Paul Jebara – Observer https://observer.com News, data and insight about the powerful forces that shape the world. Fri, 19 Jun 2026 12:30:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.5 168679389 The Best Men’s Swimwear for Summer, From Tailored Classics to Bold Prints https://observer.com/list/best-swimwear-for-men/ Fri, 19 Jun 2026 12:30:10 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1417303

In 1971, a photographer named Fred Prysquel started screen-printing sea turtles onto cut-down military surplus trousers in Saint-Tropez and accidentally created Vilebrequin. The idea was simple enough: make swimwear a little more fun, a little more glamorous, and a lot more French. For a while, it worked. Men bought trunks the way they bought sunglasses or linen shirts, as part of a summer life they aspired to rather than one they already had. Then came the long reign of the board short. For the better part of two decades, beaches from Malibu to Mykonos were filled with knee-length nylon banners flapping around men’s shins. Most were too long, many were too loud, and nearly all looked as though they had been purchased with about 30 seconds of consideration. Somewhere in the process, swimwear became one of the few categories in a grown man’s wardrobe where taste seemed optional.

That has changed. Hemlines have crept steadily upward. The best trunks now borrow their proportions from tailoring, their fabrics from performance gear and their details from clothing designed to be worn somewhere other than a pool deck. Even the swim brief, long confined to competitive swimmers and Europeans with a higher tolerance for public scrutiny, has worked its way back into circulation. Scandalous cuts aside, any good swimsuit should dry before the check arrives, sit properly at the waist and survive the transition from swim platform to lunch without looking as though you’ve forgotten to get dressed. Of course, the right pair depends on where it’s headed. The restrained solids that disappear effortlessly into a beach club in Saint-Tropez can feel strangely timid on a boat in the Cyclades or a weekend in St. Barths, where a little color earns its passage. What matters is that the choice exists again. The 22 styles below are proof that men’s swimwear has become a discerning piece for the first time in years.

CDLP Swim Brief Box Cut

The Stockholm label built its name on treating swimwear like fine tailoring, and the Box Cut is its sleeper—a square-cut that lands somewhere between a brief and a short, cut low and clean in recycled Econyl. It’s the rare suit that flatters the confident swimmer without tipping into Speedo territory, and it packs flat enough to forget you brought it.

$120, SHOP NOW

CDLP. CDLP

Thom Sweeney Swim Trunks

The peach color is what catches the eye first. Not orange, not pink, but that narrow slice of the spectrum the Italians seem to understand better than anyone. Thom Sweeney leaves everything else alone and lets the shade carry it. Pack them for a week on the Amalfi Coast, and you’ll find yourself reaching for them long after you’re home.

$375, SHOP NOW

Thom Sweeney. Thom Sweeney

Orlebar Brown x Automobili Lamborghini Bulldog

Orlebar Brown’s breakthrough was simple: treat a swim short like a pair of trousers. Two decades later, the formula still works. Lamborghini’s hexagonal graphics give this version some visual speed, but the real selling point remains the side adjusters, which keep everything sitting properly long after most drawstrings have surrendered.

$368, shop now

Lamborghini. Lamborghini

Bather Over-Dyed Indigo Swim Trunk

Most swimwear is designed to look the same on Labor Day as it did in May. This pair takes the opposite approach. Hand-dyed with madder root alongside Toronto artist Jefford Lam, the color is intended to fade and shift through the season. By August, it belongs more to its owner than its maker.

$150, SHOP NOW

Bather. Bather

Brioni Printed Swim Trunks

Most tailoring houses stumble the moment they wander into leisurewear. Brioni doesn’t. The navy-and-white foliage print gives these enough personality to earn a spot in the suitcase, while the whole effect stays unmistakably Roman in its sprezzatura.

$715, SHOP NOW

Brioni. Brioni

Yuasa Classic Swim Brief

The swim brief has spent years trapped between two stereotypes: Olympic swimmer and retired Italian industrialist. Yuasa strips away both. Cut from chlorine-resistant stretch Lycra with a hidden drawstring and a clean, low profile, it’s proof that the style works perfectly well for everyone in between.

$90, SHOP NOW

YUASA. YUASA

Sunspel Striped Swim Trunks

While most swim shorts angle to be noticed, these do the opposite. The green-and-white stripe looks lifted from a vintage beach umbrella, and the cotton blend has a softness the technical stuff never manages. For the man whose summer kit already runs to Oxford shirts, espadrilles and a sun-warped paperback, here’s the match.

$175, SHOP NOW

Sunspel. Sunspel

Vilebrequin x Fabrice Hyber Pescador Moorea

This spring’s collaboration with French artist Fabrice Hyber—a Venice Biennale Golden Lion winner—scatters a loose watercolor of fish across a pale ground. It’s the rare print—antithetical to a gift-shop souvenir, the first of three capsules the house is rolling out through 2027.

$375, SHOP NOW

Vilebrequin. Vilebrequin

Tom Ford Straight-Leg Mid-Length Dégradé Swim Shorts

No one arrives at an $850 swim short by accident. Tom Ford knows that, which is why these lean fully into the fantasy. The hand-painted gradient washes from cobalt into burgundy, while side buckles keep the waist clean and uninterrupted. Excessive? Certainly. Then again, moderation has never been the house specialty.

$850, SHOP NOW

Tom Ford. Tom Ford

Paul Smith Dual-Toned Striped Swim Shorts

One leg is striped in orange, the other in blue. On paper that sounds like a terrible idea. In practice, it feels exactly like the sort of visual mischief Paul Smith has spent five decades getting away with.

$195, SHOP NOW

Paul Smith. Paul Smith

Gucci GG Poplin Swim Trunks

There are subtler ways to dress for the beach, and Gucci has no use for any of them. The interlocking GG covers nearly every inch of these trunks, turning one of fashion’s most familiar logos into pool attire, although the black-and-grey palette pulls it back from the brink.

$900, SHOP NOW

Gucci. Gucci

Loro Piana Bay Mid-Length Swim Shorts

A deep red swim short with a white drawstring is the rare solid that holds up against teak and white linen, which is reason enough to wear one to lunch on the deck before you’ve been anywhere near the water. The technical shell sheds a swim in minutes, so you can go from the sea to the bar without a clammy walk in between, and there’s a Velcro pocket at the back for the room key.

$550, SHOP NOW

Loro Piana. Loro Piana

Hartford Classic Swim Trunks

French brands have a habit of making casual clothes feel as though they’ve already lived a good life. Hartford garment-dyes these trunks, then brushes the fabric until it feels soft enough to suggest years of wear. The result lands somewhere between a swim short and something found in an old photograph of the Riviera.

$205, SHOP NOW

Hartford. Hartford

Frescobol Carioca Salvador Swim Shorts

There comes a point in every man’s life when he realizes he does not need another print. Frescobol Carioca built much of its reputation on understanding that moment. The Salvador is cut clean through the thigh, dries quickly and comes in seven colorways that never compete with the scenery.

$235, SHOP NOW

Frescobol Carioca. Frescobol Carioca

Fedeli Madeira Printed Straight-Leg Swim Shorts

Up close, the print resolves into a tiny diamond lattice of cobalt, brown and white, the kind that passes for solid navy across a terrace and only reveals its intricacy when someone leans in. Fedeli builds these from its Airstop technical cloth, which beads water and dries on the walk back from the sea, and finishes them with a small fish-shaped carabiner at the waist.

$220, SHOP NOW

Fedeli. Fedeli

Etro Printed Swim Trunks

Etro has spent decades making the case that a pattern can be sophisticated in the right hands. Tropical motifs tangle with the house’s signature paisley over a deep red ground, and the result looks entirely at ease somewhere between Comporta and Bodrum.

$430, SHOP NOW

Etro. Etro

Charvet x Thorsun Large Paisley Swim Shorts

Paisley is one of those motifs that spends years looking hopelessly dated before suddenly appearing sophisticated again. This returning collab with swimwear brand Thorsun borrows the pattern from Charvet’s tie archives and scales it up dramatically, letting deep reds and violets spread across a dark ground.

Thorsun. Thorsun

Zegna Rio Swim Shorts

Zegna cut these from a paper-dry taupe shell and finished them like trousers, with a hook-and-zip fly and a clean side-tab waist in place of the usual schoolboy drawstring. The neutral is the move, a swim short that disappears under a linen camp collar and carries you from a lounger to a long lunch without a costume change.

$715, SHOP NOW

Zegna. Zegna

Sundek Washed Nylon Taffeta Swim Shorts

Before luxury swimwear became a category, there was Sundek. The California surf brand has been making nylon taffeta trunks since the Eisenhower administration, and this pair feels pleasantly untouched by trend cycles. The garment purposefully welcomes color fading, so it looks lived-in like something pulled from a Ligurian beach attic.

$89, SHOP NOW

Sundek. Sundek

Commas Lunar Botanica Classic Swim Short

Most floral swimwear looks as though it was chosen by committee. Sydney label Commas avoids the trap. White botanical illustrations drift across a dark ground that feels closer to a vintage textile than a tropical print, making this one of the few patterned shorts that improve the longer you look at them.

$300, ShoP NOW

Commas. Commas

Oas Elowen Swim Shorts

Cut from brushed quick-dry shell, this pair is splashed with a surreal garden motif that reads art-school sketchbook. The fit is relaxed and straight, with a comfortable mesh lining and an elastic drawstring waistband that doesn’t dig. A hidden zip pocket keeps your room key or card out of the sand.

$100, shop now

Oas. Oas

Sid Mashburn Zip-Front Standard Swim Shorts

Made from a lightweight and quick-drying nylon shell, these streamlined shorts offer a stellar fit, per the American brand’s reputation for sartorial prowess. A standout feature is the drainage hole that prevents waterlogging. Though the Standard model has a 4.5-inch inseam, the style is available in a longer inseam for those seeking more coverage.

$125, shop now

Sid Mashburn. Sid Mashburn
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The Insider’s Guide to Athens, Beyond the Greek Island Stopover https://observer.com/list/athens-greece-travel-guide/ Tue, 16 Jun 2026 19:30:56 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1567173

The ancients called Athens the violet-crowned city, and at dusk, you understand the compliment. Mount Hymettus bruises to lavender behind the Acropolis, marble hoards the day’s last heat, and somewhere below, a scooter threads an alley plainly never meant for engines. Three thousand years of conquest, reinvention and civic improvisation lie stacked beneath your feet.

Athens has always been easier to caricature than to understand. Most people arrive expecting a museum with traffic. Instead, they find a city that refuses to hold still for the camera. What makes the city feel so electric now is that it earned this incarnation the hard way. Athens spent much of the past 15 years weathering economic collapse, protest and an identity reckoning litigated in the streets. Scarcity, as it often does, bred invention. Young chefs opened ambitious kitchens in unfashionable districts. Galleries took over vacant storefronts. Bartenders assembled world-class cocktail programs from whatever the shelves held. The ingenuity forged during austerity has matured into something more self-assured and considerably more fun. 

The transformation hasn’t stopped at the center. The €8 billion Ellinikon redevelopment is recasting the former international airport as one of Europe’s largest urban regeneration projects, anchored by what will become the continent’s largest coastal park, new cultural institutions and a reimagined Riviera. Luxury hotels keep cutting ribbons. Direct flights keep multiplying. American now lands nonstop from Dallas, and the first direct service from India touched down earlier this year. The old habit of treating Athens as a gateway to somewhere else becomes harder to defend with each passing season. 

The city’s gift is that unexpected alchemy, turning contradiction into atmosphere. Antiquity and anarchy. Third-wave espresso chased by a plastic cup of house wine. A billionaire’s yacht moored 30 minutes from a kafeneio where old men still argue politics beneath the plane trees. Athens isn’t having a moment—moments imply novelty and brevity. This city has endured too much for either. Here’s how to experience its best.

Where to Stay

Conrad Athens, The Ilisian

  • Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens 115 28, Greece

The 1963 Hilton was the hotel where modern Athens first dressed for the international jet-set, and after a long, dark stretch, it reopened this April as the Conrad, the brand’s Greece debut. Behind the mid-century facade near Lycabettus sit 278 oversized rooms, the largest outdoor pool in central Athens, a rooftop running track and nine places to eat and drink—chief among them Byzantino, a grand Greek-French brasserie from Angelos Lantos, the first chef to earn two Michelin stars in the city.

Conrad Athens, The Ilisian. Conrad Athens

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens

  • Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni 166 71, Greece

Greece’s first Four Seasons occupies the old Astir Palace, the 1961 Riviera grande dame where Onassis, Sinatra and Jackie Kennedy once summered, half an hour south of the city on a pine-clad peninsula with three private beaches. A $650 million restoration brought it back in 2019 across three room clusters, anchored by Pelagos, the Michelin-starred seafood room where chef Luca Piscazzi cooks Mediterranean with Italian clarity, and Matsuhisa, where guests can dine on Nobu’s signature Japanese cuisine.

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens. Four Seasons

Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens

  • Artemisiou 1, Glifada 166 75, Greece

Ace’s Greek debut took a 1972 Brutalist block in beachy Glyfada—a short stroll from the Niarchos cultural center—and turned it into the neighborhood’s de facto living room. A stunning four-story Claire Manent mural sets the tone—18 Greek artists worked over the interiors—and the culinary action moves from Sebastian’s Mediterranean bistro by day up to the new fifth-floor Sora, a Pan-Asian rooftop.

Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens. Courtesy of Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens/De Pasquale + Maffini

Mona

  • Kakourgodikiou 4,  Athens 105 54, Greece

Psirri’s coolest hotel still feels half-improvised, in the best way: six floors of converted industrial building in the city’s most art-splashed quarter, ducts and salvaged ceramics left frankly exposed. The crowd skews creative, a lobby-gallery doubles as a co-working floor, and there’s a fair chance the rooftop is hosting a DJ or a chef pop-up by the time you wander back from dinner.

Mona Athens. Courtesy of Mona Athens/Ana Santl 2023

Monastik Living in Athens

  • Karea 20, Athina 116 36, Greece

Athens has no shortage of boutique hotels, but few feel this private: just 11 suites set into a quiet residential hillside, each one framing the Parthenon from bed. Breakfast turns up in woven baskets, and the rooftop plunge pool doubles as a lookout over the city. It suits travelers who want Athens at arm’s length without giving up the view, which the plunge pool duly clinches.

Monastik Living in Athens. Courtesy of Monastik Living in Athens

Ergon House Athens

  • 23, Mitropoleos Street,  Athens 105 57, Greece

A hotel stacked over a gourmet market sounds like a gimmick until breakfast lands: 29 rooms perched above a working Ergon bakery on central Mitropoleos, steps from the cathedral and Syntagma. Glass walls open onto the kitchens, the minibar leans on house-cured meats and proprietary coffee, and the rooftop bar pairs Acropolis sightlines with a well-made cocktail. If your travels orbit the next meal, book here.

Ergon House Athens. Courtesy of Ergon House Athens

La Divina

  • Adrianou 3,  Athens 105 55, Greece

Lodged in the 1897 neoclassical building that once held the Odeon Athenaeum—the conservatory founded in Maria Callas’ honor—La Divina names its 12 suites after the operas she sang and faces them toward the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the National Observatory. It sits on pedestrian Adrianou Street in Thissio, the cobblestoned quarter that traces the western foot of the Acropolis, a two-minute walk from the Monastiraki flea market and 10 from the new Maria Callas Museum. 

La Divina. Courtesy of Aria Hotels Group

Xenodocheio Milos

  • Kolokotroni 3-5,  Athens 105 62, Greece

The first hotel from Costas Spiliadis’s Milos seafood empire sits in a neoclassical building off Kolokotroni, minutes from Syntagma, its 43 rooms done in pared-back white marble and pale wood. The real draw waits downstairs: Estiatorio Milos, one of the city’s best fish restaurants, plating ice-bedded langoustines and whole catch flown in daily.

Xenodocheio Milos. Courtesy of Xenodocheio Milos

Hotel Grande Bretagne

  • 1 Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma Square Str,  Athens 105 64, Greece

Sited in Syntagma Square since 1874, the Grande Bretagne has put up heads of state, film stars and visiting royalty for 150 years. Across 320 rooms and 58 suites, it remains entirely certain of its own importance. The redrawn GB Roof Garden—reworked by London’s Goddard Littlefair—holds one of the city’s great lunch reservations, the Acropolis laid out behind your table and the changing of the guard performing in the square below.

Hotel Grande Bretagne. Courtesy of Hotel Grande Bretagne

The Dolli

  • Mitropoleos 49,  Athens 105 56, Greece

Grecotel poured serious money into a 1925 neoclassical mansion between Monastiraki and the Acropolis, and the Dolli grasps that half the pleasure of Athens is visual: 46 rooms, with original Picasso and Cocteau works in the public spaces, plus a Le Bar Secret speakeasy keeping the same museum-grade company. The headline act is the fifth-floor rooftop restaurant and infinity pool.

The Dolli. Courtesy of The Dolli

Perianth

  • Limpona 2,  Athens 105 60, Greece

K-Studio’s revival of a 1930s building on Agia Irini Square—one of the liveliest little plazas in the center—made it a 38-room Design Hotels member with genuine character and a refreshingly low-key mood. Downstairs, the 2025 arrival of Anther serves contemporary Greek plates around a photogenic circular terrazzo bar.

Perianth Hotel. Courtesy of Perianth Hotel

The Margi

  • Litous 11, Vouliagmeni 166 71, Greece

On the Vouliagmeni stretch of the ritzy Riviera, the 89-key Margi has spent decades refining a softer kind of glamour—intimate rather than scene-y, more pine-and-sea than velvet rope. Much of the menu at Patio, one of the area’s better tables, comes off the hotel’s own farm, and evenings around the pool tilt toward mezze and live music over bottle service.

The Margi. Courtesy of The Margi

What to Do

Catch a Film Under the Acropolis

Summer in Athens means open-air cinema, a rite as fixed as the heat, and the city’s two most storied screens both flicker back to life for the 2026 season. Cine Paris has projected since 1920, when a local barber home from France propped a screen on a Plaka rooftop; restored under the streaming outfit Cinobo, it now pairs new releases and curated classics with a floodlit Acropolis dead ahead from its garden terrace. A few minutes west, Cine Thission has screened films since 1935 and is the one locals will go to the mat for—same illuminated backdrop, homemade cheese pie and sour-cherry spoon sweets at the bar, tsipouro in hand. Films often run in their original language with Greek subtitles, so an English-language feature needs no translation.

Spend a Day on the Athens Riviera

The coast south of the center has become the reason to abandon it, and a full day repays the defection. Open at Lake Vouliagmeni, a spring-fed thermal lagoon hemmed by limestone cliffs, where the water keeps a swimmable warmth through winter and small fish will exfoliate your feet gratis. Decamp for a slow seaside lunch over lobster and the morning’s catch along the Vouliagmeni-Astir stretch, then drift the designer boutiques and waterfront cafes of the new Astir Marina, where the superyacht set moors among the palms. With a car and an open afternoon, press another hour south to Cape Sounion, where the marble Temple of Poseidon crowns the headland and a sunset over the Aegean has halted travelers mid-step since antiquity.

Lake Vouliagmeni. Lake Vouliagmeni

Shop Like a Local

Athens has long goaded the well-dressed to think past trend, and the proof now spreads across a handful of neighborhoods. In Plaka, Maria Lemos—founder of London’s cult Mouki Mou—planted an Athens sister in a restored 1970s building in 2023, stocking the likes of Casey Casey, Lemaire and Toogood among makers who reward a slow look; climb to the roof terrace, and the Acropolis stares back. Meanwhile, Hyper Hypo keeps an unshowy concept store and art-book warren of Greek editions, design zines and risograph prints, while Totimo Design shows collectible furniture and lighting from global names beside homegrown talent. Lito Fine Jewelry deals in statement pieces that double as art history shrunk to the wrist.

Mouki Mou Athens. Mouki Mou

Get Lost in Anafiotika

A stone’s throw from the Acropolis, Anafiotika is a fragment of the Cyclades mislaid on the mainland—an accidental island hamlet clinging to the hill’s northern flank. Stonemasons from Anafi raised it in the 19th century while rebuilding Athens after independence, and the whitewashed cottages, Byzantine chapels and squeeze-through alleys endure. Just 45 homes survive, many still in the hands of the settlers’ descendants, so there are no boutiques and no signage to follow. Come early or near dusk, when the tour groups thin and the lanes belong to cats, potted geraniums and the odd resident hauling groceries uphill. Wear shoes you can climb in; the only way through is on foot.

Anafiotika. Courtesy of Anastacia Dvi/Unsplash

Dig Through Monastiraki’s Wonders

A pileup of epochs, Monastiraki trades on texture and contradiction. It spills from its namesake square into Byzantine rubble, Ottoman mosques and a flea market that lands somewhere between souk and surrealist stage set—leather sandals, vintage vinyl, museum-grade antiques and counterfeit sneakers jostling in one open-air bazaar. Side streets conceal concept stores and cafes, the gallery Melas Martinos among them, dealing in Greek antiques and folk art. Sunday is the market at full tilt, when the junk dealers spread across Avissinias Square and the haggling turns competitive.

Monastiraki.

Get Your Museum Fix

Athens’ museums vault across 5,000 years without collecting a speck of dust. At the Acropolis Museum, glass floors lay the ancient city bare underfoot while marble friezes confront their Parthenon source—reserve a timed slot, since the site itself now rations daily entry. The Museum of Cycladic Art startles with its modernity, its 3,000-year-old figurines prefiguring 20th-century sculpture, while the Benaki, in a neoclassical mansion, plumbs Greek identity from Byzantine icon to avant-garde canvas. The National Archaeological Museum guards the country’s richest hoard of antiquities and faces a major David Chipperfield expansion already underway. Out on the coast, Renzo Piano’s Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center reframes opera and ballet beneath a vast green roof you can walk to the top of.

The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. Courtesy of John Cameron/Unsplash

Where to Eat

Plyta

  • Plateia Plyta, Pangrati, Athens 116 34

Lodged in a high-ceilinged hall on Plateia Plyta with the original mosaic floor left untouched, Plyta—which opened fall 2025—bills itself as kafeneio, refreshment stand and grill at once; the market menu turns over daily, and the plates emerge from the wood fire and embers built for the middle of the table.

Plyta Athens. Plyta Athens

Iodio

  • Loukianou 8, Athens 106 75

Georgianna Hiliadaki—the only female chef in Greece with two Michelin stars, banked during her Funky Gourmet years—commands this Kolonaki kitchen, sending out seafood of serious technique and a feather hand. Sea urchin insinuates itself into pasta, bottarga keeps company with white chocolate, and the fish comes off boats from Kalymnos and Leros, close enough to taste the distance it didn’t travel.

Iodio Athens. Iodio Athens

Pharaoh

  • Solomou 54, Athens 106 82

Pharaoh passes for a wine bar until the open kitchen and charcoal grill give the game away. Chef Manolis Papoutsakis resurrects the rural Greek comfort cooking of his upbringing—meatballs, bitter greens, slow-roasted lamb—then lifts it through obsessive sourcing and a technician’s hand, all of it sized for sharing across a packed little room.

Pharaoh. Courtesy of Giorgos Sfakianakis

Barbarossa Athens

  • Alkionidon Avenue, 4, Voula 166 74

An import from Paros, Barbarossa occupies the sleek 91 Athens Riviera complex down in Voula, the Aegean filling the windows. The Mediterranean plates make the case for the trip south—white grouper carpaccio with anchovy pesto and sea urchin, lobster ravioli in crustacean butter, grilled squid with cauliflower couscous—and a sharp, all-but-encyclopedic local wine list closes the scene.

Barbarossa Athens. Courtesy of Barbarossa Athens

Linou Soumpasis k Sia

  • Kalamida 9, Athens 105 54

A modern reconsideration of the taverna, staged in a terrazzo-floored canteen with metal chairs and a lemon tree out back. Greek salad with local brie and lamb tagliata with wild herbs land familiar and subversive at once, and with nearly everything organic, the all-Greek wine list doubles as a crash course in native varietals you’ll struggle to find by the bottle back home.

Linou Soumpasis k Sia. Courtesy of Linou Soumpasis k Sia

Makris

  • Astiggos 10, Ermou 119, Athens 105 55

Makris weds hyperlocal sourcing to archaeological intrigue—you dine above ruins exposed through the glass floor. Across three tasting menus, chef Petros Dimas pulls from his own farm beyond the city for plates as thoughtful as the setting is theatrical, red mullet in rockfish broth with wild kale among them.

Makris. Courtesy of Kostas Kappa Photography – www.kostaskappa.gr

Soil

  • Ferekidou 5, Athens 116 35

This Pangrati powerhouse is where chef Tasos Mantis’ “earthy gastronomy” takes root in a regenerative farm, and nearly every plate carries that dirt-to-table logic. Aspromitiko beans from Limnos surface in X.O. sauce, fig consorts with tarama and celery, and the desserts fold in koji, elderflower and bronze fennel—even the bread turns up plated with gallery polish.

Soil. Courtesy of Yiamouris Studio

Akra

  • Aminta 12, Athens 116 35

Akra is the Athenian smokehouse redrawn with cleaner lines and a Mediterranean tilt. The bakery up front sets the tone, languorous and scent-led, before the daily-shifting barbecue menu takes over in full or half portions—a casual room running on uncommonly serious fire.

Akra Athens. Courtesy of Dimitris Kleanthis

Ama Lachei

  • Kallidromiou 69, Athens 106 83

In a former schoolhouse on a steep Exarchia street, Ama Lachei has perfected the unbothered Athenian courtyard. Tables spill across stone terraces beneath fig trees, where locals dawdle for hours over ouzo, sharp seasonal meze and mains that take the taverna canon somewhere more ambitious.

Nolan

  • Voulis 31 – 33, Athens 105 57

Chef Sotiris Kontizas braids Greek and Japanese instincts into a compact, share-built menu. Standbys like soba with smoked trout arrive at a clip that begs a second order, and Sweet Nolan next door points the same impulse toward dessert, with a cult following all its own.

Nolan. Courtesy of Nolan

Feyrouz

  • Agathonos 1, Athens 105 51

Feyrouz dispatches Syrian-Greek flavor from a blink-and-miss-it storefront near Agia Irini—vegan pies, lentil-stuffed wraps, semolina cakes drenched in orange-blossom syrup, all made fresh and priced with rare mercy. A few doors on, Feyrouz The Levantine Pastry piles on baklava variations and tahini-slicked sweets.

Feyrouz Athens. Courtesy of Feyrouz Athens

Birdman

  • Voulis 35, Athens 105 57

Birdman threads the needle: loose enough for walk-ins, exacting enough for serious palates. Modeled on a Tokyo izakaya, it turns on grilled skewers, Japanese whisky and wine carrying a local inflection—the kind of place where you take a seat at the bar, order a little of everything and stay well past your intentions.

Birdman. Tavitian

Where to Drink

Telion

  • Kalogira 1, Athens 113 62

Kypseli is the neighborhood every Athenian will swear is about to break, and Telion is one place that makes the case—a listening bar slotted into a shuttered old pastry shop, the original Telion sign still overhead. Vinyl governs the room and bartender Popi Sevastou governs the drinks, low-lit and exact, among them a Negroni talked into softness with apricot and Pedro Ximénez.

Telion Athens Bar. Telion

The Bar in Front of the Bar

  • Petraki 5, Athens 105 63

The name is the whole story: Alexandros Tselepis, Konstantinos Theodorakopoulos and Simeon Papanikolaou started pouring from street scaffolding during the Covid pandemic, a front for the proper bar going up behind it—then liked the sidewalk so much they never moved in. There’s no indoor seating, just a digital sign flashing deadpan mottos and eight zero-waste cocktails that change by the day, built from the back bar’s prep. Slip through the unmarked door, and you hit Rumble in the Jungle, a boxing-themed speakeasy named for the 1974 Ali-Foreman bout.

The Bar in Front of the Bar. The Bar in Front of the Bar

Kennedy Vins Bons Vivants

  • Nikiou 9, Athens 105 60

Photographer and tastemaker Chris Kontos decants his globe-trotting eye into Kennedy, a downtown natural-wine bar wired for sound. The labels run idiosyncratic and far-flung—Greece, then well past it—and the turntable does as much to set the mood as the pour.

Kennedy. Courtesy of Kennedy

Materia Prima

  • Pl. Mesologgiou 3, Athens 116 34

The Pangrati neighborhood’s revival finds its sharpest expression at Materia Prima, a bar and bottle shop flying the flag for natural wine from Greek growers nobody’s heard of yet. Pop-ups, guest-chef takeovers and a rotating cheese board keep the place from settling, and an understatedly chic crowd gathers at the wooden tables to swirl cloudy orange pours as the night wears thin.

Materia Prima. Courtesy of Materia Prima

Line

  • Agathodemonos 37, Athens

Line treats waste as a dare. Lodged in a converted gallery in Kato Petralona, it ferments its own non-grape “wines,” beers and sourdough in-house, then routes the leftovers back into the cocktails as vinegars, syrups and clarified fruit waters; the Delusional Margarita pulls reposado through mustard, ketchup, potato water and spice and somehow hits all the right notes. Order it with the house bread and Greek cheese and watch the loop close on your own table.

Line. Courtesy of Line

Tanini Agapi Mou

  • Ippokratous 91 , Athens 106 80

Tanini Agapi Mou—loosely “Tannin, My Love”—revs up wine-geek devotion without a flicker of pretension. The short list leans hard into indigenous Greek grapes with a few quirky European ringers, and young creatives and lifers alike colonize the sidewalk tables over glasses and vivid small plates.

Tanini Agapi Mou. Courtesy of Tanini Agapi Mou

Wine Is Fine

  • Vissis 6, Athens 105 51

Two Frenchmen and a Greek chef opened this corner room in early 2023 with a list that spans nearly 80 natural labels, mostly French and Greek, with side trips through orange and pét-nat and only a handful by the glass. Put yourself in the hands of whoever’s working the bar—you’ll be more than “fine.”

Wine Is Fine. Thomas Brengou

Baba au Rum

  • Klitiou 6, Athens 105 60

Thanos Prunarus opened Baba au Rum in 2009 and effectively wrote the opening chapter of modern Athens cocktail culture. More than 400 rums line the back bar of a room he built by hand, tropical without ever tipping into full tiki. Order the namesake: a daiquiri riff with Barceló Imperial, basil and a whisper of green Chartreuse, unchanged since opening night.

Cantina Social

  • Leokoriou 8, Athens 105 54

There’s no sign—you slip down a covered arcade off Leokoriou and surface in a strange, high-walled courtyard that feels clandestine even shoulder to shoulder. By day, it’s a neighborhood café where antique dealers nurse their coffee; after dark, resident and guest DJs work disco, house and techno in the cramped interior den while the overflow drinks cheap at tables scattered across the stones.

Cantina Social. Paul Jebara

The Clumsies

  • Praxitelous 30, Athens 105 61

Since mixologists Nikos Bakoulis and Vasilis Kyritsis launched The Clumsies, it’s been a lodestar of Athenian nightlife iNikos Bakoulis and Vasilis Kyritsis opened The Clumsies in 2014 inside a restored 1919 building off a small downtown square, then spent a decade parked near the top of every global ranking. It pulls a full shift, trading specialty coffee by morning for cocktails and a DJ by night. The drinks reward a curious order: a Café Flamma folding Metaxa 12, burnt tomato, cold brew and cardamom into something bittersweet, or a Mediterranean Gimlet threading gin through a Greek-salad cordial of tomato water, cucumber and olive.

