uncommon. 

Along with the barrel tastings and the drama of constantly shifting bids, an outsized number of local food vendors cheerfully represented the bounty of restaurants thriving in the valley, and plenty of other producers poured standard wine offerings for a more traditional sampling experience. With plenty of room to spread out at Mondavi’s sprawling flagship estate, which recently underwent a multimillion-dollar transformation, a live jazz band and iconic burgers and fries from Gott’s Roadside were interspersed among the indoor and outdoor areas for guests to mix and mingle.

Of course, most of the action centers on the barrel tastings as the tension of the auction builds throughout the afternoon. Starting at noon and running until 4 p.m., winemakers and their teams get more animated as the day rolls on, though everything is done in a spirit of friendly competition. “We’ve done the auction for over 20 years,” Stephanie Barnett Rehrmann, a second-generation employee at her family’s label, Barnett Vineyards, tells Observer. “I see people that I’ve grown up with since kindergarten here.” 

Though she spent over a decade in corporate America, Barnett Rehrmann recently returned to work in business development for her family’s winery in the Spring Mountain District. Their barrel at the auction was another rarity: a 2024 merlot that will be released next fall. “We are very much known for our cabernet, like a lot of the wineries here, but the merlot coming from Spring Mountain is just a really unique place to grow it, and it stands out among all the cabernet,” she explained. 

Newcomers are always entering the Napa scene, and the auction is a good place to get on the radar. Winemaker Tim Bacino from Gen 7 Wines, a first-time attendee, thinks the event is the best way to get his wines in front of people who might not find them just by visiting their tasting room. “For me to get my wines out to the general public, if they don’t visit my tasting room, this is the best way to do it,” Bacino says. “You get all different types of clientele here. I decided to do the auction because we’re so under-the-radar, and then it’s fun to drink wines that are under the radar and introduce them to consumers who don’t know about us yet, and let them discover us.” 

Bacino showcased a 2024 vintage of Gen 7’s Vaché Estate Double Barrel cabernet sauvignon, 95 percent cabernet sauvignon with a blend of 2 percent merlot, 1 percent petit verdot and 2 percent négrette, a rare French grape variety that his ancestors were the first to bring over to California. “When I started Gen 7, I met the family who own the property where my ancestor first planted this grape, and that’s how I got educated about négrette,” Bacino says. “Every other year or so, I can get close to a ton of fruit from the family, and I’ve been buying it whenever I can. It’s an amazing varietal, it reminds me of malbec or syrah—it’s super dark and inky but very smooth.” 

Since all proceeds from the event go to nonprofits throughout Napa, earning the highest bid isn’t necessarily the focus, but it’s still a nice feather in the cap of the winemaker who gets the prize. 

This year, the honor went to Chris Carpenter at Cardinale, who brought a 2024 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. “This lot has been a tradition,” Carpenter tells Observer. “It pays homage to two of my favorite vineyards: Veeder Peak Vineyard on Mount Veeder and W.S. Keyes Vineyard on Howell Mountain. These are two of my favorite and most coveted vineyard sites.”

The blend, a mix of the best lots from a cabernet sauvignon vineyard on Mount Veeder and merlot grown on Howell Mountain, won’t be released until September of next year. The winning bidder paid $10,000 for a case, several thousand dollars higher than any other lot. “Of course, I was happy with that bid,” Carpenter says. “A lot of heart and soul go into the wines that we produce at Cardinale, and to have somebody recognize that and contribute to the auction in that way is an honor. It’s a great event because I get to interact with my colleagues in the wine world here in Napa, and everybody’s in a festive, happy mood. What’s not to like?” 

Over the last few years, though, community-focused projects like Granor Farm have drawn an even higher caliber of chef, such as James Beard Award finalist and cookbook author Abra Berens, who now serves as the property’s culinary director. The farm’s impact on the area has been enormous. The abundance of organic produce, seedlings, herbs and flowers created a local ecosystem that can support other restaurants and local chefs, while the fine-dining service offered during their Taste of Granor meals raised expectations across the area. 

At the same time, young winemakers have begun to explore the potential of growing vines in the region due to the porous, rocky soils left behind by receding glaciers on the lakeshore. This quickly-draining terroir, along with proximity to the lake’s microclimates, makes it an ideal pocket for planting vineyards, and a new generation is following in the footsteps of the area’s earliest pioneering winemaker, Jim Lester at Wyncroft Wine. 

There are other, more practical reasons the area is thriving. People of all ages moved out of cities like Chicago in waves during the pandemic, driven partly by the rise of remote work and partly by increasing rent in urban areas. When these newcomers decamp to smaller communities like Michigan’s Harbor Country, some of them open bottle shops that double as indie music venues, like the recently unveiled Out There, or Southern cafes like Viola, and the result is a food and wine oasis that’s batting way out of its league.

With a pair of excellent, locally owned boutique hotels, an agriculturally driven brewery, and a day-to-night deli that morphs into a speakeasy at sundown, this little enclave has all the makings of America’s next great food and wine scene. And since it’s only about 90 minutes by car from Chicago, and less than an hour from South Bend and Kalamazoo, it’s easily accessible from quite a few directions. Here’s a rundown on the best of what Harbor Country, and a couple of neighborhoods just beyond it, have to offer.

Where to Stay

Marina Grand Resort

• 600 W Water Street, New Buffalo, MI 49117

Located right on the edge of the sparkling Oselka Marina, a full-service harbor that’s a big part of why so many locals flock here every summer, Marina Grand Resort is a luxury property with pretty much everything a visitor could possibly want on vacation. Nearly every room at the 78-key property has a view of the marina; it’s a great home base for those passing through for a few days. Longer-stay guests can spread out in one of their expansive, apartment-style suites, which include a king bedroom, living room, dining table, fireplace and full kitchen, plus two walk-out balconies. Designed with lots of light, bright wood and blue and white accents that nod to the waterfront outside, modern art from local artists rounds out the elevated coastal vibe. It’s the epitome of lake house living, without the hassle of home ownership. The lobby features a full coffee bar that offers fresh pastries, plus a pop-up from Stand Magazines, a collection of sleek print publications curated by local writer Lena Singer. A seasonal rooftop lounge and outdoor pool open every summer, while the indoor saltwater pool and jacuzzi are available year-round. Beach cruisers, beach towels and chairs are also complimentary for guests to borrow in season.

Harbor Grand

• 111 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

The slightly smaller sister hotel to Marina Grand, Harbor Grand was the original property on the marina, and has the same lake house feel and waterfront views. Located just a five-minute walk apart, the hotels easily share services, including restaurants (more on that below) and treatments in the harborfront Foundation Spa, though the facilities are located within Harbor Grand. With just 50 rooms, this property’s cozy footprint is bolstered by accommodations with fireplaces and soaking tubs or walk-in showers, plus Grown Alchemist products and plush robes. Every stay includes a complimentary picnic basket breakfast delivered to your door for breakfast in bed, with options like a frittata, croissant, chia pudding and more. For a bit of pampering, head downstairs for a massage or a swim in the indoor saltwater pool and hot tub. Better yet, this guesthouse is barely even a block from the beach, so lakefront morning walks or afternoon lounging on sunny days are another perk.

Where to Eat

Granor Farm

• 3520 Warren Woods Rd, Three Oaks, MI 49128

Granor Farm first opened in 2006, but has grown significantly in size and scope over the last two decades. This certified organic farm in Three Oaks, Michigan, was initially founded by Rob Buono and Liz Cicchelli as a 10-acre vegetable garden and education center. It now spans over 400 acres, includes a distillery, and hosts various events like a farm camp every year. Granor grows over a hundred varieties of vegetables, grains, flowers and herbs that are used by many chefs around the community, but their Taste of Granor dinners are still the best way to experience the bounty for yourself.

Now under the stewardship of culinary director Abra Berens, these multi-course meals are hosted in the stunning greenhouse and exclusively feature ingredients from the farm. The menu at a recent dinner included preparations like radish and beet carpaccio with ramp chili crisp, kale and cabbage salad with confit potatoes, and lamb ragu served over shishito polenta. Ingredients change seasonally, but expect five to six courses, plus wine pairings from local partner Stranger Wine, which custom-makes specialty southwest Michigan wines just for Granor.

David’s Deli

• 30 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

One of the most heartwarming stories in town, David’s Deli is run by married couple Emma Brewster and Joe Lindsay, who took over from the original owners back in 2009 when they were 22 and 23, respectively. Lindsay grew up in Chicago and spent summers in New Buffalo with his parents; he worked at the sandwich shop as a teenager when it first opened. Lindsay told the original owners he’d love to own a spot like David’s one day; he assumed a step like that would come much later in life. But when the owners called him two weeks later about taking over, he and Brewster took the leap and never looked back.

Now veterans in the deli space, they offer an incredible array of sandwiches, including several vegetable-focused options, plus plenty of preserved meats and house-made pickles. There are three kinds of Reubens on the menu, including a breakfast Reuben with an egg on it—an ideal way to start the day. The vibe is buzzy and casual, and the space functions as a morning meetup space for the community. They source ingredients from local farmers and producers in the area, including Granor Farms for produce, grains and legumes, and 5L Farms in Berrien Center, MI, for grass-fed beef.

Infusco Coffee

• 5846 Sawyer Rd, Sawyer, MI 49125

Ask anyone around southwest Michigan for a good spot to grab a cup of joe and do a bit of laptop work, and Infusco comes up consistently. This independent coffee shop serves hand-roasted coffee and that inimitable cozy atmosphere. It’s always a nice change of pace to go small with coffee when there’s a solid local option, and this place has everything from nitro cold brew to elaborate espresso drinks, and the choice between light or dark roast for the brew of the day. Plus, they have a host of baked goods—get the ham and cheese croissant if you’re feeling peckish. The original location in downtown Sawyer opened back in 2017 when owner Aaron Darling took over as local roaster. The brand is getting so popular that they opened a second location in the nearby town of St. Joseph, at The Market on Main Street, a year-round, indoor farmer’s market open seven days a week.

Viola

• 102 N Elm St, Three Oaks, MI 49128

Scott King and Anthony Bellon are two Southern expats who wanted to bring a taste of the region to their new home in Michigan. Finding truly authentic Southern food isn’t totally impossible in the Midwest, but it’s still exceedingly rare, which is definitely part of why Viola Cafe was an instant hit. From fried green tomatoes to crawfish etouffee, fluffy biscuits and beignets, and unmissable pimento cheese, this delightfully kitschy spot overdelivers on flavor.

Though all the dishes are inspired by recipes from the couple’s family matriarchs, the cafe itself was named Viola in its last iteration, and the new owners chose to keep the name. Louisiana-born Bellon runs front of house at the restaurant with plenty of southern charm, and back of house duties get lots of input from Alabama native King, led by chef Shelley Young, who owned The Chopping Block cooking schools in Chicago. Open five days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant frequently throws special events and southern-themed meetups, so keep an eye out for additional programming when you’re in town.

Bentwood Tavern

• 600 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

The flagship restaurant at Marina Grand doubles as one of the best spots in the city to partake in elevated, locally sourced gastropub fare while taking in marina views. The smoked whitefish dip, made using only fish sourced from Lake Superior, is a must-order starter; it’s a great companion for a crisp white wine, and the crunchy sourdough toast points are better than crackers. A double-cut pork chop served on a bed of roasted brussels sprouts and fingerling potatoes is more than enough for two people, and the fried chicken special is so popular that locals routinely come in just to get that on the days it’s available. The wine list encompasses a handful of Michigan producers, like the Talis sparkling brut from Mawby on the Leelanau Peninsula, which routinely attracts national attention, and a Chablis-style by-the-bottle 2024 chardonnay from Stranger Wines. For dessert, a generous wedge of double chocolate cake is great for the table to share, or to take up to your room and savor in front of your own personal fireplace.

PostBoy

• 207 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

A newcomer to the downtown strip in New Buffalo, this restaurant’s close proximity to the passing Amtrak is grandfathered into the deed of its historic building. The drama of a train rushing by the window during your appetizer course, or just before dessert, is a surprisingly welcome perk for most, and even if it’s not your speed, the quality of the plates will make up for it. After the success of his restaurants Houndstooth and Anemel in nearby Benton Harbor, chef James Galbraith teamed up with owner Ben Holland for PostBoy.

James Beard Award-nominated Galbraith has created a genuinely interesting menu here, with hints of sweetness and unique textures worked into even the savory options. Appetizer highlights include the tuna carpaccio topped with a caraway crisp and paired with creamy ajo blanco, plus a French onion dip served with crunchy, home fries-style potatoes for dipping. Vegetarians will be thrilled with the hefty sweet potato served atop cashew tahini and dusted with crispy chickpeas, or barbecue carrots smothered in spicy chimichurri. Short rib is a go-to for carnivores, and an “Orange Julius” panna cotta is a creative sweet finish. The space itself is a bright mix of Danish minimalism, pastel colors, and retro diner vibes. In the summer, grab a seat on their massive front patio to indulge in the cocktail menu as golden hour hits over the lake.

Farmette

• 18439 US Hwy 12, New Buffalo, MI 49117

Barely two years old, this marketplace, bakery and cafe from organic farmer and environmentalist Katie Burdett is one of the brightest, sunniest spots in town, with large windows, lots of outdoor space, and the owner’s own no-till and no-spray farm and garden. Burdett worked as a gardener for chef Rick Bayless in Chicago and at Granor Farms before opening Farmette in 2024. Now, inspired by the bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables growing in the area, and eager to bring sustainable produce into the city, she’s struck out on her own to provide a venue for New Buffalo residents to shop through the best of what’s grown in their own backyard. Aside from the produce, the bakery program, which churns out fresh sourdough boules daily, is another reason to visit. From tahini sesame to Castelvetrano olive, and the traditional plain, these tend to sell out quickly. Come early if you want to get a loaf, and pick up some local wine, prepared food, and curated local cheese and meat while you’re at it. Nota bene: This cafe also has the best cold brew in town.

Terrace Room

• 111 W. Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

The menu at the Terrace Room leans Italian, but it’s another great place to taste through the bounty of farm-fresh ingredients in the region. Located on the ground floor of the Harbor Grand, this place is packed on the weekends, so make a reservation even if you’re staying at the hotel. Start with fluffy focaccia that pairs beautifully with whipped ‘nduja chive butter for some savory and spicy elements, then move to a house salad full of local lettuces like radicchio, fennel and arugula, topped with hazelnuts for a crunch. Since most of these greens are grown within a few miles of the venue, there’s a constant freshness, even as the ingredients change seasonally.

The tagliolini is by far the best thing on the menu: a generous pasta served in a rich saffron-infused broth and dotted with clams, scallops, calamari, shrimp, tomato and Aleppo pepper. Topped with dill and finished with lemon and a dash of pinot grigio, it’s a contender for one of my favorite dishes of the year, and easily my favorite meal while in town. A stiff martini or an amaro might be the perfect nightcap.

Emma Hearth + Market

• 9709 Red Arrow Hwy, Bridgman, MI 49106

Bridgman is pretty far inland from the beaches of New Buffalo (about a 20-minute drive), but if you find yourself tasting at Domaine Berrien (see below), this is the ideal next stop. Whether you’re searching for a snack to complement a bit of a wine buzz or just interested in phenomenal pizza, Emma will scratch the itch. It’s also got a stellar wine list of its own that focuses entirely on Italian bottles, many of which pair well with their made-to-order pies. Offering wood-fired pizza in both New York and Detroit-style crust, the standout pie by far is the Satan’s Kiss, a spicy pizza seasoned with either mild cherry peppers or Calabrian chiles, then smothered in aged soppressata salami and gobs of fresh mozzarella. There are pastas, sandwiches, salads and on the menu too, but these pizzas are no joke, and would also make sense to take to-go if you’ve purchased a nice bottle of red from one of the wineries or bottle shops.

Where to Drink

Stranger Wine

• 201 E Front St, Buchanan, MI 49107

Husband-and-wife team Maxx Eichberg and Sydney Finan manage every aspect of their winery together. The couple purchased the Avonlea Estate from a pioneer in the region, Jim Lester, in 2021; Lester now focuses on his own estate farther north. Eichberg is the primary winemaker for Stranger Wine, but both he and Finan work regularly on the viticulture side, and strongly believe great wine is made more in the vineyard than in the winery. Along with their own estate, they farm another local vineyard and also purchase fruit from around the area. Their small batch, low-intervention approach is on full display at their tasting room in downtown Buchanan, where every single pour is a standout. These wines sell out fast, so taste and buy what you can while it’s available, and keep an eye out for big things from this quickly rising label.

Out There

• 12312 Red Arrow Hwy, Sawyer, MI 49125

Out There is so much more than a bottle shop; it doubles as both a wine bar and a de facto indie music venue when musician friends of owners Penny Duff and Michael Slaboch pass through town. The venue hosts tiny live shows whenever possible, but during my recent visit, synth-folk legend Helado Negro was casually DJing at the shop to celebrate Record Store Day.

After leaving Chicago, Duff and Slaboch unveiled this wine oasis in a 1950s-era former Shell station with another friend, Molly Kobelt, who has a background in flower farming at Chicago’s Field & Florist, in mid-2023. Well-versed in events and hospitality from their time running the catering and events company, The Storehouse, the couple stocks wine from all over the world, so expect everything from crisp Loire Valley whites and austere Austrian reds to local bottles from Stranger Wines.

Seedz

• 16321 Red Arrow Hwy, Union Pier, MI 49129

The low-level hum of microbrew culture in the United States for the last several decades is so ubiquitous that some Americans might forget just how rich the international history of beer-making really is. At Seedz, owner and New Buffalo native Ryan Ziarko pays homage to his Czech heritage—and to European beer in general—by reviving classic beer-making styles from around the world. His constantly changing list is informed by the local grains available to him and by how he can use them in Belgian, German and other brewing traditions.

“We use almost 100 percent ingredients from the Midwest, creating a European style with an American twist,” Ziarko tells Observer. “We’re technique-driven, so any Czech lager is fully made with Czech brewing techniques, the same with German and English beers, so we try to do everything as traditionally as we can. It’s partially so people who have never traveled can get that experience.” That “z” in the name? Also an homage to his own last name, and the prevalence of the letter in the Czech language. Not only does this place serve traditional beer made with local ingredients, but it doubles as a great place to catch a game.

False Front

• 30 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

The twin shadow of David’s Deli, this delightful speakeasy only comes out at night, as a curtain and a bar on wheels transform the daytime hang into a cozy in-town bar. As one of the few non-restaurant places to grab a drink in New Buffalo, this cocktail-focused joint is beloved by locals, and serves as a welcome surprise for any visitors who happen to stumble upon it. It doesn’t hurt that it’s within easy walking distance from either of the two main hotels.

The menu conveniently ranks their cocktails from breezy to boozy, so you can stick to your preferred consumption range. Stocked with a beer list of Michigan favorites, including rotating favorites from Seedz and a specialty European bottle list, and an international wine-by-the-glass list that favors affordability, there are also mocktails and bar snacks to round out the offerings. They’re excellent at churning out the classics—I ordered a Last Word, and it was a perfect rendition of chartreuse and gin, brandied cherry and all.

Tom Cat Tavern

• 18 N Elm St, Three Oaks, MI 49128

Discover the joys of “fine diving” with a late-night visit to Tom Cat Tavern, where the art of mixing high-brow and low-brow together has been perfected. A play on both the fine dining and dive bar traditions, Tom Cat marries the best of elevated ingredients and technique with the lovable camp of a great watering hole. Abby Voss moved to Michigan over a decade ago, and came up in drinking institutions like False Front and Nelson’s Tavern before opening her own joint in 2024. Cocktails and mocktails here are superb, though frozen drinks reign supreme, and their signature piña colada is always the best move—especially if you pair it with their cheese curds. These aren’t just any other fried cheese delight, though: these curds are tossed in ranch seasoning before hitting the deep fryer, for a Doritos-style flavor profile that is as wonderfully low-brow as it comes. My guess is that ranch washing their liquor is next.