The Clumsies. The Clumsies
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Summer Shoes for Men Who’ve Moved Past the Tired White Sneaker https://observer.com/list/best-mens-summer-shoes-loafers-sneakers-espadrilles/ Tue, 09 Jun 2026 16:41:39 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1653339 There’s a moment, usually mid-June, when a man looks down at his feet and finds the same shoe he found last summer, and the summer before that. White leather, low top, scuffed at the toe, bought in a hurry because it went with everything and offended no one. We all own a version of the white sneaker; that’s the small shame of it. It’s the sartorial equivalent of answering, “I’m easy, whatever you want” when someone asks where you’d like to eat—agreeable to a fault, and forgotten by the time the check lands. The white sneaker made sense in 2019. Now, it’s the khaki cargo short of footwear: technically functional, spiritually exhausted, worn by 30 million men who’ve all silently agreed not to bring it up. No sandals on this list, before anyone asks. Consider these the alternative for the man who finds the slide too easy and the white sneaker too tired.

The story across the spring collections and the collab drops is texture: suede gone soft as a worn baseball glove, raffia and jute braided by hand in La Rioja, calfskin pressed into the basketweave Bottega has spent 60 years perfecting, pony hair in colors that have no business on a shoe and look terrific anyway. The smooth white surface that flattened every summer into the same blank shrug has given way to shoes you can read with your fingers. The sneaker world has moved on, too—Grace Wales Bonner retired the Samba long enough to design something new, Jacquemus keeps mining Nike’s 1972 origin story, and the low-profile suede racer is what men now reach for instead of the court shoe. Here is a capsule of 18 shoes—loafers, woven mules, espadrilles, an elevated boat shoe and the sneakers worth caring about.

Sabah Palermo Baba

The woven outlier of the bunch, and a reminder that you don’t need four figures to buy a shoe with a story. The upper is vegetable-tanned leather, hand-woven by artisans in Almanza, a northern Spanish town that has been making shoes since the early 1700s, then assembled into a backless Baba at Sabah’s El Paso workshop. The open back makes it the pair you shuffle into for a dinner that started on someone’s terrace and went long.

$395, shop now

Sabah Palermo Baba. Sabah

Loewe Flex Suede Loafer

The Flex is the loafer for the man who wants the look without the lunchtime regret—an anatomic toe box and an elasticated heel give it the give of a slipper while it still photographs like a proper shoe. Supple suede, a padded insole, the Loewe logo struck small at the topline, made in Italy. There’s a collector’s footnote too: this is among the last shoes from Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe before he left for Dior, so the design language is about to become a period piece.

$950, shop now

Loewe Flex Suede Loafer. Loewe

Puma x Nahmias Speedcat

The Speedcat is the low-profile sneaker of the year, the slim motorsport shape eating the chunky dad shoe’s lunch, and Doni Nahmias’ second Puma collaboration dresses it in lightly distressed premium suede with rope laces over that flat racing sole.

$160, shop now

Puma x Nahmias Speedcat. Puma

Loro Piana Summer Walk Suede Loafer

Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana drew this in 2005 to cross a yacht’s teak deck without scuffing it, which is why the sole is non-marking white rubber and the price clears most men’s first cars. What you’re paying for is range—linen suit to a coastal wedding one night, swim trunks and a cortado the next morning, correct in both.

$1,150, shop now

Loro Piana Summer Walk Suede Loafer. Loro Piana

Hereu Sastre Suede Pull-On Loafer

Barcelona’s Hereu is the name on every stylist’s summer mood board, and the Sastre is its silhouette of the moment, split cleanly between loafer and espadrille.

$500, shop now

Hereu Sastre Suede Pull-On Loafer. Hereu Studio

Nike x Jacquemus Moon Shoe SP

Simon Porte Jacquemus’ fourth Nike collaboration reaches back to 1972 and the hand-built Moon Shoe that Bill Bowerman pressed into a waffle iron—one of the originals took $437,500 at auction. It comes in three colorways, and the two safe ones—off-white and brown—have already gone to waitlist, which settles the question: take the pale pink, a Jacquemus-exclusive that’s the better summer color, anyway.

$180, shop now

Moon Shoe x Jacquemus. Nike

Marni Fussbett Sabot

The Fussbett—a postwar German orthopedic footbed reborn in dyed pony hair—is the shoe that turned the men’s mule from a dare into a category. Tyler, the Creator wears them; so does half of the guest list at any Frieze iteration. Lean into the color: yellow, fuchsia, deep green, paired with cropped trousers, so nobody mistakes what the outfit is about.

$950, shop now

Marni Fussbett Sabot. Marni

Tod’s Gommino Suede Driving Shoe

The 133 rubber pebbles underfoot have been Tod’s signature since 1986, and the Gommino is having its loudest moment since Princess Diana strode out of a gym in them, carried along by the “Love Story” prep revival. Built unlined and unstructured, it does not require a break-in period nor socks.

$645, shop now

Tod’s Gommino Suede Driving Shoe. Tod's

Bottega Veneta Haddock Intrecciato Leather Loafer

Intrecciato—Bottega’s hand-woven leather—is the logo that refuses to be one, recognizable only to people who already know. The chunky rubber lug sole drags it into 2026 instead of 1996, grounding the weave so it sits right with tailored trousers or a bare ankle and shorts.

$1,600, shop now

Bottega Veneta Haddock Intrecciato Leather Loafer Bottega Veneta

Castañer Pablo Canvas Espadrilles

Castañer has braided jute in La Rioja since 1927 and made the wedge Yves Saint Laurent sent down a runway in 1970, the moment the espadrille left the peasant’s foot for the luxury canon. The Pablo is the unbothered original—canvas upper, braided natural jute, a thin rubber underlay so a city sidewalk doesn’t shred them by August.

$165, shop now

Castañer Pablo Canvas Espadrilles. Castañer

Gucci Horsebit-Embellished Webbing-Trimmed Suede Loafers

The horsebit is the only shoe in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and it’s barely moved in seven decades—Coppola wore them directing The Godfather, A$AP Rocky still wears them to Basel. This version’s trick is the collapsible heel: crush it flat, and the loafer becomes a mule.

$1,090, Shop now

Gucci Horsebit-Embellished Webbing-Trimmed Suede Loafers. Gucci

Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance Made in USA 1300

Teddy Santis has been turning out ALD’s New Balance collabs for half a decade, and each one is collector territory before it ships. The 1300 in navy hairy suede over breathable mesh is the grown-up of the SS26 run—leather-backed “N” logo, cushioned midsole, a golden-yellow heel pop, made in the USA.

$220, shop now

Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance Made in USA 1300. New Balance

Baudoin & Lange Sagan Classic Tassel Loafers

Allan Baudoin began hand-assembling these unlined Belgian-style loafers in London in 2016 and has since gathered a cult following among the men who can discuss welts for an hour. The shoe folds nearly flat and weighs almost nothing, the smartest thing to pack when you don’t yet know how dressed up the trip will get.

$780, shop now

Baudoin & Lange Sagan Classic Tassel. Baudoin & Lange

The Row Canal Leather Slip-On, Black

The Olsens have shaped The Row’s men’s footwear into a tight canon, and the Canal is the dressy slipper-mule at its center—a deconstructed whole-cut in soft nappa, notched tongue, a raised stitch at the toe, and a velvety rubber sole that makes no sound.

$990, shop now

The Row Canal Leather Slip-On. The Row

Brunello Cucinelli Woven Suede Penny Loafer

Hand-woven suede basketweave, a penny slot kept where tradition wants it and a soft rubber sole—all of it Solomeo craftsmanship that doubles as Cucinelli’s religion. This is the Aspen-in-July loafer, made for men who summer at altitude with good espresso.

$1,450, shop now

Brunello Cucinelli Woven Suede Penny Loafer. Brunello Cucinelli

Drake’s Henri Summer Suede Loafers

Drake’s has become the standard-bearer for relaxed tailoring, and the Henri is its warm-weather loafer—unlined Italian suede in a sand-warm tan, a moc-stitched apron toe, built light enough to forget you’ve got it on. This is the one for the wedding that spills onto a lawn, worn with rumpled linen trousers or, for the Drake’s-set move, faded straight-leg jeans and a shell bomber.

$575, shop now

Drake’s Henri Summer Suede Loafers. Drake's

Wales Bonner x Adidas Karintha OG

After five years reworking the Samba, the Japan and the Country into the most coveted sneakers alive, Grace Wales Bonner finally designed something wholly her own. The Karintha—named for the woman in Jean Toomer’s 1923 novel Cane—is a flat, low-profile leather shoe in cream Wonder White with black stripes, a contrast brown T-toe, rope laces and gold-foil branding you have to lean in to catch.

$220, shop now

Wales Bonner x Adidas Karintha OG. Adidas

Paraboot Barth Boat Shoe

The boat shoe earned its bad name. But after a decade of frat-house abuse, the Barth is the redemption. Paraboot has built it on the brand’s Blake stitch since the late ’60s, a hand-sewn construction lifted from Native American moccasins, and the supple, smooth leather on a natural gum sole bears no resemblance to the topsiders of your nightmares.

$240, shop now

Paraboot Barth Boat Shoe. Paraboot
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The Nolita Guide: A Local’s Map to the Best Restaurants, Bars and Shops https://observer.com/list/nolita-new-york-city-neighborhood-guide/ Fri, 05 Jun 2026 14:00:13 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1644879 Six blocks wide, four blocks tall, written in a typography all its own: Nolita is a neighborhood anomaly that ignores Manhattan’s grid system and is better for it. Named streets—Mulberry, Mott, Elizabeth—replace numbers between Houston and Kenmare, Bowery and Lafayette. Federal-era row houses lean into narrow tenements with their original cornices still bolted on, while stunted London planes throw shade onto sidewalks barely wide enough to pass a stroller.

Despite its storied roots, the name itself is a 1990s real estate fabrication. Brokers stitched “NOrth of Little ITAly” together in the mid-’90s to describe the wedge that had drifted from the old immigrant neighborhood after Italian families moved to Bensonhurst and Long Island, and Chinatown pushed north. The Times documented the moniker in November 1996, calling it Nabokovian, and by 1998, the rebrand was already moving prices.

What the rebrand didn’t cover up was four centuries of accumulated weight. Joseph-François Mangin—the same architect who drew City Hall—designed the Basilica of St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral in 1809, 50 years before the Fifth Avenue version got commissioned. Martin Scorsese grew up in a third-floor walk-up on Elizabeth Street and once described the cathedral roof as “God’s point of view.” Sicilian and Neapolitan immigrants packed Mulberry tenements in the 1880s. The Puck Building rose in 1885 with two gilded statues of Shakespeare’s sprite still scolding pedestrians from the corners. The 1909 Beaux-Arts Police Headquarters at 240 Centre Street processed every NYPD officer in the city until 1973, then became the address where Calvin Klein and Cindy Crawford kept apartments.

Today, the neighborhood is at a détente. Fourth-generation butchers work blocks from Korean noodle bars opening this May. Michelin-starred kitchens hide behind Mulberry storefronts you’d walk past. The Feast of San Gennaro turns 100 this September. Elizabeth Street Garden survived a decade-long eviction fight last fall and entered a new political phase under the incoming mayor in January. McNally Jackson’s flagship moved to SoHo in 2023 (it was really just a six-block move west on Prince Street, but still). Café Gitane and its infamous avocado toast—a paragon of early aughts food Instagrams—shuttered in December after 30 years, with no warning. None of this has dulled the place. It’s still one of the few corners of Manhattan where you can stumble onto a Prohibition tunnel, a fourth-generation cheesemonger handing you a number or a hidden courtyard you didn’t know you were looking for, even when you’re following a guide.

Where to Eat

Estela

  • 47 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10012

Ignacio Mattos has held the star and the room for a decade-plus, which in downtown years is a small geological era. The endive salad with walnuts and Ubriaco rosso is the kind of dish you order without consulting the menu. Same for the ricotta dumplings under raw mushroom and the burrata toast that launched a thousand imitations. Late-night at the bar is when the room turns over to industry—the people on the stools beside you are usually working dinner shifts elsewhere.

Estela. Estela

The Musket Room

  • 265 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012

Owners Jennifer and Nicole Vitagliano run a Michelin-starred Elizabeth Street townhouse with a creative team composed entirely of women: chef Mary Attea and pastry chef Onika Brown. The omnivore tasting is the destination; the vegan tasting is the one critics have admitted they prefer. The bar takes walk-ins, which is where Pete Wells once observed the actual energy radiates from. Best back garden in Nolita, and that’s not damning by faint praise.

The Musket Room. Emily Andrews

Rubirosa

  • 235 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

The Pappalardos have run this corner since 2009. AJ opened it as a tribute to his father Joe’s Staten Island pizzeria, Joe & Pat’s. After AJ died unexpectedly in 2015, his sister Maria stepped in beside their father and chef Albert Di Meglio, and the place has somehow gotten better—a sentence that should be impossible to write about a room that turns this many tables. Order the Tie-Dye pizza: vodka, marinara and pesto on a thin crust from a 57-year-old family recipe. Then the vodka rigatoni. Then a Negroni and the chocolate budino, in that order, even though no one asked.

Rubirosa. Rubirosa

Café Habana

  • 17 Prince Street, New York, NY 10012

Sean Meenan opened this Cuban-Mexican corner in 1998 in a former Dominican diner. Twenty-eight years later, the grilled corn—slicked with cotija, mayo, lime and chili—has not budged from the top of the order list, and neither has the Cubano, which arrives pressed flat enough to slip under a door.

Café Habana. Café Habana

Boni & Mott

  • 238 Mott Street, New York, NY 10012

Algeria-born Mehdi Mokrani opened this Mediterranean spot with his brother, Foued and cousin, Salim Ben, in 2024. Menu standouts include citrus-glazed lamb chops with amba marinade, half chicken under ras el hanout and mussels with green apple and chorizo, which sounds like a dare and lands like a thesis. The wallpaper, by neighborhood artist Pili Weeber, is a hand-drawn catalog of local landmarks: Katz’s, Elizabeth Street Garden, Thai Diner.

Boni & Mott. Boni & Mott

Jeju Noodle Bar

  • 204 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012

Douglas Kim’s West Village original was the first noodle restaurant in America to win a Michelin star—a sentence that aged better than most 2019 sentences. The Nolita version opens in May 2026 with a Korean comfort menu built around ramyun and a handful of dishes you won’t find at the original. Walking past the construction this spring, the buildout looks more ambitious than the West Village space ever was.

Jeju Noodle Bar. Jeju Noodle Bar

Where to Drink

The Mulberry

  • 240 Mulberry Street, Lower Level, New York, NY 10012

The basement under Rubirosa, opened in 2023 by Phil Meynell, Leo Jacob and Justin Sievers, has filled the see-and-be-seen vacancy that Pravda left when it shuttered. Come for caviar service, dirty martinis with the brine pulled forward and murals by Emelie Törling. The DJ booth that runs past midnight will keep you there.

The Mulberry. Shane Drummond/BFA.com

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

  • 249 Centre Street, New York, NY 10013

The New York outpost of the Paris original opened in 2015 and is perhaps downtown’s most serious wine room, offering a thousand-plus bottles and about 30 by the glass, and a toad-in-the-hole locals order without looking up. Experimental Cocktail Club reopened directly below it in 2025, which means you can ladder from a serious wine room to a serious cocktail room without crossing a sidewalk.

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels. La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

Spring Lounge

  • 48 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012

Known to its lifers as the Shark Bar—fiberglass sharks bolted to the walls, 1920s growler-shop bones, 12 craft taps. Free hot dogs on Wednesdays at 5 p.m; free bagels on Sunday afternoons. The doors swing at 8 a.m. and don’t shut until 4 a.m. The morning shift feels uniquely New York City: contractors before site, off-shift bartenders before bed, the occasional novelist before deadline.

Spring Lounge. Spring Lounge

Mother’s Ruin

  • 18 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012

Mother’s Ruin is open 11 a.m. to 4 a.m., every day. A frozen-cocktail slushie machine churns whatever the bar program is feeling. Menu items include a French onion soup grilled cheese and a Bronx No Resolutions that has outlasted three vodka trends. The kitchen runs until 11:30 p.m., which is why this is where the industry actually ends up after the industry’s official afterparty.

Mother’s Ruin. Mother's Ruin

Onieal’s Grand Street

  • 174 Grand Street, New York, NY 10013

Chris Onieal opened this 19th-century building as a cocktail bar in 1995. The Tammany Hall-era Prohibition tunnel that once connected the basement to the old Police Headquarters across Centre Street is now the wine cellar—not a metaphor, an actual brick passage with a key. Aiden and Steve’s “Scout Bar” in Sex and the City, for the small percentage of you who needed that note.

Onieal’s. Onieal's

Where to Shop

Aimé Leon Dore

  • 224 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

Teddy Santis founded ALD in 2014, opened the original Mott store in 2016 and turned this Mulberry flagship into the gravitational center of modern Nolita after the 2023 renovation. The vintage Porsche 356 inside has its own Instagram following, which is a sentence that says something about either the car or the audience or both. Café Leon Dore next door pours an espresso the staff calls the “two one four.”

Aimé Leon Dore. Aimé Leon Dore

Madhappy

  • 207 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

The L.A. mental-health-forward label opened its first New York flagship late last year, debuting 1,800 square feet across two floors of blue-dyed concrete and Douglas fir, designed by PlayLab Inc. The ground-floor café, the Pantry, partners with Hotel Drugs for Japanese coffee, Sofreh for Persian baked goods and Tom’s Juice. NYC-exclusive merch leans Yankees, Mets and Lucali—a trifecta that implies a brand strategist who rides the train.

Madhappy. Madhappy

Brain Dead

  • 202 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012

Kyle Ng and Ed Davis opened the L.A. collective’s first New York store in May 2025. The hippo sculpture inside is a sibling to the one at their Dover Street Market L.A. outpost—make of that what you will. Streetwear with graphics sharper than ALD’s prep aesthetic and a customer base that overlaps less than the block radius would suggest.

Brain Dead Studios. Brain Dead Studios

Albanese Meats & Poultry

  • 238 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012

Vincenzo and Mary Albanese opened this butcher shop in 1923. Coppola installed the now-faded red sign as set dressing for The Godfather Part III, and the family kept it, because of course they did. Longtime owner Moe Albanese died in 2020, but his granddaughter, Jennifer Prezioso, runs it solo now, Monday through Saturday, noon to 6 p.m. Original 1940s tile floor, original butcher block, original methods. Prezioso got married inside Elizabeth Street Garden in 2024—locals call her the unofficial mayor of the block.

Albanese Meats & Poultry. Albanese Meats & Poultry

Goods for the Study

  • 234 and 236 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

Sarah McNally’s stationery spinoff sprawls across two adjacent storefronts: one for paper and desk goods, one for pens and inks, both open noon to 8 p.m. daily. The McNally Jackson flagship that defined Nolita literary life moved to SoHo in 2023 after a 136 percent rent hike—a number worth pausing on—which makes Goods for the Study the under-the-radar standard-bearer for the neighborhood’s bookish identity. Pick up a Blackwing 602 and a Midori notebook and pretend you’ve been writing all along.

Goods For The Study. Goods For The Study

Di Palo’s Fine Foods

  • 200 Grand Street, New York, NY 10013

The Di Palos have been selling cheese on this corner since 1925, with origins in a 1910 latteria a few doors down. Lou, Marie and Sal Di Palo run the front, while the fifth generation runs the Enoteca next door. Lou flies to Italy multiple times a year to source, and will tell you why the pecorino he just got off a plane is the one you want, in a soliloquy that’s worth the wait, whether you’re buying or not.

Di Palo’s Fine Foods. Di Palo's Fine Foods

What to Do

Visit Elizabeth Street Garden

  • 209 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012

The one-acre L-shaped sculpture garden between Prince and Spring is open and saved—for now. The late Allan Reiver built it; his son Joseph runs the nonprofit. After a decade of legal trench warfare over a proposed senior-housing project, the Adams administration designated the lot as official city parkland in November 2025. The developers sued. Mayor Mamdani took office in January, conceded that housing on the site is “nearly impossible,” and his Open New York allies have pledged to undo the parkland designation this year. Open daily, free, with 150-plus public events annually. Patti Smith performed “People Have the Power” at the Olmsted Brothers gazebo last April.

Elizabeth Street Garden. Elizabeth Street Garden

Tour the Catacombs at the Basilica of St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral

  • 263 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

Mangin’s 1815 Gothic Revival cathedral—designed by the same architect who drew City Hall—served as the seat of the Archdiocese of New York until the Fifth Avenue successor opened in 1879. The 1866 fire gutted the interior; the rebuild added the cast-iron columns still in place. Pope Benedict XVI designated it a minor basilica in 2010. The catacombs underneath—35 family crypts and five clerical vaults holding Delmonicos, a Civil War general and the Tammany boss “Honest John” Kelly—opened to public tours run by Tommy’s New York.

Basilica of St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral Catacombs. Tommy's Tours

See the New Museum’s New Wing

  • 235 Bowery, New York, NY 10002

The contemporary-art institution on Nolita’s eastern edge reopened in March after a two-year closure, and the OMA-designed seven-story expansion is the biggest cultural news the neighborhood has had in a decade. Shohei Shigematsu and Rem Koolhaas designed the 60,000-square-foot annex with executive architect Cooper Robertson; the laminated-glass façade with metal-mesh interlayer roughly doubles gallery space. Tschabalala Self’s four-story relief Art Lovers anchors the “kiss point” between buildings, while the inaugural show, New Humans: Memories of the Future, runs through summer with 150-plus artists.

New Museum. New Museum

Stop by Storefront for Art and Architecture

  • 97 Kenmare Street, New York, NY 10012

The 1993 Steven Holl and Vito Acconci pivoting-panel façade is a contemporary architectural landmark in its own right—nearly 100 feet of tapering triangular space whose hinged walls swing open onto Kenmare like a Calder mobile that someone learned to weld. Founded in 1982 by Kyong Park, Storefront has been a launching pad for downtown architectural thinking for over four decades. Pair with a New Museum visit; it’s a five-minute walk and a useful palate cleanser between the two scales of building.

Storefront for Art and Architecture. Storefront NYC
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The Most Exciting New European Hotels for Escaping the Usual Summer Suspects https://observer.com/list/best-new-european-hotels-for-summer/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 18:12:41 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1652271 You have probably already decided where you are going this summer, or at least told yourself you have. The flights to the same islands are booked, the villa someone’s cousin swears by is half-paid, and the group chat has once again deadlocked over whether to do Ibiza for the third summer running. This is the moment when the plan quietly hardens into last year’s. So consider this your permission slip to defect. The hotels opening across Europe this year are not in the places your feed keeps serving you, and they are pointedly not the ones a certain prestige drama has already turned into a six-month waitlist.

They are 40 miles off the Norwegian coast, where the sun forgets to set and the granite comes straight out of the sea. They are in Comporta’s pine and rice country, in a Maltese village no one can find without a postcode, on a Capri lane above the scrum the day-trippers never bother to climb past. A few were somebody’s house first and still behave like it, from a baroness’s folly to a palazzo that a family spent five years coaxing back to life. What unites them is harder to book than a sea view: the sense that the building could exist nowhere else. It’s the standard Olga Polizzi has spent three decades chasing across Rocco Forte hotels. “If you’re in Munich, you should wake up and feel as if you’re in Munich; if you’re in Sicily, wake up and feel as if you’re in Sicily,” she tells Observer. The hotels that flunk that test could be airlifted between continents unnoticed. The ones below could not.

Not one of these is angling to be the trophy already clogging your saved folder. They are the trip you have not thought of yet—which, this deep into a summer that was supposed to be settled, is the only kind worth taking. Fourteen of them, below.

Zannier Île de Bendor

  • Île de Bendor, 83150 Bandol, France

Paul Ricard, the pastis magnate, bought this scrap of Mediterranean rock off Bandol in 1950 and spent decades indulging a private Provençal fantasy on it, museum of wine and spirits included. The private island floats a seven-minute boat ride from the Riviera, yet runs on some entirely separate clock, an arithmetic Zannier has always grasped more shrewdly than the competition. Because Ricard built it to please nobody but himself, it never carried the stink of a development, and as a hotel it delivers something close to extinct along this coast: an island answering to one mind, too self-assured to bellow about it across a marina jammed with charter yachts.

Zannier Île de Bendor. Zannier Hotels

Saint Clement

  • 7 Arundel Street, London, WC2R 3DA, United Kingdom

Nick Jones built Soho House into a membership empire across three continents, then handed back the keys in 2022, and the obvious question was what a man like that does for an encore. Saint Clement is the answer. It occupies a hushed stretch of Arundel Street between the Strand and the river, a few doors from his old 180 House flagship and directly above the Corner Shop 180 deli he opened last June. The new venture, Jones & Co., fills it with 90 bedrooms, 15 loft apartments for the longer-stay crowd, a rooftop restaurant and a gym. There is no membership, no application and no one to decide you are not quite right for the room, which, from the man who spent two decades monetizing the velvet rope, is the genuine plot twist.

Saint Clement. Saint Clement

Conrad Athens The Ilisian

  • Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 46, 11528 Athens, Greece

Athens gets 48 hours and an Acropolis selfie before everyone bolts for the ferry, and the Conrad exists to sabotage that itinerary. It opened 63 years to the day after Jacqueline Kennedy turned up for the Hilton Athens debut in 1963, on a stretch of Vasilissis Sofias that has hosted the city’s social machinery ever since. Hilton stripped the modernist landmark by Emmanuel Vourekas and his collaborators down to its frame, sparing the Yiannis Moralis façade reliefs, a Cubist frieze of Greek myth too good to demolish. The reborn version trades bulk for breathing room: 278 rooms where 506 once crammed in, the upper floors carved into residences, plus the largest outdoor pool in Athens and nine places to eat and drink.

Conrad Athens The Ilisian. Conrad Athens The Ilisian

Henrik’s Hotel

  • Studiestræde 57, 1554 Copenhagen, Denmark

In 1969, Aase and Jørgen Henrik Hildebrandt bought a Copenhagen building for a car-rental business and stumbled sideways into hospitality, which is a more charming origin than most hotels can claim. More than 50 years on, the family has named its fourth property after the patriarch, and the sentiment is doing real work. Henrik’s keeps 44 rooms on Studiestræde, a vintage shop-filled street near Tivoli Gardens that once marked the old city gate, and the interiors run tactile and dollhouse-precise, all warm wood and deliberately low light. There is a fireplace in the lobby and two bars, plus the pillow menus and blackout drapes the Hildebrandts have spent decades refining across their Ascot, Wide and Hypernym hotels.

Henrik’s Hotel. Henrik's Hotel

Villa Helios

  • Via Croce 4, 80073 Capri, Italy

Baroness Barbara Margaretha von Salis Marschlins (better known as Meta von Salis) was a Swiss writer who corresponded with Rilke and Nietzsche, and in 1904, she built herself a Capri house that could not decide whether it was Liberty or Moorish and settled the matter by being both. Crenelated towers, horseshoe arches and cream façades stack above La Piazzetta in Via Croce, architectural indecision that only looks like vision once a century has gone by. Capri has never been short on glamour, only on addresses with a rich backstory, and while the masses funnel through the Piazzetta, photographing each other, the baroness left behind something far more bewitching than anything a brand could invent.

Villa Helios. Villa Helios

Tierras Villas

  • Mononaftis, Agia Pelagia, 715 00 Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Crete spent years as Greece’s reliable second-tier getaway—the island you finally visit once Santorini and Mykonos have worn you out, and the family behind Omicron Hotels has wagered that the reputation is an asset rather than a consolation prize. Tierras Villas, opening this July along the coast at Agia Pelagia near Heraklion, is where that pays off. There are only five villas, each named for one of the five elements and built around it, with the design by Manos Kipritidis holding a hard line: Cretan stone and raw wood, low horizontals that follow the hillside rather than fight it, the Aegean left to do its own work just beyond the terrace.

Tierras Villas. Tierras Villas

Casa Laveni

  • Via dei Bossi 5, 20121 Milan, Italy

Milan times its hotel openings to Salone del Mobile the way other cities time them to nothing in particular, so Casa Laveni surfaced in April, mid-pilgrimage, inside a restored neoclassical palazzo in Brera. The 30 rooms come from developer Bohopo with interiors by Delogu Architecture and Studio Sacchi Architetti, who took the surrealist route of sky-blue palettes and a sense of humor that most Milanese design is far too self-serious to risk. The building once belonged to Giuseppe Laveni, an engineer rather than the architect the early press releases insisted on, and in a city that does not forgive a sloppy attribution, the correction matters.

Casa Laveni. Kasia Gatkowska

The Carlton, a Rocco Forte Hotel

  • Via Senato, 5, 20121 Milan, Italy

In a fashion district where Giorgio Armani built his own hotel and Bulgari handed the keys to Antonio Citterio, Rocco Forte made the least obvious move on the block: a family operation, a residential design firm, and roughly $65 million spent making you forget you are in a hotel at all. The Carlton reopened last November in a charmless 1963 building that Olga Polizzi gutted without sentiment. “Hand on heart, this time there wasn’t anything I would have kept,” she says of the Baglioni-era bones, all low ceilings and dark, undersized rooms. The 71 keys now reference Gio Ponti and Milanese sobriety, the wall patterns hand-painted by the San Patrignano workshop.

The Carlton. Rocco Forte Hotels

Casa Bonavita

  • 147 Triq San Anton, Attard, ATD, 1285, Malta

Christopher and Suzanne Sharp founded The Rug Company, so a five-year restoration of an 18th-century palazzo from these two was never going to skimp on what hangs on the walls or covers the floors. They chose Attard, one of Malta’s quaint “Three Villages” between Mdina and Valletta, which is exactly where a casual visitor would never think to look. The 17 rooms and suites come with two pools and a spa whose hammam, sauna, cold plunge and Moroccan-tiled treatment rooms suggest the Sharps were not interested in half-measures, all overseen by Suzanne Sharp Studio in London.

Casa Bonavita. Casa Bonavita

Casa Cedo

  • Rua de Cedofeita 389, 4050-178 Porto, Portugal

You enter Casa Cedo through a flower shop, which also functions as reception and sells ceramics, coffee and Byredo fragrances, a sequence of small ambushes that tells you the Irish-Italian owners have thought harder about arrival than most hotels think about anything. Behind it wait just eight rooms in a 19th-century townhouse on the main drag of Cedofeita, Porto’s gallery-and-vintage quarter, with interiors by Lisbon’s Quiet Studios and a garden by Toni Sastre.

Casa Cedo. Casa Cedo

Sublime Sand

  • EN 261-1, Muda, 7570-337 Grândola, Portugal

Sublime Sand is founder Gonçalo Pessoa’s expansion of the original Sublime Comporta, three times the footprint and considerably less coy about what it wants to be. The 43 villas come with private pools across 42 acres, and the new dining roster makes the ambitions plain, anchored by a Beefbar and a Davvero imported from Sublime Lisboa, plus a nightclub called Ruína that claims to be Comporta’s first. An Aqua social hub folds in indoor-outdoor pools, a hammam and a cold plunge, while a Forum events space opens onto an amphitheater. Everyone insists on calling it the Hamptons of Portugal, which rather gives away the secret. It is now officially out.