P. & E. Bottle Shop

• 2 Maple St, Three Oaks, MI 49128

Once a tiny corner shop with international wines galore, this bottle shop recently got a makeover that not only opened it up to the main street of Three Oaks, but also almost tripled the space inside. In its new iteration, owners Pat and Ellie Mullins plan to expand their wine programming to classes and events. As that’s all coming together, keep checking in with their existing shop for highly customized bottle recommendations from some of the best wine minds around.

What to Do

Foundation Spa

• 111 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117

It’s rare to encounter a full-service spa in a town of less than 2,000 people, but since this one comes with access to a saltwater pool, it’s an even easier sell. If you don’t end up staying in one of these two main hotels, then booking a spa treatment is a great way to get a couple of hours of downtime to soak in the pool and relax before a massage, body treatment or facial. With five different massage types, three body wraps and one scrub, and five kinds of facials (plus enhancements like red light therapy and microcurrent lifts), this spa is more than just an afterthought. Luxuriate in the sugar glow scrub if you’re a lavender lover, or get a customized rub down with Voya essential oils if a Swedish massage is more your speed.

Warren Dunes State Park

• 12032 Red Arrow Hwy, Sawyer, MI 49125

The lakefront beaches just a block or two from the hotel are so obvious to spot that they don’t really need their own callout, but absolutely shouldn’t be missed. For something farther off the beaten path, almost any local will direct you to Warren Dunes State Park. There is a fee to enter the park for day use, but it can easily be avoided by foregoing the main entrance and heading just north to enter via Floral Lane. The dunes are filled with walkable trails, some covered with sand and some not, but the payoff for finishing the Mt. Randall Loop is a magnificent view of the lake among the dunes and tall grasses, worth any amount of sweat equity involved. This loop runs about four miles and offers several panoramic views, and the chance to head down to the water for a quick rest and a few photos of the coastline before returning is another highlight.

Harvest is in full swing when I arrive at Mount Mary, a small, single vineyard estate in the prestigious Yarra Valley in Victoria, a historic winemaking region in southeast Australia. Third-generation winemaker Sam Middleton peels away from his crew, who are busy maneuvering vats filled with grapes toward the crusher, and ushers me over to a bluff overlooking the vines to chat about the terroir. Gently rolling hills stretch out in what seems like every shade of green, broken up by areas of sunlight and shadow, and the neat rows of plantings are buffered by plenty of surrounding countryside. 

The landscape here is just as beautiful as the vineyards in Tuscany, Bordeaux or Napa, though a formidable 16-hour flight (which climbs to upwards of 21 hours if you’re coming from the East Coast) has proven a bit prohibitive for some North American visitors. But as the quality of wine produced in Victoria is increasingly lauded as some of the best in the world, the region has become impossible to ignore—especially for wine lovers. With a climate that Middleton remembers his grandfather identifying back in the ‘70s as “a little bit warmer than Burgundy and not quite as warm as Bordeaux,” there’s still an ongoing debate about what kinds of grapes, exactly, should define the area. The resulting face-off makes the trip even more rewarding for visitors. 

Though this relatively cool climate region of Australia has a history of grape-growing that dates back to before the 1870s, an economic downturn in the next half-century effectively wiped it off the broader winemaking map. Once-robust vineyards were ripped out by the 1920s, and the land was instead used for sheep farming and dairy production. Meanwhile, the characteristics of Victoria’s more prominent neighbor, the Barossa Valley in South Australia, clouded the typical international understanding of what Australian wine is—or more importantly, what it can be. 

Sarah Crowe, winemaker and general manager at Yarra Yering, one of the oldest, most acclaimed producers in the area, finds that stereotypes about bold, hearty wines from South Australia still reign supreme. “Yarra Valley in Victoria is a cool climate area, but when someone in North America thinks of Australian wine, they’re probably thinking of quite ripe, soft acid, juicy wines,” Crowe says. “Here, it’s a little more European. We’ve got brighter acidity, and these are fragrant, medium-weighted, elegant wines. When people try Yarra Yering, they say, ‘Oh, this is really nice—it’s not what I was expecting!’” 

But working at a disadvantage is a familiar position for winemakers in developing regions all over the New World. After all, it took a European verdict like the Judgment of Paris to really put Napa on the map back in the ‘70s. The Willamette Valley flourished quietly for years before any critics took Oregon seriously. Though there’s no singular moment of international acclaim for Victorian wine yet, lots of little moments keep adding up—and plenty of them have to do with Crowe’s winemaking. 

She took over as winemaker at Yarra Yering back in 2013, after spending some time in the Hunter Valley, a wine-growing region in New South Wales, just north of Sydney. By the time she came to this Yarra Valley icon, it already had a great reputation for the replantings carried out by founder Dr. Bailey Carrodus in 1969; under Crowe’s stewardship, it has catapulted onto the international stage with prize-winning blends and numerous vintages with sky-high scores. 

In person, she’s exceedingly humble, and—as most great winemakers will tell you—thinks caring for the vines and the fruit is of utmost concern, way beyond any personal technique. 

“I’m still quite involved with the viticulture side, because the more work we do there, the easier and more beautiful the wines are,” she says, noting the wines also become more “representative of the site.” After she won critic James Halliday’s coveted winemaker of the year in 2017, it quickly became clear the match-up between Crowe and the site was a winning combination. As Yarra Yering’s star continues to rise, so too does the rest of the valley. 

Over at Mount Mary, Middleton’s grandfather, Dr. John Middleton, began planting vines in the valley in the early 1970s, right around the time Yarra Yering was established. Dr. Middleton fell in love with Burgundy and Bordeaux wines midway through his life, and hoped to recreate what he’d experienced in France in his native Australia. “It wasn’t until the mid-1960s and early 1970s where the valley was again identified as a place to make age-worthy, subtle, restrained, elegant styles of wines that would match with food,” Middleton tells Observer. “And, we hoped, would match alongside the best wines in the world.”

Luckily for Middleton, his grandfather’s plantings were well researched. Part of a second wave of growers who sparked a revival in the valley, this tiny, family-owned-and-operated producer consistently receives national accolades for its wine. Both Yarra Yering and Mount Mary vary between blends that lean toward the Bordeaux style, with cabernet sauvignon blends that balance small percentages of varieties like merlot and petite verdot, as well as vintages of straight-ahead pinot noir and chardonnay, the darling grapes of cool growing regions. 

In my estimation, Middleton’s pinot noir was some of the best I’ve had anywhere in the world, but his heart will forever be with the Quintet, a cabernet sauvignon blend with merlot, cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec softening the edges. Like Yarra Yering’s Dry Red No. 1 and Dry Red No. 3, which are synonymous with the brand’s high quality, Quintet was a near-perfect blend. And as the second wave continues to build, it’s worth noting that these producers are standing on the shoulders of giants. 

At the oldest vineyard in the valley, Yering Station, the impact of the early settlers in the Yarra Valley comes into focus. The brand’s chief winemaker, Brendan Hawker, and chief viticulturist, Rod Harrison, were just as busy bringing in grapes during my visit, but still took time during the rainy, warm afternoon to step away from the intensive process and show me around Victoria’s most iconic wine estate. As the first and oldest vineyard in the state, Yering Station houses its tasting room (more commonly called a “cellar door” in Australia) in one of the site’s ancient original buildings. They’ve also added significantly to the facilities, with a contemporary restaurant offering spectacular landscape views, and expansive, state-of-the-art winemaking equipment.  

Now owned by the Rathbone Wine Group, a family-run syndicate with a wine portfolio that spans several celebrated estates around Australia, the winery supplements its estate-grown fruit by sourcing grapes from all over the valley, including vineyards scattered around the subregions of Yarra Glen and Coldstream. The history of their particular site, which has grown substantially in size over the last few years, is part of the draw for visiting the estate today. 

“The first vineyard that was planted here in 1838 was from two Scottish drovers, the Ryrie brothers, who laid their claim to an enormous parcel of 40,000 acres,” Hawker explains. “They ran the vineyard, made a bit of wine, and when the then-governor of the state of Victoria came through, he saw the potential. He had some experience in Switzerland, and encouraged people from there to come and start a wine region here.” 

Swiss settlers came to the valley and were key in establishing the early wave that Yering Station was a part of. That initial wine industry did so well that production at the winery was upwards of 50,000 cases a year, and the label was actually the only wine from the southern hemisphere to win a grand prize at the Paris Exhibition in the 1860s. But even this pioneering producer suffered the same fate as other producers in the region, and all the historic vines were ripped out amid the economic depression that began in the final decades of the 19th century. 

Part of the original vineyards were replanted in the late 1980s. The reimagined vineyards in the valley brought new life to the area, and in 1996, the Rathbone family purchased the historic site, helping to shepherd it into a renowned producer of cool-climate pinot noir and chardonnay. At the same time, cabernet and shiraz remain a key part of the portfolio. 

“One of the unique things about the Yarra is we do fantastic chardonnay and pinot noir, but we also have our own incredibly delicious cabernet,” Hawker says. “To be able to do both ends of that spectrum in terms of varietals is great—and then we’ve got shiraz in the middle of it, as well.” As the premier grape in Australian wine, shiraz, more often called syrah in North America and Europe, can be a bit overbearing for some palates. To balance out the wine and add a touch of restraint and silkiness, the team at Yering Station mixes it with another Rhône grape. 

“We’ve always done a northern Rhône co-ferment with viognier,” Hawker says. “Shiraz in a cooler climate like Yarra is almost like a different variety. Rather than being ripe and jammy with a fruit profile, we see a lot of spice. In cool areas, it can lean toward white pepper, and our shiraz has a bit more warmth to it and a savory complexity.” That complexity was on full display in a 2013 reserve vintage poured during lunch to pair with a hearty lamb dish. The age of the wine mellowed out the bottle somewhat, but there was still plenty of heft to stand up to the meat. The co-ferment gave this bottle a lovely individuality, and it was one of the most memorable wines I drank during the visit.

Now 30 years in, the site is representative of the diversity, quality and scale that’s possible in Victoria. Yering Station’s vast portfolio reinforces just how suitable the area is for growing, with impressive pinot noir and chardonnay, their version of shiraz, and a separate line, Yarrabank, showcasing a series of traditional method sparkling wines. Interestingly enough, sparkling wine is another style that thrives in the Yarra Valley, so much so that Chandon, part of LVMH, opened an estate in the Yarra Valley back in 1986. Their co-sign and investment here reaffirms the valley’s potential as an eventual rival for old-world regions. 

In the lead-up to one of their latest releases, the Chandon Étoile No. 3, a multi-vintage of sparkling wine taken from over the last three decades, the brand is bolstering its commitment that Australian wine can stand alongside the best in the world. “[This wine] embodies a ceaseless quest for excellence, the collaboration of a global community of winemakers united by curiosity, craft, and the belief that Australia can stand proudly among the world’s finest sparkling wine regions,” the label reads. 

With enough diversity to support Burgundy varietals, Bordeaux blends, Australia’s own juicy shiraz, and even sparkling wine, the Yarra Valley is a powerful player in the future of wine in Oceania. Whether it has the staying power to become one of the world’s best wine regions remains to be seen, but for travelers interested in where the wine industry is headed, the answer just might lie in this verdant valley right outside of Melbourne.

This year, the city is hosting World Cup games for the first time ever, and will be fielding even larger crowds than usual at the newly fortified BMO Field. But honestly, you don’t even need a pricey seat at the match to get caught up in the rush of a soccer season here, thanks to a plethora of bars and dining spots that bring the games to you.

“Toronto is such a diverse and multicultural city that it’s electric when it comes to big soccer events,” says Rocco Mastrangelo Jr., second-generation owner of Cafe Diplomatic, the historic restaurant in the heart of Little Italy that’s come to be known as the city’s unofficial soccer headquarters. “I always say even non-sports fans can get involved, because there are celebrations everywhere.” Known to locals as “The Dip,” this sprawling bar is so renowned for passionate fan gatherings that the official World Cup stream cut away to footage of the crowd here during the Qatar games. 

And the Dip isn’t the only place to get a great atmosphere, free-flowing drinks and plenty of TVs. Sprinkled throughout Little Portugal, a handful of soccer bars and restaurants known for great food and equally excited viewers are just as packed during the season. Whether or not you’ve managed to secure a spot at one of this year’s games, Toronto is still an excellent place for soccer fanatics to come and enjoy the beautiful chaos of the tournament. Even if you’re not in a soccer mood, a pedestrian-friendly layout, layers of diverse, upscale cuisine, a bevy of fantastic wine bars and world-class art museums all make it an engaging city for visitors.

The city is hosting six matches starting June 12, culminating in a final match on July 2 that could feature teams from Ghana, Panama, Canada, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Côte d’Ivoire, Croatia, Senegal and Iraq. For those who weren’t lucky enough to score tickets to the games, consider built-out activations like the FIFA Fan Festival or the Canada Soccer House. Along with suggestions of where else to catch the games, here’s a guide to some of the most memorable food and drink in the city, plus tips on what else to do and where to stay while you’re in town.

Where to Stay

Hotel X Toronto

• 111 Princes’ Blvd, Toronto, ON M6K 3C3

It’s hard to overstate the luxury of being able to walk to and from a World Cup game and completely skip the hassle of traffic and parking, or even the need to name a designated driver. While that convenience alone is reason enough to book into Hotel X, this property also offers a multitude of other amenities for a sports fan, including an athletic club with tennis courts, squash, pilates and a tricked-out fitness center, a rooftop pool, and 404 guest rooms, many with views of Lake Ontario. The ground-floor sports bar, Playbook Commons, is an ideal spot to grab a bite or a drink pre- and post-games, even if you’re not staying at the hotel, and Valerie, the rooftop bar and restaurant, offers more skyline views with a sushi-focused menu. Less than a 10-minute walk over to the stadium, it’s ideal for visitors who plan to spend most of their time watching the games in person. It has more than just sports appeal, though, with features like a Guerlain spa and an on-site movie theater.

The Drake

• 1150 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1J3

Arguably the coolest hotel in Toronto, this boutique, family-run property has the absolute best location in trendy Queen West—and it’s still less than a 10-minute drive to the stadium. A few streets down from several of the best soccer bars in the city, it’s also within walking distance to several restaurants and bars, like Bar Piquette, a fantastic French-coded wine bar one block over, or Pizzeria Badiali, currently the most famous pizza slice in the city. 51 rooms are snug and colorful with spacious tiled bathrooms and contemporary snacks. The ground-floor lobby doubles as a coworking space, and the all-day restaurant next door has a relaxed, diner feel. During the World Cup, guests can book a promotion where all the in-room snacks are included, a $300 value, plus a pair of limited-edition soccer T-shirts.

1 Hotel Toronto

• 550 Wellington Street W, Toronto, ON M5V 2V4

This upscale property is closer to central downtown, near iconic sites like the CN Tower, St. Lawrence Market (a must-visit historic food market full of local vendors), the Hockey Hall of Fame, and the Harbourfront, where the Canada Soccer House will be set up. It’s a few blocks over from TIFF Lightbox, for visitors who might want to catch an international film while in town. The rooftop pool is exceptional, offering sweeping views of the city’s skyline, and these 133 guest rooms are about as luxe as they come, with greenery, yoga mats, and other wellness-oriented amenities expected from the 1 Hotel brand. Don’t miss the clubstaurant vibes at Casa Madera, where Mediterranean and Mexican menus are enhanced by live DJs playing upbeat tracks for the performance artists and dancers who filter through the space. It’s a high-energy dining environment, ideal for sipping cocktails and sharing some small plates while coming down off a big win.

Fairmont York

• 100 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1E3

Now part of the global Accor group, Fairmont is a Canadian heritage brand known for tracing the path of the growing railway network with its luxury hotels during the 20th century. Many of the best and most historic Fairmonts are still found right next to train stations, so it’s no surprise that the Fairmont York is directly across from Union Station in Toronto. That means guests arriving at Pearson Airport can get right on the express UP train and take it practically to their hotel’s doorstep. A landmark that opened back in 1929, the sizable hotel’s 1,363 guest rooms are quiet and luxurious, with views of downtown. The best part of this particular property might be its bevy of excellent bars—the Clockwork in the lobby is an after-work favorite for champagne and cocktails, and the Library Bar is a literary-themed destination with historic martinis and speakeasy vibes. Even if you don’t book a room at this historic guesthouse, stopping in for a drink while you’re in the city is always a good idea.

Where to Watch

FIFA Fan Festival

• 250 Fort York Blvd, Toronto, ON M5V 3K9

Your mileage may vary at this sponsored event hosted at historic Fort York park and the Bentway, a public gathering space opened beneath the Gardiner Expressway. General admission tickets are free, but add-on tiers range from $100 to $300 for pavilion and clubhouse passes that offer premium viewing and expedited entry. Live match broadcasts on large screens, plus live entertainment, will be available all day, with food and drink for purchase. Sports fans drawn to a music festival-style experience on game day will likely enjoy this outdoor setup.

Cafe Diplomatico

• 594 College St., Toronto, ON M6G 1B3

This legendary sports bar and restaurant is the best place in the city to catch soccer fever. “Soccer is the most played sport across the world,” owner Rocco Mastrangelo Jr. tells Observer. “Watching the games together allows citizens who are proud of their country to participate. Our tagline has become ‘where nations unite’ because there are fans from every country who come here to watch. The diversity of the entire tournament, especially this year, because they’ve added so many teams, is huge.” Whether you’re a complete newcomer who wants to get into the spirit for the tournament, or a diehard fan looking for a crowd of like-minded fútbol lovers, all are welcome here. 

“When I took over, we started thinking, since it’s so diverse, we shouldn’t just be a place where Italians come to watch a match,” he explains. “I decided to add TVs to my patio, partnered with local breweries, and we became a destination for any soccer fan.” The venue shows every single match, with priority given based on the number of fans requesting specific games, and there’s plenty of Italian staples like pasta, pizza, and finger foods on the enormous food menu. Local beer and drinks are always flowing both indoors and out on the patio, where a big screen is always streaming the most exciting match of the day. If and when a big victory happens, the crowd here frequently shuts down the entire block with celebrations.

Canada Soccer House

• 235 Queens Quay W, Toronto, ON M5J 2G8

This family-friendly festival is another fan pop-up in town just for the World Cup. It features large viewing screens, live entertainment, and interactive fan experiences. It’s completely free and open to fans of all ages, so this is a great place to head if you’ve got soccer-loving kids with you. Hosted by Canada Soccer, the programming will run from June 11 through July 4, centered mainly on a Canada Day celebration on July 1, an annual event honoring Canada’s beginnings. All the programming will be hosted at the Harbourfront Centre, a 10-acre waterfront park in the heart of downtown.

Bairrada Churrasqueira “College”

• 1000 College St., Toronto, ON M6H 1A7

There are multiple Bairrada locations dotted throughout Toronto, primarily because of their excellent, affordably priced Portuguese cuisine, but the College location is particularly well-suited for World Cup viewing because of its beautiful hidden backyard. Everything from free appetizers, to giveaways, to beer promotions has been on offer at this hangout in the past, and games are shown during lunch, late afternoon, and dinner. Portuguese matches are prioritized, and the fervent crowds that gather here to cheer on their team are completely devoted. The charcoal-grilled meats are a must, and no matter what you order, add some piri-piri sauce. One of the staff recently mentioned to me that Seth Rogen is a fan of this place, so you might even catch a celeb or two while camped out at one of their quaint outdoor picnic tables.

Where to Eat

Carousel Bakery

• 93 Front St. East, Toronto, ON M5E 1C3

Located in St. Lawrence Market, the sandwich at Carousel Bakery is too iconic to miss—and unlike most of the city’s great food, which was imported from elsewhere, it actually originated in Toronto. The peameal bacon sandwich consists of several slices of back bacon rolled in cornmeal, which gives it a crunchy crust, sort of like pastrami, and is served on a country roll. The recommended condiment is honey mustard or maple mustard, though you can eat it plain. As the story goes, the meat was originally rolled in yellow peas to help preserve it, and now the cornmeal is used as an approximation. There’s nothing more Torontonian than this historic sandwich, and it’s less than $10, so it’s a no-brainer to try one while wandering through this local foodie market before or after a game.

Côte de Bœuf

• 130 Ossington Ave, Toronto, ON M6J 2Z5

Still a working butcher shop, this tiny French bistro first emerged as a few simple tables where customers could turn fresh cuts into sandwiches while waiting for larger orders. Eventually, the spot secured a wine list and began offering a selection of sancerre, Beaujolais and more regional wines by the glass and bottle, as well as entrées like steak and frites, terrines that change seasonally, and a legendary beef tartare. Between the French wine list and some of the freshest, highest-quality meat around, the place is constantly packed, so go early to secure a table without a wait. This is an ideal spot for anyone looking to celebrate a French victory, or alternatively, seeking consolation after a tough loss. Don’t leave without trying the terrine, and I recommend the chocolate mousse with sea salt for any occasion. If this location is packed to the gills, they just opened a sister restaurant, Brasserie Côte, in the nearby Annex neighborhood. Be warned: it’s likely to be very busy, but at least a second location doubles your chances.

Alobar Downtown

• 57A-162 Cumberland St., Toronto, ON M5R 0C7

This contemporary French restaurant is one of the newest outposts of the Alo culinary empire, which has taken over Toronto in the last several years, from the original Michelin-starred Alo to the much more casual, diner-style Aloette. Alobar is a bistro that falls somewhere in the middle, serving refined, decadent French food. The downtown location in the financial district is close to the World Cup action, but far enough away to serve as a quiet escape. A dark, elegant dining room is refined without feeling stuffy, and gourmet bites like Nova Scotia lobster and canestri pasta with white truffle pair beautifully with local Ontario wines.

Bar Isabel

• 797 College St., Toronto M6G1C7

If you’ve never visited the legendary Bar Raval, cross that off your bucket list first for excellent pinxtos and Spanish aperitifs. But for those who want a more bottle-focused dining experience, this moody haunt has one of the best lists in the city, and it’s wedged right between Little Italy and Little Portugal. Get your fill of screaming soccer-filled pubs, then decamp to this slightly more elevated environment for a nice bottle of Rioja, a series of conservas, half or whole grilled octopus, and basque cake with sherry cream. Bottles are by no means necessary; there are plenty of cocktails, craft beer, and vermouth and sherry for additional drinking options.

The Rabbit Hole

• 21 Adelaide St W., Toronto, ON M5H 1L6

A cozy little pub that leans decidedly British, the Rabbit Hole is a quick 10-minute drive from BMO Field in the financial district, and it’s open for lunch and drinks from 11:30 a.m. onward. Classic pub food like fish and chips, beef Wellington and Scotch eggs are staples here, and traditional fare like steak and mushroom pies or shepherd’s pie are just as popular. With only a few TVs mounted over the fireplace in the front room, there’s a good chance any match featuring Britain will be going full blast, but a quieter back room, plus plenty of patio space, mean there are also options for those who want a break from soccer. Either way, the strong cocktail list and elevated pub fare make this a good place for travelers to visit while in town.

Tutto Panino

• 100 Sorauren Ave, Toronto ON M6R 2E2

A mom-and-pop sandwich shop that’s tucked away from the main drag in the Roncesvalles neighborhood, the Roman-style offerings here are inventive enough that the counter is usually quite busy. While Italy (tragically) didn’t make the World Cup this year, there’s always room to grab a sandwich in between matches, and the deli owners plan to set up a screen on their patio during the tournament. The emotional rollercoaster of watching your favorite teams battle it out is enough to work up an appetite, and these sandwiches are good value, delicious, and incredibly fresh. Order ahead of time to get some to-go peach and prosciutto subs, or sit at one of the outdoor cafe tables and luxuriate in a classic mortadella with fresh mozzarella and pickled fennel. End on a sweet note with a fun-size chocolate chip and ricotta cannoli, plus keep an eye out for specialty seasonal flavors.

Where to Play

Art Gallery of Ontario

• 317 Dundas Street West, Toronto, Ontario M5T 1G4

Known colloquially as the AGO, this Canadian landmark houses a rotating collection of more than 120,000 works of art in a monumental building. Though the museum is more than a century old, a 2008 renovation by renowned architect and Toronto native Frank Gehry turned it into an architectural marvel with a 600-foot glass facade, a Baroque spiral staircase, and the light-filled Galleria Italia, a “ship-like” atrium made of Douglas fir. One of the foremost art museums not just in Canada but in all of North America, the gallery regularly hosts exhibits by world-class artists like Keith Haring and KAWS, plus a permanent collection of modern masters featuring works by Chagall, Matisse and Picasso. Currently, a collection of historic photographs from the ‘60s taken by Paul McCartney during Beatlemania is on display; an upcoming focus on Impressionism opens in June. Another key feature of this museum is its effort to make regular use affordable for all—an annual pass costs only $40 for a full year of access.

Toronto Bicycle Tours

• 124 St Patrick St, Toronto, ON M5T 2X8

One of the best ways to explore this pedestrian-friendly city is on two wheels, and the guides at Toronto Bicycle Tours know just where to take visitors for incredible views and serene nature escapes hidden in the city. One of the most popular tours is an exploration of the nearby Toronto Islands, accessible by ferry. These historic isles just off the coast offer access to a community that’s interlaced with car-free paths and highly coveted real estate with a years-long waiting list. Other tour options include a classic run through downtown Toronto’s most iconic sights or a food-focused tour complete with tastings. Even if you spend the rest of your visit glued to a screen, this is a chance to get out and move a little and get a little more familiar with the city while you’re at it.

10XTO Athletic Club

• 107 Princes’ Blvd, Toronto, ON M6K 3C3, Canada

10XTO is an Equinox-style private luxury gym connected to Hotel X, and though it usually comes with hefty membership fees, hotel guests can access it complimentary or at modest drop-in rates during their stay. A massive 6,500-square-foot fitness area with views of Toronto sites like the CN Tower is completely free for guests, and some of the other amenities like a cold plunge and sauna contrast therapy, personal training, hot yoga and boxing classes are offered daily on an à la carte basis. Since parking in front of a screen for World Cup viewing means a lot of sitting, a visit to the club is a great way to stay active and alert during a packed trip.

Down a dramatic palm tree-lined driveway dotted with immaculate flower beds, paved red bricks lead to a hacienda lobby where La Quinta Resort opens up like a portal to 1926. Just past the main entrance of the hotel’s restaurant, Morgan’s in the Desert, a small private room is labeled “Grgich” in the resort’s signature Spanish tiles. Unwitting visitors walk past the venue without thinking twice, but those familiar with Croatian-American winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich may pause for a photo or an appreciative glance. Grgich’s profound winemaking and insistence on honoring California terroir was influential enough to bring Napa’s culture not just to the Coachella Valley, but across the world. 

As the winemaker behind Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay, the highest-ranked vintage in the fateful Judgment of Paris blind tasting in 1976, Grgich was a driving force in establishing Napa as a world-class wine region. Soon after the competition, he opened his own winery, Grgich Hills Estate, and saved up to purchase a parcel of land in Rutherford, back when it was just a few thousand dollars. He worked as the winemaker there until 2018, when, at the age of 95, he finally retired and handed the reins over to his nephew, Ivo Jeramaz. Grgich passed away five years later at the ripe old age of 100, and missed out on the fanfare surrounding the 50th anniversary of the milestone that defined his career.

But half a century later, there’s a reason the Judgment of Paris is still a cornerstone of American wine lore. Napa wasn’t always synonymous with fine wine, and this watershed moment established California—and the New World in general—as a credible alternative to European producers. A David-and-Goliath story, the event has everything from shocking upsets and scrappy upstarts to New World versus Old World and humble farmers beating out prestigious producers. In France, the event isn’t remembered as fondly as in the U.S., but it didn’t inflict lasting damage; French wine is still globally beloved and arguably the most significant player worldwide.

A quick rundown for anyone who needs a refresher: Back in 1976, British importer Steven Spurrier proposed a blind tasting of the premier California chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon against the best Bordeaux reds and Burgundian whites. The tasting panel for the Paris wine competition was composed solely of French judges, who, without realizing it, overwhelmingly chose American wines as the winners, self-assured that they’d selected the best of France. (They even reportedly criticized the French wines they tasted, assuming they were California vintages.)

Thanks to the presence of an American journalist, George Taber, the results of the Judgment of Paris, as it came to be called, were captured and transmitted back to the States via a piece in Time magazine. “The U.S. winners are little known to wine lovers, since they are in short supply even in California and rather expensive ($6 plus),” goes Taber’s commentary. The story quickly caught fire, boosting the reputation of the American wineries that won, and signaling to the rest of the New World that American wine was just as good, if not better, than the legacy European houses. Or at least, it had a chance to be.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the historic event, Grgich Estate partnered with La Quinta on a special anniversary dinner honoring its legacy. Grgich himself loved this desert hotel, and spent a significant amount of time there toward the end of his life, so it was a fitting place to throw a party honoring his legacy. At the dinner, Jeramaz talked guests through the pairings, one of which was an outstanding 2020 Old Vine Zinfandel. After I expressed amazement at the quality of the wine—a grape I usually avoid—Jeramaz shared a private memory: this wine was a particular favorite of his uncle, and it was the final wine he drank before he died. 

Jeramaz, who worked alongside Mike Grgich for three decades, now serves as Grgich’s winemaker and VP of vineyards and production. In his estimation, the Judgment of Paris ruling was so impactful that it might be the only reason Grgich’s winery exists. “Mike most likely would’ve never had his own winery without the Judgment of Paris,” he says. “He was a very cautious man, and the event gave him courage to see that he was an incredible winemaker, and that there was a demand for the kind of wine he made. It gave him courage to open a winery. Everyone was fighting for him to be their winemaker, but he wanted to strike out on his own.” 

The tasting took place in May 1976, and just over a year later, on July 4, 1977, Mike and his partner, Austin Hills, broke ground. Jeramaz came to America from Croatia a few years after that, starting at the bottom as a cellar hand and slowly working his way up to the role of head winemaker he holds today. But Jeramaz only began to understand the full effect of the Judgment later, seeing that it had an impact not only on Napa wines, but on the rest of the New World, too. 

“I started realizing how significant it was, not just for Napa, California, but for all the New World regions—Chile, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand,” he says. “No, you don’t have to be in Burgundy to plant chardonnay. You can grow beautiful chardonnay in many, many regions, not just in Burgundy.” A cornerstone of Grgich’s winemaking style was the complete and total embrace of regenerative farming practices, and Jeramaz spent decades learning his methods, which focus, above all else, on regenerative farming. It’s these methods, he hypothesizes, that make a zinfandel grape from their vineyards taste different than any other. 

“He said luck was a part of it, of course,” Jeramaz remembers. “Mike was very fortunate that his wine was selected; he didn’t even know that his wine was there. It was luck that his wine was selected, but it wasn’t luck that his wine was good. That’s what he told me. It was 40 years of experience, diligence, passion and dedication that created quality.”

Five decades on, the Judgment continues to resonate for other American contenders, and not just in Napa. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which took first place in the red category for its 1973 S.L.V. Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, was instrumental in cementing cabernet’s dominance in Napa. Even today, their estate wine commands a high price because of the value of the vineyards where these grapes are produced. While the land isn’t priceless, it’s still among some of the most sought-after in the world. The Stags Leap District, a distinct AVA created to highlight this particular terroir, was established in 1989, largely due to the attention that followed the French tasting. 

To commemorate the event that has all but defined their brand, Stag’s Leap hosted a dinner marking the anniversary at this year’s Pebble Beach Food & Wine festival. “The Judgment of Paris told the grape growers working in Napa Valley that they were doing something great, that it was working,” one of Stag’s Leap winemakers, Luis Contreras, told guests at the event. “French wines are regarded as the best in the world—and I love French wines—but this broke the glass ceiling all over the world.”

Joined by Chalone, an American producer that took third place in the white category, both wineries offered a selection of their current and library wine vintages for attendees to taste. Standout vintages like the 2009 and 2023 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2024 Chalone Estate Chardonnay, Judgment of Paris 50th Anniversary, a commemorative release, showcased the terroir they put on the map. In conversation with Contreras the next day, when he graciously brought an empty bottle of the legendary 1973 S.L.V. cabernet for me to touch in real life (not the original bottle used in the tasting, as that’s safely ensconced in The Smithsonian, but one of the same vintage), he expanded on how Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars became synonymous with Napa cabernet.

“Every wine is important, but our three estate wines, the Fay, S.L.V. and Cask—which are all cabernet sauvignon with a bit of cabernet franc—are essential,” Contreras says. “Fay is the first cabernet sauvignon vineyard that was planted in the Stag’s Leap District, by Nathan Fay back in the early 1960s. Back then, anything below Rutherford was thought to be too cold, but Fay took a chance planting cabernet sauvignon, so that site is very historical.”

As the story goes, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars founder Warren Winiarski visited Nathan Fay in 1969 to discuss wine-growing practices. Fay offered him a glass of homemade wine and Winiarski reportedly said, “I hope that wine tastes as good as it smells.” It must have, as that one glass convinced him this area was the perfect place to grow wine that would reflect the classic beauty and complexity of the terroir. The next year, in 1970, a 40-acre parcel next to Fay vineyards became available. Winiarski snapped it up and dubbed it S.L.V; 1973 was the first vintage from that land, and it was the bottle that beat out every French red in 1976.

“This was a historical moment that can’t be lost, it needs to be affirmed over and over,” Contreras says. “Just for our own history and the commitment that we have to continue making the best wine we can. It also helps contextualize how Napa Valley came to be what it is today, and how our culture is linked with wine. Our terroir is amazing to make wine from, and we celebrate this tasting to highlight the very special place we have in Napa Valley.”

Born in Mexico, Contreras moved to Napa when he was 13, and has worked at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for practically his entire life. After high school, he took a gig as a seasonal bottler for a few years before realizing he wanted to work in the cellar, where he spent almost a decade as a cellar hand. He worked his way up to cellar supervisor, then cellar master, assistant winemaker, and eventually to his current role as a full-fledged winemaker. Contreras never left to work for any other brand or to moonlight at any other vineyard—he says there’s nowhere he’d rather be than Stag’s Leap.

“It feels great to work at a place with this kind of history, but it’s a great commitment as well,” he says. “Every little thing needs to be very precise. Wine lovers are expecting a certain quality from us. My commitment to present great wine makes me think in different ways. I’ve worked with lots of different winemakers, but my biggest mentor is Marcus Notaro, our current head winemaker. We started working together in 2013, when he grabbed my hand and walked me through the process. I can’t think of anywhere better to work.”

Napa wasn’t the only region impacted by the decision handed down from French palates. Three of the California wines presented in the tasting came from outside the Napa Valley, but only one placed in the top three: a 1974 chardonnay from Monterey County producer Chalone. Like Stag’s Leap, this winery was brand-new at the time, and this chardonnay was their second-ever vintage. And like both Stag’s Leap and the quickly-formed Grgich estate, the land where these vineyards are planted is like nowhere else in the world. 

“What we accomplished 50 years ago has really helped further the entire central coast as a prominent and serious wine region,” explains Chalone winemaker Mari Wells Coyle. “There was a lot of skepticism about what California truly could be.” Wells Coyle is the VP of winemaking at Foley Family Wine & Spirits, which bought Chalone in 2016, and has been shepherding winemaking at the site since 2023. “The Judgment of Paris didn’t just put Chalone on the map; it put Monterey on the map,” she says. “At that time, we were still an emerging wine region, and it was a really good opportunity for us to understand that we have these capabilities and soil types and we can compete with the old world region.”

Easily the most iconic winery in Monterey, all of the brand’s vineyards are located within their own Chalone AVA, which was designated in 1982 following the Judgment. The vineyards rest up against the Pinnacles National Park at about 1,800 feet elevation, and are planted in unique limestone and decomposed granite soils. The soils and the elevation, coupled with the site aspect, make it well-suited for growing grapes, and it’s situated on a west-facing slope with lots of afternoon sun that’s ideal for ripening. This estate is particularly rare because there’s not a lot of limestone in California, especially across an entire site.

For many winemakers, developing a key style, or drawing out a certain characteristic in the wine, is a major part of the job. For Coyle, though, the challenge is to step back as much as possible and let the land tell its own story. “I feel a lot of gratitude because working with this site is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” she says. “For me, it’s about really listening and understanding the vineyard. Our vineyard manager, Richard Bore, has been there for over 30 years, so he’s seen the whole legacy unfold and has been there shepherding the vines. It’s about trying to have the least amount of impact and let the wines be what they are—to just continue the legacy.”

While the central coast matured as a wine region at a slower pace than Napa, these days it has certainly attained global recognition, particularly in regions like Paso Robles and the Santa Ynez Valley. Winemaking in California as a whole surely owes a debt of gratitude to the Judgment of Paris for unprecedented growth over the last 50 years, but also for sparking a deeper understanding of how valuable the terroir here actually could be. 

And even in a time of economic downturn, when the industry is in a phase of contracting, for those who are tasked with carrying on the legacies of these vineyards, the focus on caring for the land and the fruit remains supreme. “Every day, I think about my late uncle Mike and how wise he was,” Jeramaz says. “Like buying this land back when it was $9,000 to $21,000, versus $1 million. We can cut production in half, and not just survive, but thrive. I’m most excited about regenerative farming, which I see great benefits from. There’s endless opportunity to improve with nature.”

In times of instability, there’s an all too real fear that the best of an industry will be ripped away. Looking backward, though, it’s easy to see that even when Napa was just a scrappy, would-be player on the world stage, certain principles have always risen to the top. “There’s no tricks with winemaking,” Jeramaz says. “There’s no stopping, it’s not like, ‘OK, now I know everything and I’ll make a perfect wine.’ Absolutely not. Winemaking is important, but it’s secondary to grape growing.” 

An optimistic hypothesis: For those in the industry who are focused on farming their land sustainably, growing beautiful fruit, and letting the elegant terroir shine through in the winemaking, the current downturn will have little impact. A lot can change in 50 years, but wineries like these have already proven they can stand the test of time. 

Time Out’s annual survey of locals and travel experts went so far as to name Melbourne the top foodie city in the world for 2026, with the food scene as a huge part of the overall score. Beyond that, the surrounding wine country in Victoria is growing in stature. Melbourne’s scene arguably wouldn’t be possible without the farming regions that are just a stone’s throw outside the city center, including one that’s been a local getaway for at least a century. 

Only 45 minutes south of Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula has long been a local hotspot for its beautiful coastlines and thermal hot springs. In the ‘90s and 2000s, an influx of vineyards and restaurants like Ten Minutes By Tractor began to receive acclaim. Pioneers like Crittenden Estate and Port Phillip Estate landed in the area as far back as the ‘80s, with industry veterans like Quealy moving in a decade later, and Polperro following in the 2000s. The opening of several flagship food and wine venues at Pt. Leo Estate’s 330-acre property further built out the scene.

Mornington is about an hour’s drive from Melbourne, and while it’s possible to go for the day, it’s well worth tacking on a few additional nights to explore beyond the city—especially for international travelers who have already made the long journey to get to Australia in the first place. The region gives visitors a sense of how Melbourne became the culinary hub it is today. 

Getting to Melbourne from the U.S. has gotten (at least relatively) more manageable over the past few years. Delta recently launched a direct flight from L.A. to Melbourne, making the 16-hour journey a bit less intimidating. United offers a direct route from San Francisco, and both United and American have options from Dallas (via their partnership with Qantas). As someone who’s made the trip to Oceania four times in the last three years, my advice is to always upgrade to a bulkhead seat for more legroom when possible. Below, check out our guide for the best of what the Mornington Peninsula has to offer—and if you want even more, don’t miss our companion guide on the best Melbourne wine bars for when you’re back in the city.

Where to Stay

Jackalope Hotel

• 166 Balnarring Road, Merricks North VIC 3926

Hotelier Louis Li opened this boutique property in 2017, winning Hotel of the Year from Australia’s Gourmet Traveller the same year. Upon visiting, it’s easy to see why it’s so lauded—the dark, contemporary property boasts meticulous details, like heated bathroom floors, plush carpets, and terraces with vineyard views from nearly every room. Now a decade in, the 45-key guesthouse has been awarded two Michelin keys, and recently underwent a light refresh. An on-site cellar door is complimentary for hotel guests, and a vineyard trail allows for a chance to take in the spectacular views. 