Sublime Comporta. Sublime Comporta

Luura Cliff

  • Agia Irini (Agia Eirini), 844 00 Paros, Greece

Hotel operator Morgans Originals practically invented the boutique hotel in 1984, so its first Greek venture, choosing Paros over the obvious islands, doubles as a tip on the country’s emerging hot spot. The 39 cliffside suites perch above the bay of Agia Irini on the tamer western coast, many with private pools and uninterrupted sightlines to Antiparos and a sunset Mykonos would charge a cover for. Elastic Architects shaped the whitewashed village forms; Berlin’s cult studio Lambs and Lions did the interiors, and the restaurants arrive with real pedigree in Mimi Kakushi and La Cantine du Faubourg.

Luura Cliff. Luura Cliff

La Villa Colette

  • 39 Boulevard de la Plage, 33970 Lège-Cap-Ferret, France

A geography note before anything else, since the names trip up everyone: this is Cap Ferret, the pine-and-dune peninsula on the Atlantic near Bordeaux, not Cap Ferrat on the Riviera, and the distinction is the entire personality. While the Riviera spends August bumper to bumper in linen, the peninsula trades on oysters and a near-religious absence of glamour, which is exactly why the Parisian set decamps here to not dress for dinner. Villa Colette is the first five-star hotel that the place has ever had, and also the debut beyond Paris for Laurent Taïeb’s Utopik Collection.

La Villa Colette. La Villa Colette

Ytri

  • Husøy, 8770 Træna, Norway

The Træna archipelago sits 40 miles off the Norwegian mainland, on the Arctic Circle, home to roughly 450 people and a fishing tradition older than the country itself. Ytri, whose name means outermost in Old Norse, opened in April on the island of Husøy with 38 rooms beneath the granite spike of Trænstaven. Architect studio Vardehaugen angled the timber-and-glass building toward the light and the water, and there is a wood-fired sauna and a lounge built specifically for watching the aurora come down. You reach the Relais & Châteaux property by plane and then boat, on the islands’ own schedule, which weeds out anyone whose idea of remote is a resort with a spotty signal.

Ytri Norway. Ytri Norway
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How to Watch the FIFA World Cup in New York Like a Local, Beyond MetLife https://observer.com/list/where-to-watch-world-cup-2026-new-york-city/ Tue, 02 Jun 2026 15:03:23 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1652175 The World Cup Final is coming to the New York region, but the real spectacle was never going to be confined to the stadium. For one month, the tournament turns the city into a moving festival of national identity, hospitality economics, fashion peacocking, neighborhood ritual and logistical brinkmanship, all layered atop the usual New York performance of trying to appear blithely effortless while visibly overheating.

The first serious New York pitch for a World Cup final happened in a Midtown steakhouse in 2009, when a delegation of civic boosters gathered around a long table at Smith & Wollensky and set about convincing FIFA that the region could stage the largest sporting event on earth without collapsing into its customary tri-state psychodrama. Sixteen years later, the final arrives at MetLife on July 19. The tournament runs from June 11 through July 19, with 48 teams, 104 matches and eight games at the venue, temporarily—and not especially convincingly—rechristened “New York New Jersey Stadium.” FIFA got the tournament and New York got the atmosphere. Those are different products, and only one of them requires a ticket. 

Ahead, a version that survived a summer’s worth of vetting. The inside-the-stadium math is brutal and quickly dispatched: Official hospitality packages run from four figures into the high five, and the most expensive tier in the entire tournament is being sold right here. The far more rewarding month happens everywhere else, on rooftops, behind the unmarked doors of members’ clubs, along the immigrant corridors that have always treated a match as a community event and out in the beach towns where the watch party is practically a native art form. Here’s what you can look forward to.

The Stadium-Side Arms Race: What You’re Actually Buying

Nobody needs convincing that the stadium is the center of gravity. The real question is how much humiliation your expense account can absorb to sit inside it. On Location handles FIFA’s official hospitality packages, and the escalation is swift. The Pavilion is the threshold tier, a shared lounge and upgraded seat for people unwilling to spend halftime pressed against a beer line beside a dude painted entirely in Dutch orange. Champions Club and Trophy Lounge move into private entrances, plated service and stemware optimistic enough to survive extra time. Pitchside Lounge gets truly absurd in the best possible way: field-level couches a few yards off the touchline, close enough to hear tactical instructions ricochet between accents. The MetLife Venue Series, covering all eight regional matches plus the final, starts around $8,275 per person and climbs beyond $68,000. Single-match suites begin near $43,000, while full boxes veer into six-figure territory more commonly associated with art fairs and discreet tax jurisdictions. None of it includes parking, because there is no general parking at MetLife on match days. The shuttle from Port Authority is effectively the only civilized option, and even that requires a ticket. FIFA, naturally, has monetized scarcity with the efficiency of a luxury conglomerate.

The Fan Zone Queens. The Fan Zone Queens

The Hotels Doing the Most

New York hotels have approached the tournament the way fashion houses approach Cannes, with varying degrees of admiration and awe. The Peninsula New York abandoned both immediately. Its World Cup package includes two suites, five nights, chauffeured transfers, private shopping appointments and in-room viewing setups. The rate for July 14 through 19 is up to $500,000 for two guests, which places it somewhere between oligarch wedding logistics and sovereign-wealth off-site retreat. More egalitarian—ironic for a members’ club—is Soho House Meatpacking, which is hosting opening-week screenings, rotating menus tied to competing nations and a final-weekend takeover centered around a still-unannounced performer. Members can reserve private screening rooms for hosted dinners, where the real tournament economy emerges, away from branded fan zones and activation jargon. At the more survivable end of the market, Moxy’s “Summer of Soccer” package bundles welcome cocktails, daily credits and transportation to matches for travelers who would rather spend money on the city than on imported marble bathrooms.

The Peninsula Hotel. The Peninsula Hotel

The Restaurants Cooking by Country

For six weeks, New York’s restaurant scene will reorganize itself around flags, kickoff times and national anxiety. Along Roosevelt Avenue, taquerías will rearrange entire dining rooms around El Tri fixtures with greater operational competence than most consulting firms. A few places warrant reservations well in advance. For a Mexico match, the table to book is Cuerno, I AM Hospitality’s Mexican chophouse at Rockefeller Center on Avenue of the Americas at 50th—a literal block from the Telemundo Fan Village, the city’s World Cup epicenter. Founder Alberto Martínez and executive chef Oriol Mendívil deal in mezcal and open flame at a volume that holds its own against a plaza full of green jerseys, so the room absorbs the El Tri overflow without anyone losing the roar outside.

In Long Island City, Beija Flor has operated for more than a decade as New York’s unofficial Brazilian clubhouse, fueled by caipirinhas, samba and watch parties calibrated directly to the scoreline. Nearby, Point Brazil is the deeper cut: Bahian sisters Elzi and Erli Botelho Ribeiro have been serving feijoada beneath Globo broadcasts since 2008, while tables debate defensive shape with parliamentary seriousness. For Argentina, the center remains Boca Juniors in Elmhurst, where devotion to the Buenos Aires club borders on municipal governance. Match days dissolve into parrillada smoke, drum lines and Messi-level catharsis before halftime even arrives.

Cuerno New York. Cuerno New York

The Bars That Earn Their Place

Most bars suddenly calling themselves soccer bars this summer are participating in a seasonal identity crisis, but two places genuinely matter. Football Factory at Legends on West 33rd Street remains the city’s foundational institution, a basement-level cathedral to televised football with more than 100 matches shown weekly and upwards of 30 supporters’ clubs cycling through the room. Founder Jack Keane more or less built modern New York soccer culture at Nevada Smith’s before transplanting it here. Smithfield Hall on West 25th Street is the city’s only purpose-built soccer bar, outfitted with 26 indoor screens and another eight across a heated terrace. The place brands itself as “the home of football in New York City,” which would normally sound insufferable if it were not substantially true. Both venues also serve as hubs for the St. George’s Society of New York’s official England and Scotland watch series, a surprisingly civilized arrangement from a charitable organization founded in 1770. Humans will invent centuries-old institutions for almost anything except fixing Penn Station.

Smithfield Hall NYC. Smithfield Hall NYC

Queens Will Host the Real Tournament

For all the money circling Manhattan, the emotional center of this thing will be Queens, as it always is. The borough is the most globally diverse county in the United States, and for six weeks, it effectively becomes a set of embassy annexes with table service. The Mexico corridor spans from Sunnyside through Jackson Heights, where the taquerías along Roosevelt Avenue will outperform every branded FIFA activation in volume, atmosphere and food by a margin that isn’t close. Senegal matches—France on June 16 and Norway on June 22, both at MetLife—will send celebrations spilling through Little Senegal on 116th Street and stretches of the South Bronx long after the official programming has cut the lights. On any diaspora night, arrive before kickoff and let the vibe of the block, rather than the reservation, set the agenda.

MetLife Stadium. Myron Mott/Unsplash

The Beer Gardens and Dance Parties

The schedule was practically drawn up for a New York July: kickoffs at 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 p.m. push the whole tournament onto terraces and into gardens. Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden in Astoria, run by the Bohemian Citizens’ Benevolent Society since 1910, remains the category leader and one of the last places in the city where mass sports viewing still feels old-school communal—Czech pilsners in heavy mugs, schnitzels at picnic tables, Croatia supporters growing louder by the half. Over at Sports Illustrated Stadium in Harrison, the Jersey Fan Hub pairs a 60-foot pitch-level screen with a concert series that turns match days into dance parties: DJ Snake and Justice for France-Senegal on June 16, Kygo with Kaleo for Norway-Senegal on June 22. And Governor Hochul’s temporary loosening of State Liquor Authority outdoor-service rules matters more than it sounds—bars can expand into adjacent space for the duration, effectively granting the city permission to behave Mediterranean for six weeks. Overdue, frankly.

Bohemian Hall. Clayton Cotterell

The Rooftops Worth the Elevator

A steamy July kickoff at 4 p.m. rewards altitude and airflow, and a handful of roofs sit at the right intersection of sightline, scene and screen. Bar Blondeau at Wythe Hotel and the fourth-floor terrace at The William Vale both deliver Williamsburg skyline-and-screen overlap without tipping into sports-bar chaos. The Hoxton Williamsburg rooftop runs a looser, lower-key version of the same. Magic Hour at Moxy Times Square is the most explicitly programmed of the Marriott “Summer of Soccer” properties and the only true Midtown roof that’s gone all in. For the Italy fixtures, Eataly’s Birreria—both the World Trade Center location and the Flatiron original—installs screens for major tournaments and is the closest the city comes to Milan during the group stage. None of these requires a stadium ticket, and all of them improve considerably once the late-afternoon light hits the glass.

Westlight The William Vale Rooftop. The William Vale

The Free Map and the Westchester Loophole

Liberty State Park is off—the Fan Festival there was scrapped in February—but the official footprint is sprawling and, in places, free. The Telemundo Fan Village at Rockefeller Center runs July 6 through 19 as the Manhattan flagship: the ice rink becomes a temporary pitch with large-format screens, the Channel Gardens become a “Champions’ Garden” honoring the eight nations that have ever lifted the trophy, and Top of the Rock has been designated the official NYNJ Viewpoint with priority entry to the Hyundai-presented “Legacies of Champions” exhibition. The Fan Zone Queens at the Billie Jean King National Tennis Center runs June 17 through 28, with 10,000 capacity, $10 admission and the best food of any official zone by virtue of geography alone. Brooklyn Bridge Park hosts a fan zone on select dates, with the most photogenic free skyline in the city as a backdrop. And Governor Hochul has booked two free state-run viewings: Stony Brook on June 12 for the U.S. opener, and Kensico Dam Plaza in Westchester for the final itself. The Kensico event is the way to go for any household north of the city that wants the communal version of the day without the drive south or the price of a couch at MetLife.

FIFA NYNJ World Cup 26 and Telemundo Fan Village. FIFA
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18 Hotels That Make Sport the Destination, Not the Amenity https://observer.com/list/best-luxury-hotels-outdoor-sports-tourism/ Fri, 29 May 2026 16:55:37 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1643708 The way people pack for a trip has changed—and we’re not just talking about fashion microtrends. Ten years ago, a two-week stay in Paris meant jackets, loafers and one pair of shoes that could pass for running. Now the suitcase is half Lululemon, half low-profile trainers, because the run along the Canal Saint-Martin has been mapped and the hit at the Racing Club de France is on the calendar. Sports tourism is projected to reach roughly $928 billion in 2026, per Grand View Research—no longer simply the business of men with golf bags. It’s women in Sardinia on 80-mile gravel rides; fathers and daughters learning to fly-cast on the Madison; the padel court going up behind a Hamptons hedge. The pickleball league that has taken over Palm Beach on Tuesday nights. Wellness was the industry’s last decade; sport is this one.

The average vacation used to end with a book half-finished and a spa voucher unused. Now, for a certain type of traveler, it ends with an athletic lesson booked for the next morning. Guests arrive having pre-read the course architect, the head pro, the coach’s bio, and the previous season’s race results. They show up in kit; they ask specific questions at check-in. Hotel concierges who spent a decade recommending restaurants now keep dossiers on tee times, tide charts and bike-fit specialists. The logic is simple: a week off should leave a person better than it found them, not worse. The logistics have caught up, too. Activewear packs a third smaller than the wardrobe it replaced, which means one carry-on now holds a tennis week. Spring’s finally here, so book something that makes you work for it.

Adare Manor

  • Adare, Co. Limerick V94 W8WR, Ireland

There are maybe a hundred people alive who can say they played Adare the year before a Ryder Cup (the property hosts the tournament in 2027), and now, that number is expected to roughly double. Resort guests have priority on the course through the 2027 season, and the rest of the world has been politely redirected. You walk out to the first tee at 8 a.m., before the groundskeepers have lifted the dew, and the fiber-optic cable is already laid under the fairway for the cameras that won’t arrive for another 18 months. The starters call you “sir” in a way that suggests they know exactly what you paid to be there. There’s water on 14 of 18. Tom Fazio’s 2018 redesign of the original Robert Trent Jones Sr. layout holds up on the bentgrass. Luke Donald’s boot prints might already be somewhere on the back nine, and by October, so are yours.

Adare Manor Jack Hardy

Guarda Golf Hôtel & Résidences

  • Rte des Zirès 14, 3963 Crans-Montana, Switzerland

The Severiano Ballesteros Course sits nearly a mile up in the Valais Alps, and when you mishit a 7-iron at that altitude, the ball keeps going until you stop being embarrassed. Guarda is a two-minute walk from the first tee. The DP World Tour shows up the first week of September for the Omega European Masters, and for a few afternoons, the hotel lobby fills with caddies and Trackmans and someone’s wife holding a glass of Fendant at 11 a.m. The rest of the summer, the mountain belongs to the breed of golfer who believes oxygen is a swing aid. The concierge will get you an 8:12 a.m. tee time if you ask twice.

Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences. Fabrice Rambert

The American Club at Destination Kohler

  • 419 Highland Dr, Kohler, WI 53044

Whistling Straits looks like someone relocated the Irish coast to Lake Michigan and forgot to tell anyone. Pete Dye designed it that way on purpose in 1998, and the 2021 Ryder Cup made sure nobody mistook it for a Midwest muni. Blackwolf Run is 10 minutes inland along the Sheboygan River—the sister 36 where the 1998 U.S. Women’s Open took 20 holes to decide. In between, you’re staying at a 1918 brick dormitory built for the European immigrants who made the company’s bathtubs, which is both a true sentence and the least convincing thing anyone has ever said about a place with four Pete Dye courses and a working sporting-clays preserve. Order a fish boil, then take the long way back to the room.

The American Club at Destination Kohler. The American Club at Destination Kohler

Verdura Resort, a Rocco Forte Hotel

  • SS 115 KM 131, Contrada Verdura, 92019 Sciacca AG, Italy

The six clay courts at Verdura sit in a groove between olive orchards and orange groves, and in May, the whole resort smells like the blossoms have conspired against you. Certified coaches are on staff year-round, which means the 10 a.m. hit isn’t a resort hit—it’s a resort hit run by someone who has drilled French juniors. Padel on two more courts, pickleball on one, and Juventus runs a football academy down the road when the Italian kids are on summer break. Kyle Phillips designed the two 18-hole golf courses running to the Mediterranean. Book the sea-facing suites—designers Paolo Moschino and and Philip Vergeylen redid them this year, and the new upholstery is the correct shade of faded coral.

Verdura Resort, a Rocco Forte Hotel. Verdura Resort, a Rocco Forte Hotel

Nihi Sumba

  • Nihiwatu Beach, Wanokaka, West Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia

Nihi caps Occy’s Left at 15 surfers a day. The wave takes its name from Mark Occhilupo, the Australian world champ who paddled out once and called it among the best he’d ever ridden. Today, access requires a villa key and most mornings the lineup is half full. Tropicsurf runs the coaching, the same crew as Four Seasons Punta Mita (more on that below). Beyond the wave, Sandalwood Stables turns its Sumba ponies loose onto 1.5 miles of private beach at first light, and you can ride them through the shore break or up jungle trails toward what the staff calls buffalo traffic jams.

Nihi Sumba. Nihi Sumba

Sani Resort

  • Kassandra, 630 77 Halkidiki, Greece

The Rafa Nadal Tennis Center at Sani is the most serious coaching in the Mediterranean, and the fact that Rafa himself hasn’t been photographed here recently hasn’t slowed the bookings. Coaches rotate in from the Academy in Manacor, which means the 10 a.m. session on a Wednesday in July might be with someone who has spent the winter drilling 14-year-olds destined for the tour. All eight clay courts are French red. The sailing school out of the marina runs RYA-certified catamaran and keelboat instruction, and the Aegean here in August has a steady afternoon breeze. More to love: A protected pine forest cuts a meandering trail through the property, and stand-up paddle yoga happens in the lagoon at 7 a.m. Your Greek athletic moment is here.

Sani Resort. Sani Resort

Paradero Todos Santos

  • Benito Juárez s/n, Col. Centro, 23300 Todos Santos, B.C.S., México

Cerritos Beach is 10 minutes down a road that was fully paved only recently, and the surf coach from Paradero will meet you there at sunrise with two longboards and a thermos of black coffee. He is, depending on the day, a 23-year-old from Pescadero or a 40-year-old who used to be on the Mexican national team. San Pedrito is 15 minutes further. Back at the hotel, the hikes leave from the lobby—five ecosystems between the Sierra La Laguna and the Pacific bluff, ascending through creosote and guaje and granite to a cactus plateau that looks photographed but isn’t. The architecture is Baja vernacular pushed to its sharpest edge, and 24 new Villa Suites open this year. Cosimo, the southern-Italian restaurant in the new wing, serves a carbonara that shouldn’t be good in the desert but is.

Paradero at the Sea. Leading Hotels of the World

Forestis Dolomites

  • Palmschoß 22, 39042 Brixen, South Tyrol, Italy

Forestis sits 5,900 feet up the Plose massif, and the chairlift that runs out the front door drops you directly onto miles of hiking trail or, if you’ve brought the right equipment, downhill flow trails that will age you five years in a morning. Herbert is the in-house guide. He does the sunrise hikes, speaks English and German and a dialect neither of your parents would recognize, and has a habit of pointing at a peak across the valley and telling you its name as though you should have known already. Come September for the Bike Festa Südtirol (Sept. 17-20, 2026), the new flagship mountain bike weekend out of Brixen.

Forestis Dolomites.

One&Only Moonlight Basin

  • 4100 Moonlight Basin Rd, Big Sky, MT 59716

Meet the new model for American mountain resorts. Moonlight Basin opened in November 2025, with 73 rooms and 19 cabins, spread across 240 acres in Big Sky, with another 17,000 protected around it. You can fly-fish the Madison with a local outfitter in the morning—they tie their own flies, and the Madison in July runs green over limestone gravel in a way that makes the rest of your year feel monochromatic. Afternoons are trail rides through lodgepole or miles of singletrack from the door, while the private Jack Nicklaus course up the ridge is technically residents-only, but hotel guests get privileged access through a side gate. The Augustinus Bader treatments last two hours, and yes, you will book a second one before checkout.

One & Only Moonlight Basin. One & Only Moonlight Basin

Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco

  • Località Castiglion del Bosco, 53024 Montalcino SI, Italy

Castiglion del Bosco has one of the best resort cycling programs in Europe. The on-staff guides put you on a carbon-fiber road bike or a gravel setup, read your cadence inside a few kilometers and have you climbing white roads north of Siena by lunch without realizing you signed up for a training ride. The estate is 5,000 acres with a working Brunello winery at its core—actual Brunello, actual vineyards, not just a gesture toward them—and the Tom Weiskopf golf course at the top of the property is the only private club in Italy, which matters more to certain people than it should. L’Eroica runs the first weekend of October out of Gaiole in Chianti, a vintage gran fondo on strade bianche, and the cycling program can build an August around the race, whether you ask it to or not.

Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco. Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco

The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Collection

  • 27649 Old Lincoln Hwy, Wanship, UT 84017

Blue Sky sits on 4,000 acres of the Wasatch foothills, around 30 minutes from Park City, on a working ranch with a genuinely idiosyncratic activity roster. The falconry program, run with HawkWatch International, is the one guests book twice. A handler puts a leather gauntlet on your arm, walks you into the meadow, and a Harris’s hawk launches off a post to land on your fist with the weight of a small dog moving at 35 miles an hour. The fly fishing is no afterthought, either: guides run wade and float trips on the Provo, which runs brown trout to 20 inches in the tailwater below Jordanelle Dam. Add horsemanship clinics, mountain biking across Wasatch singletrack and clay shooting at the on-property range.

Clay shooting at The Lodge at Blue Sky. Richard Schultz

Awaroa Lodge

  • Awaroa Inlet, Abel Tasman National Park, Tasman 7183, New Zealand

Awaroa is one of the few hotels inside Abel Tasman, which is New Zealand’s smallest national park and one of its most spectacular—a coast of granite headlands, tidal estuaries and beaches the color of bone. The lodge is reachable only by boat, small plane or foot, which is also how the sport program works. Sea kayaking out of the on-property beach runs ability-tiered day trips to Torrent Bay and Bark Bay, and in season, the pods of orcas move through the inlet close enough that the guides have you hold the paddle still. The Abel Tasman Coast Track, 37 miles end to end, passes the front lawn—trail runners time themselves on the Marahau-to-Totaranui leg. Add a fly-fishing partnership on the Motueka River, 45 minutes inland, for brown trout the size of a housecat. 

Awaroa Lodge. Awaroa Lodge

The Lodge at Primland, Auberge Collection 

  • 2000 Busted Rock Rd, Meadows of Dan, VA 24120

Primland sits on 12,000 acres of Blue Ridge above the town of Meadows of Dan. The fly fishing is six miles of catch-and-release on the Dan River—brown, brook and rainbow—plus the Pinnacles of Dan tailwater below the hydro dam. Orvis endorses the guide program, which matters to the kind of person who notices. The sporting-clays course runs 14 stations and is serious enough that the people you’ll share it with will be wearing jackets with their initials. There’s an observatory up top with a research-grade telescope, a Donald Steel golf course, horseback trail rides for guests 12 and over. The bourbon list is worth working your way through as a post-excursion treat.

Fly fishing at Primland, Meadows of Dan. Peter Frank Edwards

The Ranch at Rock Creek

  • 79 Carriage House Ln, Philipsburg, MT 59858

Rock Creek is a working cattle ranch that happens to put you up in a 29-key collection of cabins, canvas glamping tents and the Granite Lodge. The equestrian program operates across several arenas, with on-staff trainers teaching both Western and English to the same child over the same week, which is a small feat of patience. Cattle drives actually move cattle, and barrel-racing clinics actually clock times. Four miles of Rock Creek run Orvis-endorsed blue-ribbon trout, and the fly guides will tie you something local that works before the hatch figures itself out. Sporting clays, archery, a 19th-century saloon restored for poker nights that go later than they should. Six thousand six hundred acres of Montana, and the only sound after midnight is whatever the coyotes are gossiping about.

The Ranch at Rock Creek. The Ranch at Rock Creek

Six Senses Ibiza

  • Cami Sa Torre 71, 07810 San Juan Bautista, Ibiza, Spain

Everyone knows Ibiza for a specific reason, and that reason is not what happens at Six Senses. The hotel sits on the quiet north end of the island, 30 minutes from the airport, facing a cove called Cala Xarraca, where the water is so clear it looks digitally altered. The activity program, however, is the surprise. The hotel hosts windsurfing lessons in the cove, and a water-based yoga program in the lagoon. Paddleboard excursions leave before breakfast to reach the sea caves at Es Portitxol while the island is still sleeping off Friday. The club scene 45 minutes south can be somebody else’s obsession.

Six Senses Ibiza. Six Senses Ibiza

Finolhu Baa Atoll

  • Kanufushi Island, Baa Atoll, Maldives

For most people, the Maldives is filed under beach vacation, which is a tax bracket away from a sports destination. Finolhu, however, sits in a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve on Baa Atoll, one of the most-watched manta aggregations on earth. From May through November, Hanifaru Bay fills with feeding mantas and the occasional whale shark. The dive center runs daily snorkel drift trips led by marine biologists, and the kitesurfing school has IKO-certified instructors and flat turquoise water that makes learning embarrassingly easy. Private villas sit on stilts over a house reef you can drop into from your deck with a mask, while yoga on an overwater platform at 7 a.m. is the rare cliché that truly does relax you at a cellular level.

Finolhu Villas, Baa Atoll. Finolhu Villas, Baa Atoll

Maçakizi

  • Narçiçeği Sokak, Kesire Mevkii, 48400 Göltürkbükü, Muğla, Turkey

Bodrum is what the Côte d’Azur was before the Côte d’Azur decided to become, well, itself. Maçakizi is the property that best captures the shift—74 rooms up a terraced hillside above Türkbükü bay, the kind of place where breakfast lasts until 11 and nobody comments. The sport here is perhaps most unexpected: serious sailing. The hotel arranges access to day sailers and classic gulets out of the marina below, and the Aegean wind here is the meltem, which blows reliably from the northwest in July and August. Private coaching through the local sailing community is available on request. Add freediving at Karaada, paddle tennis on clay under a fig arbor and Pilates on the terrace at sunrise. 

Maçakizi. Maçakizi

Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita

  • Bahía de Banderas, Nayarit 63734, Mexico

Pacifico’s alternate 19th is in the Pacific Ocean. No, not overlooking it—in it. Known as the Tail of the Whale, the green is a natural island reachable only by amphibious cart at low tide, and when the tide is wrong, the starters wait because the alternative is flinging golf balls into the sea at a different hole. The Tropicsurf coaches will meet you at El Anclote before breakfast and have you standing on a soft-top by the time the other guests are ordering huevos. Tennis is run out of a 10-court complex with resident pros. Add kayaking, stand-up paddle and whale-watching when in season. The peninsula is 52 private acres, and whatever you want to do, someone on staff knows how to do it better.

Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita. Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita
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21 New York City Restaurants for Summertime Guys’ Dinners https://observer.com/list/best-restaurants-nyc-for-guys-dinner/ Thu, 28 May 2026 19:05:18 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1648918 A guys’ dinner is the meal that doesn’t need a reason but always has one—a brother flying in, a deal closing, a 38th birthday, a bachelor party with a flight from Atlanta and a hotel in Tribeca. New York is built for the genre, with a chophouse tradition running back to the 1880s, a Greek seafood row on Ditmars Boulevard and a Pan-American oyster bar parked on an island in the harbor. The captains and bartenders in this town have seen every version of eight men on a Saturday, and most have a particular move—a wine they nudge you toward, a side they triple-comp, a way of materializing a four-top when the two-top suddenly won’t work.

A few rules a room has to follow to qualify: It needs a proper bar—not three stools by the host stand, but a landing strip where you can stand, order the first round and let the table sort itself out. It needs ambient noise—a guys’ dinner dies in a hushed room and lives in one that bounces the laughter back at you. It needs something to share—a steak for the table, a baked pasta, a multi-course feast that arrives in waves. The menu has to bend for the friend who wants everything from the raw bar and the friend who doesn’t, and the music should drift up after 10 p.m. without anyone asking.

The World Cup lands at MetLife on July 19 with the city in full eat-and-drink mode, and the next two months will be thick with visiting fans, group reunions and last-minute table requests. Whether you’re here for the tournament or rounding up the boys, here are 21 rooms for whatever the night demands—formal to informal, brand-new to century-old, each one ready for whatever you bring through the door.

Huso

  • 323A Greenwich St, New York, NY 10013

Two-time Top Chef winner Buddha Lo’s Michelin-starred tasting room moved from the Upper East Side to Tribeca, taking over a 28-seat, two-level space inside Marky’s Caviar—vaulted cellar kitchen, Haring prints on the walls. The 12-course spring menu runs $285 per person: scallop with ajo blanco, foie gras with brioche, lobster with white asparagus, lamb with green asparagus, Valrhona dark chocolate finished with caviar. The Dirty Rich Martini arrives with an olive and—you guessed it—a caviar bump on the spoon. Between courses, you sneak into the basement kitchen and pose for a Polaroid with the chef.

Huso. Cayla Zahoran Photography

Keens Steakhouse

  • 72 W 36th St, New York, NY 10018

Four blocks from Madison Square Garden and 141 years into the run, Keens still serves its 26-ounce mutton chop with mint jelly. Roughly 45,000 clay pipes hang above you, a vestige of when patrons, which once included Babe Ruth, J.P. Morgan and Teddy Roosevelt, were permitted to store their fragile clay pipes on-site. The single-malt list stretches north of 300 labels, and the bar Bloody Mary is finished with balsamic, a twist that sounds odd until you’ve had one. Order the chop, the porterhouse for three, the wedge salad and the coffee cantata sundae that wraps up a $400 dinner with the dignity it deserves.

Keens Steakhouse. Keens Steakhouse

Carbone

  • 181 Thompson St, New York, NY 10012

The captains wear burgundy Zac Posen tuxedos, the Caesar comes whole to the table, and the spicy rigatoni vodka launched a thousand jarred imitations while still tasting better than all of them. Reservations remain a 30-day Resy operation, and the room calibrates itself among Bushwick hipsters, finance guys, and a celebrity in the corner banquette with three security looking deeply uninterested. The veal parmesan for two does what a veal parmesan should and then some, the meatballs with ricotta could anchor the meal on their own, and don’t skip the lemon cheesecake.

Carbone. Carbone

Torrisi

  • 275 Mulberry St, New York, NY 10012

The bigger sibling to Carbone, with less circus and more production. The Puck Building gives you 30-foot vaulted ceilings, an art program designed to keep you looking up between courses, and an à la carte menu that wanders happily between chopped liver with Manischewitz and cavatelli with Jamaican beef ragu. Major Food Group knows how to throw a dinner, and this is the room they built for the version with 12 guys and a reason. The spaghetti al pomodoro is doing exactly what it’s meant to and very little else; ask the captain which pasta to push.