Two on-site restaurants and a separate cocktail bar offer variety in the relatively rural area. A set menu at the chef-hatted restaurant (akin to one Michelin star), Doot Doot Doot, is excellent for extravagant nights—more on that below. Lunch is available daily at another venue, Rare Hare, and a large, sunny pool deck with an infinity edge pool, plus a hot tub and sauna, has its own menu. Room rates here include breakfast, a comprehensive in-room mini-bar, and complimentary popcorn and ice cream delivery. Grab a pair of their custom cotton jersey blend PJs, which double as a stylish, cozy fit for the plane ride home.

Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill

• 142 Arthurs Seat Road Red Hill, VIC 3937

Lancemore is a boutique Australian hotel group with a reputation for impeccable service, which guests can experience firsthand at their restored estate in Red Hill. The 40-room property is peaceful and romantic, with vintage furniture, fireplaces and crisp grey-and-white accommodations that evoke a country-house style. Balcony suites offer views of the lake, surrounding woodlands and manicured gardens along with contemporary walk-in showers and bathtubs. The property works closely with the rest of the community, offering rates that include complimentary access to Alba hot springs, Pt. Leo’s sculpture park or wine tasting at Quealy, one of the foremost cellar doors in the region. Their own cellar door for Lindenderry Estate wine is open every weekend with a small snacking menu, and the restaurant, which has been awarded two chef hats, offers one of the best fine dining experiences in the region. All room rates come with daily, seasonal breakfast at the restaurant, and picnic lunches on the banks of the lake are another charming amenity. 

Lakeside Villas at Crittenden Estate

• 25 Harrisons Rd, Dromana VIC 3936

The chance to stay at one of the most influential wine estates in the region is enough to get many guests in the door at Crittenden’s contemporary lakeside villas. With views for days and an immense amount of privacy, there’s no better option for wine-focused travelers who will love close proximity to the vineyards. There are only three free-standing accommodations on property, so they tend to book up quickly, but the spacious setup allows for privacy and larger groups if needed. All villas have a bedroom that can be outfitted with either a king bed or two singles, and a queen sofa bed is also available on request. The villas are ideal for group trips or families, and a fully-stocked kitchen, grill, working wood stove, private deck and laundry facilities offer flexibility and space. Breakfast hampers with ingredients for guests to prepare their own meal are included in room rates, along with two complimentary wine tastings and a bottle of the estate sparkling wine. Crittenden’s restaurant offers a wood-fired menu paired with the best of their own wine list, and the cellar door remains an influential and highly-acclaimed force in the local winemaking scene. Since it is such a small operation, check the room packages carefully, as they’re often updated with in-room spa treatments, vineyard picnics, community partnerships, and other luxurious perks. 

Where to Eat and Drink

Laura

• 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks, VIC 3916

This two-hatted restaurant at Pt. Leo Estate (the North American equivalent would be two Michelin stars) has become a fixture not only in the local community but also for guests driving down from Melbourne for special occasions. Plenty of visitors come to the estate for a more approachable, casual dine, or simply to wander through the sculpture park, but the allure of Laura is undeniable. Named after the 23-foot-tall, cast-iron sculpture by Jaume Plensa that sits just outside the space, the brightly lit restaurant, which features a glass wall overlooking the garden and water beyond, is one of four venues in the country recognized by Relais & Châteaux. 

Originally from Catalonia, Spain, culinary director Josep Espuga has created a menu that incorporates ingredients from the on-site garden and local producers, along with flavors of his native country. The eight-course signature menu is $185 AUD with beverage pairings, including the best of Pt. Leo’s own wine label, for an additional $95 AUD. The meal is more like a choreographed experience, with impeccable service, than a typical dine, unfolding over three or four hours. 

Polperro Winery

• 150 Red Hill Rd, Red Hill, VIC, 3937

Dining in a vineyard—or on the lawn overlooking one—already sounds appealing, but trust that it’s even more wonderful with a glass of Polperro wine in hand. Like Pt. Leo Estate, a visit to this celebrated family-run compound can be many things. There’s a tucked-away cellar door where wine-focused guests can experience guided tastings, a lawn overlooking the vineyard for casual dining via a grazing menu that offers à la carte snacks and by-the-glass pours, and finally, a fine dining restaurant with a set menu ($150 AUD) and wine pairings ($120 AUD) for those who want a more immersive experience. In Australia, the Michelin-style restaurant guide is designated by chef hats, and chef Gayan Pieris has earned one hat here for his set menu offerings. Guests are welcome to dine indoors or outdoors, though many initially choose a table inside and later move outdoors to linger over dessert. 

Winemaker and owner Sam Coverdale began his career as a cellar hand at age 18. After making wine throughout Australia and Europe, he ended up in the Red Hill area of Mornington, Coverdale established Polperro Estate in 2009, building a multi-label portfolio that has garnered international acclaim. All Polperro wine is sourced from estate-grown fruit, and the label is particularly well known for its expressive single vineyard releases. His single vineyard 2023 Talland Hills pinot noir is among the best I’ve ever tasted. A second label, Even Keel, was founded back in 2006, and features wine made from grapes sourced from all over the country. 

Ocean Eight

• 271 Tucks Road, Shoreham 3916, VIC

A small, family-run operation, Ocean Eight is the foremost producer of pinot gris in Mornington, with a rich history of winemaking in the area. Back in the ‘90s, founders Chris and Gail Aylward purchased several plots of land on the peninsula and established their winery, including the Kooyong estate. That’s where their son, Mike Aylward, began his foray into winemaking, and Kooyong’s wines soon earned national acclaim and helped put the Mornington Peninsula on the map as a significant wine region. The family sold Kooyong to Port Phillip Estate in 2004; Aylward now focuses exclusively on Ocean Eight, with an emphasis on pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir. The cellar door is open for visitors from noon to 5 p.m. daily, with indoor spots and a secluded outdoor area overlooking the rolling green hills and vineyards of the estate. The pinot gris is truly exceptional, and sipping a glass while the cool ocean breeze rolls through the landscape is a singular experience.

Doot Doot Doot

• 166 Balnarring Road, Merricks North, VIC 3926

The fine dining restaurant at Jackalope is a destination unto itself, even for those who aren’t staying the night at the hotel. A set five-course menu is, as expected, seasonally-driven and changes often, but what doesn’t change is the striking 10,000-lightbulb chandelier overhead, which creates a decidedly romantic setting. The other constant is a well-curated wine menu that includes international offerings, but also hones in on the best producers in Mornington and around Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia. Expect velvety syrah (or shiraz, as they call it here), along with crisp, balanced chardonnays and delicate pinot noir. Lavish additions like caviar, oysters and A5 wagyu can all be added to the experience, but if they still have the after-dinner baked Camembert with fresh honeycomb, this is utterly unmissable. Pre-dinner drinks or nightcaps at Flaggerdoot are also exceptional, so leave a little extra time to indulge there before or after your meal.

Pt. Leo Restaurant & Wine Terrace

• 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks, VIC 3916

If wandering through a sculpture park or sitting down to a delightful eight-course fine dining experience doesn’t get you in the door, then Pt. Leo’s flagship restaurant will. Even this more casual dining experience has been awarded a chef’s hat, signifying technical excellence and care in sourcing local ingredients. Approachable enough that families are among the most frequent patrons, but refined enough that it doubles as a great place for a date, the restaurant’s spacious dining room full of sunlight is part of the draw. The wine terrace is even more laid-back, and there are also specialty children’s menus, vegetarian offerings, non-alcoholic beverage options and set menus for large groups. The menu changes seasonally, but an emphasis on seafood is a driving force—I recommend searching for dishes that highlight local fish and shellfish, especially since they pair so well with their exceptional pinot gris, chardonnay and sparkling wine.

Rare Hare Wines Cellar Door

• 166 Balnarring Road, Merricks North, VIC 3926

Once you’ve checked into your room at Jackalope, it’s worth a visit to the quaint cellar door located directly across from the lobby. Friendly staff will guide you through a complimentary tasting of the estate’s own vintages, offering their own suggestions and color commentary on the winemaking process, grape varietals, and overall quality of what’s in your glass. For those who might not be as familiar with Australian wine, this is the ideal place for a crash course in cool-climate terroir and the region’s stylistic preferences. Estate wines are made from the 28 acres of vines on the property that were planted back in 1989. Hotel guests get one free tasting per stay, but if you’re in the area and want to visit, the drop-in fee is $15 for a standard flight.

Bass & Flinders Distillery

• 40 Collins Rd, Dromana VIC 3936

Second-generation distiller Holly Flinders took over this small-batch, local brand, emphasizing native botanicals and handcrafted spirits, from her father, Wayne. Grape-to-glass gin is a core tenet of the Bass & Flinders portfolio, along with brandy, and spirits and liqueurs. If you’re just looking to pick up a bottle of local gin, then the Maritime Gin ($84 AUD) is a salty, herbaceous spirit that will please fans of the complex flavors in Botanist or Monkey 47. But there’s a whole slew of distilling-related programming at Bass & Flinders, making it a great stop for visitors who want some hands-on experience. The gin masterclass is a two-hour workshop where attendees create their own bottle of gin by experimenting with botanical blends, and comes complete with a cheeseboard for nibbling and free-flowing gin and tonics. Experts and alumni can return for a graduate masterclass to build on their past work, and less intensive offerings, such as bottomless brunch, high tea, and farm-to-table pairings, are always available. No matter what you book, don’t leave without trying the Maritime Gin, made from locally foraged kelp, samphire, currant bush and lemon myrtle. 

Mock Red Hill

• 1103 Mornington-Flinders Road, Red Hill, VIC 3937

Before the hot springs culture, restaurants and vineyards took over Mornington, the area was known for its fruit orchards. Everything from apples and cherries to pears and other berries thrived in this region, thanks in part to the fantastic soil quality, and one family has continued the tradition of growing local apples. Mock Red Hill is a fifth-generation farm that’s been in the Mock family since 1895, and is notable for becoming the first certified Demeter biodynamic orchard in Australia back in 1974. The family uses their fruit to create a range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic ciders, freeze-dried fruit, and plenty of other apple-related products. Visit their cider lounge for a $15 AUD flight of crisp, fruit-driven ciders that range from dry to sweet, and don’t be surprised if a few of the Mock sisters wander in and sit down at the picnic tables next to you for a chance to imbibe. If you’re hungry, there’s a menu filled with homemade snacks, including an apple pie so beloved that it sells out constantly. 

What to Do

Alba Thermal Springs

• 282 Browns Rd, Fingal, VIC 3939

Mornington Peninsula has traditionally been a destination for hot springs and spas, and Alba, one of the newest openings, brings a new level of luxury. With just over 30 geothermal pools laid out across nearly 40 acres, there’s plenty of privacy even when the springs are full of visitors. All of the thermal springs are outdoors and spread across natural landscapes, so flowers, meadows and trees are interwoven into the bathing experience. Paved stone and rock pathways guide guests through the maze of pools, which glisten against striking white and gray architecture. A central water feature is designed to emulate the sound of a babbling brook or a waterfall, sending soothing white noise wafting throughout the springs. Amenities include a cold plunge, sauna and steam room. A separate spa with a service menu is also available to book.

When you’re finished bathing, throw on a bathrobe and have a produce-driven lunch at Thyme restaurant, where a menu designed by Australian chef Karen Martini places Victorian wine front and center. Newly built accommodations provide guests who want to spend their whole stay soaking in the natural waters with the option to stay overnight, and the whole place screams honeymoon for those seeking a secluded getaway.

Pt. Leo Estate Sculpture Park

• 3649 Frankston-Flinders Road, Merricks, VIC 3916

If you only have time for a quick day trip out to Mornington, prioritize a visit to the Pt. Leo Estate. This 330-acre domain encompasses three restaurants, a 50-acre vineyard and a cellar door for wine tasting, casual snacks and bottle purchases. There’s also a 16.5-acre sculpture park featuring notable works by international artists like Kaws and Tomokazu Matsuyama. The bulk of the property is set right on the water, offering ocean views from nearly every vantage point, and wandering through the sculpture park is a picturesque, zen way to stretch your legs after a tasting or to work up an appetite before lunch. With over 70 sculptures, the sheer scope of the park is impressive, and each work of art features a plaque explaining its significance. 

Peninsula Hot Springs

• 140 Springs Lane, Fingal, VIC 3939

If Alba is part of the new guard out on the peninsula, this flagship hot springs is part of the original. Less upscale but just as relaxing, Peninsula Hot Springs is a much larger alternative to Alba that offers visitors access to over 120 geothermal pools of all temperatures and temperaments. The springs are split into an adults-only section and a family-friendly area, with the option for adults to move between the two for an even more immersive experience. A full spa with an extensive menu of services is available, along with a restaurant and even accommodations where guests can glamp or rent eco lodges that come with their own private hot springs or mineral baths. An even bigger perk, hot springs entry comes complimentary with any rental. Bookable experiences within the hot springs are worth considering, like a guided contrast therapy experience that combines cold plunging with sauna sessions, which helps newcomers unlock the purpose of this ancient therapeutic practice. 

In Australia, wine bars aren’t just restaurants, nor are they simply stuffy shops full of high-end bottles with just a cheese plate on the menu. 

For Gus Gluck, director of business development for Neighbourhood Wine, one of the most beloved wine bars in Melbourne (as well as its two sister venues, Old Palm Liquor, Bahama Gold), service is the primary element that sets wine bars apart. “Ideally, if it’s a real wine bar, it will be a bit louder, and things will be a bit more casual,” he explains from his perch on a stool at Old Palm Liquor, where we tasted through a few local bottles while chatting. “A great wine bar has to do with how it feels, or the service, and then it has to come down to the wine. It’s not always even the list; it’s also about the glassware, how it’s served, the temperatures, how it’s opened—that’s all critical.”

Gluck, a U.K. transplant who has now lived and worked in Australia for the last decade or so, was drawn to Victoria by the vibrant wine scene. “Victoria doesn’t have the biggest wine industry yet,” he says. “It’s still emerging, and there’s such diversity because there’s no real house style. Yes, there’s a lot of pinot and chardonnay, but Victoria is also amazing because of its future for a lighter style syrah that’s very aromatic and evocative due to a chemical called rotundone that’s found in the soil in certain areas.”

So if Victoria’s wine industry is still in its early stages, why is Melbourne replete with so many excellent spots to drink wine and have a snack? Dan Cole, owner of another local wine bar, The Moon, thinks the proximity to several excellent wine regions, such as Yarra Valley, Gippsland, King Valley and the Mornington Peninsula, might have something to do with it. “We’re geographically close to so many amazing wine regions that we get to showcase incredible wines from small, independent winemakers doing their thing,” Cole says. “Even some of our winemakers have incredibly old vines—50, 60, 70-year-old vines that are producing such amazing fruit. The diversity of the wine bars in Melbourne is an example of the great winemakers of the area in Victoria.”

If you’re visiting Melbourne in the near future and searching for a spot to soak up the great wine culture, look no further. Below is a list of the best spots in the city, scattered among the central CBD where visitors congregate, as well as cool-kid local neighborhoods like Fitzroy, Carlton and Collingwood.

Embla

• 122 Russell St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

Located right in the heart of the CBD, this wine bar is the perfect first stop for a visitor who wants to get a taste of the local scene. Chef and owner Dave Verheul is known for his fire-grilled cooking style, which is enough to draw diners here on its own, but more recently, he’s also begun making his own vermouth and amaro under Saison Aperitifs. A smattering of those aperitifs are on offer at the bar, which initially opened back in 2016. Wine by the glass is always a draw, as is an eclectic, miles-deep bottle list from co-owner Christian McCabe, which is organized with playful headings that actually make sense: “crispy and salty whites,” and “elegant and perfumed.” Across 200 bottles, expect a good mix of classic European picks, Australian standouts, and plenty of natural picks. There’s also a bevy of mixed drinks and spirits, NA offerings, and beers to keep the bar approachable for all drinkers.

Neighbourhood Wine

• 1 Reid St, Fitzroy North VIC 3068, Australia

Opened way back in 2013, Neighbourhood Wine is the quickest answer most locals give when asked about the best wine bar in the city. Seasonal produce is at the heart of chef Almay Jordaan’s menu; she started the bar with her husband, Simon Denman, an international sommelier in London who returned home to Australia and now also makes wine himself. With a list spanning over 1,000 bottles and a huge number of local wines in the mix, this is the place to really get a taste of Victorian terroir. The substantial wine list leans European, with plenty of old-world classics, and especially favors Jura and lo-fi approaches. Added bonus: the building that houses the bar was formerly an illegal casino and still has a rather alluring air about it. Gluck suggests setting up in front of the fireplace with a chilled red, but there are also outdoor tables, bar stools, and three spacious rooms for groups to grab a table, sit, sip and chat.

Carlton Wine Room

• 172-174 Faraday St, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia

Another Melbourne institution, Carlton Wine Room was top of Gluck’s list when it came to recommending places to drink—that is, aside from the ones he helps run. Founded by Travis Howe and Andy Joy, the influential venue opened in 2018 on a bustling corner in Carlton and serves guests across three separate levels. There’s a full food menu here, but it’s all designed to pair with the wine, which runs the gamut from a minimal-intervention skin-contact Victorian orange wine like Trutta’s ‘Skinsy’ Pinot Gris (made by the bartender here), to international classics from all over the world. Since you’re here, go local—these wines might not be world-famous (at least not yet), but they deserve to be.

City Wine Shop

• 159 Spring St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

As one bartender told me, most members of the wine community working in Melbourne today either had a stint at City Wine Shop, or learned to drink here. A veritable institution, this sprawling maze of venues in downtown Melbourne’s theater district (referred to locally as the CBD, or Central Business District) is cozy and historic all at once. Linger at a table on the open-air patio and watch the theatergoers pass by, duck into the tiny bar crammed into the bottle shop side of the space, or go for table service in The European, a buzzy cafe next door. All areas share access to the same significant list, which has well over 1,000 bottles and favors old-world selections. Still, you can get a nice glass of local grenache or syrah here, and the knowledgeable bartenders will let you know which ones are worth it.

Marion

• 53 Gertrude St, Fitzroy VIC 3065, Australia

Superstar chef and entrepreneur Andrew McConnell is at the helm of a large number of the best venues in Melbourne—and fair warning that three made this list. (Arguably, several more could have.) Marion was the first one I visited; it’s located in Fitzroy, an ultra-hip suburb just outside the city center that’s often referred to as “the Brooklyn of Melbourne.” The chef’s selection set menu will run you just under $100 and is well worth the price, as tuna crudo, heirloom tomatoes and mussels all pair beautifully with Victorian savagnin or Yarra Valley chardonnay. Though it opened back in 2015, the venue won an award from a local wine publication, Young Gun of Wine, as recently as 2023, proving it’s only gotten better with age.

Clover

• 193 Swan St, Richmond 3121, Australia

Although it’s a little out of the way over in Richmond, Clover is absolutely worth the trip. Owned by the powerhouse duo of Lyndon Kubis, who runs several other wine bars in the city, and chef Charley Snadden-Wilson, this one is a neighborhood haunt that has earned a set of recurring regulars for a reason. Opened in the wake of the pandemic in November of 2022, the concept was originally built off Snadden-Wilson’s pop-up residences at Kubis’ former spot, The Moon (more on that later). Now thriving in an out-of-the-way corner of the city—at least for most Melbourne visitors—don’t miss trying something fire-cooked from the kitchen along with a well-curated list of bottles from France, Italy and Australia that lean natural. The roast cabbage with savory butter is versatile enough to pair with a half glass of 2025 skin-contact Vermentino via Murray Darling in Victoria, or a dram of the William Downie 2025 Cathedral pinot noir out of Gippsland. There’s plenty of older vintages in the cellar, too, and the incredibly friendly staff will happily point out their favorites.

Bar Bellamy

• 164 Rathdowne St, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia

If your party is split between those who crave a great glass of wine and those who want a superb martini, Bar Bellamy is the answer. Recommended to me by so many bartenders and sommeliers that I began to understand its role as a bartender’s hangout, this bar is a great place to accidentally rub shoulders with Melbourne’s drink industry glitterati. Regardless of who is there, the tiny indoor bar, bevy of outdoor and indoor tables, and separate room for larger groups mean there’s space for all kinds of drinkers. A glass of icy blanc de blanc by Carousal out of Gippsland kicked off my night, while a stiff dirty martini made with sherry, preserved lemon and dry gin from the Melbourne Gin Company turned me onto the local stuff for good. The wine list may look small here, but if you don’t see what you’re looking for, just ask the staff and they’ll head into the back to hunt down a bottle that’s similar to your request.

Gimlet

• 33 Russell St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

There’s no world where a true wine lover visiting Melbourne doesn’t stop in at Gimlet. More than a wine bar and more than a restaurant, Gimlet is an icon in the making. Opened by Andrew McConnell in 2020, it’s become one of the city’s most acclaimed dining and drinking destinations. Set in the historic Cavendish House, a beautiful 1920s landmark that’s a protected piece of Australian heritage, service here unfolds with spectacle and delight. There are plenty of booths for couples and groups lining the edges of the room, as well as larger tables toward the middle, and a central cocktail bar that’s ideal for walk-ins and casual drinking. Starting at 10 p.m. on weekends, they offer a supper menu, when a more laid-back service begins. This is the time to ask the sommeliers about what wines by the glass to pair with their superb late-night burger, or dive into a bottle with friends. Though a glass is pricey at $49 AUD (about $35 USD), the 2024 Elanto chardonnay from the Mornington Peninsula is the best white I had while in Australia, and for red lovers, the RP by Farr 2022 Pinot Noir is a must. If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, by all means get one here, as the bartending technique is the finest in the city. The clientele is wonderful, too—don’t be surprised if a casual bar conversation with a stranger turns into an invitation to come over for dinner the next night.

Sunhands

• 169 Elgin Street, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia

One of the various spots in the city that opens early in the morning with excellent coffee and pastries, then slowly transitions into savory snacks and wine, Sunhands is a go-to for lounging in Carlton. Truly an all-day experience, I recommend running by in the morning for a cardamom bun and a piccolo, and picking up a bottle of wine or two for afternoon imbibing at your leisure. If the morning is already spoken for, return in the early evening and grab a bistro table outdoors, where snacks and wine galore are on hand. This is the kind of spot that will make you fall in love with a city, and where locals gather to talk about their hopes and dreams into the wee hours of the night. It opened in 2023 and became a neighborhood staple almost immediately thanks to its excellent location and lively atmosphere.

Old Palm Liquor

• 133B Lygon St, Brunswick East VIC 3057, Australia

Old Palm Liquor is the second offering from hospitality duo Simon Denman and Almay Jordaan, who already had a hit with Neighbourhood Wine in North Fitzroy, but this venue might actually end up eclipsing its older sibling. With more of a South African bent in the kitchen and a lively, loud atmosphere—complete with an elaborate vinyl setup where classic records are regularly in rotation—the vibes are immaculate. Add a 1,500-plus bottle list, rotating by-the-glass pours, and service that’s incredibly friendly and open, and you have a fantastic place to sit and chill, whether alone or with friends. A wagyu striploin with berbere butter and a glass of 2022 Syrah from Hochkirch in western Victoria rivaled my best meal in Melbourne. Fun fact: the venue was formerly the owners’ home, which they converted into a wine bar in 2019 to share the space with the city—quite the generous renovation.

Bijou Bottle Store

• 194 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

If the floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves at Bijou remind you of a Beauty and the Beast-style library, you’re not alone. This tiny gem of a bottle store, which opened in 2020, is outfitted with just a handful of tall bistro tables where guests can sit and drink a bottle they just bought, or request a glass or two of something off the ever-changing by-the-glass pours. It’s a cozy, casual room with a few snacks and a lively atmosphere, but definitely not a restaurant or your typical wine bar. While customers popping in for takeaway bottles is quite common, there’s usually a handful of guests who opt to pay corkage and drink a bottle right there on the spot. The small number of tables means people can be in and out rather quickly, but if you choose to stay and linger, keep in mind that spirits and fine or rare wines are also available.

Bar Lourinhã

• 37 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

An entirely Iberian-focused hideaway in the CBD, Bar Lourinhã is an ode to all things Portuguese and Spanish, and the theme is pulled off with rather extraordinary style. Owners Matt McConnell and Jo Gamvros decorated the bar with mementos and tchotchkes from their own travels to the region, and have put pretty much only wines from these areas on the list, as well. The result is a very idiosyncratic, nostalgic spot that feels decidedly European, but lacks any accompanying pretension. Since opening in 2006, it’s become an institution that’s so beloved it expanded into a museum pop-up at the National Gallery of Victoria a few years back. Their pintxos and seasonal snacks, like banderillas and empanadillas, are all Spanish-influenced, and pair beautifully with the wine selections. Matt McConnell, younger brother to Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell, seems to have inherited a fair bit of the familial culinary talent. Finally, sherry lovers will be thrilled with the robust selections.

The Moon

• 28A Stanley St, Collingwood 3066, Australia

Dan Cole only recently took over ownership of Collingwood wine bar The Moon, and he’s just as much a fan of it as the steady stream of locals who cite it as a favorite. The moody, dimly lit interior is romantic and understated in all the right ways, and Cole regularly gets couples coming in to celebrate everything from first dates to anniversaries. If you’re in the mood for love, there’s no better place to celebrate; but if you’re a solo type who likes to hang out at the bar with a glass of wine and a book, this fits the bill, too. Sunlit wine bars with high ceilings and spacious rooms are wonderful, but this cave-like spot is a welcome departure for more intimate conversations. Minimal intervention wine is a focus here, with about 400 bottles in the shop, and 20 or so by-the-glass pours. Try some Honky Chateau Gewurztraminer from the Yarra Valley, a side project from Chris Ryan, one of Melbourne’s best sommeliers.

Vinesmith

• 1 Flinders Lane, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

In Melbourne, the lingo is slightly different—what Americans would refer to as a “tasting room” is generally called a “cellar door.” In both cases, it’s a space where guests who want to check out the offerings of a specific winemaker or vineyard can show up and experience a flight of wines with nice context from the staff. So first and foremost, Vinesmith is a cellar door for Blue Pyrenees, Glenlofty and Decameron Station vineyards, and it’s actually one of only a few cellar doors located in the city. But as these things go, it’s also morphed into a bistro, wine bar, and bottle shop, even if bottles on offer are primarily from their own labels. The space is packed with fans of the vineyards, serious wine drinkers, and those drawn to the beautiful wood-paneled venue in a central location. But if you stop in, don’t leave without trying the 2023 Blue Pyrenees Estate Midnight Cuvee, a traditional method sparkling that lingers on the palate with fine bubbles and notes of lemon and cream. If you get the chance to chat with restaurant manager Leo Trupin, he’ll guide you through the voluminous offerings from the three estates with ease.

Cumulus Inc.

• 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, VIC 3000, Australia

With an emphasis on locally-sourced food and an all-day menu, the wine pairings at Cumulus Inc. quickly became part of the fabric of this downtown venue. Serving as a cellar door for the historic Victorian estate, Craiglee, this bar and restaurant from Andrew McConnell (yes, another one) has been influencing the Melbourne scene since it debuted in 2008. Another place where the set menu is more of a must-order than a suggestion, watching the unparalleled technique from their team of expert chefs is a treat for diners who sit at the bar looking into the open kitchen. Everything from South Australia, to Tasmania, to Victorian classics is available by the glass, half bottle, and bottle, and there’s a host of old-world options to choose from if the mood strikes.

It’s not a stretch to say the future of winemaking as we know it relies on the way growers choose to farm their vines today. Look beyond cookie-cutter labels like “organic” or simple avoidance of pesticides and instead focus on deeper changes, like holistic farming practices that seek to restore soil health by using cover crops, no-till farming, rotational grazing and composting. Many producers are also adopting techniques that reduce their overall carbon footprint, such as switching to lightweight bottles, implementing solar power to avoid using fossil fuels, and prioritizing extensive water recycling. 

Winemakers who practice regenerative farming aren’t just making better wine; they’re doing their part to preserve the planet for future generations. At Bouchaine Vineyards in Carneros, for example, winemaker Chris Kajani knows the estate’s close proximity to San Francisco has the ability to impact the city’s climate. 

“At Bouchaine Vineyards, we’re a fully estate property and live and breathe grapes and wine, but also live on this dirt, breathe this air, and drink this water,” she says. “We’ve been here for more than 40 years, right next to the San Francisco Bay, and anything we do in our vineyards can affect the natural ecosystem. We’re committed to sustainable and fish-friendly farming, water conservation, using beneficial insects and sheep to mow in the vineyard, and a focus on green vineyard and winery standards.”

Seeking out small wine labels and independent producers who focus on sustainability is one way to help push the rest of the industry toward these methods. Because as much as the wine world has recently bent toward eco-friendly standards, there’s still a considerable amount of work to be done. Corporate winemaking is notorious for using additives and pesticides, and green-washing runs rampant, meaning labels pretend to be eco-conscious while hiding their harmful practices behind buzzwords. 

On the other end of the spectrum, some labels are devoted to rewilding their land. Will Henry, co-owner and winemaker at Lumen Wines in Santa Barbara County, goes above and beyond industry standards. “At Lumen, it starts with farming, and sustainably-farmed doesn’t go nearly far enough to describe what we do,” he says. “We’re certified organic, but also use regenerative practices. The ultimate goal of which is long-term soil health. We don’t use any chemical sprays and have to do much of the work by hand.”

Lumen also cares for the animals that graze the vineyards and makes their own compost. “We use winery waste—skins, stems, etc.—and food waste from our restaurant. There’s almost no waste that our vineyard or winery produces; almost everything is recycled back into the system,” he explains.

California makes up 85 percent of American wine production, and Oregon and Washington aren’t far behind. A great number of West Coast producers, in particular, have taken steps to implement sustainable practices as the regions here grow in stature. Ahead of Earth Day, here’s a selection of bottles from winemakers who are prioritizing the health of the planet while also making fantastic wine in the process. 

2024 Frank Family Carneros Chardonnay

• Napa Valley, California

A longtime Napa Valley favorite, this winery is run on 100 percent renewable energy from local wind and solar power while practicing what they call “earth-to-bottle stewardship.” Founders Rich and Leslie Frank have maintained sustainability practices across the board, employing regenerative methods like low- and no-till farming, cover cropping, compost application, and animal integration. It’s easy to see why their tagline has long been “our roots are green.” To make it all official, their vineyards are certified sustainable by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Association and Napa Green. 

All that lays the foundation for some truly remarkable cool-climate chardonnay, with fruit taken from estate sites like their own Lewis Vineyard and historic Winery Lake Vineyard. Lemon and guava are the top notes on the 2024 vintage, which is particularly reflective of the Carneros region. Currently, the winery is also partnering with 4ocean through its “Frank for a Cause” philanthropy, donating a portion of proceeds from each bottle sold to help remove plastic litter from the ocean through July 2026.

$40, shop now

McCollum Heritage 91 2022 Pinot Noir

• Willamette Valley, Oregon

A former player for the Portland Trail Blazers, CJ McCollum was introduced to the world of wine by his wife, Elise. Proximity to the Willamette Valley during his tenure on the Blazers deepened his appreciation, and in 2020, the couple launched their wine brand, McCollum Heritage 91, with an inaugural 2018 pinot noir made in partnership with Adelsheim. Since then, the McCollums acquired 318 acres in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA and planted seven acres to vines, with plans to keep expanding. In the process, sustainability has been at the forefront of their estate. 

Their wines are independently appraised by LIVE Certified, a nonprofit organization that annually inspects for sustainability practices, and they’ve also been deemed salmon-safe, meaning water management doesn’t harm the local fish habitats. McCollum himself has also joined LIVE’s board of directors, investing time and energy in the organization. Their 2022 Pinot Noir is a continuation of that first release; it’s their sixth pinot noir vintage so far, along with some chardonnays and rosé. They’ve continued to source fruit from Adelsheim for a pinot noir that’s silky on the palate and defined by notes of cocoa, lavender and black cherry.

$55, shop now

Pali Wine Co. 2025 ‘Harvest Moon’ White Wine Blend

• Santa Barbara, California

Founded in 2005 by Tim and Judy Perr, Pali Wine Co. is named after the couple’s hometown of Pacific Palisades, but their own 50-acre vineyard is firmly rooted in the Sta. Rita Hills. Certified sustainable while also advancing regenerative farming practices, the vineyard maintains cover crops, composts grape pomace, and promotes beneficial insects to eliminate herbicide use. Along with their own fruit, the label only sources grapes from Central Coast growers who have similarly embraced organic and regenerative farming and use sustainable and biodynamic practices. 

Known for cool-climate wines like pinot noir and chardonnay, plus rare varietals like dornfelder, gamay, syrah and chenin blanc, they launched a sister label, Neighborhood, in 2019 to focus exclusively on natural winemaking practices. Both labels are available at tasting rooms across Southern California in Santa Barbara, San Diego, Anaheim and Lompoc, so there’s something for everyone. Lightweight glass bottles and recyclable, compostable packaging are used to reduce shipping waste and emissions and minimize their ecological footprint. Additionally, a “wine on tap” program saves thousands of bottles annually and offers an energy-efficient alternative for restaurants and bars that carry their wine locally. 

Vinho Verde fans will love the Harvest Moon white blend, a crisp, refreshing estate vintage that’s 50 percent pinot noir and 50 percent chardonnay. A faint natural spritz and notes of jasmine, pear and green apple make this a reliable pick for nearly any palate.

$35, shop now

The Walls 2024 Cruel Summer Rosé Pouch

• Walla Walla, Washington

The Walls Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington, follows organic farming practices and relies on solar power for its sustainably grown grapes in the Columbia Valley. And before balking at the price for their rosé, keep in mind this format is equivalent to four standard bottles of wine (!) and is the perfect example of how sustainability takes on all different shapes. Plenty of winemakers are experimenting with alternatives to bottles, but this pouch, affectionately called the “bagnum,” a tongue-in-cheek reference to large-format magnums, is one of the most inventive (and sustainable) on the market. 

Since it replaces multiple bottles, the packaging lowers the brand’s overall carbon emissions by a whopping 80 percent comparatively. Around 8 to 10 percent of the winery’s overall production uses alt packaging, including kegged wine in partnership with local restaurants. White peach and grapefruit jump out when pouring a glass of the Cruel Summer Rosé, which is made entirely from estate-grown grenache and mourvèdre. This is a fitting picnic wine, and it’s also great for heading to the beach. Go green and crush some rosé directly out of this convenient pouch while unwittingly getting hooked on the Pacific Northwest’s next big wine region.

$99, shop now

2023 Bouchaine Estate Pinot Noir

• Napa Valley, California

The health of local fish might seem completely unrelated to sustainability efforts in winemaking, but in reality, the connection runs deep. Vineyards use and reuse a whole lot of water, so any runoff that makes its way into the soil can have long-term consequences for local species. Long recognized as one of the leaders for sustainability in the region, Bouchaine was the first Fish Friendly Certified vineyard in Napa Valley. Their water management practices are designed to keep the surrounding groundwater and aquatic habitats safe and livable for local fish. 

The winery has also been recognized with a Napa Green Certification, which highlights regenerative vineyards. With this kind of farming in place, winemaker Chris Kajani is well-positioned for success. For the brand’s estate pinot noir, she carefully selects fruit from each vineyard block across the 100-acre property. Encompassing nine different clones, the blocks are fermented and aged separately before they’re blended into a vibrant, beautiful wine that pairs incredibly well with food. The estate pinot noir represents the best, most expressive wine from the Carneros region. Cola, nutmeg and smooth tannins are at the forefront in the 2023 vintage.

$55, shop now

Hundred Suns Lone Feather Pinot Noir 2024

• McMinnville, Oregon

Hundred Suns is a small, family-run label based in McMinnville, Oregon, helmed by partners Grant Coulter and Renée Saint-Amour. It’s known for thoughtful sourcing from local growers with a history in the region who frequently use dry farming and organic practices. Coulter spent the bulk of his career as an assistant and then head winemaker at the esteemed Beaux Frères for a decade, followed by a stint at Flâneur before shifting his focus to the Hundred Suns. Working completely independently, the couple has built up a massive reputation for such a tiny label, and are regularly entrusted with excellent, rare grapes in Willamette Valley to make their wines. 

Such is the case with their Lone Feather Pinot Noir, which is made from fruit sourced from an old-vine, own-rooted site now organically farmed and carefully preserved by Warren and Jennifer Feather. The old Pommard and Wädenswil vines were planted back in 1989 and are among fewer than 100 acres of their kind still standing and untouched by the phylloxera pest. “This is a really special site and [makes] very distinct wines,” Coulter said of the vineyard. The 2024 season was about as good a growing season as winemakers can get, and the resulting wine balances dark berry and licorice notes with acidity and candied fruit.

$60, shop now

2023 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

• Santa Ynez Valley, California

Alma Rosa is a sprawling 600-acre estate that has just under 50 acres of planted vineyards, leaving the rest of the land teeming with native wildlife and plant species. The natural setting is not just a boon for visiting guests; the surrounding wilderness also enhances the terroir and preserves the integrity of the land. Those who want to get a look at the beauty of the estate can embark on the guided Caracol hike (don’t worry, it’s only one mile), which culminates in a private tasting at the historic Ranch House with delicacies like caviar and locally sourced meats and cheeses. Get a taste of just how the terroir at Alma Rosa shines through with their 2023 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, which is sourced almost entirely from their El Jabali vineyard. Tart and black cherry notes, plus black tea, lead to an expressive finish.

$50, shop now

Grgich Hills Estate 2023 Napa Valley Chardonnay

• Napa Valley, California

Founded by the legendary Mike Grgich, who came to prominence as the winemaker who took first place with a Napa chardonnay at the Judgment of Paris, this Napa estate is a regenerative farming pioneer. Going organic in 2000, they began implementing biodynamic and regenerative farming practices ahead of the curve, and were early adopters of what are now standardized sustainable techniques. Currently, the estate has achieved a carbon-negative farming practice, minimizing its footprint through solar energy, water conservation, and waste reduction. Grgich is 100 percent certified regenerative organic across all five vineyards, and the outstanding quality of their wine showcases just how much these practices impact the fruit. While their 2023 Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay hasn’t gone up against any white Burgundy in a formal competition, the subtle notes of ginger, white pepper and cardamom are exquisite. This chardonnay doesn’t undergo full malolactic fermentation, keeping it naturally acidic and making it a good option for those who generally prefer sharper, crisper whites. 

$48, shop now

Evening Land 2024 Seven Springs Pinot Noir

• Willamette Valley, Oregon

Evening Land Vineyards is a biodynamic winery that’s bee-friendly and has been dry-farmed since inception. Here, sheep grazing and a 165-acre forest on the property offer built-in support. Verified carbon neutral, thanks in part to the forest’s role as a carbon sink, they’re also LIVE certified and salmon-safe, and have worked to eliminate copper and glyphosate (a herbicide) from their farming practices. Based in the Eola-Amity Hills, these pinot noir wines show the influence of the ocean winds flowing through a break in the Coast Range mountains called the Van Duzer Corridor. The coastal wind imparts a complex, energetic character that makes wine produced from grapes grown in the region immediately distinguishable. Their 2024 vintage shows red plum fruit and the signature elegance that’s made Oregon pinot a global phenomenon. Great for any pinot noir lover, anyone who has a preference for quintessential Oregon reds, or drinkers with old-world palates who will be won over by the best of the new world.

$45, shop now

2023 Demetria Estate North Slope Syrah

• Santa Ynez Valley, California

The typical response when driving through the final gate at Demetria Estate is to gasp—the rolling green hills are so beautiful they inspire a physical response. The family-owned estate has carefully respected the living ecosystem, using classical biodynamic practices like cover crops, composting and sheep grazing to build soil health. Similarly, Ryan Roark’s winemaking is minimal intervention, mostly prioritizing Rhône and Burgundy varietal wines. Syrah, one of the foremost Rhône varietals, is the dominant grape grown on the land. Each year, the Demetria Estate North Slope Syrah is a blend of all the highest-quality vineyard blocks on the 213-acre estate. A culmination of the best of this vineyard, the 2023 vintage is a bold, savory wine reminiscent of black pepper and dark chocolate. Powerful and restrained, it showcases the best of a still-emerging region in California’s Santa Ynez Valley.