Torrisi. Torrisi

Cote Korean Steakhouse

  • 16 W 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

Korean barbecue and American steakhouse on one table, with a Michelin star and smokeless grills cut into every two-top so a four-hour dinner ends with everyone’s shirt smelling like the one they walked in with. Order the Butcher’s Feast at $82 a head—USDA Prime hanger, dry-aged ribeye, short rib galbi, American wagyu, banchan, two stews, an egg soufflé in a stone pot and soy-caramel soft serve to close. Downstairs sits Undercote, the speakeasy with a 1,200-label wine list that handles the after-dinner crowd, and the new Bar Chimera upstairs is making a serious play at the city’s best martini.

Cote Korean Steakhouse. Cote Korean Steakhouse

Coqodaq

  • 12 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

Another entry from Simon Kim: Coqodaq, where you wash your hands at the entrance with rotating luxury soaps, sit under gold-arched ceilings styled like a chicken coop reimagined by Gucci, and order from what the restaurant bills as the longest Champagne list in America—roughly 400 labels. The Bucket List menu runs $42 a head and arrives in waves: consommé, banchan, the original fried chicken, a second round glazed in soy garlic or gochujang, cold perilla noodles and frozen yogurt. The $28 caviar nugget exists as a photo op—pretend you’re above it before ordering one anyway.

Coqodaq. Coqodaq

Café Carmellini

  • 250 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10001

Andrew Carmellini’s fine-dining return inside the Fifth Avenue Hotel is one of the most beautiful rooms opened this decade: sapphire-blue velvet booths, caramel leather, two sculptural trees scraping toward 30-foot ceilings and rotating art on the walls. The lobster cannelloni with cream and caviar is the headliner, the Sicilian sardines on toast are the sleeper, and the wine program runs through master sommelier Josh Nadel and wine director Robin Wright—meaning the $200 bottle and the $2,000 bottle are both going to be good.

Café Carmellini. Café Carmellini

Six Coasts by Smorgasburg

  • Soissons Landing, Governors Island, New York, NY 10004

This Pan-American waterfront restaurant opened May 9 in the 32,000-square-foot space that used to house Island Oyster. Chef Scotley Innis runs a coastal menu pulled from six coastlines across the Americas—Nova Scotia, Baja and Bahia among them—across raw bar, whole grilled fish, ceviche and rice plates, all coming out of a fully electric kitchen. A seven-minute ferry from the Battery Maritime Building drops you at Soissons Landing with unobstructed views of Lower Manhattan and New York Harbor. Built for long Saturday lunches with rosé and zero plans afterward.

Six Coasts by Smorgasburg. Six Coasts by Smorgasburg

Cuerno New York

  • 1271 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020

The Mexican chophouse from Costeño Group opened in summer 2025 inside the former Time & Life Building, directly across Sixth Avenue from the rink at Rockefeller Plaza and a block from the Telemundo Fan Village. The 52-ounce tomahawk arrives crusted in Colima salt and charred in a Josper; you’ll want it alongside the 16-ounce ribeye with bone marrow, the bone marrow tacos and as many mezcalitas as the table can muster. Tortillas keep coming in place of popovers, which feels right. The 50th Street patio just opened for the season, and a new weekend brunch handles the morning after.

Cuerno New York. Eric Vitale Photography

Bowery Meat Company

  • 9 E 1st St, New York, NY 10003

The room is dark, the lighting flatters everyone, and Josh Capon’s duck lasagna for two arrives in cast iron hot enough to need warning labels—easily feeding four if you order it as a pregame. The Bowery Steak makes the case for staying, the charbroiled oysters land under garlicky breadcrumbs and Romano that sounds wrong on paper and right on the table, and the sides hold up better than the meat at most legacy steakhouses. For six guys in town for a Knicks game, this is the East Village answer to the $200-a-head Midtown chophouse—followed by a nightcap at McSorley’s.

Bowery Meat Company. Bowery Meat Company

4 Charles Prime Rib

  • 4 Charles St, New York, NY 10014

This subterranean townhouse on Charles Street has no windows, lighting tuned to a Don Draper mood and reservations that drop 21 days out at 9 a.m. EST on Resy—and disappearing in 90 seconds. The salt-crusted prime rib is the move, the burger and French dip have a cult following, and the martini service remains an integral part of the experience. The room seats roughly 60 with parties capped at six, so larger groups split tables and accept the alarm-clock contortions. Repetition and strategy is the only way in.

4 Charles Prime Rib. 4 Charles Prime Rib

Don Angie

  • 103 Greenwich Ave, New York, NY 10014

The pinwheel lasagna for two—stuffed rolls of pasta fanned like a sundial across a cast-iron skillet—is one of the great carbohydrate engineering feats downtown. Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli have been running this 50-seat West Village room since 2017, with sister restaurant San Sabino next door for the spillover (it’s always packed, too). The chrysanthemum salad and gnocchi with pancetta and pomegranate fill out an order that turns four-tops into three-hour dinners. Six guys fit comfortably, 10 probably won’t.

Don Angie. Don Angie

Hawksmoor NYC

  • 109 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

The London import lives inside the restored 1893 Assembly Hall of the United Charities Building, all 26-foot vaulted ceilings and a porterhouse hung in-house for at least 35 days. The Sunday Roast is famous on both sides of the Atlantic—dry-aged rump, beef-fat potatoes, gigantic Yorkshire puddings, onion gravy and bone marrow—and the cocktail program pours what the bar claims as the coldest martini in New York. Book early, order the potted beef with Yorkshire puddings to start, the bone-in prime for the table and the sticky toffee pudding to finish.

Hawksmoor NYC. Paul Winch-Furness

Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi

  • 10 Lincoln Center Plaza, New York, NY 10023

Former New York Times food critic Pete Wells’ top-ranked restaurant in New York in both 2023 and 2024, tucked inside David Geffen Hall at Lincoln Center, where Kwame Onwuachi’s Afro-Caribbean menu plays with a Bronx accent—curried goat patties, jerk lamb ribs in a sweet-spicy glaze, braised oxtail, truffled chopped cheese buns. The music plays loud, the room holds 70 and the energy refuses to settle. Reservations drop 28 days out at noon and the prime windows are gone in under 30 minutes; showing up at 5 p.m. for the walk-in bar list is a real strategy worth knowing.

Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi. Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi

Din Tai Fung

  • 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019

The Taiwanese soup-dumpling institution founded in 1972 finally crossed the country in 2024, landing its first East Coast location across from the Gershwin Theatre. The Kurobuta pork Xiao Long Bao is the reason you came, and the spicy wontons and pork chop fried rice are the reasons you’ll come back. The cucumber salad arrives cold and garlicky enough to cut through the soy. The bar mixes up an NYC-only Black Sesame Espresso Martini with Blue Bottle coffee. Best as an early-evening pregame round before the proper dinner—or the post-Broadway 9:30 p.m. dumpling stop.

Din Tai Fung. Din Tai Fung

Peter Luger

  • 178 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11211

The 1887 Williamsburg institution accepts cash, debit cards and the Peter Luger card, but no credit cards—period. There’s essentially one order: porterhouse for two, three or four, with the bacon arriving first as its own course (thick-cut, peppery, a single slab per person), followed by creamed spinach, German fried potatoes, the requisite tomato and onion and schlag for dessert. The waiters remain gruff in a way that has become its own form of showpiece, and nothing has changed here in any meaningful way, despite the place losing its Michelin star in 2022.

Peter Luger. Liz Clayman

Maison Premiere

  • 298 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249

A New Orleans-style oyster bar and absinthe parlor on Bedford Avenue that has barely changed in 15 years, which in Williamsburg makes it a heritage site by acclamation. The horseshoe marble bar rotates 30-plus oyster varieties daily, sourced from both coasts and read aloud by a server who knows the difference between a Wellfleet and a Beausoleil. The absinthe collection is what the bar advertises as the largest in the country, the Maison Absinthe Colada arrives with a small ceremony involving an actual fountain, and the rest of the program goes hard into oysters, martinis and shellfish plateaus.

Maison Premiere. Maison Premiere

Crane Club

  • 85 10th Ave, New York, NY 10011

This two-story Tao Group production took over Del Posto’s space in West Chelsea, where Michelin-starred Melissa Rodriguez drives a wood-fire program off a 12-foot Mibrasa grill. The dining room is draped in red velvet and gold leaf and the wine list tops 1,000 bottles. Order the 30-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye, the maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms with cognac and Thai basil, the bone marrow with grilled filone bread and the bread service that comes in an edible bowl. The members-only club downstairs runs most of the same menu, leading to a version of the night nobody wants to reminisce about on Monday.

Crane Club. Alex Staniloff

Gage & Tollner

  • 372 Fulton St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

In April 2021, the 1879 chophouse reopened after 16 years dark, looking better than it had since the Cleveland administration—cherry-wood walls, brass chandeliers and a menu paying open homage to Edna Lewis, who ran the kitchen from 1988 to 1992. The fried chicken with cornmeal fritters is the order to commit to, and the Baked Alaska is how the meal should end—ideally with the lights down. After dinner, climb the stairs to Sunken Harbor Club, the 35-seat tiki bar above the dining room (walk-ins only), built inside a Gilded Age room without breaking the spell.

Gage & Tollner. Gage & Tollner

Taverna Kyclades

  • 36-01 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria, NY 11105

The Astoria flagship that takes no online reservations and, frankly, may never need to to fill the convivial dining room. Whole grilled branzino arrives boned tableside and glossed in olive oil and oregano, the grilled octopus and lamb chops anchor the starters, and the Greek salad turns up with feta thick enough to slice with a fork. The line out front on a Saturday at 7 p.m. stacks 40 deep, but the kitchen turns tables fast, so Tuesday at 6:30 p.m. is the play for a group of eight. The bar has expanded since the early BYOB days, leaving a wine list that’s short, Greek and reasonable.

Taverna Kyclades. Taverna Kyclades

Red Rooster Harlem

  • 310 Lenox Ave, New York, NY 10027

Marcus Samuelsson’s Harlem flagship, located on Lenox Avenue between 125th and 126th, is named after the legendary 1930s speakeasy where Nat King Cole, James Baldwin and Adam Clayton Powell Jr. used to drink. The fried yardbird with shake-on spice is the dish to order, but the shrimp and grits compete and the cornbread is non-negotiable; the wine list takes the African diaspora seriously and carries more South African chenin blanc than any restaurant within 50 blocks. Chef Roshara Sanders is leading new menu development, live music plays most nights, and downstairs sits Ginny’s Supper Club—the speakeasy where the second half of the night belongs.

Red Rooster Harlem. Red Rooster Harlem
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1648918
The Historic American Bars That Have Seen It All https://observer.com/list/best-historic-bars-taverns-united-states/ Thu, 21 May 2026 12:00:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1647130 On the night of December 4, 1783, nine days after the British finally cleared out of New York, George Washington walked up a staircase on Pearl Street into a low-ceilinged room above a tavern, and told the men who had won him a country goodbye. He embraced each officer, walked out to the Battery and boarded a barge bound for Annapolis to resign his commission. The upstairs room is still there. The tavern downstairs is still pouring.

Buyenlarge via Getty Images An 1848 Nathaniel Currier lithograph, “Washington Taking Leave of the Officers of His Army,” depicting George Washington toasting his officers at Fraunces Tavern prior to his resignation.

This is the part of America’s 250th birthday that the brochures tend to skip. The Founding Fathers were not, by and large, museum people. They were tavern people—legislators who drafted resolutions over a Hot Ale Flip (a Colonial-era beer-and-rum cocktail), generals who quartered their officers inside inn rooms, presidents who walked a block from the White House for oysters. The country was assembled in rooms outfitted with bars, and a surprising number of those rooms are still in business. They survived British torches, Confederate cannon, Prohibition raids, urban renewal and Grubhub. Alas, not all legacies are meant to last forever. City Tavern in Philadelphia, the great Founding Father canteen, has been closed since 2020. McCrady’s in Charleston, where Washington was fêted in 1791, didn’t survive the coronavirus pandemic. But with these 19 bars, there’s plenty to celebrate leading up to the Fourth.

Fraunces Tavern

  • 54 Pearl Street, New York, NY 10004

The most consequential drinking room in American history sits on the southern tip of Manhattan—a Georgian brick walk-up that has been serving food and drink since King George II was on the throne. On December 4, 1783, Washington summoned his Continental Army officers, including Henry Knox and Baron von Steuben, to the second-floor Long Room and bid them farewell: “With a heart full of love and gratitude, I now take leave of you.” The Long Room upstairs is preserved as part of the Sons of the Revolution museum, but the ground floor operates as an independent bar and restaurant with a serious cocktail program and an annual reenactment every December 4. Tavernkeeper Samuel Fraunces—likely Black or mixed-race, called “Black Sam”—went on to become Washington’s presidential steward. Order the punch.

Fraunces Tavern. Fraunces Tavern

The White Horse Tavern

  • 26 Marlborough Street, Newport, RI 02840

The National Park Service calls it the oldest operating tavern in America, and the math backs it up: this gambrel-roofed clapboard was already a century old when the Revolution started. William Mayes pulled Newport’s first liquor license here in 1687 to sell “all sorts of strong drink.” The Rhode Island General Assembly met in the dining room, the criminal court convened upstairs, and Hessian mercenaries quartered inside during the British occupation from 1776 to 1779. The pinewood floor, 95 percent original and once treated with whale oil, has the spongy give of a thing that has held three-and-a-half centuries of weight. A 13-star flag hangs in the dining room, where the cavernous fireplaces are sized for cooking whole deer and the duck Scotch egg is the kitchen’s trump card. So is the beef Wellington.

The White Horse Tavern. The White Horse Tavern

Warren Tavern

  • 2 Pleasant Street, Charlestown, MA 02129

Named for Dr. Joseph Warren, the Sons of Liberty leader who dispatched Paul Revere on his ride and was killed two months later at Bunker Hill, Warren Tavern was one of the first structures rebuilt after the British torched Charlestown in 1775. Washington stopped in for refreshments in 1789 while visiting his cabinetmaker friend Benjamin Frothingham. Paul Revere ran the King Solomon’s Lodge of Masons that met upstairs for two decades, with Revere himself as Grand Master. The ceilings are low enough that you can picture a six-foot-two Virginian ducking his head. Charlestown’s Bunker Hill 250 programming is anchored here through 2026, and the locals still recite the line: there would be no July 4th without June 17th. Order the New England clam chowder and a pint of something local.

The Griswold Inn

  • 36 Main Street, Essex, CT 06426

“The Gris” opened the year of the Declaration, supplying food and lodging to the shipbuilders working on Connecticut’s first warship, the Oliver Cromwell. In April 1814, around 130 British marines occupied the inn during a War of 1812 raid that burned 28 Essex ships—one of the worst attacks on American soil that everyone has now forgotten about—and demanded a hot Sunday breakfast before heading back to their boats. The inn still serves the “Hunt Breakfast” every Sunday in commemoration. The Tap Room is a 1735 schoolhouse that was rolled to the site by oxen in 1801. The ceiling is original crushed-clamshell-and-horsehair plaster. In the Gun Room, a Revolutionary musket was discovered with a hidden note in its barrel: “My dear son Jared, I send you this my gun, do not handle it in fun, but with it make ye British run.”

The Griswold Inn. Caryn B. Davis

Old ’76 House

  • 110 Main Street, Tappan, NY 10983

The Orangetown Resolutions, an early protest document against the Crown, were signed on this site on July 4, 1774—two years before the Declaration. The tavern served as Continental Army headquarters during the Tappan encampment and held Major John André, the British spy caught with Benedict Arnold’s plans to surrender West Point, from September 25 to October 1, 1780. Washington personally denied André’s request to die by firing squad rather than the rope, and he was subsequently hanged on the hill behind the tavern on October 2. An inverted portrait of Benedict Arnold still hangs over the fireplace as a deliberate insult. The menu offers Eggs Benedict Arnold without irony. The dining room ceiling beams are original; the fireplaces are wide enough to walk into. A confession: the prime rib is excellent. A second confession: the historical drama outpaces the cocktail list.

Old ’76 House. Shutterstock

McSorley’s Old Ale House

  • 15 East 7th Street, New York, NY 10003

At McSorley’s, expect two beers, light or dark, served in matched pairs of small mugs. The only menu addition in 50 years was a Feltman’s hot dog. Lincoln stopped in after his February 1860 Cooper Union address; the chair he sat in is kept behind the bar. Grant came, then Teddy Roosevelt, JFK, Boss Tweed, Harry Houdini, Woody Guthrie and John Lennon. The Fighting 69th Infantry made it their de facto headquarters during the 1863 Draft Riots. Above the bar hangs an original 1865 wanted poster offering $100,000 for John Wilkes Booth. Houdini’s handcuffs hang from the rafters. The wishbones suspended from the gas chandelier were left there by World War I doughboys heading to Europe—the ones still hanging belong to the men who didn’t come back. The tradition continues through Iraq and Afghanistan. The motto carved into the back wall: “We were here before you were born.”

McSorley’s Old Ale House. McSorley's Old Ale House

McGillen’s Olde Ale House

  • 1310 Drury Street, Philadelphia, PA 19107

Tucked into Drury Street, an alley between 13th and Juniper, McGillin’s opened the year Lincoln was elected. The Irish immigrants who founded it raised 13 children upstairs. Union soldiers reportedly celebrated the surrender at Appomattox here in 1865. The bar survived the 1918 flu, Prohibition (operating as an “ice cream parlor” with a tea room upstairs that was definitely not a speakeasy) and Covid. Every liquor license the bar has held since 1871 is framed on the walls, with one telling gap for the dry years. The original wooden “Bell in Hand” sign hangs above the bar, surrounded by reclaimed signage from defunct Philadelphia institutions—Wanamaker’s, Strawbridge & Clothier, an F.W. Woolworth subway tile—a kind of municipal taxidermy. Order the Yards-brewed McGillin’s 1860 IPA and a roast beef sandwich. The Irish stew won’t disappoint either.

McGillin’s Olde Ale House. McGillin's Olde Ale House

Gadsby’s Tavern Restaurant

  • 138 North Royal Street, Alexandria, VA 22314

The 1785 building next door is a city museum; the 1792 City Tavern half is a working restaurant and bar. Washington attended his Birthnight Balls here in 1798 and 1799. Jefferson held his inaugural banquet in the dining room in 1801. Madison, Monroe, Adams, Hamilton and Lafayette all dined here. The original ballroom woodwork was sold to the Met in 1917 and is still on view in the American Wing—what you see today is a careful reproduction of the original room. Yards Brewing’s “Ales of the Revolution” are on tap: Washington’s Tavern Porter, Jefferson’s Tavern Ale and Poor Richard’s Spruce, brewed from a Franklin recipe. The annual Birthnight Ball reenactment in February is the centerpiece of Alexandria’s America 250 calendar.

Gadsby’s Tavern Restaurant. Gadsby's Tavern Restaurant

Round Robin Bar

  • 1401 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20004

Inside the Willard Hotel, a block from the White House, the Round Robin is the bar that runs the country between hearings. Senator Henry Clay introduced the mint julep to Washington at this circular mahogany bar. Lincoln stayed at the Willard for the 10 days before his 1861 inauguration. Julia Ward Howe allegedly wrote “The Battle Hymn of the Republic” upstairs. Mark Twain, Walt Whitman and Ulysses S. Grant—who reportedly coined “lobbyist” while smoking cigars in the lobby—were regulars. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. finalized the “I Have a Dream” speech in a Willard room hours before delivering it on August 28, 1963. Bartender Jim Hewes has worked the Round Robin for more than 25 years across six administrations and assigns each president a personal drink. In summer, he stirs more than two dozen Maker’s Mark juleps a day.

Round Robin Bar. Round Robin Bar

Old Ebbitt Grill

  • 675 15th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005

D.C.’s oldest bar and restaurant, also a block from the White House, in a different direction. William McKinley lived in the original Ebbitt House while serving in Congress; the Washington Post reported his 1897 inaugural party booking on November 22, 1896. The building was nicknamed “Army and Navy Headquarters” through the 1860s. Ulysses S. Grant, Andrew Johnson, Grover Cleveland, Teddy Roosevelt and Warren G. Harding all reportedly drank here. The animal heads above the main bar are credited to Roosevelt’s hunting trips. Clyde’s Restaurant Group bought the place at a 1970 auction for $11,200 and moved it to its current location in 1983, bringing the F Street antique clock, Charles B. Shefts’s carved-glass panels of the Treasury, Capitol and White House, and an iron-spindled marble staircase rescued from the old National Metropolitan Bank.

Old Ebbitt Grill. Old Ebbitt Grill

Dobbin House Tavern

  • 89 Steinwehr Avenue, Gettysburg, PA 17325

The oldest building in Gettysburg opened the same year as the Declaration. Reverend Alexander Dobbin built it; his abolitionist son, Matthew, carved a three-foot crawl space between the first and second floors to hide escaped enslaved people moving north on the Underground Railroad. The space is still there, visible from the dining room. The tavern served as a Union and Confederate field hospital after the July 1 to 3, 1863, battle, and Lincoln’s procession to deliver the Gettysburg Address passed in front on November 19, 1863. Seven fireplaces, native stone walls and six themed dining rooms—including one where guests eat in a four-poster bed. The basement Springhouse Tavern is built around three natural springs that still flow under the floor.

Dobbin House Tavern. Dobbin House Tavern

The Pirates’ House

  • 20 East Broad Street, Savannah, GA 31401

The adjoining Herb House, dating to 1734, is the oldest standing structure in Georgia. By the 1750s, the inn was serving sailors at the edge of the colonial port. Robert Louis Stevenson immortalized Savannah in Treasure Island—”I was with Flint when he died at Savannah,” says Long John Silver—and pages from a rare early edition hang framed in the Captain’s Room. Fifteen dining rooms now spread under peg-beam ceilings, with an “Old Rum Cellar” beneath the Captain’s Room. The Shanghaiing tunnels and Captain Flint’s ghost are local legend; the building’s age, the colonial seaport context and the Treasure Island connection are all genuine.

The Pirates’ House. The Pirates' House

Old Talbott Tavern

  • 107 West Stephen Foster Avenue, Bardstown, KY 40004

Old Talbott Tavern predates the town it sits in, and calls itself the oldest bourbon bar in the world, which actually understates the case. Daniel Boone gave a deposition here in April 1792. Louis-Philippe of France—the future king, then exiled—arrived October 17, 1797, and a member of his entourage painted murals on the wall (which were badly damaged in a 1998 fire). A young Abraham Lincoln stayed here around age six or seven, in 1812, while his parents fought and lost a land-title lawsuit that drove the family to Indiana. Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, Stephen Foster and General George Patton all drank here. Jesse James—a relative of Bardstown’s sheriff—reportedly fired at the painted birds in the Louis-Philippe murals after one too many drinks.

Old Talbott Tavern. Old Talbott Tavern

Napoleon House

  • 500 Chartres Street, New Orleans, LA 70130

The mayor who built Napoleon House, Nicholas Girod, supplied militia and provisions to Andrew Jackson before the Battle of New Orleans on January 8, 1815. The legend that Girod schemed with Jean Lafitte to smuggle the exiled Napoleon here from St. Helena is unproven, but it gave the place its name. The Impastato family ran it for 101 years, from 1914 to 2015, and introduced the Pimm’s Cup to America somewhere between 1915 and the 1930s. The bar still sells more Pimm’s Cups than any establishment on earth, and serves a warm muffuletta, toasted, which is the local heresy. Beethoven’s Eroica Symphony, originally dedicated to Napoleon, plays on a loop. The walls are patinated nearly black, the courtyard banana trees lean over the wrought-iron tables and the old wooden bar is hollowed by a century of elbows.

Napoleon House. Napoleon House

Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge

  • 422 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203

The youngest bar on the list is indispensable to the cultural-patriotic frame. Tootsie’s sits one alley behind the Ryman Auditorium, home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974. Willie Nelson said it best: “It’s 17 steps to Tootsie’s and 34 steps back.” Hattie “Tootsie” Bess kept a cigar box of IOUs for broke songwriters—Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, Waylon Jennings, Roger Miller, Patsy Cline, Tom T. Hall and Loretta Lynn all cashed her informal credit. Roger Miller wrote “Dang Me” here. Nelson got his first songwriting gig walking out the back door. The garish purple paint job was an accident—debt-paying contractors used the wrong color, and Tootsie kept it. She was buried in 1978 in an orchid gown, in an orchid casket.

Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge. Tootsie's Orchid Lounge

Buckhorn Exchange

  • 1000 Osage Street, Denver, CO 80204

Founded by Henry “Shorty Scout” Zietz, who scouted with Buffalo Bill Cody, the Buckhorn holds Colorado Liquor License No. 1—the very first issued when Prohibition ended in 1933, still framed on the wall. Theodore Roosevelt dined here in 1905 when his presidential train stopped in the Rio Grande railyard across the street, and afterward asked Zietz to be his hunting guide. The flag from Roosevelt’s train hangs in the upstairs lounge. FDR, Eisenhower, Carter and Reagan followed. JFK’s 1961 Colorado fishing license is on a wall. Five hundred and seventy-five taxidermy mounts line the room, alongside a 125-piece antique gun collection and a white-oak bar built in Essen, Germany, in 1857 and shipped by oxcart from New York. Order the Buffalo Bill Cocktail, which is really just bourbon and apple juice and was reputedly Cody’s poker drink, and a plate of buffalo, elk or rattlesnake.

Buckhorn Exchange. Buckhorn Exchange

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon

  • 120 South Montezuma Street, Prescott, AZ 86303

This is Arizona’s oldest bar and the spiritual heart of Whiskey Row. Wyatt Earp, Virgil Earp and Doc Holliday drank here before decamping to Tombstone—Virgil lived in Prescott as town constable. The defining anecdote happened on July 14, 1900: as the Whiskey Row fire raced through downtown, regulars hauled the massive hand-carved Brunswick bar across the street to Courthouse Plaza and kept drinking while the building burned around their old spot. They rebuilt by 1901 around the same bar, which is still in use—24 feet of solid oak with a cherry top and French plate-glass mirrors, originally shipped around Cape Horn from New Jersey to San Francisco and packed in by mule. Theodore Roosevelt visited in 1907 to commission a statue of Rough Rider Bucky O’Neill. Bullet holes are still visible in the pressed-tin ceiling.

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon. The Palace Restaurant and Saloon

The Occidental Hotel & Saloon

  • 10 North Main Street, Buffalo, WY 82834

At the foot of the Bighorns on the old Bozeman Trail, this was Owen Wister’s drinking room: the climactic shootout in The Virginian—”When you call me that, smile”—is set on the street outside. Buffalo Bill, Calamity Jane, Teddy Roosevelt, Tom Horn, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (whose Hole-in-the-Wall hideout was nearby) and Hemingway all stayed here. The Johnson County Cattle War of 1892 swirled through the lobby. The original imported back bar carries 23 still-visible bullet holes. Cowboy spur scrapes mark the back stairs, and a six-shooter indentation creases one room door. Rescued from the wrecking ball in 1997—the building was eight weeks from demolition—and now houses 18 themed rooms and a Thursday-night bluegrass jam that has run 16 years and raised a quarter-million dollars for charity.

The Occidental Hotel & Saloon. The Occidental Hotel & Saloon

Saloon No. 10

  • 657 Main Street, Deadwood, SD 57732

Wild Bill Hickok was shot dead by Jack McCall during a poker game on August 2, 1876, holding two pair, aces and eights—the original “Dead Man’s Hand.” That actually happened at Nuttall & Mann’s Saloon, later renamed Saloon No. 10, at 624 Main Street—across the street and down the block from today’s bar, on a site that burned in the 1879 Deadwood fire. The current Saloon No. 10 was conceived as one of America’s first theme bars in 1938 and now holds South Dakota’s largest whiskey selection, sawdust on the floor and a “Wild Bill’s Death Chair” displayed in a velvet-lined illuminated case above the front door, though current owner LuAnn “Louis” LaLonde concedes the chair’s authenticity is doubtful. The murder is reenacted multiple times daily. A competing “Wild Bill Bar” at the actual original 624 site has reclaimed the “Original Location” branding since 2013, which is part of Deadwood’s particular charm.

Saloon No. 10. Saloon No. 10
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20 Extraordinary U.S. National Parks Across America https://observer.com/list/best-national-parks-united-states/ Mon, 18 May 2026 14:20:08 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1645926 The 63 U.S. national parks are the country’s shining glories—a combined 84 million acres of mountain ranges, lava deserts, swamp boardwalks, glacier-fed lakes and old-growth forests, all owned in common and run by the same agency that prints the brown signs. They draw international visitors, road-trippers, retirees with annual passes and kids on Junior Ranger badges. They are also, as of 2026, in the middle of one of the busiest reset years in their history.

Lava fountained 1,500 feet from Halemaʻumaʻu over the winter, the 45th episode of an eruption that began on December 23, 2024, and shows no sign of slowing. Wolves on Isle Royale hit 37 individuals in the April 2026 winter survey, the highest count since the 1970s. Yosemite scrapped its reservation system, presumably because the spreadsheet got overloaded. 

America’s national parks don’t usually change all at once—2026 is the exception, as the country marks 250 years since the Declaration of Independence in July. Four weeks later, the National Park Service, established by Woodrow Wilson’s Organic Act on August 25, 1916, turns 110. The 63 parks under its care logged 331.9 million recreation visits in 2024—the busiest year on record, beating the previous 2016 high by nearly a million—and despite a slight 2.7 percent pullback in 2025, they are bracing for another summer of reservation lotteries, gateway-town traffic and shoulder-season scrambles. Eleven of the most-visited parks now charge nonresident visitors a $100 surcharge. Four major parks dropped their timed-entry systems for the year. The agency itself has been short roughly 24 percent of its permanent workforce since January 2025.

For travelers who do not want the lines, the answer is the same as it has always been. Go earlier, go later, or go where the crowds are not. Below, 20 of the most majestic national parks in the USA, from the Atlantic coast of Maine to the volcanic flanks of the Big Island, with what is new for the 2026 season folded in.

North Cascades National Park

  • Washington

More than 300 glaciers grind through the Picket Range, a wall of peaks named Fury, Terror, Phantom, Ghost and Poltergeist—someone in 1932 was having a moment. North Cascades National Park, three hours from Seattle, holds roughly a third of all the glaciers in the lower 48 and last year drew just 16,485 recreation visits, the second-least-visited park in the country after Gates of the Arctic. The 7.4-mile Cascade Pass climbs through hemlock and silver fir to a meadow at 5,400 feet where marmots whistle and Sahale Glacier hangs above. Diablo Lake glows Gatorade-blue from glacial flour. Stehekin, the small village at Lake Chelan’s head, has no road in: ferry, floatplane or foot. Heads up—State Route 20, the only paved through-road, is broken in the middle from a March 2026 rockslide, and the 26 miles between Diablo and Washington Pass remain closed.

North Cascades National Park. RC Victorino/Unsplash

Congaree National Park

  • South Carolina

Don’t be mistaken: South Carolina’s only national park is not a swamp. That word was dropped from the name in 2003, and the locals would like you to know it. Congaree is a floodplain forest, the largest intact stretch of old-growth bottomland hardwood in North America, and it floods about 10 times a year, on schedule. The trees are the draw, with Loblolly pines that push 167 feet and bald cypresses pushing 500 years. The park holds the tallest known specimens of 15 species, more champion-sized trees than anywhere else on the continent. In May, the Photuris frontalis fireflies sync up in tight bursts over Cedar Creek, 70 flashes a minute—a different show from the Smokies’ slower Photinus carolinus, and the park runs a lottery for the eight viewing nights.