$55, shop now

Erath 2023 Willakia Pinot Noir

• Willamette Valley, Oregon

One of the oldest wineries in Willamette Valley, Erath was founded back in 1968 as a 49-acre plot in the Chehalem Mountains and developed a reputation as a world-class producer in the region. As one of the brands that helped put Oregon on the map, Erath is also a certified B Corporation, committed to treating employees with as much respect as it does its land and the fruit it produces. Their pinot noir is a standout here, with production now helmed by winemaker Leah Adint, and the 2023 Willakia Pinot Noir is full of lovely cherry notes with layers of Provencal herbs and dark chocolate.

$43, shop now

Lumen 2022 The Mad King Pinot Noir

• Santa Maria Valley, California

Co-owner Will Henry, who was originally mentored by Lane Tanner, one of the first independent female winemakers in Santa Barbara County, has made sustainability a top priority at Lumen. Low-intervention winemaking is the main event at this winery, which takes its name from the Latin word for “light.” The title traces back to a quote attributed to Galileo: “Wine is sunlight, held together by water.” 

Lumen crafts a range of sulfite-free wines produced only from fruit grown in certified sustainable, organic, biodynamic, or regenerative vineyards. Part of the 1% For the Planet organization, Lumen donates 1 percent of all sales (not just profits) to environmental causes. Partially inspired to start the business by his experience with pinot noir grown in Santa Barbara, Lumen now farms the Wild King vineyard using non-pruning techniques that allow the fruit to follow natural growing patterns. The resulting wine is as wild and mad as the name suggests, lovingly called “semi feral” by Wine Enthusiast. It’s a California pinot noir for the ages, and will likely taste just as regal for years to come.

$75, shop now

Rex Hill 2022 Willamette Valley Seven Soils Chardonnay

• Willamette Valley, Oregon

Hand-harvesting their grapes in order to carefully select the best clusters is just one of many techniques that have made Rex Hill a frontrunner in the Oregon winemaking scene. B Corp-certified with a commitment to their employees, the environment, and, of course, the wine, this legacy vineyard has established itself as an industry leader in the Willamette Valley. Organically and biodynamically farmed, their distinctive pinot noirs are known for their elegance, but their chardonnay is quickly becoming just as coveted. The 2022 Willamette Valley Seven Soils Chardonnay is the perfect example, as lemon curd and a deep minerality mingle to present a fine-tuned white that’s textured and complex but not overbearing.

$35, shop now

But other contenders have emerged over the years, as well. The Big Island, now arguably in its most impressive phase as a destination, is always welcoming to visitors who appreciate the locale’s coastal beauty and want to dive deeper into island culture. In tandem, the fine dining scene, complete with fantastic wine programs, has developed substantially, and considerable fitness offerings that work with the weather and ocean setting are another draw. Here’s our guide to a few of the best places to stay that are sure to inspire return visits.

Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort

• 72-300 Maheawalu Drive, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740

One of the original resorts on the island, this low-key oasis was an iconic “if you know, you know” stay on Big Island until a tsunami hit in 2011 and destroyed the property. Painstakingly restored and reopened in 2023 by Rosewood, it’s now an ultra-luxe haven that honors the spirit of the 60s-era trailblazer. Built on the grounds of a historic fishing village and run entirely on solar power, the current owners have gone above and beyond to make the resort sustainability-focused. Additional initiatives to reduce the resort’s overall footprint include a private power microgrid with 8,000 solar panels, environmental stewardship to protect endangered species, plus reverse osmosis treatment to clean and reuse wastewater.

Those who value privacy will love the personal space afforded by the standalone, thatched-hut guest rooms, or “hales,” while those who value aesthetics will be delighted by the all-wood interiors and black-stone soaking tubs that echo the lava-rock landscape. 

Much of the wood used in rebuilding the 150-room hotel was salvaged from the wreckage of the previous iteration, and oversized lanais, ocean sports, and a swimming cove keep the saltwater front and center. Farther back from the water, a serene spa set among the lava fields is complete with a cold plunge, sauna and steam room available to all guests, with or without a scheduled treatment. Over-the-top culinary offerings at Moana and paniolo-inspired fare at Kahuwai Cookhouse are other highlights, especially when paired with wine offerings that might just be the best in the state. Renowned Healdsburg winemaker Jesse Katz and Michelin-rated chef Dustin Valette of The Matheson and Valette are among the partners who have joined the hotel for special events.

Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

• 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Drive, Kohala Coast, Hawaii 96743

The first resort ever built on the Big Island, Mauna Kea has developed a reputation as one of the most legendary hotels in the world. The hotel has achieved a cultish following, with many multi-generational guests who not only return year after year, but pass the ritual down to their families. First imagined by Laurance S. Rockefeller, who was determined to build a resort that was both luxurious and eco-conscious, the hotel joined Marriott’s Autograph Collection in 2015, becoming the first Hawaii hotel to do so. Currently in the midst of a $200 million renovation, all refreshed guest rooms and suites, a brand-new adults-only infinity lap pool and a state-of-the-art fitness center have brought it into the 21st century. 

But as a member of the Historic Hotels of America, its mid-century modern architecture and rich heritage remain untouched. Built on the crescent-shaped beach of Kaunaoa Bay, the white sandy expanse is so spectacular it’s what drew Rockefeller to the property in the first place. Especially on an island where rocky outcroppings are the norm, this pristine beach is a boon for guests. A large, circular family pool with oceanfront views and a sizable beach club set up on the sand are great for swimming and sunbathing. In the evening, don’t miss a fantastic meal at Manta; it’s Hawaiian fine dining with award-winning wine pairings—the scallop ravioli is an island favorite. Bring a glass back up to your room and watch the waves roll in under the moonlight from one of two balconies, or from a deep soaking tub that faces the ocean.

Fairmont Orchid

• 1 N Kaniku Drive, Waimea, Hawaii 96743

There’s so much to love at Fairmont Orchid, it’s hard to know where to start. Kick off your stay with a morning visit to their “spa without walls,” where outdoor oceanfront treatment rooms are the most idyllic place to get a massage. Receive your bodywork with the sound of the waves, or at hales in the gardens where waterfalls soundtrack fish swimming by under glass panels in the floor. The best part? There’s still a traditional sauna and steam room waiting once you’re back inside. During the afternoon, head to the sandy bay to rent a kayak, snorkeling gear, or stand-up paddleboard, and get a closer look at the coral reef restoration project the hotel has helped spearhead. 

Sunset dinners at Brown’s Beach House are pure Instagram fodder, and every diner in the place will jump up right when golden hour hits to get the signature shot. A live performer playing traditional Hawaiian music makes it an even more soothing setting, and the ti leaf-wrapped kanpachi is an authentic and delicious dish, made with all local ingredients. Visit the enormous 10,000-square-foot pool deck any time of the day; it’s open 24 hours and includes an adults-only area alongside plenty of room for families. Elsewhere, the koi ponds and waterfalls sprinkled throughout the grounds are ideal for relaxing and lounging on dry land. Add in all-marble bathrooms that look straight out of a magazine and 540 worn-in but cozy rooms with large, furnished lanais, and it’s easy to see why this property is consistently ranked as one of the best hotels in Hawaii.

Mauna Lani, Auberge Collection

• 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive, Waimea, Hawaii 96743

Since joining Auberge in 2018, this already beloved hotel, first established in 1983, has become one of the premier stays on the island. A $200 million renovation, rolled out in phases, has completely revamped the lobby to afford a jaw-dropping welcome experience with soaring ceilings, ocean views and light wood decor, complete with a historic outrigger canoe as a focal point. Just off the entrance, the Francis Brown Club is nearly ready to welcome guests seeking a more private experience. On the ground floor of the resort, the Hale ‘I‘ike, or “house of knowledge,” is where guests can meet with local experts to learn more about Hawaiian traditions and culture. Across the way, the only Goop store in the state offers a different kind of knowledge. 

The hotel building is positioned so that almost all rooms have an ocean view. The accommodations are located on either the sunrise or sunset side, so guests can choose what kind of light they’d like to catch from their lanais. The best part of this resort, though, might be the refurbished beach club, with lounges and hale cabanas to soak up the sun and sip on a mai tai, margarita or even a glass of sancerre. Two saline pools, one for adults and one for kids, plus a sandy-bottomed pool for toddlers, make up a spacious swimming area with ocean views, all adjoining the restaurants for easy service. Ha Bar is a great spot for more drinks and casual fare, and make sure to try both HāLani’s Mediterranean dinner menu and the pan-Asian and Hawaiian plates at CanoeHouse. Both restaurants are teeming with locals, which gives you a sense of just how great they are.

Four Seasons Hualalai

• 72-100 Ka’upulehu Drive, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740

With a country club feel and a focus on fitness, the Four Seasons Hualalai’s extensive workout facilities, designed in partnership with celebrity trainer Harley Pasternak, are so comprehensive they’re literally award-winning. The Hualalai Sports Club & Wellness Center includes a 25-meter outdoor lap pool reserved exclusively for swimmers, a pilates training center, barre lessons, extensive tennis courts and golf courses, cardio machines, weight training equipment, and occasional residencies from Pasternak himself. It’s particularly appealing for visitors who want to make sure they keep up with a workout routine while on vacation. 

Before or after a tough workout, deep tissue massages at the adjoining spa are popular with guests, and a bevy of ocean sports like paddleboarding and outrigger canoeing are on offer, as well. Don’t worry if you’re less wellness-obsessed, though, because that’s not all there is to do on this expansive resort, which is outfitted with eight distinct pools and plenty of cultural programming. Signature restaurant ‘Ulu is the pinnacle of oceanfront fine dining with oysters grown on the hotel’s own oyster farm, king crab legs with miso butter, and uni or caviar add-ons that make every plate feel special. Once you’re done sweating, lounging or eating, 249 oceanfront rooms with large lanais and even larger soaking tubs are some of the most luxurious

Westin Hapuna Beach Resort

• 62-100 Kaunaʻoa Dr, Waimea, Hawaii, 96743

Those who avoid chain hotels strictly on principle should make an exception for this spectacular property. Built in 1994 by legendary developer Laurance S. Rockefeller as the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, the property shares resort amenities with its sister hotel, Mauna Kea, and is renowned for its high-end feel. An all-suites resort, it underwent a $50 million renovation before its rebrand, and its open-air, stair-step layout gives guests stunning ocean views from nearly every vantage point. An adults-only infinity pool, complete with separate jacuzzi, and a generous family pool just a few steps away from the ocean are obvious highlights. 

Aside from that, every suite on property has an ocean view, even if it’s just a glimpse, and fine dining at the  Mediterranean-themed Meridia’s is so unmissable that guests from Mauna Kea regularly take a complimentary shuttle over for dinner. With a separate wing converted to residences for long-stay guests or larger groups, enormous conference offerings for business travel, golf course access and a large fitness studio, there’s something for everyone at this versatile resort. The fact that it’s built directly on what’s regularly touted as one of the best sandy beaches on the island doesn’t hurt. Lavender aromatherapy on the bedside table, plus a glass-enclosed shower, separate soaking tub, and Brondell bidet are welcome in-room perks.

As a travel writer, I’m used to identifying the tourist-y middle of most cities and trying to fan out from there in order to uncover something more compelling. But in Cannes, I’ve been able to spend weeks and months on the ground, picking up suggestions from neighbors and wandering into out-of-the-way spots that might only be open a few days every week. That’s why I feel particularly well-equipped to give my recommendations for the best places to have a glass (or a bottle) of wine in Cannes. 

By no means a complete list, consider this a selection of ideas for moods and scenarios, and a warning to keep you away from the overpriced, lackluster tourist traps on La Croisette. These places were all selected through repeat visits and trial and error, and though few are actual wine bars, you’re usually better off in France just going to a restaurant or cafe. Let them know ahead of time you’ll only be drinking—they rarely mind at all.

Uva

• 13 Bd. de la République, 06400 Cannes, France

Uva is one of the best restaurants in Cannes. Noël Mantel, an acclaimed chef in the region, partnered with his son Étienne Mantel on this casual yet upscale spot. Named after the Latin word for grape, they’ve stocked over 500 wines in their cellar, the majority of them French, so visitors looking to imbibe are in good hands. Head to the bar early if you only want to drink; better yet, come hungry and learn firsthand that culinary skills might just be hereditary.

Café Olympe

• 47 Bd. de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes, France

Hidden atop one of the only museums directly on La Croisette, La Malmaison, this rooftop cafe just happens to boast some of the best views in Cannes. To give you a sense of the viewpoint, it’s directly on par with the oceanfront rooms and terraces of all four of the grand palace hotels. Entry is completely free—just tell the front desk at the museum you’re headed up to Olympe, and settle in for an idyllic morning or afternoon. It’s great for daytime drinking, but note that Olympe closes in the evening.

Cave et Bar à Vins Gencel

• 13 Rue de la Miséricorde, 06400 Cannes, France

A third-generation family wine cellar in a historic district of Cannes, this is also one of the few straightforward wine bars in town. Located right near Marché Forville, one of the biggest tourist draws in the city, Gencel has a totally different, serene vibe. With a wine list that’s over 50 pages long, there’s something for everyone, and attentive staff are more than happy to help you peruse. They’ve got selections from every worthy region in France, and it’s all priced very fairly. Naturally, there’s rillette, pâté, terrine and other snacks on offer if you decide to stick around and sip wine on the premises.

Okay Pizza

• 8 Av. Isola Bella, 06400 Cannes, France

While this spot technically belongs on a best restaurant list, it’s one of my absolute favorite places to drink wine. Go for a long, leisurely lunch of osso bucco, one of their fantastic pizzas, or a hearty pasta, and pair it with an extremely affordable carafe of rosé. This is a true neighborhood spot with a lively set of regulars, so prepare to be delighted by eavesdropping on locals or chatting with the extremely friendly couple who own the place. If you even attempt a conversation in French, I can almost guarantee a complimentary shot of limoncello will accompany the bill. With zero social media and no website, this place is deliciously under-the-radar.

Café Le Suquet

• 7 Rue du Pré, 06400 Cannes, France

Helmed by chef Basile Arnaud, a rare native Cannois, this mostly outdoor hotel cafe is idyllic for a glass of wine at night. Restaurants stay open late in France, especially during the summer, so going for a glass at 9 or 10 p.m. is no issue. Again, the wines are mostly French, and chosen to pair with Arnaud’s super seasonal dishes, so there’s always new by-the-glass pours. This busy quartier is bustling, even on weeknights, so the people-watching is just as fantastic as the vin.

Carlton Beach Club

• 58 Bd. de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes, France

The trick with beach club pricing? The cost of admission is basically factored into the food and beverage menus. Everything is going to cost more because you’re essentially paying for the prime oceanfront position, and every once in a while, the proximity is worth it. Make the most of an overpriced drink by heading directly to the crème de la crème, Carlton Beach Club, at golden hour. Watching the sunset over the water with a glass of bubbles in your hand? Priceless. At least the first time. If you really want to splurge, get a glass of Ruinart, the world’s oldest champagne house.

A Cassetta

• Rue St Sauveur, 06110 Le Cannet, France

Cannes is one of those cities that starts at sea level and winds continually upward back into the hills. At the tip top of this steep climb is Le Cannet, a sister city of sorts that boasts incredible ocean views and a rich art history. One of the best restaurants there, A Casetta, serves up Corsican specialties, including Corsican wines, which are rare and hard to find elsewhere. This French island, southeast of the mainland, is fiercely independent and has developed its own distinct culture. A signature veal tartare pairs well with traditional wines from the region; ask your server for guidance in navigating these unusual, hard-to-find vintages—then brag about your experience to the next wine snob you encounter.

La Table D’hôtes

• 3 Bd. de la République, 06400 Cannes, France

This is the restaurant I’m most likely to return to on a regular basis. The price point is accessible, the food is excellent, and the wine list is wide-ranging. Mostly, I come here for lunch, where a special prix fixe called “la formule” offers a two-course meal for about 20 euros. Here, the format also comes with a glass of wine, so I’ve sampled a few over my many visits and given the quality of the food and wine, I consider this restaurant the best value in Cannes. Though the lunch special tends to come with a table wine, their full wine list has great Rhône and Loire sections, with an emphasis on Provençal and Burgundy wines.

Pain Cuit au Feu de Bois

• 12 Quai Saint-Pierre, 06400 Cannes, France

Another one with zero online presence, this delightfully idiosyncratic shop is dominated by freshly baked breads, made in a specialty wood-fired oven. The baker, who is often manning the shop alongside his son, will happily share about his lifelong passion for traditionally baked bread if you prompt him even slightly. We stopped by one morning during a walk, and assured him we’d return later to buy some bread. He joked that no one ever actually comes back, and happily gifted us glasses of wine to celebrate when we really did. That’s how I discovered this harborfront bakery is stocked with his personal favorite wines, and it’s a fabulous, completely unorthodox place for a drink. Do buy a loaf if you make it in; the texture is otherworldly. Meats, cheeses and other snacks are also available.

Armani Caffè

• La Croisette, Bd. 42/43, 06400 Cannes, France

Next door to the Armani store, a tucked-away cafe is mostly a haunt for shoppers craving a cappuccino before or after patronizing the Italian designer’s shop. But it’s another secretly great place to get a great glass of wine with a full frontal view of the ocean. Taittinger bubbles or a cold glass of Sancerre are my picks here, and my boyfriend’s mom loves how dogs are welcome on their spacious patio. We often come here for morning coffee, too, because they open at 9:30 a.m., well before the beach clubs.

Racine

• 25 Bd. Sadi Carnot, 06110 Le Cannet, France

Another gem up in Le Cannet, this petite restaurant is directly across from one of the best art attractions in the city: a museum devoted entirely to the painter Pierre Bonnard. The museum is small, and a visit can be completed in about an hour, after which a crisp glass of white at Racine is an ideal next step. Decompress and discuss life, art and all the rest on their peaceful, greenery-lined patio. They’ve got over 200 wines on their menu, quite a feat for this small but mighty bistro. I’ve yet to try the food strictly due to timing issues, but it looks equally fantastic.

Bijou Plage Experimental

• 110 Bd. de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes

Approximately a 20-minute walk from the center of La Croisette, my favorite spot in the entire city is a beach club down on the southeast Pointe Croisette. Removed from the ultra-touristy middle, this off-center beach club has the same on-the-sand dining options and ocean views, just at the price point of a regular restaurant. Minus the irritating markup, sitting for a chilled red or a glass of cloudy skin-contact is once again a pleasure. All of their wines are organic, biodynamic, and natural, just another reason to love this little club.

These days, the simplest way to taste the best wine being made in the Santa Ynez Valley is to visit the former Liquid Farm tasting room way out in Lompoc, one of the farthest reaches of Santa Barbara County. There, in a cluttered, out-of-use space attached to the production facility, winemaker James Sparks just might pour you some tastes of his own label, Kings Carey wines. Lesser wines would be diminished by the makeshift room; instead, the unstructured chaos works as a foil to the precision of his winemaking. 

“Jeff doesn’t mind if I use it,” Sparks tells Observer, sheepishly gesturing at the abandoned room, referencing Liquid Farm owner Jeff Nelson. As the winemaker for both brands, Sparks spends most of his time in Lompoc, carefully honing techniques for both labels. Takeout pizza and sandwiches from local Italian standout Stica round out our unorthodox tasting, complete with a map of the sprawling Santa Ynez Valley to trace where grapes for each vintage have been sourced.

The sudden boom in wine sales during the pandemic, then bust a few years later as Gen Z apparently turned up their nose at the whole industry, sent many small labels, like Kings Carey, reeling. Sparks was forced to shut down a former tasting space in Solvang, and is still paying off new equipment in installments, but his belief in Santa Ynez’s staying power never wavers. For his own label, Sparks sources single varietals from single vineyards, constructing wines that sing with a kind of jaw-dropping clarity. 

His wines are the reason people make the trek out to Lompoc for the occasional private visit, and don’t mind going without the trappings of a traditional tasting room. A stint on the wine list at Bell’s, the sole Michelin-starred restaurant in the area, recently guided a trove of new tasters to his unassuming digs, where three wines stand above the rest. A 2023 Perry Souix Vineyards Grenache, 2022 Sparkling Pinot Noir Rose Spear and 2022 Sémillon, all of which snap the depth of what the region could be into focus. Scrappy as the brand might be, Sparks is producing unexpectedly great wine in an area that stands to become the next big wine country destination in America. 

Of course, that isn’t surprising to anyone who’s been following Sparks’ work at Liquid Farm, a cult-y, sustainable label that’s a love letter to all things chardonnay, particularly those done in an old-world style. Their White Hill Chardonnay, an ode to Chablis, is a particular stunner. Cutting his teeth for a few years at Dragonette Cellars, Sparks took the reins at Liquid Farm in 2013, started Kings Carey a year after that, and has been steadily building both as stalwarts in the valley, known as SYV in local shorthand. 

Though Kings Carey wines are my personal favorite, Sparks is just one of many winemakers who have been plugging away in this slice of California, attempting to outgrow the moniker “Santa Barbara wine country” and become a singular wine destination in their own right. Luckily, it’s working.

“As far as I’m concerned, the Santa Ynez Valley—particularly if you include its sub-avas of Sta. Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District and Happy Canyon—is producing some of the best wines in America right now,” says Ray Isle, the executive wine editor of Food & Wine and author of The World in a Wineglass. “In addition to established names like Beckmen, Stolpman and, somewhat more recently, Jonata/The Hilt, a remarkable number of ambitious new producers have arrived on the scene: Kings Carey, Terre et Sang, Donnachadh, Story of Soil, Âmevive and many others. It’s an exciting time here.”

Just north of Santa Barbara, the wine region that spawned a thousand memes via the cult film Sideways has been quietly ripening on the vine. Though the movie spurred an initial burst of tourism, especially for Solvang and Buellton, it’s easy to miss the fascinating wine scene that’s emerging here if you don’t know where to look. Napa has its cabernet, and Oregon has its pinot, but in the Santa Ynez Valley, over 60 different varietals thrive across seven distinct AVAs spanning tens of thousands of acres. 

Layers of fine dining restaurants like Bell’s, and high-quality casual spots like Stica, have helped build out the area’s hospitality scene; a host of hotels like Skyview Los Alamos and The Genevieve have contributed to an increase in tourism, too. But those trappings only follow because of the unrelenting quality of the wine.

“The key with the Santa Ynez Valley is that people here are making wines they love to drink, not what someone else told them to make,” Sparks says. “We focus on styles we really love, and that’s what creates this unique area.” At first, the lack of a flagship wine seems indicative of disorganization, but it’s just the opposite, really—the sheer variety, scope and tonality of wine produced is a boon for visitors. There’s quite literally something for everyone, along with an utter lack of pretension, reflected culturally in the people themselves and in the price points. 

The grape-growing diversity is only possible because of a rare geological feature that winemakers in the region tend to bring up within the first five minutes of a conversation—a transverse mountain range. “In this 30-mile radius, with the mountains running east and west, you get a funnel of cool air coming from the ocean,” Sparks explains. “It gives us warmth during the day and coolness during the night. Our acid is held better, and we can have big, bold wines or delicate, high-acid wines; it’s up to the winemaker. And on top of that, we’re not heavily bought out by big business like Napa is.”

From my perch on a stool in Karen Steinwachs’ kitchen in Los Olivos, big business is nowhere in sight. Instead, a neighboring herd of cows lollygagging their way down the muddy hillside above her tiny vineyard comes into view through a row of large picture windows. The contemporary kitchen is one of many updates to the original, historic 1908 house, which serves as both her home and occasional tasting room for her wine label, Seagrape. Over the weekend, a flash storm made it too muddy to hike out among the vines as planned, so we sip wine inside and gaze out at the small parcel.

The vineyard spans about an acre and is planted to six rows of sauvignon blanc and five of cabernet franc. It’s not massive, but it’s hers—and she has plans to plant the same mix in her front yard, too. Steinwachs started making wine in the valley back in 2001 after the tech company she worked for unexpectedly shut down. Sick of the grind, she decided to leave L.A., decamp up north, and has been making wine somewhere in SYV ever since. Working first as a harvest intern for “anyone would take her,” then, as the head winemaker for Buttonwood Farm & Vineyard, and finally, launching her own label, she’s settled into her role as a local veteran and a steward of the valley’s burgeoning potential. 

“The many microclimates mean we can grow all different kinds of things with excellence,” she says. “What I like is growing sauvignon blanc and cabernet franc in the Los Olivos District, and chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot noir out in the Sta. Rita Hills—and they’re only about 30 miles apart. That doesn’t happen anywhere else in the winemaking world. People ask, ‘What’s your principal varietal?’ And I’m like, ‘Yes, all of them!’ Everything from albariño to zinfandel.” Her enthusiasm for making wines of all kinds translates into some real gems, like the standout 2025 La Presa Sauvignon Blanc and her 2023 Los Olivos District Cab Franc, both steals priced at $30 and $39, respectively.

Newcomers can take comfort—there is a formal wine tasting scene here, beyond the kitchens and storage rooms that aficionados are eager to seek out. Centered mostly on the main street of Los Olivos, over 30 tasting rooms line the walkable blocks of this charming village. Victorian-style architecture and country chic boutiques abound, and the sheer number of options gives visitors a lot to work with. A great starting point is to visit Liquid Farm’s sunny, plant-filled space here, or to look out for any wines made by Blair Fox, who has been the head winemaker for Fess Parker—one of the oldest producers in the region—since 2005, and also the driving force behind his own eponymous label, launched in 2001. 

Born and raised in Santa Barbara, Fox attended UC Davis, received degrees in both viticulture (grape-growing) and oenology (winemaking), and has been putting them to use for over 20 years. “The biggest part of it for me is the grape-growing side,” Fox says. “You just can’t make great wine unless you have great grapes. Our vineyard for Blair Fox here in Los Olivos is all organic and farmed entirely by hand, and syrah in the cool climate really thrives here. You can grow syrah anywhere, super cool or super warm, but it’ll make an entirely different tasting wine.” Fox has been known to make both, but favors cool-climate syrah, and even tends to go for stem inclusion, a winemaking method that brings in peppery, savory notes.

On his 20-acre site, only three of which are farmed, Fox grows superb organic fruit and transforms it into wines that have earned him a cult following. During our interview at his Los Olivos tasting room, a couple dropped by to pick up their shipment and patiently waited for a break in our conversation just for the chance to say hi to him—Fox graciously acquiesced. That kind of personal run-in with a well-known winemaker is another element that makes SYV a fantastic destination for wine lovers; there’s a layer of human touch that hasn’t been lost as of yet. Maybe it never will be.

To taste in a more bucolic setting, head out to Demetria Estate & Vineyards, about 20 minutes outside the bounds of the town square. You’ll pass Fess Parker’s tasting room on the way, another great option to stop in, but make sure to brave the winding gravel road all the way to the end in order to spend some time at Demetria. The views of rolling hills, vines and trees make it one of the most beautiful vantage points in the area. Guests are encouraged to bring their own food in, and the frequent addition of a live musician creates a playful, laid-back environment. It was completely packed on the Friday afternoon when I dropped by to chat with winemaker Ryan Roark.

Roark takes a holistic approach to farming the 45 acres of vines that are carved out of the 200-acre estate, leaving over 150 acres for extracurriculars, like a flock of sheep that has the run of the place. There’s also plenty of room for a horseback riding experience offered through a local partner that lets guests explore the land before they come back and taste wines made from grapes in the vineyards they just saw up close. Overall, he values the connection to the land, and is dedicated to a biodynamic approach, but also appreciates the lack of pretense that defines the region. 

“A lot of the places around here take pride that the wines are approachable, financially and culturally,” Roark says. “It’s not too snooty. If you come here tomorrow, the owner is going to be pouring wine. Like most places, we encourage reservations, but you can show up out here without one, sneak in through the gate, do a wine tasting and be welcome.” The ease of entry into the tasting experiences in the valley is endlessly appealing. Couple that with the sheer scale of disparate wines visitors can taste, and it’s a fascinating destination for all levels.

And it’s no longer surprising to see wines from this region pop up on wine lists in some of the best restaurants in California and beyond. “It’s a beautiful time, and it’s a golden era because we’re a young region,” says Matt Dees, soil scientist and longtime winemaker for The Hilt, a quickly-rising estate out in Lompoc where a Howard Backen-designed tasting room with interiors by Amber Lewis is an unmissable stop for any visitor. “The ultimate charm is in our diversity. It’s a wild mix of folks and a lot of very creative, adventurous winemakers who aren’t restrained by any rules or regulations. I consider it a success whenever I see Sta. Rita Hills Syrah on any wine list, whether it’s one of mine or not. That means the world is taking notice.”

That means more hotels, restaurants, boutiques, wineries, taverns and tasting rooms than ever before—even if the oldies but goodies also benefited from the upswing. Though it was previously possible to stay in Santa Barbara and venture the extra 45 minutes into the valley for a day trip, an influx of local stays has made a visit up here much more palatable. In case you’ve never spent a night soaking in the Danish charm of Solvang, or visited the tasting room-lined streets of Los Olivos, here’s a guide to the best for an overnight visit in this picturesque wine valley. Plus, a few tips and tricks on restaurants and wineries to check out during your trip. 

Fess Parker Wine Country Inn

• 2860 Grand Ave, Los Olivos, CA 93441

One of the oldest guesthouses in the region, Fess Parker is synonymous with the rustic elegance of the Santa Ynez Valley. As movie star Fess Parker, who played a frontiersman on the silver screen, took a pioneering turn in the region, this 19-room hotel followed. Parker purchased the 700-acre parcel of Foxen Canyon Ranch in 1988, and got to work establishing a family-run winery that’s still regarded as one of the best in the region. Accordingly, their central hotel in Los Olivos opened about a decade later, in 1999, and it’s luxurious and wine-focused in a classically understated way. Commanding four-poster beds, glowing black-brick fireplaces, and bay window triptychs make even standard room offerings feel glamorous. 

Some rooms have vaulted ceilings, and most feature glass showers with intricate tile work. Five suites expand the experience with separate living rooms and deep soaking tubs. Geometric light fixtures, an oversized desk and a courtesy card for complimentary appointments at their in-town tasting rooms complete the welcome. Don’t miss the Los Olivos General Store for local olive oil and lavender a block away, or (In)Larkin for bespoke clothing from a former Armani designer. For dinner, there’s tried and true wine country fare with an Italian bent at the in-house restaurant, Nella, but the culinary darling of this small town for going on five years now is the cult-favorite Bar Le Côte. Just a two-block walk from the inn, chef Brad Mathews has concocted a seafood-focused feast with Spanish pintxos, seriously inventive classics, and a customized wine list.

The Marlo

• 293 Alisal Rd, Solvang, CA 93463

Solvang is an easy center for the valley as one of the most developed towns in the region. It’s decidedly kitschy, with an abundance of Danish architecture and old-school tourist joints. Luckily, a new wave of hospitality has sprung up over the last few years, and at the front of the pack is The Marlo. Occupying what was originally the oldest hotel in Solvang, last summer’s renovation of this 1950s-era complex included a complete overhaul of the property’s extensive gardens. Right on the edge of the busy downtown center, it’s the perfect walkable stay for those who prefer a little peace and quiet over a more central location. 

Airy suites are simple but comfortable, and this hotel is particularly amenable to dogs; doggie beds, bowls and treats are all included in your stay upon request. Book a Skal Sanctuary King for a room with its own private hidden-behind-a-bookcase speakeasy—the discovery element alone is a delight. There’s no restaurant on site, but head a few blocks over to Kanok for a newly-opened casual Thai bistro, or venture a few blocks further to the excellent, Michelin-rated Coast Range for surf and turf and great cocktails (and mocktails) in an elevated chophouse setting. If you want a memorable breakfast, don’t miss the line-out-the-door Danish pancakes at Paula’s Pancake House.

The Genevieve

• 3627 Sagunto St, Santa Ynez, CA 93460

Like Solvang, Santa Ynez is one of the few cities in this largely rural valley, though the population hovers just under 5,000. The Genevieve, which opened back in 2001 as the Santa Ynez Inn, is the premier hotel in Santa Ynez. In 2023, the hotel underwent a chic refresh and reopened as The Genevieve, though it’s still under the same ownership. Built in a Victorian style and outfitted with antique furniture, ornate wallpaper and candlestick light fixtures, the hotel is laid out as a manor house with generously sized rooms. Most feature fireplaces, a signature amenity in any wine country region, and marble bathrooms with jetted soaking tubs. Many have outdoor patios or balconies; when I visited, my room was just off the parking lot, but a well-placed fountain and hedges made the patio still feel intimate and peaceful. 

The property is full of thoughtful touches like that, which make it a personal favorite when I’m in the area. A lavish breakfast buffet with mountains of fruit, fresh-baked goods and a couple of egg-based entrées (or pancakes) is included in the room rate. There’s also a complimentary wine hour and dessert selection, all hosted in the front parlor, where another fireplace and large windows create a beautiful scene. The Victor is an on-site restaurant and bar, but I recommend heading down the block to Pony Cocktails & Kitchen. Once an espresso and breakfast bar, in the summer of 2025, founder Alberto Battaglini transformed it into one of the best restaurants in the valley. Their savory porcini donuts with fontina crema are already becoming the stuff of local legend.

The Landsby

• 1576 Mission Dr, Solvang, CA 93463

One of the best value bookings in the entire valley, The Landsby is a boutique hotel that opened in 2015 right in the middle of Solvang’s downtown corridor. Perfectly melding the traditional Scandinavian architecture with crisp, contemporary style, this 51-room hotel is an easy favorite for its wide-planked wood floors, plantation shutters to block out noise and light, and tiled marble bathrooms with soaking tubs. The best part of this hotel might be the interior courtyard, a gorgeous, hidden outdoor escape that doubles as a common area for guests, whether for opening a newly acquired bottle of wine, catching up on some work or just soaking in the sunlight peeking through the trees. 

Local artwork pays homage to the valley’s quirky neighbors; my room included several portraits of an ostrich, a nod to the nearby Ostrichland ranch, which might just be worth a look for the $7 entry fee. Personally, I’d rather venture across the street for some excellent Asian French fusion at chef Budi Kazali’s The Gathering Table; cinnamon roll French toast and breakfast fried rice had me hooked after a recent brunch visit. Early dinner at Peasants Feast (also less than a block away) was indeed a feast, with a must-try smashburger, chicken sandwich, and a couple of variations of their beloved grilled cheese sandwich. Be vigilant, though, as the dinner here ends at 6 p.m., so you’ll have to grab a table early for a chance at their mushroom tacos or fabulous shaved Brussels sprout salad.

Inn at Zaca Creek

• 1297 Jonata Park Rd, Buellton, CA 93427

After being abandoned for close to two decades, Zaca Creek reopened in 2020, marking a welcome resurrection of a key landmark in the valley. The original building, known simply as The Tavern, was formerly a steakhouse and saloon built back in 1960 by Jim Buell, who also founded the nearby town of Buellton. It permanently closed in 2001, but was purchased by a local couple, who converted half of the 250-seat restaurant into six guest rooms to form the inn. The European gothic vibe of these suite-style accommodations is all part of the appeal, and stays true to the original architectural style. Rough-hewn stone walls and floors keep the rooms cool and dark, even during the valley’s heat spikes in the summer, and hand-carved furniture, or even petrified stone pieces, are part of the rustic charm. 

The chance to sleep next door to a superb restaurant is always a boon for a visitor, and the Tavern doesn’t disappoint; it’s a destination dining experience in the best way, and the dining room was packed even during the off-season for my recent visit. Expect French classics with Santa Ynez twists, and a bar that churns out expert cocktails that feel more Los Angeles than Los Alamos. There’s also plenty of wine, if you want something to take back to the room. While it’s not for everyone, those who appreciate an old-world aesthetic and the ranch history of the area will love this one-of-a-kind stay. If you need a nearby winery visit to round out your trip, check out the stunning tasting room at Demetria, a biodynamic estate specializing in Rhône and Burgundy styles that’s just up the road, set amid rolling green hills.

Hotel Ynez

• 2644 Mission Dr, Solvang, CA 93463

The rooms at this tiny former motor lodge, artfully redone by Nomada Hotel Group, are some of my favorites in the valley. An enormous oak tree hovers over the property, giving it a secret garden feel. Spacious outdoor areas and roomy patios front every room, converted from former motel parking spots, allowing guests to further immerse themselves in nature. Fire pits, bocce ball and a small but mighty restored vintage pool round out the serene outdoor pavilion. Guest room patios all feature Bolivian hammocks and artsy wooden deck chairs. Interiors are bright white with painted beams, wooden bedframes, and corner-tiled fireplaces that really do heat the room up when needed. Room highlights include bath amenities from local business Fablerune, Italian linens, and curated in-room snacks.

There’s no restaurant on the property, but I highly recommend venturing less than five minutes up the road to Stica, a casual, to-go outpost of the wildly popular SY Kitchen, that offers pizza by the slice or by the pie, salads and truly excellent Italian sandwiches for lunch. Pick up before or after visiting excellent tasting experiences like Buttonwood Farm & Vineyard or Sunstone Winery, or grab a complimentary Linus bike and ride back into Santa Ynez to visit the local favorite haunt, Brothers Restaurant at the Red Barn. These two brothers have been running restaurants in the valley since 1996, and were forerunners of the dining scene that’s developed since. Prime rib, rack of lamb, and the scallops are all must-try dishes here.

Alisal Ranch

• 1054 Alisal Rd, Solvang, CA 93463

Alisal is the quintessential luxury dude ranch. Popular with families on week-away vacations, couples looking for a romantic escape, and foodies who are drawn to frequent weekend event programming with lauded chefs, it’s an experiential mecca for those who want a taste of the valley’s western culture. Over 10,000 acres of private land includes a working cattle ranch, a spring-fed lake for fishing, swimming and boating, 50 miles of trails to accommodate horseback riding or hiking, archery, air rifles, and axe throwing—the list goes on. It’s like a carnival for the senses just being on the property, then the rustic yet still luxe cabins top it all off. 

Pendleton accessories and vintage western artwork decorate each of the 73 guesthouses, with wood paneling, high ceilings and exposed beams in most setups. Antiques and Americana paraphernalia abound, and each room is different, so try taking a peek at other accommodations during a stay. Though this ranch could easily work as a home base for those interested in heading out to do wine tasting, there’s so much to do on-site that it’s like a world in itself. Charcuterie and wine pairing, or pizza and Pinot, are two ranch activities for the wine inclined, and a drive into Solvang to hit up a tasting room or two is less than 10 minutes away. For a break from the wild wild west, head to Final Girl to drink excellent wines in a goth-kitsch setting or venture into tiki territory at the riotous High Roller Tiki Lounge. 

Skyview

• 9150 US-101, Los Alamos, CA 93440

Los Alamos is the farthest north of the constellation of towns that make up the central Santa Ynez Valley, but it’s worth the extra trek. Perched just off the freeway atop a hill, Skyview overlooks the surrounding hills and the town’s main street in the distance. Away from it all, but within a five-minute drive to the shops and restaurants, this idyllic former motel also boasts an incredible vintage pool and expansive pool deck. If pools are a focal point of a visit, this is the hotel to book. Rooms are similar to Hotel Ynez in some ways, with colorful bathroom tile, corner fireplaces, and grand beds with fine Italian linen at the center of each room. But many of Skyview’s 33 rooms also include private back decks, a few of which are equipped with outdoor showers and their own firepits. 

Originally built in 1959, the motel was transformed by Nomada Hotel Group and opened in 2018, right around the time Bell’s, a French bistro from chefs Daisy and Greg Ryan, was picking up steam in town. Since then, Bell’s has developed more than a cult following, but a congregation of completely devoted acolytes—and it’s also the only restaurant in the valley to earn a coveted Michelin star so far. Plenty of guests staying at Skyview are there in order to visit Bell’s, but it’s worth noting that their on-site restaurant, Norman, is also a great place to eat. Sweeping views of the valley through walls of windows, a large fireplace and bright, embroidered seating are all part of the atmosphere, while a killer mac and cheese, locally-bent wine list and an array of salads with locally-sourced ingredients complete the meal.