Congaree National Park. Unsplash

Indiana Dunes National Park

  • Indiana

Indiana Dunes only became a national park in 2019, but the scientific data dates back to 1899, when University of Chicago botanist Henry Chandler Cowles studied dune-plant succession here and accidentally invented modern American ecology. The park curls 15 miles along Lake Michigan’s southern shore, an hour from downtown Chicago by car or a $10 ride on the South Shore Line. There are 1,100 flowering plants and 350 bird species, prickly pear cactus and jack pine on the same dune, the Cleveland-Cliffs Burns Harbor steel mill flaring east of the trail and Gary smoke plumes to the west.

Indiana Dunes National Park. Steven Van Elk/Unsplash

New River Gorge National Park and Preserve

  • West Virginia

Designated in 2020, New River Gorge remains America’s newest national park, spanning 70,000 acres along the New River in southern West Virginia. The sandstone walls rise 1,000 feet above whitewater-rated Class III to Class V water, and more than 1,500 climbing routes have been bolted across them, drawing climbers from Berlin to Bishop. The 3.2-mile Endless Wall Trail edges the canyon rim through rhododendron and hemlock. Long Point delivers the postcard shot of the New River Gorge Bridge—876 feet up, 1,700 feet across, the longest single-span steel arch in the Western Hemisphere. Bridge Day, the third Saturday in October, is the only day of the year you can legally BASE-jump it.

New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. Janeson Keeley/Unsplash

Yosemite National Park

  • California

Yosemite scrapped its reservation system entirely for 2026—no permits to enter at peak hours, no Firefall lottery for the February light show on Horsetail Fall. It’s a return to normal park rules. El Capitan still lifts 3,000 feet of granite over the valley floor, and Bridalveil still shrouds itself in mist. The Half Dome cables still go up around Memorial Day weekend, with a permit lottery from March 1 through 31. Tioga Pass typically reopens by late May; Glacier Point Road by mid-May. The Ahwahnee, the 1927 grand dame, sets the lodging benchmark. New for nonresident visitors in 2026: a $100-per-person nonresident surcharge on top of the standard $35 vehicle fee.

Yosemite National Park. Unsplash

Yellowstone National Park

  • Wyoming, Montana and Idaho

America’s first national park, signed into law by Ulysses S. Grant on March 1, 1872, still stands a step above the rest. More than 10,000 hydrothermal features hiss and gurgle from Yellowstone’s glacier-sculpted basins—roughly half the world’s total. About 500 geysers are active, more than the rest of the planet combined. Old Faithful goes off every 94 minutes on average; Lone Star, three miles by trail from the Old Faithful complex, performs every three hours for a fraction of the crowd. The 2022 floods are mostly settled, with the permanent rebuild of the North Entrance Road breaking ground this summer with two new bridges and wildlife underpasses.

Yellowstone National Park. Austin Farrington/Unsplash

Grand Teton National Park

  • Wyoming

Grand Teton sits next door to Yellowstone but feels like a wholly different country. The Cathedral Group rises 7,000 feet straight up from Jackson Hole’s sage flat without a single foothill. Grand Teton itself tops out at 13,775 feet, the second-highest peak in Wyoming. The Snake River loops below with gold trout in the riffles, world-class fly water from Pacific Creek to the Hoback. The draws flow year-round: Spring turns the cottonwoods at Oxbow Bend chartreuse; September brings bull elk down to bugle along the willows; February delivers Nordic skiing through Taggart Lake. The park drew 3.6 million visitors in 2024, the second-busiest year on record.

Grand Teton National Park. Nate Foong/Unsplash

Acadia National Park

  • Maine

The only national park in the Northeast hits different. Granite coastline, spruce forests, the carriage roads John D. Rockefeller Jr. funded between 1913 and 1940—Acadia condenses New England into 47,000 acres on Mount Desert Island. Cadillac Mountain summit road requires a $6 vehicle reservation from May 20 through October 25, 2026; sunrise tickets sell out the moment they release at 10 a.m., 90 days out. Precipice and Beehive trails climb iron-rung ladders up granite faces; Jordan Pond House serves up its famous popovers afterward.

Acadia National Park. Raphael Assouline/Unsplash

Olympic National Park

  • Washington

Olympic compresses three biomes into 922,000 acres west of Seattle. The Pacific edge runs to tidepools at Hole in the Wall, the rainforests climb the Hoh and Quinault valleys—two of the only temperate rainforests in the lower 48—and the Olympic Mountains push above 7,000 feet at Mount Olympus. Hurricane Ridge lost its day lodge to a 2023 fire and still hasn’t rebuilt; the conceptual design phase wraps in 2026 with no completion date set. The road runs anyway, with portable restrooms and a daily cap of 315 vehicles. Lake Crescent Lodge reopened April 17, and Kalaloch Lodge stays open year-round on the cliffs above the kelp beds.

Olympic National Park. Jachan DeVol/Unsplash

Dry Tortugas National Park

  • Florida

Seventy miles west of Key West, past the last channel marker, Fort Jefferson sits on a sand island in 100 square miles of reef-flecked water. The fort was the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere when construction stopped in 1875; it never housed a battle, just Lincoln conspirator Samuel Mudd. The Yankee Freedom III ferry (2026 fare is $220 per adult, departs Key West at 8 a.m.) is the only authorized passenger boat. Key West Seaplane Adventures runs the 45-minute flyover at $507 half-day, $890 full-day. Snorkel the moat wall, tour the fort, or watch the sooty terns at Bush Key. If you decide to overnight, there are 13 primitive campsites on Garden Key—no restaurants, no fresh water and no excuses for forgetting sunscreen.

Dry Tortugas National Park. Bryan Goff/Unsplash

Great Basin National Park

  • Nevada

In the empty quarter of eastern Nevada, Great Basin offers what Vegas does not: silence and the Milky Way. The park stands out among others in the U.S.; it is one of just 27 International Dark Sky Sanctuaries. From September 10 through 12 this year, the Astronomy Festival pairs the new moon with telescope tours of the 27-inch Great Basin Observatory. The Lehman Caves, however, are the marquee attraction. They closed in October 2025 for an electrical-system overhaul and reopen May 22, 2026, in limited capacity—only the 30-minute Gothic Palace Lantern Tour, where visitors carry rechargeable lanterns through the marble passages like extras in a Victorian séance.

Great Basin National Park. Chris Kofoed/Unsplash

Voyageurs National Park

  • Minnesota

First things first: Voyageurs is a water park. More than a third of its 218,000 acres is lake—pristine boreal water carved by glaciers along the Canadian border, 655 miles of undeveloped shoreline, 500 islands. Everything moves by boat. Houseboats from Ebel’s, Rainy Lake or Voyagaire run a week; ranger-led pontoon tours into Kettle Falls leave from Rainy Lake Visitor Center starting June 15, 2026. The night sky is the other reason to go: Voyageurs is an International Dark Sky Park, and the Conservancy’s Boreal Stargazing Week in February pairs aurora viewing with cross-country skiing. Kettle Falls Hotel, the only lodging inside the park, is reachable by boat across two international borders.

Voyageurs National Park. Shelly Anderson/Unsplash

Katmai National Park and Preserve

  • Alaska

In Katmai National Park and Preserve, the salmon run up Brooks Falls in late June, and the brown bears are waiting. The boardwalks at Brooks Camp put visitors 40 feet from a fishing bear. Fat Bear Week, the explore.org bracket that turns September weight gain into a meme, runs in late September; 2025’s champion was Bear 32:  “Chunk,” jaw broken, still winning. Brooks Lodge sells out via lottery, but Brooks Camp Campground takes 60 people a night behind an electric bear fence at $18 per person.

Katmai National Park and Preserve. Paxson Woelber/Unsplash

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

  • Tennessee

The most-visited national park in America (12.2 million visits in 2024’s blockbuster season) straddles the Tennessee-North Carolina line. Kuwohi—the 6,643-foot peak that was known as Clingmans Dome until the U.S. Board on Geographic Names restored its Cherokee name in September 2024—gives the highest views in the Smokies. Cades Cove’s 11-mile loop closes to motor vehicles every Wednesday from May 6 through September 30, 2026, the morning bike loop a local rite.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park. David Hertle/Unsplash

Zion National Park

  • Utah

Zion’s red sandstone walls do the work—2,000 feet of rust-colored Navajo Sandstone, slot canyons cut by the Virgin River and the steepest, most photographed switchbacks in the Southwest. Angels Landing, the chains-and-spine ridge route to a 1,488-foot drop, requires a permit lottery year-round ($6 application plus $3 per person). The Narrows, the bottom-up wade through the canyon’s inner gorge, requires no permit but does require gear that can take a soaking. The free Zion Canyon Shuttle runs March 7 through November 28, 2026. Like Yosemite, a new $100 nonresident surcharge applies here.

Zion National Park. Arnaud Mariat/Unsplash

Glacier National Park

  • Montana

Glacier National Park axed its reservation system completely for 2026—that includes no more vehicle reservations at Going-to-the-Sun Road, North Fork, Many Glacier or Two Medicine. The trade-off: a new three-hour parking limit at Logan Pass starting July 1 and a ticketed-only express shuttle replacing the old, free hop-on system. The Going-to-the-Sun Road, the engineering masterpiece that crosses the Continental Divide at 6,646 feet, opens between mid-June and early July 2026, depending on plowing. Unfortunately, the 26 named glaciers that survive are predicted to be gone by 2100.

Glacier National Park. Harrison Steen/Unsplash

Shenandoah National Park

  • Virginia

Shenandoah has a big birthday during America’s big year: it turns 90 in 2026. Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the park at Big Meadows on July 3, 1936, after the Civilian Conservation Corps built the trails, lodges and overlooks during the New Deal—Shenandoah was the CCC’s first park, with about 10,000 enrollees across 10 camps. The 105-mile Skyline Drive runs the spine of the Blue Ridge between Front Royal and Rockfish Gap with 75 overlooks. Stony Man (1.6-mile loop) and Hawksbill (4,051 feet, the highest point in the park) handle the easier climbs; Old Rag’s 9.5-mile boulder scramble requires a $2 day-use ticket from March 1 through November 30, 2026.

Shenandoah National Park. Durul Dalkanat/Unsplash

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

  • Hawaii

Kilauea has been erupting in episodes since December 2024. Forty-five episodes through April 2026, lava fountains as high as 1,500 feet from Halemaʻumaʻu, episode 46 forecast for early May. The USGS daily update is the place to check before booking—when the show is on, the after-dark glow from Uēkahuna Overlook (the rebuilt former Jaggar Museum site) is the closest most people will ever come to a planet making itself. Mauna Loa, also in the park, has been suspiciously tame since its 2022 eruption.

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Cedric Letsch/Unsplash

Petrified Forest National Park

  • Arizona

Petrified Forest sits along Interstate 40 in northeastern Arizona, where 218 million years of sediment have eroded into the Painted Desert badlands. Petrified wood lines the 28-mile park drive—fossilized logs from a Triassic conifer forest that washed into a river system, were buried in volcanic ash and replaced cell-by-cell by silica until they turned into rainbow quartz. Crystal Forest, Long Logs and the Blue Mesa drive deliver the showstoppers. New for 2026: a fossil prep lab inside Rainbow Forest Museum at the south entrance. Last summer, paleontologists announced a 209-million-year-old jaw fossil here from Eotephradactylus mcintireae—North America’s oldest known pterosaur.

Petrified Forest National Park. Joseph Corl/Unsplash
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12 Historic U.S. Hotels Where America’s Defining Moments Unfolded https://observer.com/list/historic-american-hotels-united-states-history/ Fri, 15 May 2026 11:35:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1645745 The United States turns 250 this summer, and the run-up has, to put it politely, gotten away from us. There are now two competing federal commissions—one bipartisan and congressionally chartered, the other a White House task force selling million-dollar donor packages with private photo ops attached. PragerU has produced A.I.-generated videos of the founding fathers. The U.S. Mint sadly killed coins commemorating abolition, suffrage and the civil rights movement. There is a planned high school athletics competition called the Patriot Games, which is the actual name, not a parody. Some of it would be funny if it weren’t so obnoxiously expensive.

What survives, oddly, is the architecture of where pivotal moments in the country’s history actually took place. Not the marble rotundas or the battlefield obelisks—both of which were built to be remembered, but instead, the hotels. The places where the founders waited for stagecoaches, where suffragists ran whiskey to wavering legislators, where presidents drafted speeches in shirtsleeves at 2 a.m. because the air conditioning had given out.

Hospitality is not a setting historians often take seriously, which is precisely why so much of the country’s actual business has happened in lobbies and bar rooms and corner suites. Abraham Lincoln finalized his first inaugural in Parlor No. 6. John Maynard Keynes argued exchange-rate parities in a New Hampshire dining room. Harry Burn ran across Capitol Hill to a hotel switchboard to tell his mother the 19th Amendment had passed.

Twelve hotels follow. Each is still operating and has documentary evidence of the scene attached to it. The mythologized claims—the Willard inventing “lobbying,” Faulkner writing The Sound and the Fury over a Sazerac at the Monteleone—have been left at the curb. (Though at second glance, a tendency toward exaggeration seems to be an American trait.) What remains is the verifiable kind of history, which is exactly the kind worth booking a room for.

Omni Parker House

  • 60 School St, Boston, MA 02108

This is the longest continuously operating hotel in America, give or take a 2020 pandemic gap that interrupted a 165-year streak. The building Bostonians know—Desmond and Lord, 14 stories, 1927—sits over the foundation of Harvey Parker’s original 1855 establishment, which is to say that the elevators are modern but the address is older than the Civil War. The Saturday Club—which included Emerson, Longfellow, Hawthorne, Holmes, Lowell and Whittier—met upstairs once a month through the 1850s and 1860s. It’s where they conceived The Atlantic Monthly in 1857. Charles Dickens lived in the hotel for five months in 1867 and 1868, and gave the first public reading of A Christmas Carol to the club in the Mirror Room before performing it for paying audiences at Tremont Temple. The real room to ask about, however, is Table 40 in Parker’s Restaurant, where John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier in June 1953. It can still be booked, though the staff prefers you don’t make a thing of it.

Omni Parker House. Omni Parker House

The Willard InterContinental

  • 1401 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, DC 20004

A hotel, in some form, has operated continuously at 14th and Pennsylvania since 1816. The current Beaux-Arts building is by Henry Janeway Hardenbergh, who also did the original Plaza, the original Waldorf and the Dakota. Lincoln stayed in Parlor No. 6 from Feb. 23 to March 4, 1861, smuggled into Washington at 6:30 a.m. by Allan Pinkerton amid the Baltimore assassination plot. The failed pre-war Peace Conference of 21 states was meeting concurrently in the same hotel. He finalized his first inaugural speech in the suite.

It’s more than just Lincoln, though. Julia Ward Howe wrote “Battle Hymn of the Republic” as a Willard guest in 1861. The night before the March on Washington in 1963, Martin Luther King Jr. worked on the final draft of “I Have a Dream” in his suite and the lobby, per Stanford’s King Institute. The hotel insists Grant coined the word “lobbying” while drinking brandy in the lobby. Alas, the verb dates to 1837, decades before Grant was nationally known, and originates with petitioners working the lobby of the British House of Commons.

Willard InterContinental. Willard InterContinental

The Williamsburg Inn

  • 136 E Francis St, Williamsburg, VA 23185

John D. Rockefeller Jr. paid for Colonial Williamsburg’s restoration, an undertaking that turns 100 in 2026, and when it came time to build a hotel on the grounds, he gave Perry, Shaw and Hepburn a single instruction: it must not be confused with anything 18th century. That is, regency, not colonial. Rockefeller and his wife, Abby Aldrich, personally selected the furnishings and rejected four architectural plans before approving the design. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip stayed in 1957 and again on the 50th anniversary of that visit in 2007; the royal suite was redecorated in pastel pinks and greens for her arrival. Emperor Hirohito, King Hussein, King Mohammed V, Winston Churchill and successive U.S. presidents have followed. Ronald Reagan chaired the 9th G7 Summit (the only one he ever chaired) from May 28 to 30, 1983. Margaret Thatcher slept at Chiswell-Bucktrout, Pierre Trudeau at Bracken, Helmut Kohl at Moody, Reagan at Providence Hall. The Foundation closed Colonial Williamsburg’s Historic Area to the public for the first time in its history to host the summit.

Williamsburg Inn. The Vacation Channel

Omni Mount Washington Resort

  • 310 Mount Washington Hotel Rd, Bretton Woods, NH 03575

The white pile in the White Mountains is where the post-WWII global financial order was drafted. From July 1 to 22 in 1944, 730 delegates from 44 nations met at the Mount Washington—Charles Alling Gifford’s Spanish Renaissance fantasy commissioned by the coal-and-rail magnate Joseph Stickney—for the United Nations Monetary and Financial Conference. John Maynard Keynes led the British delegation; Treasury Secretary Henry Morgenthau Jr. and Harry Dexter White ran the American side. The articles establishing the IMF and the World Bank were signed in the Gold Room on July 22, on what had been Carolyn Stickney’s private dining table, beneath a hybrid gas-electric chandelier installed in case the power failed. (It did not.) The architectural detail that makes the place, however, is older than the conference. In June 1944, with the gathering six weeks out and the hotel shuttered since 1942, the federal government dispatched 150 workers, each issued 50 cans of white paint, with orders that “if it didn’t move, paint it white.” Mahogany, brass, Tiffany stained glass—all of it buried under government-issue latex. Restorers are still uncovering pieces of the original interior 80 years later.

Omni Mount Washington Resort. Omni Mount Washington Resort.

The Hermitage Hotel

  • 231 6th Ave N, Nashville, TN 37219

The Hermitage is the only surviving Beaux-Arts commercial building in Tennessee. It’s been a National Historic Landmark since Aug. 28, 2020—the centennial of the 19th Amendment’s ratification. Until the summer of 1920, the hotel was the de facto third house of the Tennessee legislature. NAWSA president Carrie Chapman Catt lived in Suite 309, while anti-suffrage commander Josephine Pearson ran her operation from the eighth floor. Suffragists wore yellow roses, and antis wore red; the antis ran a de facto speakeasy in Room 812, plying wavering legislators with whiskey through Prohibition. On Aug. 18, 1920, with the Tennessee House tied 48 to 48, 24-year-old Rep. Harry T. Burn—wearing a red rose—switched his vote after a letter from his mother urging him to “vote for suffrage.” He subsequently fled the Capitol and ran across the street to the Hermitage to phone Febb Burn to let him know the amendment had passed. A Toby Bishop renovation in 2021 and 2022 added Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Drusie & Darr; the women’s lounge—a maximalist pink homage to the suffragists—is the strongest set piece on the property.

The Hermitage Hotel. Forrest Perkins

The Peabody Memphis

  • 149 Union Ave, Memphis, TN 38103

Elsewhere in Tennessee: The Peabody marked its 100th year in its current building (designed by Walter W. Ahlschlager) on Union on Sept. 4, 2025, with a Memphis Symphony performance and a $30 million renovation that finished the same week. The original 1869 Peabody hosted Andrew Johnson, William McKinley, Robert E. Lee, Nathan Bedford Forrest and Jefferson Davis, who lived there in 1870 as a Memphis insurance executive. Elvis Presley signed his first national RCA recording contract in the hotel on Nov. 21, 1955, the $4,500 bonus typed up on Peabody letterhead by Colonel Tom Parker. The duck march dates to 1933. General manager Frank Schutt and his friend Chip Barwick returned from a Tennessee whiskey-fueled hunting weekend and parked three live English call decoys in the lobby fountain. Bellman Edward Pembroke, a former circus animal trainer, took over in 1940 and served as Duckmaster for 50 years.

The Peabody Memphis. Peabody Memphis

Hotel Monteleone

  • 214 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130

The Sicilian cobbler Antonio Monteleone bought a 64-room hotel at Royal and Iberville in 1886, and his great-great-grandson, Billy Monteleone Jr., runs the place today—that’s five generations and 140 years in the same family, among the longest unbroken family tenures in American hospitality. Albert Weiblen designed the Beaux-Arts core in 1908; it was designated a Literary Landmark by the Friends of the Library Association in 1999, one of three hotels in the country so recognized. Tennessee Williams set scenes of The Rose Tattoo and Orpheus Descending in the rooms upstairs, and Ernest Hemingway wrote the hotel into “Night Before Battle.” Truman Capote joked on Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show that he was born there. Now, for the false narratives: The Faulkner-honeymoon-and-Sound-and-the-Fury claim that the Monteleone has been repeating for half a century is wrong. Faulkner wrote the novel in Oxford, Mississippi, in 1928. He stayed at the hotel on his 1929 honeymoon, when the novel was already at the printer.

Hotel Monteleone. Laura Steffan

Grand Hotel

  • 286 Grand Ave, Mackinac Island, MI 49757

Charles W. Caskey’s Greek Revival pile went up in 93 days. The 660-foot front porch is the world’s longest, verifiably. Mark Twain lectured in the Casino on July 19, 1895—confirmed by his manager, Maj. Pond’s diary at the Bentley Historical Library—for $345, while suffering from a malignant carbuncle and tossing off jokes about latecomers. Thomas Edison demonstrated the phonograph from the porch. A National Historic Landmark since 1989, five U.S. presidents have stayed here: Harry S. Truman, JFK, Gerald Ford, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton. Somewhere in Time was filmed here in 1980, and the bagpipers still play at sunset. KSL Capital Partners bought it in September 2019 with Davidson Hospitality operating; Dan Musser III stayed on briefly during the transition. The Grand is one of the few properties on this list explicitly programming for America 250 in 2026, with expanded Fourth of July celebrations, a Camp Grand initiative and centennial-adjacent tie-ins.

Grand Hotel. Grand Hotel Mackinac

Hotel Jerome

  • 286 Grand Ave, Mackinac Island, MI 49757

Jerome B. Wheeler was an Aspen silver-and-railroad investor (and co-owner of Macy’s) who opened the four-story brick hotel in November 1889. It was modeled on Claridge’s in London, with electric light and an elevator from day one. During Prohibition, the J-Bar served the “Aspen Crud,” a vanilla milkshake spiked with bourbon, which is still on the menu. Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke leased the hotel for 25 years after WWII and launched the Aspen Idea, the Aspen Institute, the Aspen Music Festival and the Aspen Skiing Company, all from the hotel lobby. The fattest seam, though, is Hunter S. Thompson’s 1970 “Freak Power” sheriff campaign, run from a corner table in the J-Bar. Thompson lost to incumbent Carrol Whitmire on Nov. 3 by roughly 500 votes. The journalist’s memorial service was held in the ballroom 35 years later.

Hotel Jerome. Noe DeWitt

La Fonda on the Plaza

  • 100 E San Francisco St, Santa Fe, NM 87501

The site has hosted an inn since 1607; it’s the original Spanish fonda on the Plaza. The current Pueblo Revival building, opened in 1922, is Isaac Hamilton Rapp’s; the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway leased it to the Fred Harvey Company in 1925, and Mary Colter and a young John Gaw Meem rebuilt the interior together in the late 1920s. It’s one of the few buildings on which the two collaborated, and features hand-carved beams, stained-glass skylights, 25-foot cathedral ceiling. Manhattan Project scientists used La Fonda as the public-facing rendezvous between Santa Fe and Los Alamos during WWII—the closest most outsiders ever got to Oppenheimer’s lab.

La Fonda on the Plaza. La Fonda on the Plaza.

Hotel del Coronado

  • 1500 Orange Ave, Coronado, CA 92118

The James and Merritt Reid Victorian on the beach is the second-largest wooden structure in America. It’s been a National Historic Landmark since 1977, and more than $550 million was spent over its multiyear Blackstone restoration, which was completed when the historic Victorian guest rooms reopened on March 1, 2025—the final phase of a project that touched every public space on the property. L. Frank Baum stayed regularly from 1904 through at least 1910 and wrote three Oz sequels there; he is credited with designing the Crown Room’s crown chandeliers. The line is “16 presidents”—a dozen overnight stays from Benjamin Harrison through George W. Bush are properly documented; the rest are visits. On Sept. 3, 1970, Nixon held the first state dinner ever conducted outside the White House in the pillar-free Crown Room—160 by 60 feet under a 33-foot Oregon sugar pine ceiling—for Mexican President Gustavo Díaz Ordaz, with Reagan, LBJ, Sinatra and John Wayne in attendance.

Hotel del Coronado. Hotel del Coronado

Bright Angel Lodge

  • 9 Village Loop Dr, Grand Canyon Village, AZ 86023

Think of Bright Angel Lodge as the middle-tier complement to El Tovar, designed by Mary Colter in 1935. Wood-frame construction (the Park Service rejected Colter’s preferred all-stone scheme), with hand-adzed log, board-and-batten, stone, stucco and adobe cabins. Colter saved two pre-existing buildings on the site: the Buckey O’Neill Cabin, built in the 1890s by the Rough Rider who was killed at San Juan Hill in 1898 and never returned—now arguably the most coveted overnight room on the South Rim—and the 1890 Red Horse Cabin, the canyon’s post office until 1935. The centerpiece is the Geologic Fireplace in the History Room: Every rock layer of the Grand Canyon, gathered from the canyon walls under park naturalist Edwin McKee’s direction and hauled up by mule, stacked floor to ceiling in stratigraphic order—a 10-foot vertical span representing 1.7 billion years. Hopi muralist Fred Kabotie painted the cocktail lounge.

Bright Angel Lodge. Bright Angel Lodge
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The 12 Best Public Golf Courses Within Two Hours of New York City—No Membership Required https://observer.com/list/best-public-golf-courses-near-nyc/ Mon, 11 May 2026 14:46:37 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1645650 The case for playing public golf near New York City has rarely been stronger, and the timing is no accident. The 2025 Ryder Cup turned Farmingdale’s Bethpage Black into international shorthand for public golf in New York, sending a generation of weekend players hunting for the next great round they can finally book without a member’s introduction. A multimillion-dollar Gil Hanse restoration just reopened one of the Northeast’s most architecturally significant courses to non-members for the first time in two years. Connecticut’s best Pete Dye finally got the rankings credit it had deserved for two decades. And let’s not forget about the muni renaissance—the wave of restored Golden Age municipals running through Hartford, Hamden and Bloomfield, where Devereux Emmet bones and Donald Ross greens have been brought back to their 1930s teeth on public budgets.

For weekend players plotting a day trip from Manhattan, the geography rewards anyone willing to plan it. The tristate area covers more elite public courses than any other two-hour bubble in the country: Tillinghast, Macdonald, Raynor, Ross, Pete Dye, RTJ Sr. and a half-dozen Golden Age architects whose names show up on every top-100 list, all bookable without a country club membership. The car-free angle works harder than people expect, too, with Metro-North, LIRR, NJ Transit and PATH delivering you within rideshare distance of more first-tier courses than you can realistically play in a single season. The list below—featuring 12 of the best public golf courses within two hours of NYC, ranging from Long Island state parks to Pocono resort stay-and-plays to Connecticut munis having their best year in decades—is built for the carless or car-light Manhattanite, with the qualifier that some of these are worth the weekend rental on principle. Just be sure to bring the right shoes, old sport.

Yale Golf Course

  • 200 Conrad Drive, New Haven, CT 06515

One of the most noteworthy courses in 2026 American golf is reachable from Grand Central by 11 a.m. Yale’s 1926 Charles Blair Macdonald and Seth Raynor masterpiece, public for a century but gatekept like it wasn’t, closed for a multimillion-dollar Gil Hanse restoration in 2024 and reopened to non-affiliate play this April 28. The work isn’t exactly subtle: USGA-spec greens, the Punch Bowl 3rd reborn, the Biarritz 9th rebuilt to its original dimensions and double fairways restored at the 3rd and 18th, with the par-3 9th now reading like the photographed icon it always wanted to be. Take Metro-North’s New Haven Line to Union Station and a 12-minute Uber. A few caveats: Non-affiliate fees climb to about $350, the course is closed on Mondays, and you’ll need to book through Whoosh 10 days out. Pair with Wooster Street pizza on the way home.

Yale Golf Course. Yale University

Bethpage Black

  • 99 Quaker Meeting House Road, Farmingdale, NY 11735

The Black is the New York public-golf birthright, and the September 2025 Ryder Cup—the one Europe took 15-13 for the first away win since Medinah—put it back at the top of every itinerary. A.W. Tillinghast’s 1936 design is walking-only and brutal in the best way. The value remains unbeatable, with New York residents paying $70 weekdays and $80 weekends with a Park ID, and non-residents paying $140 and $160. The 4:30 a.m. walk-up wristband line still works for the stubborn, and if the Black is sold out, the Red—Tillinghast 1935, around $90 to $100 non-resident—is the locals’ pick, and the better walking experience, anyway.

Bethpage Black. Bethpage Black

Skyway Golf Course

  • 200 Lincoln Park West, Jersey City, NJ 07304

Built on a reclaimed Hudson County landfill in 2015, Skyway is nine holes of fescue-clad links framed against the Manhattan skyline and the Pulaski Skyway, a course you can reach faster than you can reach your dentist in rush hour traffic. Roy Case and Jeff Grossman routed it on heaving, dune-style ground, with peak weekend rates running $50 to $75 and twilight dropping to $30. Take PATH to Journal Square plus a $12 Uber, the Hudson-Bergen Light Rail to West Side Avenue plus a 15-minute walk, or NJ Transit’s #119 from Port Authority.

Skyway Golf Course. Skyway Golf Course

Shawnee Inn & Golf Resort

  • 100 Shawnee Inn Drive, Shawnee on Delaware, PA 18356

This is A.W. Tillinghast’s first design—full stop. The 1907 routing on a Delaware River island predates everything Tilly went on to do—Winged Foot, Bethpage, San Francisco—and hosted the 1938 PGA Championship, where Paul Runyan beat Sam Snead 8-and-7 (Snead was once the club pro, in case the lineage wasn’t humbling enough). Twenty-seven holes today, plus a Tom Doak six-hole par-3 course on the property and a craft brewery in the historic 1911 inn, with stay-and-play packages bundling room, breakfast and 18 with cart from about $200 per person.

Shawnee Inn & Golf Resort. Shawnee Inn & Golf Resort

Mohonk Mountain House

  • 1000 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz, NY 12561

Among the oldest continuously played courses in America, with Albert Smiley’s original 1897 nine and Robert Pryde’s 1911 redesign still defining a par 35 on a 2,707-yard ridge above the Hudson Valley. It has the kind of severe undulations and Scottish-style blind shots—playing into greens you can’t see—that modern courses grade away. Resort guests play free with overnight stays, and the all-inclusive Mountain House itself, a National Historic Landmark Victorian castle on a glacial lake, is the destination as much as the golf is. Day visitors need a $119 Sports Pass or a dining or spa reservation.

Mohonk Golf. Dana Gallagher

Pound Ridge Golf Club

  • 1 Couch Road, Pound Ridge, NY 10576

Pete Dye’s only New York design (owned by Vera Wang’s brother, Ken) opened in 2008, delivering country-club conditioning at daily-fee rates with peak fees pushing $200. It’s the rare modern Westchester course that looks like its setting, with rock outcrops, beech and hemlock, a glacial-erratic boulder mid-fairway at the par-5 13th and the par-3 15th playing over reeds to a green backed by a stone wall. 7,165 yards, slope 150 from the tips.

Pound Ridge Golf Club. Pound Ridge Golf Club

Wintonbury Hills

  • 206 Terry Plains Road, Bloomfield, CT 06002

Pete Dye and Tim Liddy built this in 2003, the only Pete Dye in Connecticut and, as of 2025, GolfPass’s number one public in the state. Non-resident green fees run about $65 on weekends with cart, roughly a third of what equivalent architecture costs in Westchester, and the routing earns every dollar with a reverse Redan 9th, a signature tree behind the 14th green and the 14-15-16 stretch along Bloomfield Reservoir.

Wintonbury Hills. Wintonbury Hills

Keney Park

  • 200 Tower Avenue, Hartford, CT 06120

If the municipal renaissance has a flagship, this is it. Devereux Emmet laid out the front nine in 1927, and Robert “Jack” Ross the back nine in 1931, all of it within the Olmsted firm’s 1896 Hartford park. Matt Dusenberry’s $6 million 2016 restoration returned the templates to their 1930s teeth, with a Redan and restored tile bunkers at the 6th, a reachable Road green at the 9th, a Punchbowl, a Biarritz and a Principal’s Nose at the 17th.

Keney Park. Keney Park

Buck Hill Golf Club

  • 357 Golf Drive, Buck Hill Falls, PA 18323

Robert White designed the original nine at Buck Hill Golf Club in 1907, Donald Ross expanded it to 18 around 1922, and Rees Jones completed a centennial restoration in 2022, putting a real Donald Ross in the Poconos at about $60 a round. The catch—and the reason this is a spring story—is that Buck Hill goes members-only Memorial Day through Labor Day, so book before someone you know does. Pair with one of the other Pocono courses on the Robert White triangle—Shawnee, Glen Brook, Skytop—for a weekend itinerary built around a single architect’s hundred-year footprint.

Buck Hill Golf Club. Buck Hill Golf Club

Crystal Springs Resort (Ballyowen)

  • 105 Wheatsworth Road, Hamburg, NJ 07419

Roger Rulewich (Robert Trent Jones Sr.’s longtime lead designer) built Ballyowen in 1998 as a treeless Celtic links course—7,094 yards, with stacked-stone walls, fescue and bagpipes at sunset, in case you forgot you were in Sussex County. The resort itself runs six courses (Ballyowen, Wild Turkey, Crystal Springs, Black Bear, Cascades and Minerals), two hotels (the AAA Four-Diamond Grand Cascades Lodge and the family-friendly Minerals), three restaurants and a wine cellar holding more than 100,000 bottles, with the 2026 Eagle Unlimited stay-and-play covering four of the six and a surcharge for Ballyowen and Wild Turkey.

Crystal Springs Resort (Ballyowen). Crystal Springs Resort

Hominy Hill

  • 92 Mercer Road, Colts Neck, NJ 07722

The state of New Jersey’s flagship public county course, with a backstory that public golf doesn’t usually get: Robert Trent Jones Sr. built it as a private course in 1964, and the family eventually donated it to Monmouth County. 7,049 yards, 138 bunkers, host of the 1983 U.S. Amateur Public Links and the 1995 U.S. Women’s, with non-resident weekend play running about $95 to $110 with a $270 Player Pass and residents paying closer to $55. Pair with a Sandy Hook beach afternoon.

Hominy Hill Golf Course. Andi Monick

Dutcher Golf Course

  • 135 East Main Street, Pawling, NY 12564

This is the (allegedly) oldest nine-hole municipal course in the United States, per Golf Digest. John Dutcher laid out the original three holes in 1885 and expanded to nine by 1890, with Tom Bendelow having a hand later on. The resulting 42 acres are bisected by original stone farm walls on a par 35, used to rehab Air Force personnel during World War II. Greens fees are $11 for nine and $17 for 18, which is approximately what mini-golf costs, and Metro-North’s Harlem Line to Pawling drops you walking distance from the first tee.

Dutcher Golf Course. Town of Pawling
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The Best Car-Free Spring Hikes Near New York City https://observer.com/list/best-hikes-near-new-york-city-no-cars/ Fri, 08 May 2026 15:38:26 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1644954 Spring in New York City—and more specifically, the month of May—has a way of turning the apartment into a problem. Whether it’s the radiator that won’t quit, the neighbor’s bass line, or the simple fact that the sidewalk smells like garbage soup again, the answer is a train ticket and a trailhead by 10 a.m. Alas, the hike most people default to for a New York day hike is closed. Breakneck Ridge—the iron-staircase scramble above Cold Spring, the metro’s default May hike—is shuttered through 2026 and won’t reopen until mid-2027, when it returns as the centerpiece of the Hudson Highlands Fjord Trail with a new pedestrian bridge at the trailhead, a re-engineered ridge, and a visitor center in Fishkill.

The good news, however, is that the bench is deeper than anyone remembers. With Breakneck out of rotation, the hikes that used to live in its shadow have made their way into the mainstream. Bull Hill, the bigger (and arguably better) ridge just south of it, is having a moment. Sleeping Giant in Connecticut added 28 acres last May and broke ground on a new visitors’ center. Boscobel—the 1808 Federal mansion overlooking West Point—reopened last August with “Preservation in Progress” tours that walk guests through rooms in active states of repair. Storm King unveils Anicka Yi’s first large-scale outdoor commission on May 17. Lambert Castle in Paterson is open for the first time in five years.

Reaching all of this is, perhaps surprisingly, friendly to the carless. Five of the 10 hikes below sit within a 25-minute walk of a Metro-North or NJ Transit platform. Three more involve a single bus from Port Authority, with Coach USA and Short Line still running the routes they have for decades. The May-June window—full leaf-out, working waterfalls before the summer drought, pre-haze visibility down to the Manhattan skyline—is shorter than the season feels. Take advantage with these 10 hikes to tackle, where you can go car-free to the trailhead and back.

Hemlock Falls (South Mountain Reservation, New Jersey)

  • Locust Grove Trailhead, Glen Avenue, Millburn, NJ 07041

Take NJ Transit and step off the Morris and Essex at Millburn, and the trailhead is right there—a hundred yards, less than your walk to the platform from a midtown office. The Lenape-Rahway loop runs 5.9 miles and 767 feet up through a forest the Olmsted Brothers laid out—yes, sons of the man who did Central Park—and the carriage roads still hold their original logic a century on. There’s a shorter spur if all you want is the 25-foot waterfall, which earns its keep after a spring rain. Walk back to Millburn when you’re done. Or ride one stop east to Maplewood Village and put yourself at Lorena’s.

Hemlock Falls. South Mountain Conservancy

The Palisades Long Path (George Washington Bridge to Alpine Lookout, New Jersey)

  • GWB Northwalk entrance, 178th Street and Cabrini Boulevard, New York, NY 10033

The A train at 175th drops you a stairway from the bus terminal, and 10 minutes later, you’re on the GWB Northwalk—the Southwalk’s still closed for repair—heading into 200-million-year-old diabase. From there, the path rolls north along the cliff edge through active peregrine country: Rockefeller Lookout at 4.85 miles, Alpine at roughly eight. The Alpine Boat Basin earns the close. Kearney House, a 1761 stone tavern, is the oldest building on the New Jersey palisade—full stop, no caveats. Catch the Rockland Coaches 9 back to the George Washington Bridge. If you’ve still got room, Fort Lee’s Korean strip starts a few blocks south, and BHC Chicken opened on Main Street in March, which is what to order after eight miles of cliff.

Palisades Long Path. New Jersey Trail Conference

Walkway Over the Hudson (Poughkeepsie, New York)

  • 87 Haviland Road, Highland, NY 12528 (west landing); 61 Parker Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12601 (east landing)

The Hudson Line ends at Poughkeepsie, and 1.28 miles of repurposed 1888 railroad bridge open up 212 feet above the river—call it the laziest legitimate hike on this list, because the bridge does all the climbing for you. It starts with the Roosevelt Ride, a free NPS shuttle that runs from the Poughkeepsie platform to Springwood, Val-Kill and the Vanderbilt Mansion, meeting the 10:35 a.m. train and looping back at five, running seven days a week from May 1. The Hyde Park Trail strings it all together—nine miles of woodland between the FDR estates, doable in a day with shuttle pickups in between. 2026 is Frederic Church’s 200th, so Hudson River School programming is heavy across the valley this season.

Walkway Over The Hudson. Walkway Over The Hudson

Cold Spring Waterfront and Boscobel (Cold Spring, New York)

  • 1601 Route 9D, Garrison, NY 10524

Metro-North’s Hudson Line to Cold Spring puts you a block from the river. Warm up on the flat two-mile loop through Foundry Dock Park, where Civil War cannons were cast, and the West Point Foundry Preserve. Catch the seasonal trolley up. This year’s draw: Boscobel reopened last August after a 17-month closure that started when its library ceiling came down in April 2024, and the “Preservation in Progress” tours run Friday through Monday at $24. Saturday’s farmers’ market sets up on the grounds, and the rose garden peaks in late May.

Boscobel House and Gardens. Boscobel House and Gardens

Mount Beacon Fire Tower (Beacon, New York)

  • 788 Wolcott Avenue, Beacon, NY 12508 (Casino trailhead)

Beacon is 90 minutes north on the Hudson Line, and Main Street walks approximately 1.5 sidewalked, restaurant-lined miles down to the trailhead—latte, lunch, antique literature before the climb. The 200-step staircase follows the bed of the old Mount Beacon Funicular, which was the steepest incline railway in the world when it opened in 1902, and tops out at the restored 1931 fire tower. Manhattan south, Catskills north, on a clear day. Walk back into town for Dia:Beacon, the Richard Serra and Sol LeWitt and Walter De Maria temple inside a former Nabisco box-printing factory. The food is the best argument for hopping a later train back: Lyonshare took Chronogram’s 2025 Readers’ Choice for best new restaurant in the valley, Saint Rita’s Music Room opened last summer at the KuBe Art Center, and Oui Oui Cuisine just moved into a brick-and-mortar this winter.

Scofield Ridge. Scenic Hudson

Anthony’s Nose (Manitou, New York)

  • South Mountain Pass at Route 9D, Garrison, NY 10524

Manitou is the deep cut—a seasonal weekend Hudson Line stop with roughly six trains each way Saturday and Sunday, so pull the May timetable before you commit, since the MTA has been running weekend track work all spring. From the platform, it’s 1.7 miles along Manitou Station Road, then 9D, then South Mountain Pass to the Appalachian Trail, and a short, steep climb on stone steps to the cliff that frames the Bear Mountain Bridge directly below. Peregrines nest on the bridge itself in spring, and the air is the cleanest of the year. The New York Bridge Authority started decking replacement in 2026, so you’ll be staring down at a working construction zone. Ride one stop south to River Outpost Brewing Co. at Peekskill’s Charles Point for a post-hike refreshment.

Anthony’s Nose. Anthony's Nose

Hook Mountain and Nyack (Nyack, New York)

  • 698 North Broadway, Upper Nyack, NY 10960

The 9-line buses out of Port Authority—that’s the 9T, 9AT and 9W—run roughly hourly to downtown Nyack for $8 to $12; if you’d rather start at the GW Bridge Bus Station, the 9 and 9A both drop at the foot of Broadway too. Walk 1.5 miles north to Nyack Beach State Park and start a 5.9-mile loop over Hook Mountain, the 730-foot diabase prow that anchors the northern Palisades and counts as a federally registered National Natural Landmark. Twelve thousand raptors a year ride the thermals through the summit’s hawk-watch site, and the Knickerbocker Ice Company ruins line the river path back down. The coda is Nyack: the Edward Hopper House Museum, Two Villains Brewing, the Farm at Hotel Nyack and Thai hotspot Bangkok Station, which opened late last year inside a railroad-car-shaped building at 12 Park Street.

Hook Mountain. Palisades Park Conservancy

Sleeping Giant Tower Trail (Hamden, Connecticut)

  • 3230 Mount Carmel Avenue, Hamden, CT 06518

Start with the New Haven Line to Union Station, then a 10-minute walk to Church and Chapel on the Green, and finally the 229 Whitney Avenue bus up to Mount Carmel Avenue—three hours door to door, which sounds long until you picture the Saturday Avis line. The crushed-stone Tower Trail switchbacks 1.6 miles up the Giant’s left hip to a four-story stone observation tower with a vantage point all the way to Long Island Sound; the blue-blazed Quinnipiac loop adds a real scramble up the Giant’s head and 400-foot cliff overlooks for a five- to six-mile day, if you’ve got the legs and the stamina. Mountain laurel peaks in early June. The 2026 hooks: a new log-cabin visitors center broke ground last September and opens this season, and the park gained 28 acres last May with the Doolittle property, its biggest expansion since founding.

Sleeping Giant Tower. Sleeping Giant Tower

Bull Hill (Cold Spring, New York)

  • Little Stony Point, Route 9D, Cold Spring, NY 10516

Hudson Line to Cold Spring is the same train Breakneck regulars used to take, and Bull Hill is what New York State Parks and the Fjord Trail are now steering everyone toward in its place. The argument is that it was the better ridge, anyway: more rewarding, no notorious scrambles, same minutes on the train. The full loop runs 5.5 miles and 1,400 feet up to a 1,420-foot summit; a shorter version knocks it down to 3.7. The trailhead is a 20-minute walk north from the platform along Fair Street to Little Stony Point, where a small freshwater beach makes a pre-hike Hudson swim almost mandatory. The Taconic Conservation Corps cut a new Washburn Trail reroute and a viewing platform above the old quarry in 2023, and the Cornish Estate ruins—a 1917 stone manor that burned out in 1958—sit halfway up. Stop at Cold Spring Depot for oysters on the way back.

Cold Spring Trolley. Dallas Phelps

Bear Mountain Loop (Bear Mountain, New York)

  • Bear Mountain Inn, 3020 Seven Lakes Drive, Tomkins Cove, NY 10986

Coach USA’s Short Line out of Port Authority drops you at the Bear Mountain Inn—meaning no walk to the trailhead—for about $21 round-trip, 90 minutes each way. Run it clockwise: up the Major Welch Trail’s rock scrambles to Perkins Memorial Tower (1934, panoramic on clear days to the Manhattan skyline and four states), down the engineered AT stone staircase, more than 700 hand-laid steps that are the most ambitious piece of trail engineering on the entire trail. Mountain laurel peaks in late May along the summit ridge. Two 2026 caveats worth noting: AT, Major Welch and Suffern-Bear Mountain access from the inn is on a posted detour through summer 2027 (some sections may reopen this spring—check NYNJTC), and the Iona Island viewing platform stays closed through spring.

Bear Mountain Loop. Hike the Hudson Valley
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7 Amtrak Trains That Make the Slow Way Worth It https://observer.com/list/best-train-rides-america-amtrak-scenic-routes/ Wed, 06 May 2026 11:30:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1643477 Train travel in America has always been something of a dare. The country laid 250,000 miles of track in the 19th century, effectively invented the long-distance passenger train, then spent most of the 20th century backtracking. Something shifted in the last few years. Amtrak moved a record 34.5 million passengers in fiscal year 2025—its second straight year of all-time highs—and on April 15, kicked off the largest long-distance railcar order in its history: 800-plus new carriages bound for the routes that actually show you the country. The Acela gets the magazine covers, but the NextGen Avelia Liberty trainsets now whip Boston to Washington at 160 miles per hour, and good for them. The real network sits elsewhere: on routes measured in days rather than hours; through canyons no interstate reaches; in the kind of silence that only exists when a phone has nothing to say.

The timing has a peg, of course. The United States turns 250 this summer, and the official commemorations have the subtlety of a stadium giveaway—replica Liberty Bells, a canceled Freedom Train, a FIFA World Cup match staged at Lincoln Financial Field on July 4 because nothing says E pluribus unum like ticketed sport with FIFA’s markup. 

Amtrak is an official America 250 partner, a term that obscures the real story. Its long-distance network carries the country’s founding-era geography more faithfully than any museum program. Saratoga, where the British surrendered in 1777 and the Revolution turned. The Horseshoe Curve, which broke the Alleghenies open in 1854 and made Pittsburgh possible. The old C&O mainline through Appalachia, which built the industrial republic one coal seam at a time. You can visit all three on a ticket that costs less than a flight to Miami.

If this is the year you finally take the slow way, the argument for it is stronger than mere nostalgia. Jet fuel is up, domestic airfares with it, and the experience of American flying has reached a kind of terminal indignity nobody even complains about anymore. Europe’s sleeper train renaissance has reminded a generation of travelers that overnight rail still works as both transit and hotel—that a journey can be the point, not the thing you survive to get somewhere. 

Americans are staying stateside at rates unseen since 2020, and the slow-travel instinct, once a European affectation, has crossed the Atlantic with linen and opinions. Seven Amtrak routes reward it. None of them are fast, and several are famously late. The country built them anyway, and the country is better for it.

The Cardinal—New York to Chicago via Charlottesville and the New River Gorge

  • Three weekly departures, roughly 28 hours, on the only Amtrak that draws a U-shape across the eastern United States.

Book eastbound from Chicago if you want the New River Gorge in good light—westbound hits it late in the day for half the year. Out of New York’s Penn Station, the Cardinal cuts south to Charlottesville for Monticello and UVA, then burrows into Appalachia on CSX’s old Chesapeake & Ohio mainline. Past White Sulphur Springs (detrain here for the Greenbrier if the schedule cooperates), the train delivers what no other Amtrak offers: a glide beneath the New River Gorge Bridge, a 3,030-foot arch of COR-TEN steel suspended 876 feet above the river. You pass under it, not over it, framed by cliffs. Twenty minutes later, the train stops at Thurmond, a near-ghost town inside America’s newest national park. Coach is fine; the handful of Viewliner roomettes sell out weeks ahead. Bring a book and food for dinner.

The Cardinal. Amtrak

The Adirondack—New York to Montréal

  • Eleven-plus hours on the east bank of the Hudson, the cleanest car-free run from Manhattan to a foreign country.

Ride the Adirondack northbound in October. The Palisades, West Point, Saratoga—where the British surrendered in 1777 and the Revolution turned—and the west shore of Lake Champlain all catch the fall light, and the train is, forgivably, slow. The route had a bad two years: Canadian National imposed heat restrictions on the Rouses Point Subdivision, killing summer service above Albany in 2023 and 2024. Amtrak’s last dome car, a 1955 Budd called Ocean View, had been retired in 2019 and sold to a Maryland tourist line—a minor national tragedy that nobody publicly mourns. Service resumed, the CN track agreement is funded, and 2025 ridership sat at 83,938, well below the pre-pandemic 117,490—another way of saying the train is delightfully underbooked. NPS rangers narrate Saratoga and Lake Champlain on select Saturdays.

The Adirondack. Amtrak

 The California Zephyr-Chicago to Emeryville

  • Fifty-two hours across seven states, Amtrak’s longest daily train and the strongest case for American West scenery.

Book a westbound roomette on this train and make sure to sit on the left for the Rockies, right for the Sierras. Past Denver, the Zephyr climbs the Front Range, threads 31 bores and enters the Moffat Tunnel—6.2 miles under the Continental Divide at 9,239 feet, the highest point on the entire Amtrak system and a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark since 1979. Fifteen minutes of dark, then the Colorado River for 238 canyon-filled miles. Upper Gore Canyon has no road, no trail, no way in except this train or a whitewater raft. Glenwood Canyon delivers 12.5 miles of red rock; time a stopover in Glenwood Springs for the hot springs, a short walk from the depot. The original 1949 Zephyr rolled out with Vista-Dome cars and the tagline “look up, look down, look all around,” which still holds. The Sightseer Lounge is open to all.

The California Zephyr. Amtrak

The Empire Builder—Chicago to Seattle or Portland

  • Forty-six hours along the Lewis and Clark corridor, the one Amtrak train that delivers you to a national park’s front door.

Great Plains by dinner, Mississippi at dusk, Twin Cities by nightfall, North Dakota at dawn. By the second morning, the train climbs Marias Pass at 5,213 feet—the Continental Divide crossing Lewis and Clark searched for and missed. Great Northern’s John Stevens located it for the railroad in December 1889; a 60-foot obelisk to Theodore Roosevelt marks the summit. Detrain at East Glacier for the 1913 Glacier Park Lodge, a Swiss-chalet hulk the Great Northern built to sell tourists a Rockies they’d never otherwise see. Essex, Montana, sits deeper in Glacier country—the Izaak Walton Inn opened there in 1939 to house crews shoving helper locomotives over the pass, and later converted four cabooses into guest rooms. The inn closed in March 2026 and was listed for sale at $18 million, so confirm status before booking. The Sightseer Lounge earns its name somewhere near the Montana line.

The Empire Builder. Amtrak

The Pennsylvanian—New York to Pittsburgh

  • A nine-hour day-train over the route that broke the Alleghenies and turned Pittsburgh from river town into steel capital.

Board at Penn Station before 11 a.m. and you’ll take the Horseshoe Curve in afternoon light. About five miles west of Altoona, the Pennsylvanian rounds it—2,375 feet long, 220 degrees of arc, designed by Pennsylvania Railroad chief engineer John Edgar Thomson and dug mostly by Irish immigrants who arrived with shovels and stayed to build the town. The curve has been a National Historic Landmark since 1966 and an ASCE Historic Civil Engineering Landmark since 2004. Its stakes were sharpened in June 1942, when a U-boat landed eight Abwehr saboteurs on Long Island with the curve and the Altoona shops on their target list. Six were executed. Today the bend carries 50-odd Norfolk Southern freights a day—plus the Pennsylvanian, the only passenger train that still takes the curve, once in each direction at a scheduled 35 mph. Sit on the right side westbound; the view runs out the window for a full minute.

The Pennsylvanian. Amtrak

The Coast Starlight—Los Angeles to Seattle

  • Thirty-five hours up the spine of the West Coast, most famous for a stretch the Pacific handles itself.

Board in Los Angeles and ride northbound and sit on the left for the ocean, right for Mount Shasta at sunrise. The selling point is a 104-mile run between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo where the rails hug a ledge above the Pacific, no highway visible, nothing between you and the water. Ridership climbed past 359,000 in 2024; Amtrak added a third coach car for summer 2025, and the train still books out in advance. What’s gone is the Pacific Parlour Car, a 1956 Budd Hi-Level lounge rebuilt from Santa Fe’s El Capitan and called, fairly, a living room on rails. Amtrak retired the fleet on February 4, 2018—a decision the long-distance rider population has not forgiven and should not. The Sightseer Lounge remains, open to all, with panoramic windows and the same Pacific. No replacement has been ordered. The view pays the bill anyway.

The Coast Starlight. Amtrak

The Crescent—New York to New Orleans

  • Thirty hours and 1,377 miles through 12 states plus D.C., from the northeastern megalopolis to the Mississippi Delta.

No other Amtrak route crosses more jurisdictions. The train is the lineal descendant of the 1891 Washington & Southwestern Vestibuled Limited, the first sleeper service to carry dining cars between New York and New Orleans. It glides through Charlottesville, Charlotte, Atlanta and Birmingham, crosses Lake Pontchartrain on the longest railroad bridge in the United States—5.8 miles of trestle over saltwater—and terminates a few blocks from the French Quarter. Book a roomette for the overnight leg; the coach seats are fine south of Atlanta when the scenery earns the window. In July 2024, the Justice Department sued Norfolk Southern for failing to give the Crescent the track priority federal law requires. January 2026 on-time performance hit 84.8 percent, which for Amtrak is a minor miracle. Ride it with a book and no hurry. The dining car still serves flat iron steak.

The Crescent. Amtrak
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The Best Barbershops in New York City https://observer.com/list/best-barbershops-new-york-city/ Thu, 30 Apr 2026 14:05:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1635290 Spring does something to men’s hair in this city. The winter beanie comes off, the damage reveals itself, and suddenly every guy in Manhattan is staring at his reflection on the subway glass, wondering if it’s time to try something new. It is. And New York, for all its failures of affordability and common sense, remains the best city in America to sit in a barber’s chair, which, for the uninitiated, is a different proposition than a salon. A salon styles. A barbershop cuts. The tools are different (hot lather, straight razors, clippers), the training is different, and the loyalty between a man and his barber rivals anything you’d find in a therapist’s office. 

The first great barber here was an enslaved Haitian-born man named Pierre Toussaint, who arrived in Manhattan in 1787 and became the most sought-after hairdresser among the city’s elite before buying his freedom in 1807. He is the only layperson buried in the crypt beneath St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and every New York barbershop since has operated on the principle Toussaint understood 200 years ago: that the chair is where craft, identity and trust converge.

By 1913, Joseph Molé opened a shop on Lexington Avenue that still operates today. What happened in the chairs across the city tracked every cultural shift that followed. The pompadour carried the postwar decades. The afro, which was a deliberate rejection of the barber’s chair as much as a political statement, nearly killed the industry in the 1970s. It might have stayed dead if hip-hop hadn’t revived it with the hi-top fade exploding out of Harlem and Brooklyn in the mid-1980s, which turned barbershops back into essential cultural cornerstones. That revival owed everything to Black barbershop culture, which had sustained the institution during the lean years—shops from the South Bronx to Bed-Stuy functioning as communal living rooms and political forums long before the rest of the city remembered that a good barber was worth knowing. 

The modern renaissance is, in large part, a rediscovery of something Black New Yorkers never lost. Today, the range spans from neighborhood-priced to genuinely extravagant, with excellent work at every tier. A city with this many barbershops could never be captured in a single list. There are institutions and innovators in every borough that deserve their own entries, and leaving anyone out is an occupational hazard of the format. Neighborhoods matter, but neighborhood barbers matter more. Here are 16 worth knowing.

Haar & Co.

  • 45 Christopher St., New York, NY 10014

Michael Haar sang at the Metropolitan Opera as a boy before training at the American Barber Institute, apprenticing in London and studying under Italian masters—a résumé that sounds fictional but explains everything about this Art Deco jewel box on Christopher Street. Every appointment runs a 30-minute minimum with Proraso straight-razor finishes and espresso pulled on arrival.

Haar & Co.. Haar & Co.

Paul Mole Barbershop

  • 1034A Lexington Ave., New York, NY 10021

Joseph Molé opened a barbershop on Lexington Avenue in 1913 after inheriting his uncle’s establishment around the corner. The address has shifted slightly over the decades, but the three original chairs made the move every time. Adrian Wood, an Englishman, took over in the 1970s and still runs the place alongside Michael Wood. Fathers bring their sons here, and those sons bring theirs. At around $40 a cut, it may be the last appointment on the Upper East Side that hasn’t adjusted for inflation.

Paul Mole Barbershop. Paul Mole Barbershop

Barberino’s

  • 520 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10022 (flagship)
  • 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10112

Co-founder Michele Callegari’s great-grandfather, Giovanni, emigrated from Italy in 1910 and cut hair under the name “Barberino.” Four generations later, Callegari and Niccolò Bencini resurrected that legacy into Italy’s leading grooming house, opened a Madison Avenue flagship and followed it with a second outpost at 30 Rockefeller Plaza. Grand Central is next, and the early returns suggest the hypothesis that American men are ready for grooming treated with Italian dinner-hour seriousness is correct.

Barberino’s. Barberino's

Astor Place Hairstylists

  • 2 Astor Pl., New York, NY 10003

Walk-in only since 1947, aggressively indifferent to aesthetics and the closest thing New York has to a democratic institution that also gives excellent haircuts. Barber Jose has held his chair for 25-plus years; men cross the Hudson from New Jersey specifically for his hands. The walls are layered in decades of celebrity Polaroids nobody has bothered to curate, and the Saturday crowd—punks, bankers, tourists sharing the same plastic bench—is a beautiful chaos you cannot manufacture.

Astor Place Hairstylists. Astor Place Hairstylists

Neighborhood Barbers

  • 439 E. 9th St., New York, NY 10009

Three chairs, no signage worth noticing and a Russian-born master barber named Eric Uvaydov who has held court here for 25 years, even as the East Village gentrified in concentric waves around him. From editors to grad students, everyone takes the same numbered ticket—Uvaydov has not adjusted a single thing about his practice since the Clinton administration.

Neighborhood Barbers. Neighborhood Barbers

Martial Vivot Salon Pour Hommes

  • 39 W. 54th St., New York, NY 10019 (flagship)
  • 639½ Hudson St., New York, NY 10014

Vivot started apprenticing in the south of France at 15, then trained in London, and finally showed up in Manhattan in 1999, attracting clients who need partitioned stations and complimentary bourbon to take the edge off what they’re about to spend. A cut in his chair runs $420, and nobody who’s sat in it has ever called it unreasonable twice. Protégés trained in his image now staff both the Midtown flagship and a West Village location, which means you can get the Vivot school of thought without the Vivot price tag, though plenty of people pay it, anyway.

Martial Vivot Salon Pour Hommes. Martial Vivot Salon Pour Hommes

Fleischman Salon

  • 424 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10017 (flagship)
  • 57 W. 57th St., New York, NY 10019
  • 381 Park Ave. South, New York, NY 10016

Fleischman calls itself a salon, and technically it is one—no clippers cross the threshold, every cut is scissor-over-comb and the experience has more in common with a high-end stylist than a traditional barbershop. It lands on this list anyway because the results are unmistakably barbershop-caliber: precise, structural, built to hold shape. A Fleischman haircut at week six still looks like a Fleischman haircut, which is more than most clippers can promise at week two.

Fleischman Salon. Fleischman Salon

Fellow Barber

  • 5 Horatio St., New York, NY 10014 (West Village flagship)
  • 33 Crosby St., New York, NY 10013 (SoHo)
  • 101 N. 8th St., Brooklyn, NY 11249 (Williamsburg)
  • Additional locations in NoMad and Hudson Yards

Sam Buffa opened this West Village spot in 2006 before the phrase “barbershop renaissance” existed, and the argument can be made that every shop on this list owes him a modest debt. Additional locations in SoHo, Williamsburg, NoMad and Hudson Yards followed—the Williamsburg outpost inherited a former Yeah Yeah Yeahs rehearsal space. Fellow Barber also runs a “Pay What You Can” program for clients in financial need.

Fellow Barber. Fellow Barber

Geno’s Barberia

  • 48 Greenwich Ave., New York, NY 10011

Geno Bicic learned to cut hair at 13 in Montenegro, moved to New York at 24 and spent a decade barbering at a friend’s shop down the block before opening his own place in 2010 with nothing but a client list and a lease. A Times mention followed, a fourth chair was added and word of mouth did the rest—Square CEO Jack Dorsey plugs the shop on his own social media unprompted, and Daniel Day-Lewis, Nick Wooster and Sean Avery are known to have been regulars.

Geno’s Barberia. Geno's Barberia

12 Pell

  • 12C Pell St., New York, NY 10013

When an NBA franchise trusts you with a first-round pick’s hairline, you’ve made the argument. The Knicks featured 12 Pell in their official Rookie’s Guide to New York, the city cheat sheet handed to newly drafted players who need to look camera-ready before their first press conference. A consultation here includes an assessment of hair texture, scalp condition, and bone structure, which takes longer than most shops spend on the entire appointment, and that forensic intake is exactly why people travel boroughs for barber Tim’s chair.