To break through the noise, I spoke with Elaine Kim, a local expert with 20 years in the industry, and her team to get her recommendations on the best places for visitors to find outstanding hospitality, excellent wine and a sense of what Willamette has to offer. The primary varietals the region is known for are pinot noir and chardonnay, and an emphasis on traditional method sparkling wine is a burgeoning movement, as well. A resident of the Willamette Valley since 2017, Kim is currently the wine director at Jory, the James Beard-nominated restaurant located at Allison Inn & Spa Resort. She curates the property’s extensive 500-label wine list with a heavy focus on local producers. Kim, and Jory sommeliers Jordan Haro and Tim Holst, all chimed in with picks for vineyards and tasting rooms to visit on your next trip to Oregon wine country.

Soter Vineyards

• 10880 NE Mineral Springs Rd, Carlton, OR 97111

Mineral Springs Ranch is a 250-acre biodynamic farm that houses the Soter vineyards and tasting room, plus fruit and vegetable plots, animal husbandry, and so much more. Known for their expressive versions of the region’s signature pinot noir and chardonnay, this producer was also a pioneer in the traditional method sparkling wine trend that’s recently taken hold. “I love their sparkling wines, specifically,” Kim says. “They have a brut rosé that was one of the first in the valley. It dates back at least 25 years, if not more. They were part of the earliest wave of producers to start making really excellent traditional method sparkling wine in Oregon.”

That sparkling rosé is the welcome drink for visitors who book the Provisions Experience, a paired lunch tasting that has upped the ante for food tastings in the area with its customization, use of on-site ingredients, and elevated plating and presentation. In a modern open kitchen inside the tasting room, chef Clayton Allen prepares six or seven carefully composed dishes that pair with Soter wines. The result is an almost overwhelming amount of food and drink, bursting with flavor and served with fine dining precision. “Soter’s Provisions Experience, essentially a lunch created from their estate garden, is always excellent,” Kim says.

Antiquum Farm

• 25075 Jaeg Rd, Junction City, OR 97448

Located much farther south in an under-the-radar AVA that doesn’t get as much attention, Antiquum Farm is the ideal tasting for a visitor who wants to explore a more obscure part of the valley. “This is a place that’s worth going out of your way for,” Kim says. “It’s a true farm, with a unique approach to viticulture that incorporates grazing livestock. They serve meals made with ingredients they’ve raised and grown on their farm, and all of their wine is made with vines on their farm.” 

Years before current trends, owner Stephen Hagen coined the term “grazing-based viticulture”—simply letting livestock live in and among the vines. Private wine tastings with cheese and charcuterie boards and guided vineyard walks are always on offer, though Kim recommends looking out for ticketed events they regularly host with more substantial meals. Located in the Lower Long Tom AVA, a visit here will check this rare AVA off an enthusiast’s list. Her picks from this producer are the Alium Pinot Gris, so named for skin-contact that renders the wine the color of a yellow onion skin, and the Luxuria Pinot Noir.

Sequitur

• 14865 NE North Valley Rd, Newberg, OR 97132

Fans of Beaux Frères will be thrilled to discover that founder Michael G. Etzel hung onto his own slice of vineyard after he retired from the storied Ribbon Ridge estate and handed winemaking duties off to his son. These days, Etzel continues to make wine, restricted solely to the 12-acre Sequitur vineyard. Adjacent to Beaux Frères’ upper terrace vineyard, his own small plot produces 17 clones of pinot noir and what he calls “a small knoll” of chardonnay.

“The Sequitur experience itself feels very singular, because they’re only making chardonnay and pinot noir off his own vines,” Kim says. “It’s just this one vineyard plot and one singular expression.” 

Sequitur translates loosely from Latin to “it follows,” and that feeling of a second chapter is another element that sets a visit apart. “Tasting there is having access to the story of a truly important person in Willamette Valley wine, and seeing what he’s doing after the thing that made him famous,” she says. “He helped establish the valley as a place with the best wines in the world, and that’s part of what makes it so special.” The chardonnay and the pinot noir are their two main wines, and Kim recommends any pinot noir they make. She also notes that his wines age incredibly well, so bottle collectors might be interested in purchasing library vintages.

Abbott Claim

• 11011 NE Bayliss Rd, Carlton, OR 97111

“This one is a personal favorite,” Kim says. “Tastings are held down in the barrel cellar, a beautiful space that has incredible ambience.” And she’s not the only one who feels that way. During a recent trip, multiple locals brought this tasting room up to me as a great one for out-of-towners to visit. “Sampling their True North, Slope and X Omni pinot noirs and chardonnays within their candlelit subterranean cave feels romantic, celebratory, and all around worth going out of your way for,” Kim’s fellow sommelier Haro notes. 

Given the incredible architecture, wow factor of the tasting space, and a level of care and hospitality that always hits home, Kim loves to point people toward this Carlton-based producer. But above all else, their highly stylized chardonnay is what puts it over the top. “They’re making a chardonnay with some reduction, a style that’s pretty hot right now,” she says. “It’s a fun one to point guests toward because it’s more unique and really memorable. Their pinot noir is great, as well.”

Nicolas-Jay

• 11905 NE Dudley Rd, Newberg, OR 97132

A winery that seamlessly blends new world aspirations and old world mastery, Nicolas-Jay is co-owned by former music business exec Jay Bober and Burgundian winemaker Jean-Nicolas Méo of Domaine Méo-Camuzet. Together, they created this organically farmed estate in northern Willamette Valley in 2013. Tasting at their indoor/outdoor tasting room overlooking the eponymous estate is a real treat, and fans of French wine or indie music will love discovering the insider story that drives this producer. 

“Their wines are beautiful,” Kim says. “They have a pinot noir I really love called Own-Rooted. Whenever winemakers have access to work with own-rooted vines, they treasure those vines.” Reach out directly to the hospitality team for special wine and food pairings hosted in the cozy tasting room, a serene vibe with oversized windows, a bright open kitchen and a wood-burning fireplace. Kim notes that if you’re staying at Allison Inn, the concierge there can assist in setting up this kind of special visit.

Alexana Winery

• 12001 NE Worden Hill Rd, Newberg, OR 97132

Located in the Dundee Hills, Alexana makes a wonderful local expression for guests to try, and it’s more than worth visiting to sample their estate pinot noir and chardonnay. This tasting room comes highly recommended from sommelier Tim Holst. He mentions that one thing that’s actually quite rare about the tasting experience—the chance to taste wines from their sister vineyards, Revana in Napa Valley, and in Corazón del Sol in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Argentina. 

“They offer a fantastic portfolio tasting experience called Hemisphere’s Collide that shows the elegance of both their Oregon wines and its sister properties,” Holst says. “It’s one of the few wineries to offer a comparison of world-class pinot noir, cabernet and malbec.” As far as the local vintages, Kim recommends making sure guests don’t leave without tasting the Alexana Estate Pinot Noir. And for those planning a day of tastings, it’s worth noting that Alexana and Nicolas-Jay are located quite near one another in the Dundee Hills.

Bethel Heights Vineyard

• 6060 Bethel Heights Rd NW, Salem, OR 97304

Located in an up-and-coming AVA in the state, Eola-Amity Hills, Bethel Heights is a fantastic spot for visitors because it presents a very distinct style of grape. “I love their Aeolian pinot noir because it really showcases the wind of this region,” Kim says. “This area is a little island of hills that come up from the valley floor, and they get blasted by wind off the coast that shoots up the Van Duzer Corridor, which is a cut in the coastal mountain range.” 

The wind hits the grapes and creates fruit with a slightly thicker skin, which adds more structure and tannins to wine from this region. “We love working with their wines, and we include a lot of them on our list,” Kim says. “The Casteel family, who runs this winery, is a founding family here from back in the early ‘70s. People often look to them as some of the best growers of wines down there. These are really clean, really classic, age-worthy wines.”

Critics back up that assertion; just recently, Decanter editor Clive Pursehouse gave the Bethel Heights 2023 “High Wire” chardonnay a coveted 100-point perfect score, making it the first Oregon wine to ever receive this distinction.

Evening Lands

• 4180 Lone Star Rd NW, Salem, OR 97304

If you do head out to Bethel Heights, this nearby vineyard is another exemplary iteration of the way wind impacts fruit in the Eola-Amity Hills. “Bethel Heights and Evening Lands are located really close to each other,” Kim says. “The same thing is happening with the wind there—this entire AVA uniquely has that climate feature.” 

Thoughtful tasting settings like a rustic-chic private cabin with a real wood-burning stove inside, or a secluded deck overlooking the vines, make this a beautiful place to take in the pinot noir, chardonnay, and gamay this house is producing. As weather permits, additional experiences, like outdoor vineyard tastings, let guests experience the draw of this producer’s two historic sites, the Seven Springs and Anden Vineyards. Adventurous guests can seek out the waterfall hike, where chilling a bottle of white downstream from the falls is not unheard of. 

Another note for those setting up multiple tastings: book here and at Bethel Heights on the same afternoon. “Grouping wineries from one AVA together can be a nice way to plan a day,” Kim says. That kind of stacking is also empowering for less experienced tasters, as building familiarity with a single winegrowing region is the first step toward expertise.

Now, Oregon is finally catching up, and the once-quiet agricultural zone is now dotted with luxurious, thoughtful stays that surprisingly stack up against any wine region in the world. I was born and raised in McMinnville, Oregon, and only later became a travel reporter, so I have a different perspective when it comes to development in the valley. But on a recent trip home, even I was surprised at how robust the hotel offerings have become. Overall, I’m thrilled to see people experiencing the beauty and bounty of Oregon, and want to point potential visitors in the right direction on where to stay when they make the trek. These properties are, hands down, the best places to rest your head after a long day of wine tasting and delicious local food. 

Atticus Hotel

• 375 NE Ford St, McMinnville, OR 97128

When the 36-room independent, boutique Atticus Hotel opened in 2018, it transformed McMinnville’s downtown corridor. The property’s locavore sensibilities reflect the area’s small town charm, fitting neatly into the city’s own style while offering an upscale hospitality that never existed here before. All guests are greeted with a complimentary glass of R. Stuart & Co. Blanc de Blanc bubbles upon arrival, and a quirky walnut archway in the lobby pays homage to one of the city’s founding fathers. From compact studios inspired by Oregon’s tiny house movement, to penthouse suites with over 10-foot ceilings, standalone soaking tubs and spacious living rooms, each room is unique. All but the smallest come with sleek fireplace screens that can be set to show dancing flames, like a year-round yule log, or activated to heat the room. Little touches like in-room Flag & Wire coffee with a French press, curated book selections, and Pendleton bathrobes channel Pacific Northwest culture to a T. Located just one block off historic 3rd Street, in the heart of the city, a stay here puts guests within walking distance from countless restaurants and a slew of local shops (Mes Amies is my favorite). While the hotel’s own Mediterranean restaurant, Cypress, is excellent, Thistle is just two blocks away and has been a neighborhood farm-to-table staple for almost two decades. If you’re a morning person, Alchemist’s Jam is a must for pastries and coffee, or the hotel’s affordable continental breakfast runs for $15. 

Inn the Ground

• 15250 NW Panther Creek Rd. Carlton, OR 97111

Quite literally built into the rolling hillside that overlooks the surrounding regenerative farm, Inn the Ground is a nine-room hotel burrowed into the soil. Every room has a floor-to-ceiling glass wall that showcases panoramic Willamette Valley views, along with the property’s pastures and regenerative water features below. The hands-off, holistic hospitality approach means a visit here can be very self-directed, but the inn is much too polished for a traditional B&B moniker. A ground-floor lobby is composed of two sleek, rustic-chic living areas that serve as generous third spaces, plus a full kitchen, stocked with complimentary snacks, sparkling and still water, and of course, the region’s signature wine, pinot noir. Outside, a shared fire pit is a cozy spot for stargazing and nightcaps; for early risers and hikers, miles of private wooded trails are another highlight. The guest rooms are located on the second floor of the hotel, which is dug into the land. Each suite features stunning local millwork, pillow-top king beds made and manufactured in Oregon, queen bed sleeper sofas, spa showers with Grown Alchemist products, and private patios. Breakfast is available on-site, but for dinner it’s less than a 10-minute drive into nearby Carlton to dine at the James Beard-recognized Hayward. Though it’s a slightly longer trip, a 20-minute car ride into McMinnville for Grounded Table, the property’s restaurant that spotlights grass-fed beef, heritage pork, pasture-raised eggs, and over 200 varieties of regeneratively grown vegetables from their farm, Tabula Rasa, is more than worth it.

The Tributary Hotel & Spa

• 610 NE 3rd St, McMinnville, OR 97128

Tributary owners Katie Jackson (of Jackson Family Wines) and her husband Shaun Kajiwara opened the first luxury boutique hotel in McMinnville in 2023, becoming the first and only Relais & Châteaux property in Oregon. The 100-year-old building they transformed—formerly a hardware store, and then, fun fact, a dance studio where I took ballet—now includes 10 sprawling suites, a brand-new spa (complete with sauna and gym), a third-wave coffee shop, and a signature restaurant, Okta. Initially launched as a hyper-local tasting menu helmed by chef Matthew Lightner, the restaurant downscaled to a more casual concept that’s better suited to the area’s quiet off season. Though a suite here is pricier than nearby options, the enormous soaking tubs, sophisticated decor, furniture and interiors, and incredibly high-touch service reflect a five-star experience. All-natural products from Eleusis, a Portland-based company, are used in both the spa and as guestroom amenities. In-room fireplaces and high-tech Ratio coffeemakers, plus a complimentary multi-course breakfast from their sister farm, round out the experience.

Black Walnut Inn + Vineyard

• 9600 NE Worden Hill Rd, Dundee, OR 97115

Encompassing both the original Black Walnut Inn and a new building, the Grange Estate, this hilltop oasis also houses the Four Graces winery and restaurant, where chefs Chase Williams and Zack Ehrlich serve their signature Anthology prix-fixe tasting. Though it is several miles outside of the nearest town, this small but mighty resort boasts some of the most striking views in the entire valley. The majority of guest rooms at the Grange Estate building offer framed shots of Mt. Hood on a clear day. And with chic, ‘70s-inspired fireplaces and plush sectional couches, that might be the best spot to sip some wine and take in the scenery. Separate bedrooms with king beds, enormous copper-colored soaking tubs and glassed-in showers, plus vintage-leaning decor, define this new offering. Down at the original inn, each traditional room has an outdoor space or balcony, and easy access to a shared firepit and the Cellar Bar. In the morning, guests can select from a chef-driven breakfast menu with fresh-baked goods, savory plates and sweet dishes. Privacy and a sense of serenity are driving forces here, but excellent tasting rooms like Nicholas Jay and Ambar Estate are a 10-minute drive back down the hill.

The Compass McMinnville

• 706 SE 1st St, McMinnville, OR 97128

The passion project of owner and first-time hotelier Christie Toal, this circa-1914 two-story home has been lovingly transformed into a five-bedroom boutique hotel that fits right into the accessible luxury sweet spot. The original structure is over 100 years old, so there’s no elevator, but a first-floor room and a standalone studio suite in the backyard offer accessible options for those who can’t do stairs. Frette robes and linens are a surprising high-end touch, and wet bathrooms with large, sleek soaking tubs and beautifully tiled showers are even more unexpected. After a long day of wine tasting or strolling around downtown, return to The Compass for a glass (or bottle) in their wine library, which is focused on women and independent winemakers, or relax in front of the communal living room fireplace. Nearby cocktail bar Conservatory serves excellent classics, and for the beer drinkers, both Heater Allen and Stickmen are excellent local breweries that are less than a five-minute drive and also serve pizza (do not miss the backyard food truck, Brassi’s at Heater Allen). Shake off any cobwebs in the morning with a private cedar barrel sauna and cold plunge session in the hotel’s backyard, and hit up the breakfast room for complimentary coffee and seltzer before checking out.

Allison Inn & Spa

• 2525 Allison Ln, Newberg, OR 97132 

One of the first luxury hotels in the region, this 35-acre resort was opened in 2009 and remains family-owned and operated 15 years later. It’s still the only property in the area that functions as a full-service resort with both spa and salon services, a pool and hot tub, and robust wellness and fitness offerings. A huge draw for both guests and the local community is the on-site restaurant, Jory, helmed by James Beard-nominated Native American chef Jack Strong. It’s widely recognized as one of the best restaurants across the entire valley. An abundant 1.5-acre chef’s garden and adjoining greenhouse are available for guest visits and tours, and the weekly garden report showcases just how seasonal their menus are. Despite the property’s spacious grounds, accommodations are limited to only 85 rooms and suites, ensuring it never feels overcrowded. Every room features thoughtful amenities like large soaking tubs with peekaboo views out to the fireplace and oversized bay window, balconies or patios, and custom wood furniture crafted from Oregon walnut. 500 pieces of original art from 100 local artists are carefully placed around the resort, and a small on-site vineyard provides grapes for their Austin Knoll vintages.

Douglas on Third

• 703 NE 3rd St, McMinnville, OR 97128

Although it was most recently an apartment building, this historic building was originally built in 1912 as a hotel. The 14-room boutique property returned to its roots in 2016, reopening as an affordable yet charming option right on 3rd Street. The hotel is contactless and self-check-in, but guests are welcomed with a complimentary glass of sparkling Oregon wine at the Pike Road Wines tasting room downstairs. All suites offer either full or mini kitchens, making it a great option for those who prefer to prepare their own food. There is no food or beverage on-site, but the location makes that a non-issue. Walk a few blocks down 3rd Street to the old school diner/dive bar Blue Moon Lounge, where they serve breakfast (and hair of the dog) all day. If you want a quick lunch, 1882 Grille, right across the street, offers outdoor balcony seating and excellent clam chowder. Next door, HiFi Wine Bar’s cozy neighborhood vibe is accented by a passionately curated international wine list and local nosh. This hotel is stairs-only, with only a petite lobby, but the living rooms in each suite are apartment-sized and come stocked with Roku TVs and yoga mats. Book an Owner’s Suite for an in-room electric fireplace and clawfoot tub. All guests have access to complimentary parking in a convenient back lot.

Abbey Road Farm

• 10501 NE Abbey Road, Carlton, OR 97111

A five-room bed and breakfast that’s so unassuming it blends right into the farm and vineyard around it, these converted grain silo suites have to be seen to be believed. Skepticism is an understandable initial reaction, but the build-out to convert this rustic micro-hotel included adding a brand-new silo to the two original structures to complete the project. Inside, a quaint ground-floor lobby is decked out to the nines and stocked with a sundries bar. Each of the five suites is named after a different wine varietal and is equipped with a king bed, heated bathroom floors and claw-foot soaking tubs with separate glass showers. Set on an 82-acre working farm, one of the standout amenities is a complimentary, five-course breakfast that’s prepared daily by chef Will Preisch. Because of the custom nature of the meal, guests can alert the chef to allergies or preferences and receive plates tailored to their needs. This multi-course meal draws on ingredients taken from the farm that are transformed by Preisch’s expertise into an astonishing fine dining experience. A separate converted tool shed, full of rustic decor, doubles as a de facto living room for guests, and the covered porch outside the silos and fire pit are additional outdoor spaces. There are farm animals on-site for those who want to engage, as well as the winery with tastings and gourmet snacks, open seven days a week. 

Forestry Department

• 137 SE Baker Street, McMinnville, OR 97128

For larger groups, the best way to book a stay in the area is through a private rental home, and this five-bedroom lodge is so chic it doubles as a boutique stay. Owners Tim Wade and Carole Lundgren were renovating the 1910 Craftsman house with plans for a micro-hotel when the pandemic hit, so they quickly pivoted to an entire home rental dubbed the Forestry Department. Every bedroom has its own bathroom and is themed around a native Pacific Northwest tree, complete with a thoughtful placard sharing some history about each species. The oversized backyard offers plenty of space for outdoor socializing, complete with a fire pit and up to 10 Adirondack chairs. Adjoining the large porch, a private cedar Finlandia sauna can accommodate three or four people at once. Since launching this Airbnb to an over-the-top reaction from their guests, the couple has launched not one but two others, and are currently working on a proper hotel that will debut in McMinnville in early 2027.