12 Pell. 12 Pell

Made Man Barbershop

  • 170 W. 23rd St., New York, NY 10011 (flagship, Chelsea)
  • Five additional Manhattan locations

Sam Chulpayev emigrated from Uzbekistan, where his grandfather ran a barbershop, and opened a five-chair storefront on West 23rd Street in 2013 that filled so fast he expanded across the street within a year. The family operation has since grown to six NYC locations without losing the original shop’s personality, informed by Sam Chulpayev’s personal collection of antique barber tools dating to the 1880s, including a brass cash register and a chair from 1901.

Made Man Barber Shop. Made Man Barber Shop

Mildred New York

  • 124 Ridge St., New York, NY 10002

Rob McMillen and Eric Holmes left Blind Barber to build the opposite of a speakeasy barbershop—named after both their grandmothers, who happened, with storybook neatness, to both be named Mildred. A collaboration with menswear label 3sixteen sends 10 percent of product sales to the local elementary school PTA, which tells you everything about the clientele and the values.

Mildred New York. Mildred New York

Persons of Interest

  • 84 Havemeyer St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (Williamsburg)
  • 88 S. Portland Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11217 (Fort Greene)
  • 299 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY 11231 (Carroll Gardens)

The Williamsburg flagship shares square footage with Buzzed Monkey Records; Fort Greene neighbors Brooklyn Tailors; Carroll Gardens anchors Smith Street. All three seat you in restored 1960s Belmont chairs with built-in ashtrays, hand you a cold beer and let the barbers show you why their personal followings function like small congregations.

Persons of Interest. Persons of Interest

The Stepping Razor

  • 952 Flushing Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11206

Barber Danny has been at this cash-only, appointment-only spot for 13 years—clients have booked flights from other time zones to sit in Niamh’s chair, which is the species of loyalty most businesses never even approach. Cape Verdean-owned since 2010, with mint-green plaster walls, skateboard decks for décor and a resident mutt named Buckley who has never once rushed a client.

The Stepping Razor. The Stepping Razor

Cut Shop

  • 191 Nassau Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11222

Tomcats Barbershop was a Greenpoint institution on India Street—who could forget the free PBR the moment you sat down— and a vibe users described on Foursquare as a cross between a motorcycle bar and a Harlem barbershop. In October 2019, the crew received a text message from the out-of-state owner giving them two days’ notice that the shop was closing. Manny Zee, who spent nine years at the original, and David Arce led the regrouping—the entire team refused to split up, and serviced clients at neighboring shops until they could sign a new lease and reopen together on Nassau Avenue as Cut Shop.

Cut Shop. Cut Shop

Frank’s Chop Shop

  • 19 Essex St., New York, NY 10002

Mike Malbon opened this on Essex Street in 2006 and named it after Benjamin Franklin—”a smart modern man of leisure of his time,” as he put it. When the shop first opened, the neighboring brothel assumed it was a surveillance front, and SWAT teams would raid next door while clients sat mid-shave in the four vintage chairs. First-chair barber Brandon “Mr. Bee” Wiseman, a self-taught cutter who learned on mohawks during a punk-skater youth in Boston, has held the same station for over a decade. Adrien Brody, Drake, Anderson Cooper and GZA have all sat in those chairs.

Frank’s Chop Shop. Frank's Chop Shop
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The Sovereign Dandy: Colman Domingo’s Style Evolution https://observer.com/list/colman-domingo-best-style-moments-fashion-evolution/ Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:15:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1642917 Some celebrities arrive on the red carpet, but Colman Domingo does more than that—he processes. A brocade cape snagged in a breeze, a lapel the color of a bruised plum, a brooch that reads, on second look, like a rebuttal. By the time the photographers settle, he has already declared something about Harlem, about the Moors, about André Leon Talley, about a kid from West Philadelphia who went to high school with Will Smith and once performed aerial acts in a traveling circus before spending three decades in character work waiting for Hollywood to catch up.

Domingo learned dandyism at home. His brother, his stepfather and his biological father, who shared his name and not much else, each taught him a different dialect. The elder Colman wore white Italian trousers cut tight and flared, Sunday preacher robes that argued for his soul and, depending on the hour, the wardrobe of a man his son would later describe to a Met Gala press room as one of the greatest womanizers the planet has produced. A robe and a flare. The Lord and the street. The whole idea of his son’s red carpet lives inside that single closet.

Born in Philadelphia in 1969, Domingo enrolled at Temple University as a journalism student in 1987, before an acting teacher named Chris Wolfe told him he had a gift and rerouted his life. He landed in the San Francisco Bay Area at 21, spent years building a theater career from scratch and nearly quit acting in 2014. Fear the Walking Dead arrived the next year and gave him 109 episodes as Victor Strand. Euphoria won him the Emmy for his portrayal of a recovering drug addict. “Rustin” and “Sing Sing” earned back-to-back Best Actor nominations, the first Afro Latino to pull off the double. In May 2025, he co-chaired the Metropolitan Museum’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” the Costume Institute’s first exhibit on Black dandyism, which raised a record $31 million. Valentino signed him as menswear ambassador under Alessandro Michele, then tapped him in October as global fragrance ambassador for Valentino Beauty. He hosted Saturday Night Live for the first time on April 11, 2026, earned an Emmy nomination for The Four Seasons with Tina Fey and received the NAACP President’s Award. Michael opened in theaters two weeks later. The style belongs, in part, to Wayman Bannerman and Micah McDonald, the Harlem duo dressing him since roughly 2022. Call it Sovereign Dandy. Here are the receipts, in order.

1st Annual NewNowNext Awards

  • New York, 2008

For Logo TV’s inaugural queer entertainment ceremony, post-Will & Grace era, Domingo, who had broken through on Logo’s own The Big Gay Sketch Show alongside a young Kate McKinnon, was by any honest accounting one of the first serious actors in the room. Slim dark suit, white dress shirt open at the collar, black belt, black shoes—a sharp fit, but safe choices. He dressed like he was auditioning for a network pilot, not attending an awards show he helped make possible.

Colman Domingo NewNowNext Awards. Charles Eshelman/FilmMagic

Opening Night of The Metal Children

  • Vineyard Theatre, New York, 2010

For the opening of Adam Rapp’s paranoid satire about a young-adult novelist accused of corrupting teenagers, staged at the Vineyard on East 15th Street, Domingo turned up in the kind of downtown theater-guy outfit that has since gone functionally extinct: gingham button-down, black sport coat softened at the shoulder, no tie and no pretending one was missing.

Colman Domingo attends the opening night of “The Metal Children.” John Lamparski/WireImage

Tony Honors for Excellence in the Theatre

  • Paramount Hotel, New York, 2011

The annual benefit concert at the Center on West 13th Street was five months after Domingo’s first Tony nomination for The Scottsboro Boys. Patchwork blazer with navy vertical stripes on the body and contrasting plaid panels at the sleeves, white shirt open at the chest, gray washed jeans and scuffed leather lace-up boots, with the blazer doing the work of three garments at once.

Colman Domingo attends “Broadway Sings For Pride.” Simon Russell/Getty Images

25th Annual Broadway Flea Market

  • Bernard B. Jacobs Theatre, New York, 2011

Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS holds its annual Flea Market every September in Shubert Alley, where casts of every running show set up signing tables and the gig is four hours of autographs under a sun that does not negotiate. Domingo arrived in a mint-green cardigan with gray trim along the V-neckline, layered over a gray tee, dark indigo jeans, gray sneakers and a watch. The whole fit radiates theater-camp counselor on his day off.

Colman Domingo attends the 25th annual Broadway Flea Market. Paul Zimmerman/WireImage

Neva and Detroit ’67 Opening Night

  • The Public Theater, New York, 2013

The Public was staging two Black women playwrights in rep that spring: Guillermo Calderón’s Neva alongside Dominique Morisseau’s Detroit ’67. Domingo arrived in a black double-breasted blazer over an open white shirt with a long swath of earth-tone African wax print ascot draped between the lapels, camel fur-felt porkpie with a feather tucked in the band tilted on top. Oversized black frames, a pocket square, a grin that said the whole outfit was…certainly on purpose.

Colman Domingo at Neva and Detroit Opening Night. Paul Bruinooge/PatrickMcMullan.c

Selma New York Premiere

  •  Ziegfeld Theatre, New York, 2014

Ava DuVernay’s Selma premiered in New York four days before Christmas. Domingo played Ralph Abernathy and arrived dressed like he had studied the period instead of acted through it. He chose a combination of vintage Valentino and Vivienne Westwood—cream wool overcoat, double-breasted, worn draped over the shoulders above a matching cream waistcoat and a white band-collar shirt. Navy slim trousers, black leather gloves on both hands clasped at the waist, black dress shoes. A beaded necklace—he said they were prayer beads—with a rectangular pendant at the collarbone. The gloves were the most photographed detail of the evening.

Colman Domingo Selma NYC Premiere. Eugene Mim/PatrickMcMullan.com

Selma European Premiere

  • Curzon Mayfair, London, 2015

Most men hide a pattern inside a tuxedo, but Domingo made the shirt the entire event, sporting a black tuxedo with satin peak lapels and a black-and-white polka-dot dress shirt fully visible from collar to waist, black satin bow tie knotted over the dots with a white pocket square folded flat.

Colman Domingo at the European premiere of “Selma.” Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images

Fun Home Broadway Opening Night

  • Circle in the Square Theatre, New York, 2015

Jeanine Tesori and Lisa Kron’s adaptation of Alison Bechdel’s graphic memoir about her closeted gay father eventually won five Tonys. For the opening night, Domingo arrived in a two-piece suit in an indigo ground covered in stippled psychedelic swirls of tangerine, red and electric blue, notch lapels, a black shirt open at the throat, blue stud earrings, a beaded bracelet on the right wrist and a watch on the left. A printed suit at a 2015 Broadway opening was not a choice other men his age were making—the ballroom was still running on Hugo Boss charcoal and bow ties that had never been untied.

Colman Domingo at “Fun Home” opening night. Sylvain Gaboury/PatrickMcMullan.

Entertainment Weekly’s 2016 Pre-Emmy Party

  • Nightingale Plaza, Los Angeles, 2016

Five years before Hollywood men collectively found the wrap top, Domingo arrived at EW’s annual September ritual in a dark plum silk jacquard wrap top sashed at the hip, black trousers, patent dress shoes and sunglasses held in one hand. Kimono at the waist, Savile Row at the shoulder, Moroccan kaftan through the drape.

Colman Domingo attends Entertainment Weekly’s 2016 Pre-Emmy Party. David Livingston/Getty Images

If Beale Street Could Talk Premiere

  • Princess of Wales Theatre, Toronto International Film Festival, 2018

In Barry Jenkins’s first film after Moonlight‘s Best Picture win, Domingo played Joseph Rivers. For the premiere, he wore an electric cobalt Haider Ackermann two-piece suit over a matching draped wrap blouse with a loose cowl at the neckline, black leather belt, black Chelsea boots, a dark bag strap cutting diagonally across one shoulder. Tonal dressing at this volume in 2018 was Thom Browne territory, and every inch above the ankle was committed to the same blue.

Colman Domingo attends the “If Beale Street Could Talk” premiere. Presley Ann/Getty Images

93rd Annual Academy Awards

  • Union Station, Los Angeles, 2021

You may recall the pandemic Oscars, staged inside Union Station instead of the Dolby. Limited capacity, no afterparties and a carpet full of men dressed like they were attending a Zoom funeral. Domingo, on the other hand, wears a hot fuchsia Versace suit with shawl lapels with cascading vertical crystal strands raining down the shoulders and chest. Gold rings, gold bracelet. Total commitment to a color most men will not even wear in a pocket square, worn to the most subdued Oscars in living memory.

Colman Domingo attends the 93rd Annual Academy Awards. Chris Pizzello-Pool/Getty Images

Euphoria Season 2 Photo Call

  • Goya Studios, Los Angeles, 2022

Sam Levinson rolled out Season 2 at Goya Studios in early January and Domingo went full cream for this photo call: patent-finish ecru trench hanging open with the belt dangling loose, white crewneck underneath, cream cropped trousers cuffed at the ankle and cream lace-up boots on chunky soles.

Colman Domingo attends HBO’s “Euphoria” Season 2 Photo Call. Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic for HBO

Miu Miu House Comes With a Bird Screening and After Party

  • Los Angeles, 2022

One of the most graphic suits in his archive: black and white vertical pinstripes run with paint-splatter distressing across the trousers, jacket and trouser cut from the same bolt, a dark Fendi monogram top underneath, a Fendi crossbody worn across the chest, black Chelsea boots on chunky white rubber soles, clear-framed spectacles and a gold chain at the neck. Call it his Beetlejuice setting.

Colman Domingo at Miu Miu Women’s Tales Premiere. Owen Kolas/BFA.com

34th Annual GLAAD Media Awards

  • New York Hilton Midtown, New York, 2023

Fifteen years as one of the most visible out Black actors on the circuit, and he arrived this night with his award-winning role in “Rustin” already in the can. A black Moschino two-piece with white topstitching tracing every seam and gold cross-stitch X patterns worked into the lapels and cuffs, the whole suit looking like a pattern-maker’s working draft that forgot to be hidden. Black shirt remains open at the chest, complete with a pendant necklace, pointed-toe black boots and a red bracelet on one wrist.

Colman Domingo attends the 34th Annual GLAAD Media Awards. Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images for GLAAD

81st Golden Globe Awards

  • The Beverly Hilton, Beverly Hills, 2024

Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton menswear debut had walked in Paris eight days earlier, and Domingo was one of the first men on the carpet in it. He wore a single-breasted Nehru-collar jacket in black, pearl buttons down the front, a silver crystal starburst brooch pinned high on the left chest with a chain draping from it, a white shirt collar visible at the neck, matching trousers and black loafers. Every other man in the ballroom wore a notch lapel, yet he wore a stand-up collar, a direct borrowing from Pharrell’s inaugural Paris show, which itself borrowed from a century of Black dandy tailoring.

Colman Domingo at the 81st Golden Globe Awards. Golden Globes 2024 via Getty Images

29th Annual Critics Choice Awards

  • Barker Hangar, Santa Monica, 2024

A week after the Globes, the Critics Choice Awards staged its carpet inside Barker Hangar in Santa Monica, and the suit Domingo wore sent photographers running back to the benches to file. Here’s what stuck: a Valentino mustard-yellow three-piece over an icy blue shirt and a floor-length gold-sequin coat draped over the shoulders so densely encrusted it shot the hangar lights back into the cameras. Gold metallic Chelsea boots finished the look.

Colman Domingo attends the 29th Annual Critics Choice Awards. Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

96th Oscars Nominees Luncheon

  • The Beverly Hilton, Beverly Hills, 2024

Men tend to wear the most interesting low-stakes tailoring of the season at the unaired Oscars luncheon. Domingo, instead, went split-palette in a long-line black Givenchy tuxedo jacket with peak lapels and a black pocket square, cream wide-leg trousers pleated at the waist and black patent Oxfords.

Colman Domingo attends the 96th Oscars Nominees Luncheon. JC Olivera/Getty Images

30th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards

  • Shrine Auditorium, Los Angeles, 2024

Domingo’s first ceremony as a lead-actor nominee and he wore Off-White by Ib Kamara, specifically a pale ballet pink suit with a wide black satin collar crossing diagonally across the torso to form an oversized X, sash and sculpture at once. Black suede ankle boots, gold watch, multiple rings, the front of his hair bleached silver-blond. Margot Robbie reportedly cornered him backstage to ask how he kept landing on every best-dressed list.

Colman Domingo attends the 30th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards. Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

The Mark Hotel, Departure for the 2024 Met Gala

  • New York, 2024

The Mark at Madison and 77th is the unofficial Met Gala green room, and the photographs outside the hotel have become their own red carpet. The actor outshines the camera flashes in his Willy Chavarria ivory double-breasted jacket with peaked lapels, a dramatic black ruffle blooming at the collar—the back panel extending into a long cape that pooled along the pavement—with wide-leg black trousers sweeping the stone.

Colman Domingo at the 2024 Met Gala. Neil Rasmus/BFA.com

Vanity Fair Awards Insider Event

  • Carlton Cannes, Cannes Film Festival, 2024

The Carlton on the Croisette is the hotel that hosted the first Cannes Film Festival in 1946, and Vanity Fair‘s Awards Insider lunch there in late May ran on the beach sand out back, with the Mediterranean doing the lighting. Domingo wore an Amiri off-white micro-check gingham suit with wide-leg trousers breaking over black leather kitten-heel mules—a shoe decision most men his age will not touch. He wore it to a beach lunch in the French Riviera and made it look like a mandatory part in the dress code.

Colman Domingo attends the Vanity Fair Awards Insider event. Dave Benett/Getty Images for Van

97th Annual Academy Awards

  • Dolby Theatre, Hollywood, 2025

Domingo returned to the Dolby for his second straight Best Actor nomination, this one for Sing Sing, in full red Valentino. Crimson wrap jacket with jet-black peaked lapels, sash-tied at the hip in matching crimson, a red shirt underneath buttoned to the collar, black wide-leg trousers, a small gold brooch at the lapel, black shoes, sunglasses held in one hand, capped off with a watch and stacked bracelets catching light on one wrist. A belted jacket borrows from the kimono, the kaftan and the djellaba.

Colman Domingo attends the 97th Annual Oscars. Kevin Mazur/Getty Images

2025 Met Gala Press Conference

  • Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2025

The morning warm-up is one most co-chairs navigate in a safe black suit so as not to spoil the evening, but Domingo refused. He wore a textured magenta jacquard suit—custom Ozwald Boateng—with single-breasted peak lapels, a white shirt, a dark plum patterned tie, and a black Kangol beret tipped forward on the head. A gold filigree brooch with a green gemstone drop was pinned high on the left lapel, and a red silk pocket square was folded to two points.

Colman Domingo at the 2025 Met Gala Press Conference. Matteo Prandoni/BFA.com

2025 Met Gala Arrivals: “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”

  • Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2025

The Costume Institute staged its first exhibit dedicated to Black dandyism, drawn from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book Slaves to Fashion, and Domingo co-chaired alongside Pharrell, A$AP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton and honorary co-chair LeBron James. He arrived in Valentino by Alessandro Michele: a floor-length royal blue pleated cape cascading from the shoulders to the carpet, worn over a silver metallic bodice and an oversized bib collar in gold and silver brocade with white lace scalloping at its edges, echoing 16th-century Moorish and Iberian cassock collars, with black trousers beneath.

Colman Domingo at the 2025 MET Gala. Bre Johnson/BFA.com

AmfAR Gala Venezia

  • Arsenale di Venezia, Venice Film Festival, 2025

The amfAR Gala runs inside the Arsenale, the ancient Venetian shipyard compound, every August during the festival. Domingo arrived in Valentino emerald jacquard with a pointed open collar, gold buttons down the front, sash-tied at the waist in matching fabric, a white shirt visible underneath, black trousers, black leather loafers and stacked silver bracelets on one wrist.

Colman Domingo attends the amfAR Gala Venezia 2025. Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for amfAR

BoF 500 Gala

  • Shangri-La Hotel, Paris, 2025

The Business of Fashion 500 gala at the Shangri-La on Avenue d’Iéna is the unofficial opening night of Paris Fashion Week, and Domingo walked in wearing almost nothing but a coat. Valentino salt-and-pepper faux-fur jacket, oversized at the shoulder and hitting mid-thigh, over a black crewneck, black flared trousers and black shoes, with tortoiseshell glasses tinted amber. The coat is Alessandro Michele’s signature seventies-in-Rome filter laid over what reads as a Harlem discotheque circa ’78.

Colman Domingo at the BoF 500 Gala. Alexander Fischer/BFA.com

Valentino Fireflies Spring/Summer 2026

  • Paris Fashion Week, 2025

Alessandro Michele’s “Fireflies” show was the first SS26 collection on the Paris calendar, staged the morning after the BoF gala, and Domingo took the front row for the designer he had been wearing nearly exclusively for the past 18 months. He wore a long double-breasted coat in cream jacquard woven with a chocolate-brown geometric grid, black velvet collar and pocket flaps, over a horizontal-stripe turtleneck in green and tan. The coat is bookish, the stripe borrows a Wes Anderson palette. The combo files him under tweedy dandy rather than volume dandy.

Colman Domingo attends Valentino show at Paris Fashion Week. Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Valentino

The Snow Lodge Hospitality Suite at St. Regis World Snow Polo

  • Rio Grande Park, Aspen, 2025

The St. Regis World Snow Polo tournament in Aspen is the alpine-bleached answer to the Palm Beach winter circuit, a three-day spectator sport run on a field of groomed snow where attendees dress more aggressively than the players. Domingo turned up to the Snow Lodge suite in a waist-length faux-fur coat, black slim jeans and brown suede Chelsea boots. Everyone else in the frame is in down and puffer, and he arrived looking like he’d lost his Bianca Jagger.

Colman Domingo at the Snow Lodge Hospitality Suite. Madison McGaw/BFA.com

37th Annual Palm Springs International Film Festival Film Awards

  • Palm Springs Convention Center, Palm Springs, 2026

The Palm Springs Film Awards in early January is traditionally the first ceremony of the Oscar runway, where favorites collect trophies before the Academy has even sent its ballots, and Domingo opened 2026 in Dolce & Gabbana. He wore a three-piece suit in deep chocolate crushed velvet trimmed with tonal satin piping along every lapel. The desert reference is Johnny Carson 1973, which tracks precisely to the Nat King Cole biopic Unforgettable he was directing that fall.

Colman Domingo attends 37th Annual Palm Springs International Film Festival Film Awards. David Crotty/PMC

Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren Fall 2026

  • Ralph Lauren Palazzo, Milan, 2026

Ralph Lauren held his first Milan Men’s Fashion Week presentation in years at the Palazzo Ralph Lauren on Via della Spiga, showing Purple Label and Polo together in a city that tends to treat American tailoring with polite skepticism. Domingo came dressed as the counterargument in a full Ralph Lauren Purple Label three-piece in olive flannel under a long olive wool topcoat thrown open.

Colman Domingo at Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Giovanni Mocchetti/BFA.com

Vanity Fair Oscar Party

  • LACMA David Geffen Galleries, Los Angeles, 2026

Graydon Carter handed the Vanity Fair Oscar party to Mark Guiducci in 2026, and Guiducci moved it out of the Wallis Annenberg and into LACMA’s newly opened David Geffen Galleries. Domingo, on Michael press-tour mode, came in a double-breasted Jacquemus pinstripe in espresso brown threaded with chalk, peak lapels, an oversized crinkled white silk pocket square exploding out of the chest and a Boucheron brooch pinned to the pocket square.

Colman Domingo at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party 2026. Jason Sean Weiss/BFA.com

AFI Awards Luncheon

  • Four Seasons Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, 2026

The AFI Awards honored the year’s ten best films and ten best television programs with a private industry luncheon, this edition recognizing Unforgettable, Domingo’s directorial debut on Nat King Cole. He arrived in McQueen Autumn/Winter 2026 Pre-collection: a tailored knee-length coat in black cavalry twill wool, its lapels, front panels and cuffs trailed in ivory satin-stitch floral embroidery like hothouse vines climbing a garden wall.

Colman Domingo attends the 2026 AFI Life Achievement Award. Etienne Laurent / AFP via Getty Images
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The 12 Most Scenic Tennis Courts Around the World https://observer.com/list/most-beautiful-tennis-courts-world-destinations/ Mon, 27 Apr 2026 11:15:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1641088 A regulation tennis court has been 2,808 square feet since Major Walter Clopton Wingfield patented lawn tennis in 1874, but the landscape surrounding those 2,808 square feet has never been worth more to the hospitality industry than it is right now. Golf dominated resort programming for a century because it consumed acreage and signaled wealth, but the economics have flipped: a single tennis court occupies a fraction of one fairway, generates comparable revenue per square foot and—thanks to padel, the glass-walled doubles format that has quadrupled its global player base to over 35 million since 2018 and now counts 77,000 courts across 150 countries—can be stacked, lit and programmed into a social venue that guests actually use instead of guiltily ignoring for the pool. 

When Luca Guadagnino’s Challengers grossed $96 million and turned Zendaya in a tennis skirt into the defining fashion image of 2024, the last cultural barrier fell: the court stopped being an amenity and became the destination. U.S. tennis participation has since surged 54 percent to 27.3 million players, coaching academies run by Grand Slam champions now anchor entire resort identities, and the facilities going up in 2025 and 2026 are not the neglected hard courts behind the spa that most travelers remember from childhood.

The question, then, is where. The best hotel tennis courts make the same implicit promise: that the setting will be so distractingly beautiful you will forgive yourself for losing. What follows are 12 courts—on cliffs, across private islands, above seas named by Homer—where the scenery reliably wins that competition.

Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, Messinia, Greece

  • Navarino Bay, Costa Navarino, 24001 Pylos, Messenia, Greece

In Homer’s Odyssey, Telemachus sailed to this coast 3,000 years ago looking for his father and found Greeks sacrificing bulls to Poseidon on the beach. Since then, hospitality has only improved. The Mouratoglou Tennis Center occupies nearly five acres above the Ionian Sea with 12 Grand Slam-standard courts—eight clay, four hard—coached by the system Patrick Mouratoglou developed for Serena Williams, Stefanos Tsitsipas and Coco Gauff, plus three panoramic padel courts on the periphery. The Palace of Nestor, a Mycenaean complex dating to 1300 B.C., sits 25 minutes away by car. Christopher Nolan shot his $250 million Odyssey across this landscape in spring 2025, filming the Cyclops sequences at Nestor’s Cave. Costa Navarino now runs Odyssey trails past the locations for guests who prefer their match play with a side of mythology.

Costa Navarino Mouratoglou Tennis Center. Costa Navarino Mouratoglou Tennis Center

II San Pietro di Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

  • Via Laurito 2, 84017 Positano SA, Italy

Most hotels put their tennis court by the pool. Il San Pietro carved theirs 288 feet below the lobby, at the bottom of an elevator bored through solid limestone. It’s rather dramatic, with a single clay court that hangs over the Tyrrhenian Sea, Positano glowing across the bay, and bougainvillea spilling down the rock face above. Carlino Cinque founded the hotel in 1970 after scouting the cliff from a rowing boat—he saw a sheer rock face and decided to build into it, serving as his own architect, engineer and site supervisor because no one else would—and three generations of his family have run it since.

II San Pietro di Positano. Stefano Scatà

Monte-Carlo Country Club, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France

  • 155 Avenue Princesse Grace, 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France

Despite the moniker, the Monte-Carlo Country Club is not technically in Monte Carlo. It sits about 500 feet outside Monaco’s northeastern border in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, a jurisdictional detail that matters to no one standing on its 21 clay courts watching superyachts idle in the harbor below. Nadal won 11 titles here, eight of them consecutive, on terraces cut into the hillside where every changeover comes with an involuntary glance at the Mediterranean. The Letrosne-designed clubhouse opened in 1928, and the dress code has not relaxed since—tennis whites required, clay shoes only.

Monte Carlo Country Club. Monte Carlo Country Club

Cromlix Hotel, Perthshire, Scotland

  • Kinbuck, Dunblane FK15 9JT, Scotland

Andy Murray bought this 34-acre Victorian estate in 2013 (the year he won his first Wimbledon championship) and promptly converted it into a 15-room hotel. The court sits in a woodland clearing, and the umpire’s chair is salvaged from a Murray vs. Federer match. Coaching is available. The Perthshire countryside creates a moody, low-cloud atmosphere, and with only 15 rooms at the hotel, the court is seldom crowded.

Cromlix Hotel. Cromlix Hotel

Gstaad Palace, Gstaad, Switzerland

  • Palacestrasse 28, 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland

Four red clay courts sit at about 3,000 feet in the Bernese Oberland, with wildflower meadows stretching to the tree line, snow-streaked peaks stacking up behind them and a turreted hotel overhead that looks like it was illustrated rather than constructed. The scenery alone would justify inclusion, but the reason to actually go is Roy Emerson. The Australian won 12 Grand Slam singles titles and has run his celebrated Tennis Weeks at the Palace since 1973—five hours of on-court coaching a day, groups of three or four, with the man himself still directing play into his 90s.

Gstaad Palace. Gstaad Palace

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Cap d’Antibes, France

  • Boulevard J.F. Kennedy, 06160 Cap d’Antibes, France

Slim Aarons made his name photographing wealth at leisure, and the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc was where he snapped some of his best photos—his images of the pool and grounds became so iconic that the hotel’s visual identity is essentially borrowed from his archive. Fitzgerald stayed long enough to turn the place into Tender Is the Night. Roger Moore played the five red clay courts beneath the Aleppo pines daily when he was in town; Connery preferred to drop in unannounced. The courts are beautiful, perched at the tip of Cap d’Antibes with nothing between you and the sea, but they have never really been just about tennis. Each May during Cannes, the amfAR gala lays tablecloths directly on the clay and seats 1,000 for dinner, an event that has been happening for over two decades.

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc

Necker Island, British Virgin Islands

  • Necker Island, British Virgin Islands

Richard Branson’s 74-acre private island has ring-tailed lemurs, giant Aldabra tortoises, a flamingo population and two floodlit courts at beach level where the Caribbean serves as the only fence. The full buyout is about $102,500 per day for up to 48 guests, with a staff of 100 who comfortably outnumber you. The annual Necker Cup pro-am has drawn Andy Roddick and James Blake, and costs $50,000 to enter, though individual rooms open during Celebration Weeks at about $5,150 a night for a more modest commitment. The tortoises predate the sport by several centuries and remain thoroughly unimpressed by everyone’s backhand, which is humbling in a way that money cannot buy, but apparently can rent.

Necker Island. Necker Island

Enchantment Resort, Sedona, Arizona

  • 525 Boynton Canyon Rd, Sedona, AZ 86336

Boynton Canyon’s 400-foot sandstone walls have been here for 300 million years, and playing tennis at their base does something to your sense of proportion that no amount of private coaching will replicate. The panorama cycles through vermillion, violet and near-black as the sun drops, turning evening sessions under the LEDs into something closer to ceremony than cardio. Six hard courts and six pickleball courts, access included with the room. Enchantment also runs Mii Amo, a top destination spa in the U.S., which is useful when the canyon has outplayed you by the second set and your ego needs a steam room more than a tiebreak.

Enchantment Resort. Enchantment Resort

The Breakers, Palm Beach, Florida

  • 1 South County Road, Palm Beach, FL 33480

In 2024, The Breakers completed a $12 million renovation anchored by the world’s first hydroponic grass courts—CapillaryFlow turf grown without soil, irrigated from below, saving 85 percent more water than traditional grass and producing a surface that plays like Wimbledon relocated to the subtropics. The full complex spans 104,000 square feet, with 16 courts across four surfaces, two padel courts and an elevated viewing lounge called The Veranda, where watching other people sweat counts as a legitimate leisure activity. Tihany Design built the whole thing in white, dark green and jasmine pergolas that feel like Old Florida, given a very generous budget.

The Breakers. The Breakers

Montauk Yacht Club, Montauk, New York

  • 32 Star Island Road, Montauk, NY 11954

The Montauk Yacht Club goes back to 1928, with founding members including Vincent Astor, J.P. Morgan, Edsel Ford and Harold Vanderbilt. Charles Lindbergh once parked his seaplane at the dock. The location remains the same, but the recreational offerings have since evolved. “The Courts” opened April 2 on the northeast end of the 16-acre peninsula in Lake Montauk, comprising two padel courts, two pickleball and one tennis. An alfresco lounge serving spritzes and light bites between matches. Coastal Italian comes from Alba Spiaggia, a Prince Street Hospitality collaboration that brings downtown Manhattan dining to the far end of Long Island. The setting closes the deal: water on three sides, a 228-slip marina full of sailboats and a 1928 replica lighthouse on the skyline.

Montauk Yacht Club. Privé Padel

Cheval Blanc Randheli, Noonu Atoll, Maldives

  • Noonu Atoll, Maldives

Maakurandhoo, one of five islands in this 46-villa Cheval Blanc property, is used exclusively to house two Grand Slam-standard courts cleared in the interior and a beach you will have to yourself between sets. Jim Courier, the former world No. 1 who won four majors in the early nineties before becoming one of the sport’s best-known broadcasters, designed the coaching methodology while staffing the program with former ATP professionals. The resort counts Roger Federer and his wife Mirka as repeat guests, which, if you know anything about how the most traveled man in tennis chooses where to rest, is the only endorsement the courts need.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Cheval Blanc Randheli. Cheval Blanc Randheli
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The 10 Best Men’s Suits for a Relaxed, Well-Dressed Spring https://observer.com/list/best-spring-suiting-for-men/ Wed, 22 Apr 2026 14:57:16 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1642511 Armani ripped the lining out of a suit jacket on camera for Scorsese in 1990, and it took the rest of menswear roughly 35 years to stop pretending he was wrong. Spring 2026 collections made the capitulation official: every significant runway last June, from Zegna in Dubai to Cucinelli in Milan to Hermès in Paris, showed soft shoulders, dropped armholes, pleated trousers at the natural waist, and fabrics so light they weigh less than a dress shirt. The word circulating at Pitti Uomo was “deformalization,” which sounds like an HR seminar but describes something men actually need: a suit that makes as much sense at a boardroom table at 10 a.m. as on a limestone terrace at 9 p.m., without changing. The slim suit, meanwhile, has been retired to the same wing of the menswear museum as square-toed shoes, assisted by the biological reality that a generation of men who wore skinny trousers in their 20s now have quads.

If you’re buying a suit this spring, fabric matters more than the label. Linen-cotton and linen-silk blends are the warm-weather baseline. High-twist tropical wools resist wrinkles better than linen alone. Hopsack weaves add texture without losing shape. Mohair blends travel well and come alive under evening light. Construction splits two ways: half-canvas, where the jacket molds to your chest over a few seasons, or fully unstructured, where it feels like a good shirt from day one. Both are correct. Neither requires a tie.

Here, we’ve curated a selection of the 10 suits that are worth buying right now. Every one of them is built for warm weather, designed to look better slightly rumpled than pressed and engineered around the basic proposition that comfort and looking sharp stopped being competing interests about three runway seasons ago.

Buck Mason Capitola Linen Carry-On Suit

Your buddy who always looks annoyingly put-together at beach weekends owns this suit, or something very close to it. The linen-cotton herringbone is unlined, unpadded and machine washable. Toss it in a carry-on, pull it out wrinkled, throw it on over a white tee and loafers, and watch people at dinner assume you’ve been dressing this way for years. 

JAcket $268, Trousers $198, Shop Now

Buck Mason. Buck Mason

Todd Snyder Italian Linen Cupro Floral Tuxedo

Somebody at the summer wedding is going to wear a floral suit—this is as certain as the open bar running out of decent bourbon by 10 p.m. The only variable is whether that person looks like he just headlined a Carnival cruise, or like this: Italian linen-cupro with a tonal pattern you only notice at conversation distance, shawl lapel, double-pleated trousers, double vents.

$1,496, SHOP NOW

Todd Snyder. Todd Snyder

J.Crew Relaxed-Fit Suit in Italian Cotton-Linen Twill

After 18 years of insisting that Ludlow’s slim cut was the only civilized option, J.Crew discovered relaxed tailoring and hoped nobody would mention the whiplash. The Kenmare-inspired proportions in 60/40 cotton-linen from Olimpias will make you resent every skinny suit you’ve ever buttoned with a lower armhole, fuller chest and patch pockets. Try on the khaki. It has a washed warmth that looks like it already survived a few summers without you.

Jacket $448, Trousers $268, Shop now

J.Crew. J.Crew

Boglioli Double-Breasted Linen, Wool and Mohair Suit

Wearing a green double-breasted blazer to an event like the Kentucky Derby or an art fair requires either impeccable judgment or total delusion, and Boglioli’s K-Jacket has been landing men on the right side of that question since 1987. That’s when the Boglioli brothers debuted garment-dyeing on finished tailored jackets at Pitti Uomo, building the whole unstructured piece first, then dyeing it whole, a technique so technically unhinged that almost nobody else has cracked it at scale. 

Jacket $1,990, Trousers $940, shop now

Boglioli. Boglioli

Saman Amel Unstructured Linen Suit

This Stockholm atelier produces through two family-run workshops in Naples and Tuscany on a single-unit, zero-overproduction model, and has been growing 40 percent year-on-year without running a single ad. GQ called them the ball-knower’s tailoring brand. The all-linen jacket has wide notch lapels, functioning cuffs and a satin lining that keeps the interior clean despite the deconstructed build. 

Jacket $2,645, Trousers $930, Shop now

Saman Amel. Saman Amel

Brunello Cucinelli Hopsack Deconstructed Cavallo Suit

This Cucinelli suit calls to mind a corner table, canvas espadrilles, linen tee, no socks, the maître d’ using your first name. The hopsack is virgin wool, silk and linen with an irregular shimmer that happens when three fibers compete. Cucinelli’s Solomeo Shoulder creates structure through cutting, not padding, because nobody in Umbria believes your jacket should do what your posture won’t. The leisure-fit pleated trousers are soft through the seat.

Jacket $4,900, Trousers $1,500, shop now

Brunello Cucinelli. Brunello Cucinelli

Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Soft Slub Linen Suit

Ralph Lauren has been selling a Kennedys-at-the-compound fantasy for 50 years, and this is as close as the dream has come to wearable reality. 3×2 double-breasted, 4.25-inch peak lapels, mother-of-pearl buttons and half-lined in cupro (also known as vegan silk). The Spring 2026 Paris show styled it with shell necklaces and open collars, which confirms Ralph’s team has been spending August in the right towns. It looks like something shot at Hyannis Port in 1963 and works the same way JFK’s wardrobe always did.

Jacket $798, Trousers $398, Shop Now

Polo Ralph Lauren. Polo Ralph Lauren

Sunspel Cotton Linen Two-Piece Suit

Sunspel invented the T-shirt in 1860 and put one on Daniel Craig in Casino Royale in 2006, and their approach to suiting carries that same energy: do less, but do it so well that people speculate about your secret to effortlessness. Thanks to the French cotton-linen, it gives you that broken-in hand from the first wear. No adjustment period needed.

$885, Shop Now

Sunspel. Sunspel

Drake’s Navy Herringbone Twill Cotton Games Blazer Mk. I

If you’ve spent any time on the menswear corners of the internet, you’ve already been told to buy this blazer by at least three strangers and one suspiciously well-dressed coworker. Take their advice. The silhouette, constructed from 8.8-ounce Japanese herringbone twill based on a 1940s U.S. military cloth, borrows from workwear as much as Savile Row with twin needle seams, a ventless back and a natural shoulder with zero padding.

$1,295, shop now

Drake’s. Drake's

Suitsupply Mid Green Milano Suit

Your friend who works in finance and always looks appropriate has been recommending Suitsupply for years. It’s time to listen to him. The linen-wool-mohair blend comes from Vitale Barberis Canonico, a Biella mill that has been weaving since 1663 and runs vertically from its own sheep station in New South Wales to finished cloth. Linen breathes, wool holds a line and the mohair picks up a sheen after sundown. Plus, their 150 stores have in-house tailors who can alter it while you grab a coffee. 

$959, shop now

Suitsupply. Suitsupply
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Across Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, a Hotel That Changed My Sense of Luxury https://observer.com/2026/04/morocco-atlas-mountains-dar-ahlam-luxury-without-schedules/ Fri, 17 Apr 2026 13:19:50 +0000 https://observer.com/?p=1638878

My first trip to Morocco was long overdue. I had initially meant to go after Covid, but the trip kept slipping, and when a visit finally came together in late 2023, the devastating Al Haouz earthquake that September—magnitude 6.8, nearly 3,000 killed in the Atlas Mountains and surrounding provinces—made the timing impossible. Two and a half years later, the invitation came again, and I was not going to let it pass for a third time. La Mamounia, Marrakech’s most iconic hotel and arguably the country’s most famous, was the only place to start a trip this long in the making. I spent two nights there before heading south, and within an hour of check-in at La Mamounia, where rooms start around $900 a night, I understood why the place has maintained such a hold on jet-setters since 1923. 

A century-old palace in the Hivernage district with eight acres of gardens so fragrant they bottle the scent and sell it in the lobby, La Mamounia needs no introduction. This is where Churchill painted watercolors from the balconies, and more than 80 years later, where Anna Delvey allegedly ran up $62,000 on her friend’s credit card—and where Netflix returned to film the wreckage. 

But I had not come to Morocco to confirm what a palace hotel already knows about itself. I had come to find out whether the country’s glamour ran deeper than the marble, and whether something on the other side of the Atlas Mountains could make the case that luxury had been asking the wrong questions all along.

Part of why I traveled to Morocco was to see both sides of the geographic divide. The Marrakech side, where the medina swallows you whole—you lose your bearings every three minutes, light comes down in slats through latticed wood, and the souks compress centuries of commerce into alleyways barely wide enough for two. And then the other Morocco, reached only by crossing the High Atlas at 7,400 feet, where the valleys open so wide the horizon bends, and the kasbahs rise out of the earth as if they grew there.

The Tizi n’Tichka pass is four hours of switchbacks—a motorized Oregon Trail where the gold at the end is a mud fortress and mint tea. You descend through Ouarzazate, a filming destination known as Africa’s Hollywood, past the studios where Ridley Scott built his Colosseum for Gladiator. The day I crossed, hurricane-force winds shut traffic near the summit. Cars rocked. A window shattered somewhere behind us. My driver, who had clearly done this before, stepped out and stood calmly by the roadside in case the car decided to become a toboggan. I stayed in the back seat watching dust swallow the road, Googling whether my travel insurance covered acts of God in a country I had been in for 36 hours. Everyone had told me February was almond blossom season, and winter storms be damned, I was not driving back to Marrakech to find out from a hotel lobby.

We persevered, and by the time we dropped into the Skoura palm grove, the amateur botanists were proven right. The almonds had detonated into white and pale pink against paprika earth, and the old kasbahs began appearing along the road, crenelated towers with Amazigh patterns carved into rammed-earth facades that predate anyone’s idea to put this place on a map.

In Morocco, the beauty is always behind a wall. The riads, the medina courtyards, the gardens. From the street, you see nothing. You decide to walk through the door, or you don’t. Dar Ahlam was no different. First a wall, then a heavy gate. Then the four towers rose above me, mirrored in an emerald pool so still it looked painted. There was no reception desk. Instead, Marcio, the general manager, led me to a salon with tadelakt walls and floor cushions and explained that this is where all decisions happen, over tea, whenever I was ready. What followed were four days with no schedule, no menu, no itinerary and no reason to check the time. Staff would check in each morning to ask what I felt like doing, and whatever I mentioned—a hike, a visit to the beekeeper, an afternoon in the Food Lab—would simply materialize.

When I reached my room, I found a letter from Thierry Teyssier, the French theater director who founded Dar Ahlam in 2002, on my bed. “Be curious. Set out in search of reeds. We’ve scattered them all over the kasbah to reveal some of our most beautiful secrets.” I found scrolls tucked into wall crevices for the rest of the week, each with its own little provocations or little dares.

Teyssier emerged from the Parisian theater scene and discovered that people would pay him to make moments feel inevitable. He found this kasbah, took it apart to the clay and rebuilt it by hand using adobe, bamboo and olive tree wood. He then staffed it with 120 people to serve just 14 rooms. “I believe in hospitality, not hôtellerie,” he told me. “I strive to create a tension that invites people to feel something.”

I met him on his birthday, seated on Berber rugs on a desert hilltop as the light went from amber to copper to a color I cannot name. When I asked how he trains his staff, he corrected me immediately. “How do they train me? About what they have in their hands and they’re ready to share.” One gardener on the team turned out to keep 300 birds at his home, a fact Teyssier did not know until the man volunteered to host visiting children. Hanan, the property’s designated storyteller, gathers guests in pockets around the property and unspools the kasbah’s 200-year history like a Scheherazade who has traded a sultan for a more attentive audience. During Ramadan, guests are invited to break fast at a staff member’s house, seated on the floor with the family, with no one touching a thing until the call to prayer ends and the meal begins.

Teyssier’s ambitions stretch far beyond the palm grove. Memory Road, a separate five-stop itinerary he designed through southern Morocco, caps bookings at 50 couples a year and refuses return visits. His wandering hotel concept, 700,000 Heures Impact, drops temporary micro-lodges in remote destinations from the Peruvian Amazon to Oaxaca, with Rwanda up next, where 200 performers will blur the line between hospitality and theater for audiences of one to four. These are not extensions of Dar Ahlam—instead, they are the philosophy applied to new coordinates.

One afternoon, I hiked the Mellah, Skoura’s old Jewish quarter, where silver jewelers once shared kasbah walls with their Berber neighbors. Lunch materialized in a courtyard under an almond tree: bowls of grain salad, flatbread on a rough wood plank. I made cyanotype prints at the Food Lab, Dar Ahlam’s half-acre agricultural plot, where local oasis farmers are relearning drought-resistant growing methods alongside the hotel’s team. You press wild ferns onto sun-sensitive paper and hang them to dry between olive trees—analog art in a world that has become uber-templatized.

Later that week, I suited up in beekeeper whites alongside the region’s only female beekeeper, who teaches children to read a colony’s mood with the patience of a Montessori instructor. She explained something that stayed with me: bees cannot survive alone. A honeybee separated from its hive dies within hours, not from predation but from purposelessness. The ancient Greeks had a word for this—ataraxia in reverse, the loss of tranquility that comes not from disturbance but from the absence of belonging.

Everything at Dar Ahlam runs on this idea. The staff are distributed one per family across the village so that the economics nourish as many households as possible. The Food Lab trains regional farmers in methods their grandparents knew. The logic of the hive—that nothing thrives in isolation, that the colony’s purpose is the individual’s survival—buzzes through every layer of the property, from the hyperlocal kitchen to the staff who appear and vanish without scripts. In September 2025, it found its most literal expression in art. Olivier Darné, a French sculptor and urban beekeeper who founded the Parti Poétique collective to weaponize pollination as political art, opened La Maison du Ciel inside a village kasbah that had been destroyed in the 2023 earthquake and rebuilt from the ground up. 

Guided by Hasnah, one of Dar Ahlam’s team members, in her dulcet tones, the installation unspools across six rooms structured as a sensory ritual: fire, soot, wax, honey, harvest and sky. You taste single-origin honeys from the oasis. You sit in a chamber walled entirely in beeswax petals. You blend your own herbal elixir from dried herbs hanging in woven baskets. Each room builds on the last, and by the time you walk back into the palm grove, the afternoon light looks different from what it did an hour before. A colony produces wax, honey, pollen, propolis and royal jelly—all separate metabolisms of the same devotion and all useless without the hive.

At night, the kasbah became a different building entirely. You wrapped yourself in a djellaba—the hooded Moroccan cloak that makes everyone look like they are about to betray someone in a castle turret on The Traitors—and followed candles placed at floor level along the tadelakt passageways, through corridors you could swear were not there at lunch, chasing the smell of cedar and the faint bass line of Berber music spliced with something that belonged in a Saint-Tropez lounge. Each evening, dinner materialized in an undisclosed location. One night, it was the rooftop, lanterns throwing copper circles across the terracotta, the palm grove dissolved into black below and the Atlas had a serrated edge against a sky with more stars than I had seen since childhood. Another, I was collected after a Negroni and led through passages I could not retrace to a table for one in a room that smelled of candle wax and old stone.

Dar Ahlam’s kitchen draws from a library of 450 recipes developed over two decades by Frédérick Grasser-Hermé and patissier Pierre Hermé, sourced almost entirely from the property’s own garden, the surrounding palm grove and the local souk. The cooking is largely vegetarian and genuinely revelatory: Grain salads with herbs picked that morning, expertly tempura-fried vegetables so light they barely acknowledged the oil, and couscous rolled by hand and steamed the traditional way.

The Terre de Skoura, a house spice blend of cumin and crumbles of toasted bread, appeared at every meal without my asking—proprietary, unnamed on any menu, mixed on site by hands that do not advertise. The lamb came from a breeder in the next village, more local than anything your local Whole Foods could claim with a straight face. Guests occasionally request more fish, but the kitchen is honest about geography: there is no fresh fish worth serving this deep in the Atlas. You are fed here what you did not think you needed, from a land that provides exactly what it can and nothing it cannot. At checkout, you are handed a map stamped with icons of every experience—bees, hiking, storytelling, the Food Lab—another analog keepsake and another dare to come back and fill in what you missed. 

I drove back to Marrakech over the Atlas in the wind, four hours of switchbacks and the strange vertigo of reentering a world that runs on reservations. I checked into the Mandarin Oriental for two nights—a private villa with a heated pool set within 50 acres of olive groves. At breakfast the next morning, I asked for the Terre de Skoura. The staff had not heard of it. Even in a world where anything can be delivered to your door by sundown, this spice blend is an outlier. It exists in one palm grove on the far side of a mountain range, and the only proof I have that it was real is the sense memory of what breakfast tasted like when nobody was trying to impress me.

“We lose our time not understanding where beauty is,” Teyssier had told me on that hilltop, the tea cooling, the desert going dark. What four days without a schedule had finally made legible to me is that luxury has been running a confidence game for decades, built on the premise that structure equals value—the 7 p.m. seating, the concierge itinerary laminated inside a leather folio. Dar Ahlam is the counter-thesis. The rarest commodity in 2026 is not a suite with a view or a chef with a star, but simply, unstructured time. Thoreau wrote that the mass of men lead lives of desperation, and Teyssier’s corollary is gentler but no less damning: the mass of travelers lead trips of scheduling. The beauty was behind the wall the whole time. You just had to walk through the door.

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Destinations Are Pushing Back on Tourists in 2026, and It’s Going to Cost You https://observer.com/list/global-destinations-limit-travel-tourists-fees-caps/ Thu, 16 Apr 2026 11:30:00 +0000 https://observer.com/?post_type=listicle&p=1638125 There was a period—call it the 2010s—when every city on earth wanted to be on your bucket list. Tourism boards ran campaigns in six languages, airports added lounges, and Instagram made fishing villages as crowded as Soho sample sales. Entire municipal economies restructured around the assumption that more visitors meant more prosperity, and that prosperity trickled down, and that the locals would be fine with it. Turns out, they were not.

In 2026, the global travel industry is living through the hangover. International arrivals surpassed pre-pandemic levels for the second consecutive year, and the infrastructure that was supposed to absorb all those bodies, from transit systems to housing markets to coastlines, is buckling visibly enough that governments have stopped pretending the math works. The EU is months away from making it illegal for hotels to call themselves “eco-friendly” without third-party proof. Anti-tourism protests shut down streets in Mallorca and the Canary Islands last summer and are likely to recur this year. At least a dozen major destinations have introduced new entry fees, doubled existing taxes, hard-capped visitor numbers or created emission mandates since January. The revenue these tools generate—hundreds of millions of dollars annually, in some cases—is being directed at housing, schools and coral reefs rather than more tourism marketing.

The tools vary. Some places tax. Some cap. Some ban outright. One is running ad campaigns asking tourists to go somewhere else. Another shut the doors to an archaeological site mid-afternoon simply because too many folks showed up. What connects them is a shared realization that the old model—attract everyone, build hotels, hope for the best—was burning through the things that made these places worth visiting in the first place. Here are 10 of the most consequential interventions reshaping travel this year—because one way or another, all of them will affect your next trip.

Venice, Italy

  • The world’s most scrutinized overtourism experiment enters year three. The results are in: crowding barely budged.

Venice now charges day-trippers $5.75 to enter the historic center, or $11.50 if you didn’t book at least four days ahead, which, based on the data, describes about half of all visitors. The Contributo di Accesso covers 60 days this year, between April and late July. You register online, get a QR code and show it at one of seven checkpoints or to a roaming inspector. Hours are 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., meaning an early dinner arrival costs you nothing, and overnight hotel guests are exempt entirely. Children under 14 walk free. Tour groups are capped at 25 and megaphones are banned, which alone may be the greatest quality-of-life improvement in Venetian history since indoor plumbing.

What it means for your trip: plan ahead, and you save roughly six bucks. Show up mid-afternoon, and the fee window is closing. Stay overnight, and you skip the whole thing. The revenue—$6.2 million in 2025—goes partly toward offsetting residents’ trash taxes, which is a nice line on paper. Whether the fee actually thins crowds is another story: the busiest fee day last year drew nearly 25,000 paying visitors to a city with 50,000 permanent residents, and Venice recorded 3.9 million overnight stays in 2024—an all-time high. Deputy Mayor Simone Venturini’s summary doubles as municipal doctrine: “We are not a theme park.” The numbers suggest it still kind of is. But a slightly better-managed one.

Venice, Italy. Hubert Buratynski/Unsplash

Kyoto, Japan

  • Foreign tourists now outnumber Japanese ones at Kyoto hotels for the first time ever. The city’s response: make luxury stays 10 times more expensive to tax.

Kyoto’s accommodation tax jumped tenfold at the top end on March 1—from about $6 to $62.50 per person per night for rooms above $625, a bracket that covers every marquee ryokan and the Aman. A couple doing a week at that tier now pays roughly $875 in lodging tax before they’ve booked a single temple visit. If you’re staying at a hostel under $37.50 a night, nothing changes. The system is progressive by design: Kyoto wants luxury travelers to fund the infrastructure their presence demands, and it is not being subtle about it.

The context makes the breakdown feel less punitive than it sounds. Foreign tourists outnumbered Japanese ones at Kyoto hotels for the first time in 2024—8.21 million to 8.09 million—and domestic travelers dropped 13.8 percent. They’re day-tripping from Osaka now, treating the old imperial capital like a museum you leave before dinner. If you’re booking a mid-range hotel in the ¥20,000 to ¥50,000 range (around $125 to $312), the new tax adds about $6.25 per night—noticeable but not trip-altering. Revenue from the overhaul is projected at $79 million annually, earmarked for transit capacity, crowd management and cultural preservation. Tokyo still charges about a dollar a night—and Kyoto has decided it can no longer afford to.

Kyoto, Japan. PJH, Unsplash

Barcelona, Spain

  • The city that retired “Visit Barcelona” is now spending tourist tax revenue on solar panels for public schools. Say what you will about the messaging—the math is working.

Barcelona doubled its tourist tax on April 1. A five-star hotel now carries about $13.80 per person per night in levies, climbing to $17.25 by 2029. A week at a nice place with your partner and you’re looking at $240 in tax before you’ve had a single vermut. That money—$122.5 million last year alone—is funding solar panels and air conditioning across all 170 public schools. Your Gòtic district hotel bill is literally keeping a fourth grader cool in August.

The rental situation is more dramatic. All 10,101 tourist apartment licenses expire in late 2028 and will not be renewed. Operating without a license costs up to $690,000. Airbnb already got hit with a $75 million fine for advertising unlicensed tourist rental homes. The city retired its “Visit Barcelona” slogan in 2024, and protest groups have promised tourists a hostile summer. The posture reads aggressive until you realize Barcelona pulled in 16 times more tax revenue last year than it did in 2014—they can afford to be picky.

Barcelona, Spain. Quincy Rose

Rome, Italy

  • The Trevi Fountain now costs $2.30. The city expects $7.5 million a year from it. Early reviews are oddly glowing.

The Trevi Fountain started charging $2.30 on Feb. 2, and the strange thing is that almost everyone prefers it this way. The basin—the sunken area where the coins and the selfies happen—now caps at 400 people at a time, down from a daily crush that routinely hit 70,000. You tap a card or Apple Pay to get in (quite modern for an 18th-century attraction), or book ahead online if you’re the planning type. No timed entry, no rush once you’re inside. Rome residents, kids under six, and licensed guides skip the fee entirely. After 10 p.m., the whole thing opens up for free, which is when the fountain actually looks like it does in the movies.

What this means for you practically: the scrum is nearly gone. The experience of standing in front of Nicola Salvi’s facade with enough room to actually see it is a new experience for this century. Rome expects about $7.5 million a year from the fee, has already extended the ticketing model to five previously free cultural sites and is watching other Italian cities take notes. Tourism Councillor Alessandro Onorato offered the kind of Roman calculus that makes you forgive the confidence: if the Trevi were in New York, he said, it would cost $100. He’s probably not wrong.

Rome, Italy. Lala Azizli

Amsterdam, Netherlands

  • The world’s most expensive city to book a hotel in just got 12 percentage points more expensive. Oh, and the canals went electric.

Amsterdam now taxes hotel rooms at a combined rate approaching 33.5 percent, which means a $230 night costs you $77 in levies before you’ve touched the complimentary stroopwafel. The Netherlands raised accommodation VAT from 9 to 21 percent on Jan. 1, stacking on top of the city’s existing 12.5 percent municipal tax. Bookings made last year for 2026 stays got hit retroactively. Surprise!

The canal system went fully emission-free—commercial tour boats first, then pleasure craft—and 83 percent of vessels had already converted before the deadline, because the Dutch do not procrastinate about infrastructure. Cruise ships are capped at 100 port calls per year, one per day, and the city-center terminal closes permanently by 2035. Short-term rentals drop to 15 nights annually in some central neighborhoods this April. Amsterdam has also been running a “Stay Away” ad campaign aimed at British stag parties, which may be the most targeted piece of municipal marketing in European history.

Amsterdam, Netherlands. Dmitrii E/Unsplash

Santorini and Mykonos, Greece

  • A $23 per-passenger cruise levy. An 8,000-visitor daily cap on Santorini. Greece’s most photographed islands are rewriting the terms, and cruise lines are mostly absorbing the hit.

Greece started charging cruise passengers up to $23 per person to step onto Santorini and Mykonos last July, and the fee carries into 2026 with a tiered structure that scales by season—$23 peak, $13.80 shoulder, $4.60 off-season, with no age exemptions. Every other Greek port charges significantly less. And yet the first partial season pulled in $35.7 million.

Santorini also capped daily cruise arrivals at 8,000, roughly half of what peak days used to look like, when 17,000 passengers would pour off gangways onto an island with 15,500 permanent residents. Port authorities now calculate ship loads at full occupancy rather than 80 percent, so the cap has actual teeth. Cruise lines absorbed the fees rather than rerouting, because nobody cancels a Santorini sunset over $23. Meanwhile, Chania broke its all-time cruise record by 40 percent. The Cyclades are thinning the herd. The rest of Greece is picking up the overflow.

Santorini, Greece. Dimitry B./ Unsplash

Norway’s World Heritage Fjords

  • The world’s first zero-emission maritime zone is now in force. One operator has been compliant since 2022. The rest have until 2032.

Norway’s five UNESCO fjords became the world’s first zero-emission maritime zone on Jan. 1—no direct carbon dioxide or methane emissions allowed from any vessel under 10,000 gross tonnage. Batteries, green hydrogen, green ammonia, all fine. Diesel, not anymore. The regulation covers sightseeing boats, ferries and smaller tourist craft navigating Geirangerfjorden, Nærøyfjorden and three others.

Large cruise ships, which almost universally exceed the 10,000 GT threshold, get until 2032. Havila Voyages has been sailing Geirangerfjord on battery power since 2022, using 86-ton battery packs and four hours of zero-emission range, which gives CEO Bent Martini standing to call the grace period “a scandal” and “a victory for those who didn’t dare to invest.” Hurtigruten has committed $115 million to fleet upgrades and promises a fully zero-emission ship by 2030. By that year, the rules will extend to every Norwegian fjord. The early movers will own that market.

Reine, Norway. Benoit Deschasaux

Pompeii, Italy

  • A 20,000-visitor daily cap, named tickets and a site director who once suspended admissions entirely when the crowd got too large. Pompeii does not bluff.

Pompeii capped daily visitors at 20,000 in late 2024—15,000 morning slots, 5,000 afternoon—and made every ticket nominative, meaning your name goes on it and your ID gets checked at the gate. Director Gabriel Zuchtriegel wanted scalpers gone, and he got his wish. The site drew over 4 million visitors last year, a 33.6 percent increase, with a single free-entry Sunday in October pulling 36,480 people through ruins that last saw that kind of population density in 79 A.D.

Morning peak-season tickets now sell out weeks in advance. Admission runs about $23 for the main circuit and $29 for the expanded route. Implementation has been imperfect—tour guides report 45-minute sun-baked queues and staff handwriting names on tickets at bottleneck speed. On one Sunday in May, the site hit capacity, and Zuchtriegel shut the doors entirely. A trade union wants the whole system scrapped, but he has not flinched

Pompeii, Italy. LightRocket via Getty Images

U.S. National Parks

  • A family of four international tourists at the Grand Canyon now pays $435. The policy is being challenged in court, criticized in Congress and felt at the gate.

Eleven national parks—including the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Yosemite and Zion—started charging non-U.S. residents a $100-per-person surcharge on Jan. 1. The standard $35 vehicle entry fee still applies, so a foreign family of four driving into the Grand Canyon now pays $435 to see a hole in the ground that Americans see for $35. The non-resident annual pass tripled to $250. Fee-free days were rebranded “resident-only patriotic fee-free days,” with MLK Day and Juneteenth swapped out for Flag Day and Constitution Day, in case you were wondering how granular the culture war could get.

Legal challenges landed within weeks, and early data from gateway towns suggest the damage is more psychological than fiscal. Yosemite’s foreign visits dropped 9 percent. As reported by Bloomberg, one visitor’s explanation to a tour operator became an industry talking point: the feeling of not being wanted was enough to cancel. Dual pricing exists at the Galápagos and the Taj Mahal, but the American version stings differently.

Yellowstone National Park. Dennis Zhang

Edinburgh, United Kingdom

  • The first U.K. city to tax tourists. Projected revenue: $66.5 million a year, earmarked for affordable housing and a theater restoration.

Edinburgh becomes the first city in the U.K. to charge tourists for overnight stays on July 24, and the structure is disarmingly simple: 5 percent of your room rate, capped at five nights. At a $266-per-night hotel, that adds about $66.50 to a weeklong stay—less than dinner for two on the Royal Mile, and considerably more useful. Everything from five-star hotels to houseboats is covered. Business travelers pay the same rate as tourists. No exceptions, no drama.

The revenue is where it gets interesting. Edinburgh earmarked $120 million over three years for street cleaning, a city-center policing unit, Leith Theatre’s restoration and 472 affordable homes, three-quarters of which will be social rent. Glasgow follows in January 2027. Aberdeen in April. Wales has yet to confirm its plans for the same year. While the levy is modest enough that most visitors won’t register it on a single receipt, it is however meaningful enough to put roofs over people’s heads.

Edinburgh, UK. Intrepid
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